Put yourself in your dog’s paws for a moment. Some 15,000 years ago, dogs and humans developed a relationship unparalleled in history. In exchange for food and shelter, dogs have helped humans in countless ways, becoming our partners, coworkers, and pals. Over the centuries, people have redesigned the dog, creating many distinct breeds with a wide range of physical characteristics and behaviors. Some breeds weigh more than one hundred pounds, while others can literally fit in a teacup. Ears can be floppy, pointy, or in-between. Coats come in textures from dangling dreadlocks to the nearly naked.
We have created canines for herding, hunting, guarding, and just lounging on laps. In the process, however, we’ve taken away what comes naturally to dogs and left them with an identity crisis. We’ve removed them from the social structure of the pack and eliminated their need to hunt for food. And yet we scold them when they seek outlets for their innate need to dig and chew, especially when our gardens or shoes are at stake. In spite all of our meddling, though, the true nature of dogs never wavers: They love us just the way we are.
Q Certain dog breeds seem to be smarter than others, so I purposely chose a Border collie in part because of the breed’s reputation for brains. I didn’t want to fuss with a less-intelligent breed when it came to teaching basic obedience. I don’t have the patience to keep trying and trying to teach a dog to sit or to stay. So far, I’ve been really happy with Einstein’s response to training, but I’m curious: How can I figure out just how smart he is?
A In the canine classroom, your aptly named Einstein rates as the tail-wagging valedictorian. Other top students include poodles, German shepherds, and golden retrievers. Breeds who might need some after-school tutoring include Afghan hounds, basenjis, and bulldogs. Before owners of these dogs bark at me in protest, please keep in mind that exceptions — both bright and not so bright — exist in every breed.
Sizing up a dog’s brainpower can be tricky, because they don’t think the way that we do. Dogs are not begging to enroll in the canine version of Mensa or stealing the newspaper to do the crossword puzzle. Because certain breeds were created to excel at certain tasks, your Border collie can run circles around a Japanese chin when it comes to herding sheep because he possesses the genes to shepherd a flock. But I’d put my money on a beagle sniffing out a rabbit faster than a Border collie, since the almighty nose is a bragging right among hound breeds.
But almost any dog can learn a wide variety of obedience cues if taught with patience. Some can acquire an astonishing array of behaviors. Service dogs are an amazing example of the canine brain in action. These highly trained dogs are encouraged to exercise “intelligent disobedience” when confronting a situation that could harm their human charges. A guide dog, for example, knows not to budge forward when facing a hole or other hazard, despite his blind owner’s insistence.
Developing a foolproof method of testing canine intelligence remains an ongoing challenge for dog trainers, breeders, and animal behaviorists. One pioneer in this field is Stanley Coren, a renowned Canadian psychologist and exceptional dog trainer. In The Intelligence of Dogs, Dr. Coren ranks 133 breeds from smart as a whip to dumb as a brick, pointing out there are variations and exceptions in every breed. He devised a canine IQ test that strives to identify several levels of intelligence: adaptive, obedient, and instinctive.
Breeds ranking in the top 10 smartest can grasp new commands in fewer than five repetitions and obey a known cue the first time it is given 95 percent of the time. The Border collie heads this elite class and is joined by poodles, German shepherds, golden retrievers, Doberman pinschers, Shetland sheepdogs, Labrador retrievers, papillons, Rottweilers, and Australian cattle dogs.
Breeds in the bottom 10 often require up to 100 repetitions to understand a new command and will obey a known cue the first time it is given only 25 percent of the time. Even if they know how to sit, they may need to hear the word four or five times before they plop their rear ends down. This list, which is definitely subject to debate, includes the Shih Tzu, basset hound, mastiff, beagle, Pekingese, bloodhound, borzoi, chow chow, bulldog, basenji, and Afghan hound.
Here are a few fun ways to figure out how smart your own dog is.
THE TOWEL TEST: When your dog is lying down, drape a large bath towel over his head and time how long it takes for him to lose the towel. Smart dogs master this in less than 15 seconds while slow learners can take more than 30 seconds.
THE BUCKET TEST: Line up three buckets (size is not important, but use ones made of lightweight material like plastic). Show your dog his favorite treat or toy and let him watch you place it under one of these upside-down buckets. Divert his attention away from the buckets for a few seconds and then ask him to find the hidden prize. A smart dog makes a beeline to the correct bucket while slower learners may knock over the other two buckets before finally finding the prize under the bucket.
THE LEASH TEST: Pick a time that you do not customarily walk your dog — say mid-morning or mid-afternoon. Without saying anything, pick up the leash and your house keys in full view of your dog. A smart dog associates the leash and keys with a walk and becomes excited at the prospect of going out. A not-quite-so-bright dog won’t make the connection and may need to hear “Want to go for a walk?” before jumping for joy. (Of course, some more phlegmatic dogs may just not be in the mood for a walk!)
Remember that canine IQ tests have limitations, one of which is that the results are subjective and evaluated by people, not other dogs. So a dog who may seem dumb to us could be the leader of the pack in the eyes of other dogs. Whatever the test results, the important thing is to value the love your dog gives you more than the number of brain cells he maximizes.
Q My Siberian husky can be snoozing upstairs in the back bedroom, but within seconds of a bag of potato chips being opened on the first floor, she suddenly appears, tail wagging and ready to share. When we go out on walks, I am amazed at how she sniffs out a cat hiding under a bush or tracks down the smallest bit of something edible on the ground. She can spot a squirrel scampering up a tree faster than I can but will sometimes stop and stare intently at a stick or a rock as though she expects it to move. When it comes to our senses, how do we compare to dogs?
A We all know better than to challenge our dogs to a hearing contest. Canine ears, whether erect like a German shepherd dog, dropped like a Labrador retriever, or folded like a bloodhound, capture more sounds at greater distances and wider frequencies than human ears. Even breeds like cocker spaniels with thick, floppy ears can distinguish the sound of their owner’s car from all other traffic a block or more away, though your husky’s pricked ears probably give her an advantage in hearing the crinkle of a chip bag from several rooms away.
Despite their many different shapes and sizes, canine ears have the same basic function: to zero in on sounds (especially that magic word treat, or, in your case, the rustle of a potato chip bag) and to help the dog maintain equilibrium while moving. Ears also play an important role in canine communication and can express happiness, playfulness, curiosity, submissiveness, and dominance, for example.
Hearing prowess, however, takes second place to a dog’s acute ability to smell. The phrase “led by the nose” takes on a whole new meaning in the canine world. Olfactory receptor cells inside the canine nose are bolstered by tiny hairs called cilia that are coated with mucous to help trap scents. People have about 5 million olfactory receptor cells compared with more than 100 million in dogs. These receptors are capable of breaking down the individual ingredients in each scent. So not only can your dog tell if you’re baking a chicken or a turkey, he can also distinguish the particular spices you put in the stuffing.
Bottom line: your dog can smell a whole lot better than you can (although he probably smells worse before bath time)! The bigger the dog and the longer the muzzle, the better his ability to smell. A bloodhound, for example, has about 300 million of these cells compared to a dachshund with 125 million.
In the battle of the senses, we compete with dogs most closely in the field of vision. We rely on our eyes more than our dogs do. Canine eyes are much more sensitive to movement and to light than ours, but they can’t focus on objects as well as we can.
Dogs also tend to be nearsighted, which explains why your dog can spot a bird flying by at dusk but may fixate on a motionless object that you can clearly see is not a squirrel, or have trouble spotting a bright yellow tennis ball from a foot away. Their large pupils and wide field of vision enables them to zoom in on moving objects or potential prey. Dogs do have better peripheral vision, however. Standing still, dogs can see up to 250 degrees without turning their heads, while humans can see, at best, up to 180 degrees.
In summary, your dog wins by a nose and is all ears, at least compared with you.
Q My three-year-old Australian shepherd must be psychic or a mind reader. Each day before I arrive home, he waits for me in front of the living room window. My kids get home from school before I do and they watch in amusement as Rocco stops playing and heads for his designated spot. Rocco likes everyone in the family, but he is definitely my dog. I don’t arrive home at the same time every day, but he is always there waiting. Does he really know when I’m on my way?
A You are blessed with an ESP — Extra Sensory Pooch. The quick answer is that some dogs do seem to possess extrasensory powers, but we have yet to unravel the mysteries behind such canine abilities as sensing an earthquake in advance, finding home from miles away, or alerting a person about to have an epileptic seizure. The topic has attracted scientists from all over the globe, including Dr. Rupert Sheldrake, former director of studies in biochemistry and cell biology at Cambridge University in England and author of Dogs That Know When Their Owners Are Coming Home and Other Unexplained Powers of Animals.
Dr. Sheldrake suggests that the ability of some dogs to accurately anticipate the arrival of their owners depends on a kind of telepathic bond. He calls this his theory of morphic resonance. He has tested his theory with many different dogs and their owners. The story of JT may help explain why Rocco seems to be able to read your mind. JT, a mixed-breed dog, could accurately predict when his owner would return to her home in Manchester, England, and would be waiting for her at the front door. Sheldrake’s television crew set up two cameras, one on the owner when she prepared to head home from work and one inside her home. The return trips were entirely at random, made at different times with different modes of transportation, but JT managed to be in position to await his owner’s arrival 85 percent of the time.
After collecting data on hundreds of similar situations involving dogs of various breeds and mixes, Dr. Sheldrake could find no link between “owner awareness” and level of intelligence, nor did he find any correlation to breed, age, or level of training. After five years of extensive research involving thousands of people who own and work with animals, however, Sheldrake conclusively proves what many pet owners already know — there is a strong connection between humans and animals that lies beyond present-day scientific understanding.
Whatever the explanation, Rocco clearly views you as his trusted ally and friend. Who needs a clock to tell time when his love for you appears timeless?
SEPARATED FROM HER MOTHER at three weeks of age, the Rottweiler puppy spent five weeks in a barn with her litter-mates. When adopted by Cindy and Grace, the young pup feared people, strange objects, unfamiliar sounds, and sudden movements. Her new owners, who had two older dogs at home, wanted to help Ginny develop social skills and confidence. They knew that they had to take their time introducing Ginny to new sights and sounds. Rushing her into new experiences could backfire and cause her to develop full-blown phobias.
They started by spending hours quietly sitting with Ginny on their front porch. Each time a car, person, or dog passed by, they would hand her wonderful treats. Eventually, she stopped cowering in the corner and began to nibble the treats. Once she appeared calm and relaxed on the porch, they took Ginny for walks with their older dogs flanking her sides.
With objects that frightened the puppy, the women played a canine version of Hansel and Gretel. For example, Ginny was afraid of garbage cans, so they repeatedly placed a trail of small treats leading up to one. At first, Ginny would only cautiously take the farthest treats but she eventually grew brave enough to eat the ones near the can. In time she realized that garbage cans would not harm her.
Ginny did beautifully with the other dogs in my puppy class, but was extremely fearful of people. To socialize the pups and teach them to trust people, we play “pass the puppy,” a game where each puppy is handed around the circle of owners to be petted and talked to. This game would have been too traumatic for Ginny, so we treated her differently. Whenever she mustered enough confidence to approach people on her own, they tossed a treat on the floor without making eye contact or trying to touch her. Soon she began coming closer to people in the class.
For the next stage, the class sat in chairs and extended their open hands containing treats to Ginny without making eye contact or bending toward her. We added the cue “say hi” when she touched her nose to their palm. Ginny gradually learned that even standing people, who look more threatening, are friendly.
We worked with Ginny through four levels of training. While still cautious in new situations, she now deals with the world with more confidence. When their older dogs died, Cindy and Grace adopted another puppy, and it was great to see Ginny take over the role of canine teacher with her new friend. This lovely dog serves as a great example of how careful, patient training can help a young pup conquer her fears.
Contributed by Pia Silvani, CPDT
Q I adore my dog and would do anything to keep her safe and happy. I love to spoil her with new toys and take her with me in the car. She wags her tail at me, gives me sloppy kisses, and rushes to greet me when I come home. I know that I truly love her, but are dogs capable of loving us back in the same way that we love them?
A For thousands of years, “love” wasn’t a concept that people thought of in connection with dogs. The initial relationships between early humans and wild canines most likely developed around a mutual need for food and an ability to help each other hunt. Dogs were more like work partners than dearly cherished family members. But over the centuries, as the role of the dog evolved beyond a strictly business relationship, people began to become more emotionally attached to their canine companions.
Particularly within the past two decades, dogs have rapidly moved from being backyard protectors to bedroom-blanket stealers. We speak glowingly of how our dogs race to our front doors and greet us with smiling faces, swishing tails, and wiggling hips. We brag that our dogs comfort us when we feel blue and stay by our bedside when we are ill. Are these acts of loyalty and devotion, or simply servitude and respect? Do our dogs rush to greet us because they are truly delighted by our return or because they need to go outside or want food? Do they remain by our side when we’re sick because they truly care, or are they regarding us as members of their pack and acting out of a protective instinct?
In short, do dogs actually feel love and can they express this powerful emotion? While humans have conquered polio, landed astronauts on the moon, and created voice-activated computers, we have yet to come up with a scientific test to support or dispute the notion that dogs truly love us. I posed this question to a few experts in the field, however, and I bet their answers will agree with what most dog owners believe to be true.
Marty Becker, one of America’s best-known veterinarians and author of The Healing Power of Pets, says that dogs “truly love unconditionally. I think a dog’s love is greater than human love. Dogs don’t judge anyone. If you’re bald or overweight, it doesn’t matter to a dog. Their sense of loyalty is tremendous.”
According to Bernie Rollin, professor of philosophy at Colorado State University in Fort Collins, “If anybody loves us, certainly our dogs do. Despite the lack of a common language, dogs are capable of conveying love to us. These days, in the face of alienation and cynicism and with three out of five marriages ending in divorce, pets provide us a safe place to give and receive love in the face of this crazy society. Perhaps the better question to ask is, how many people leave their dogs versus how many dogs leave their people?”
And finally, from Alan Beck, professor at Purdue University and author of Between Pets and People: The Importance of Animal Companionship: “How do you measure dogs’ love when we don’t even understand the basis of human love beyond biology? If a dog is really dedicated to you because you are a source of food and comfort, does that really cheapen its love? I don’t think so. I think dogs feel dog love. Unfortunately, there are no objective tests. It will be a long time before we truly understand what’s going on between dogs and people.”
Until the language barrier between our two species lifts, a definitive answer remains unknown. But for now, I’m casting my vote with the viewpoint that we are doggone lucky to be loved by our canine companions.
Q Last year was a tough one for me. My mother died, I divorced, and I moved to a new state with a new job. There have been lots of tears and days of depression, but my loving papillon, Ginger, has been right by my side the whole time. When I talk to her about my problems, she sits very attentively and will even gently touch my arm with her paw. Each time, I find myself feeling a little bit better. Can dogs read our moods and help us deal with emotional heartache?
A Ginger, your furry therapist, definitely taps into your moods. Like other dogs, she has learned that you tend to be most affectionate when you are happy or sad. Since the days when Sigmund Freud, the father of psychoanalysis, emphasized the therapeutic value that dogs offer to people, mental health experts have recognized that dogs can play a vital role in comforting and encouraging those who are suffering.
Our dogs often seem to be able to shoo away the blues, turn sadness into gladness, and restore self-confidence. They do seem to care about our moods. They calm us down. They listen without interruption or judgment, just like a psychologist.
Dogs make great therapists because they provide unconditional empathy, positive regard, and genuineness. They are great listeners who don’t judge. They allow us to talk out a problem and to let off some steam, which reduces our distress and lowers our blood pressure. This unqualified acceptance allows dogs to touch all types of people, from those experiencing mental or physical illnesses to those who live alone or who need motivation to leave the house and get some exercise.
Ginger has plenty of canine company. Throughout history, dogs have served as confidants and emotional support systems for many people, including the famous and infamous. When Mary Queen of Scots was imprisoned in the Castle of Fotheringhay in England, she was denied human contact except for a priest and a servant woman, but she was permitted to keep her terrier, Geddon. As she approached the gallows to be beheaded, Mary hid her dog under her long skirt because she wanted him to be with her to the very end.
During World War II, General Dwight D. Eisenhower took Caicca, his Scottish terrier, with him during his North Africa tour. In letters to his wife Mamie, Eisenhower remarked that Caicca was the only companion he could really talk to and the only one who would not turn the conversation back to the topic of war.
For everyday problems, nothing beats a canine pal. I know that when I return home feeling drained or depressed, my mood quickly lifts when Chipper greets me with a full-body wiggle, clutching her favorite toy in her mouth and wagging her tail.
Q We recently rescued an extremely shy greyhound named Cyrus from a farm where he was kept in a barn for nearly the first year of his life. He and a bunch of other greyhounds were virtually isolated from the rest of the world and left to starve by an uncaring breeder. Cyrus acts anxious and submissive, and often cowers or slinks away when we try to pet him. He is afraid of everyday sights and sounds like vacuum cleaners and televisions. What can we do to boost his confidence and conquer his shyness?
A Cyrus has a lot to process after his many months inside a very small world. He is still transitioning from those bad puppy days and has yet to realize that your home is both loving and permanent. It is important that you exercise lots of gentleness and patience with him while he adjusts to his new life. When I adopted Chipper, she was just over a year old and had lived in three shelters and one husky rescue camp. Like Cyrus, she lacked exposure to items and activities most dogs take for granted. She paced nervously inside my house. On her leash, she would walk side to side, seeming to be on the lookout for a place to hide. If I spoke loudly, she would go belly-up and cower. It took about six months of consistent obedience training and consistent daily routines for Chipper’s true personality to begin to flourish. These days she is a happy, confident jokester, always ready for a car ride and eager to make new friends.
The same transformation can happen with Cyrus. Time is your ally as you and your family strive to earn Cyrus’s trust. It is common for submissive dogs to cower, avoid direct eye contact, and try to make themselves look smaller to avoid conflict. In extreme situations, they will tuck their tail between their legs and expose their bellies. In dog language, these actions convey that the dog poses no challenge to you — whom he regards as higher in the hierarchy.
Cyrus will gain confidence if he learns the household rules with plenty of TLC and support. Start by not forcing him into any scary situations. Try to move slowly around him and let him know that he can trust you to act consistently. Establish a routine for him and stick to it. Create a safe place for him in a corner or provide him with a crate where he can retreat with his back to a wall. If he musters the courage to come to you when you are sitting still, don’t leap to reach out and touch him. Let him make the first moves for now. Slowly extend your hand for him to sniff before accepting a gentle pet from you. Avoid patting the top of his head, as your hand over him might feel like a threat. Your tone of voice is vital. Always use soft, upbeat, or warm tones. Never yell or speak harshly because you will only instill more fear.
Mealtime offers a special opportunity to shoo away Cyrus’s shyness and bolster the bond between you. Hand-feed him his meals and treats. You may need to start one piece at a time. If he backpedals, remain still until he returns to you. If he acts too scared, toss the treats a little bit away from you and resume hand-feeding when he regains some confidence.
Regular exercise will not only help Cyrus relax but will further develop your relationship. At first, stick to short walks around your immediate neighborhood. These outings allow Cyrus to build up a database of familiar sights, sounds, and smells. If a car backfiring or other noise causes him to try to bolt, move him along quickly to distract him and give him the chance to settle down. Speak in a happy, confident tone while continuing your walk.
Inside your home or fenced backyard, engage Cyrus in some confidence-building activities like teaching him a trick and offering a food reward and plenty of praise. Don’t make a big deal about appliances like the vacuum or dishwasher that may frighten him. If you treat them matter-of-factly, he will learn that they pose no threat. With consistently kind and gentle treatment, most shy dogs warm up and trust their immediate family members within a matter of weeks, and you should begin to see Cyrus’s true personality emerge.
Once this occurs, I recommend you enroll Cyrus in a basic dog obedience class so he can have the chance to be around other dogs in a controlled setting. At this stage, you can work also on conquering Cyrus’s shyness around newcomers to the house and strangers he meets when he is out and about with you. Ask your friends who visit not to make direct eye contact with Cyrus and to sit quietly. As Cyrus’s curiosity takes hold, have your friends offer him treats so he will form a positive association with visitors. Take things slowly and let Cyrus show you when he is ready to move on to the next stage of becoming a confident, happy dog.
Q My husband and I are adopting a 10-week-old puppy. We want to make sure that our home is safe for him and from him! We have nice antiques and expensive rugs that we don’t want chewed up or knocked over. Plus, we worry that the puppy could swallow something that could hurt him. How can we best prepare our home for our new family member?
A You are wise to puppy proof your house now, before your new family member comes home. Puppies are energetic and curious. In their first few months of life, one of the main ways they investigate is by taste testing their surroundings. They demonstrate a real knack for getting into trouble and can quickly destroy household items and swallow things they shouldn’t before you know it.
Start preparing your home for your bundle of joy by getting down on his level — literally. Sit down on the floor of each room where your puppy will be permitted to roam and look around for potential hazards that might be within his reach. These include electrical and telephone cords, houseplants on or near the floor, window shade and curtain drawstrings, throw rugs, trashcans or storage containers, and anything else that is on or near the floor that is small enough to fit into a puppy’s mouth or light enough to be knocked over. Think about materials such as wicker and cardboard that might not seem tempting to you but may attract a teething pup. Loose belongings such as shoes, toys, books and magazines, and other items will be fair game at first, so form the habit of picking up clutter from the floors. (Having a puppy around can be good incentive for messy children to put away their belongings!)
If you plan to give your puppy access to your kitchen or a bathroom, make sure cabinet doors near the floor are securely fastened. As a further precaution, consider storing all cleaning products and other toxic items in a higher location for now. A hanging shower curtain won’t survive a puppy attack. Make sure it’s tucked inside the tub if your pup spends time in the bathroom alone.
Puppies can find trouble just about anywhere, so at first, limit your pup’s access to just two or three rooms of the house. The fewer rooms your puppy is allowed to visit, the less puppy proofing you’ll have to do. Once he grows out of the chewing stage, and is reliably housebroken, you can gradually give him the run of the house. He has earned it! By the way, many dogs happily learn to relax in a single room (kitchen, basement, family room, for example) when the family is away, even though they are used to roaming around the rest of the time. You’ll have a deeper and more satisfying relationship, however, with a dog who knows how to behave no matter where he is in the house, so don’t rely on restricting his access as a permanent solution.
After checking the inside of your home for potential problems, step outdoors and review your backyard with your puppy in mind. Again, get down on his level by crouching down and checking out the view. Look for objects that your puppy can chew on and swallow, such as garden tools, children’s toys, and other small objects. Pay close attention to your fencing to make certain there are no broken areas or gaps where your puppy could escape.
Puppies love to gnaw, and garden plants can be a tempting treat to a youngster exploring his world with his mouth. Take a look at the plant species in your yard and find out if any of them are poisonous to dogs. I recommend the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA) Animal Poison Control Center’s Web site (www.aspca.org) for a list of dog-friendly and dog-dangerous plants. Any plant that is potentially toxic should be removed or blocked off with secure fencing, such as chicken wire.
Remember, too, that a rambunctious puppy can dig up a garden before you know what he’s up to. If you have areas of soft dirt or sand in your yard, cover them by spreading out some chicken wire weighed down with large rocks to discourage the pup from digging. Digging is a difficult habit to break, so it’s best to keep it from starting in the first place. Otherwise, your beautiful garden could end up looking like the surface of the moon.
For your puppy’s safety, dispose of any pesticides or chemical fertilizers you might be using in your garden and switch to safer, more natural methods of pest control and plant feeding. Be particularly aware of poisonous bait designed to kill snails and slugs, as this can be very appealing to dogs, and very deadly. If your puppy will be allowed to keep you company while you are in your garage, pay special attention to puppy proofing this area. Garages are notorious for housing hazardous chemicals that are deadly to pets. Antifreeze is a particular concern; look for a nontoxic brand. Tools, rags, car parts — anything that people normally keep in a garage — can become a danger if a puppy is around. Put these items well out of your puppy’s reach.
In addition to puppy proofing your property, you will need to provide your young pup with plenty of supervision, for safety’s sake as well as for socialization. Tap the times you’re with your pup to work in some fun training and games that will shape his manners and give him an appropriate outlet for his high energy.
Q My 10-year-old bichon frise sometimes goes to the bathroom in the house when no one is home. As soon as I walk in the front door, I know what Rascal has done without seeing the accident. She acts incredibly guilty, with downcast eyes and tail between her legs. If she feels so bad when she misbehaves, why does she continue to do it? Also, I think she sometimes urinates on the floor to get even with me for being gone for too long. The longer I’m away from home, the more likely she is to have an accident. Is she trying to get revenge?
A Many owners consider their pets to be members of the family, as well they should. But sometimes we take this idea too far by attaching human emotions and motives to our dog’s behavior. Unlike humans, dogs don’t feel guilty when they have done something we think is wrong. They do, however, react to our body language and tone of voice, and they quickly learn to read and respond to our emotions.
In Rascal’s case, she has figured out that if she has an accident in the house, you will be angry when you get home. It’s very simple in her mind because unlike a human, she can’t grasp complicated ideas like, “I had an accident and five hours later, Mom is going to come home, see it, and get mad at me because now she has to clean it up.” All Rascal knows is that if she has had an accident, you are angry when you come home. Dogs have no concept of cause and effect, so unfortunately, she doesn’t realize that if she didn’t go to the bathroom in the house, you would not be mad.
So if Rascal doesn’t know she did something wrong, why does she look so guilty? Dogs often behave submissively when their owners are angry, in the hopes of ending the conflict. In wolf packs, subordinate members behave submissively in front of more dominant wolves to avoid fights. Rascal tucks her tail and hangs her head when she senses or anticipates your anger to illustrate her submissiveness to you, her pack leader. Signs of submissive behavior include a cringing posture, lowered ears, downcast eyes, and a tucked tail. A canine pack leader would most likely accept this behavioral apology and move on. Unhappily, people tend to become even angrier when confronted by such signs of “guilt,” which makes the poor dog cringe even more.
As for the possibility of Rascal going to the bathroom in the house to get even with you for leaving her alone too long, dogs do not have the capacity to think in these terms. Revenge remains an exclusively human endeavor, and something only a complex brain can calculate. Dogs don’t have the mental ability or the emotional complexity to grasp the concept of getting even.
Rascal’s accidents are most likely the result of her inability to hold her urine for long periods of time. She may be suffering from a urinary tract infection or another medical condition that makes it hard for her to hold a full bladder for an extended period of time. Older dogs often have trouble with incontinence and sometimes need medication to remedy the problem. Take Rascal to your veterinarian for a complete physical evaluation. In the meantime, try not to leave her alone for too long to help her avoid accidents. This might mean asking a neighbor or professional pet sitter to come over and let her out in the yard to relieve herself on days you know you’ll be gone for a long period of time.
Q My five-year-old German shepherd-Lab mix has completely destroyed my garden with her digging. My yard looks like a minefield. I don’t know what to do to stop her. As soon as my husband fills up the holes, Greta digs them up again. Why is she so obsessed with digging, and how can we make her stop?
A Many dogs love to dig in soft dirt or sand. I’m sure you’ve noticed how much Greta seems to be enjoying herself when she digs. In the wild, wolves and other canids dig to create dens for their pups or to hide food. The instinct to dig remains strong in many domestic dogs who bury their bones or toys and scratch out cool places to rest during the summertime heat. Some dogs dig to burn off energy and relieve boredom. Unfortunately, digging, while not harmful to the dog, is destructive behavior that leaves owners frustrated and dogs in big trouble.
Before you can fix Greta’s digging problem, you need to understand her motivation for digging. Does she spend a lot of time alone in your backyard? Do you take the time to play with her? Is she exercised regularly? Both German shepherds and Labrador retrievers are high-energy breeds who need fun and mentally stimulating activities to help wear them out. If you don’t provide something for a dog like Greta to do, she will make her own fun, most likely in a way you don’t appreciate. This is probably why she has taken up digging.
Digging can be a difficult habit to break, because dogs find it so enjoyable. The key to fixing this problem is to give Greta less destructive ways to burn off her energy while also discouraging her from tearing up the yard.
Start by protecting your garden. One method is to put large rocks on top of the areas where Greta likes to dig. Fill in the holes that Greta has dug, and place rocks on top of these spots. Dogs usually prefer soft dirt to carry out their excavations, so for larger areas, try spreading chicken wire out and staking it down while she learns to redirect her energy. Sprinkling or spraying the area with red pepper flakes, citronella or pennyroyal oil, or a commercial dog repellent will make the area less attractive. Trimming her nails may not curb the digging tendency, but could lessen the damage, so give her regular pedicures.
If Greta isn’t already trained, enroll her in an obedience class. Most dogs need a job to do to occupy their minds, and both German shepherds and Labs have a strong work ethic as well as abundant energy. Teaching Greta obedience will give you control over her and give her something to think about besides digging, as well as building a closer relationship with you. If you have time, consider getting involved in a fun competitive canine activity like agility or fly ball. Greta would no doubt love to get involved in one of these high-energy sports. (See page 200 for more on canine sports.)
It is very important that you properly channel Greta’s excess energy. If you need to leave her outside in the yard while you are away at work, take her for a long walk or play a vigorous game of fetch with her in the morning to tire her out. Provide her with alternatives to digging, such as a big rawhide bone or a hollow, hard rubber toy stuffed with treats, to occupy her time. Because she is a high-energy dog, she may need a diversion in the middle of the day to distract her from digging. Hire a professional pet sitter or dog walker, or ask a neighbor to come and play ball with Greta or take her on a long walk. Relieving her boredom and wearing her out physically will go a long way toward discouraging her digging instincts.
In addition to the above, you might compromise a bit and give Greta her own turf to tear up. Try taking a plastic kiddy pool (available at major discount chain stores for less than $10), filling it with dirt, and hiding a few dog biscuits for Greta to sniff out and discover through digging. If you catch her digging on your turf, clap your hands or do something to startle her so that she will stop digging and look at you. Then direct her to where she is allowed to dig. If you praise her for digging appropriately in her own patch of real estate filled with goodies, she will be more likely to ignore the rest of the yard.
Q We have a two-year-old Shetland sheepdog named Casey. She is a wonderful dog except for one thing: She is always chasing our three young children. When the kids run and play in the backyard, Casey goes after them and nips at their heels. This really upsets the kids and they start to cry. Casey has torn their clothing and I’m afraid she is going to hurt one of them accidentally. Why does she do this and how can we stop her?
A Shetland sheepdogs belong to the class of herding breeds, which range in size from the shaggy Old English sheepdog to the stubby-legged corgi. My old corgi, Jazz, took great delight in rounding up my cats whenever one dared to slip through his doggy door into the backyard. He would herd the frustrated feline back to the door and sound the alert for me to check out his successful mission.
In your situation, Casey is simply fulfilling the legacy of her breed. Shelties were bred to herd livestock in their native Shetland Islands, off the coast of Scotland. They helped farmers move sheep from one pasture to another and along country roads to market. To get the sheep to comply, the dogs chased and nipped at their heels. Unfortunately, without sheep to attend to, Casey has chosen to herd your children. The rapid, erratic movements of children playing often trigger a herding dog’s instincts.
This herding tendency is difficult, if not impossible, to suppress. Hundreds of years of breeding went into creating Casey’s behavior, so it’s not something she can just turn off. One solution is to use another form of play to divert her attention. When the kids start playing, engage Casey in a game of fetch. Many herding breed dogs will gladly give up trying to herd unruly children in favor of chasing a tennis ball or nosing a soccer ball or empty plastic jug around the yard. Of course, this only works if you are around to supervise. If you don’t have time to play with her while the kids are running around the yard, your best approach is to remove the temptation and keep Casey in the house while the children are playing.
It’s very likely, however, that Casey won’t appreciate being shut out of the fun and will bark and whine at the door. Don’t let her develop this habit. Practice some obedience work with her to get her attention off the children. If she refuses to be diverted, move her into a room where she can’t see or hear the kids playing. If Casey is crate trained, this would be a good time to make use of the crate. Put her in the crate with a treat or toy and let her stay there until the kids have gone on to a more sedate activity. But do make sure that she has plenty of other opportunities to run and play — she is a young dog with lots of energy to burn. I recommend you spend five to ten minutes each day encouraging Casey to practice herding acceptable objects in an enclosed area such as a backyard.
However you choose to deal with this situation, it’s imperative for you to do something to stop Casey’s behavior. Although your dog may not intend to hurt your children, her nipping and chasing may well result in injury to one of your children or to one of their friends.
Q Whenever I take my beagle, Wesley, on a hike, he stops listening to me. We spent a long time in obedience class learning all the commands, and at home and in the park, he listens well. But when I take him on our weekend hikes to a local wilderness area and remove his leash, it’s as if I don’t exist. He puts his nose to the ground and takes off. I can yell, “Wesley, come!” until I lose my voice, but it does no good. I end up having to run after him and physically grab him to get his attention. I worry that he’ll become so engrossed in sniffing that he will wander off and get hit by a car or get lost. Why does he act this way?
A Beagles, like all hound breeds, were bred specifically to track prey by following scent. The breed has been used for hundreds of years to hunt fox, rabbits, squirrels, and other small game. Hunters on horseback follow packs of these dogs, depending on them to locate the prey and corner it until the hunters can make the kill.
The olfactory power of Wesley’s nose is about hundreds of times stronger than yours. That profound ability to detect the faintest scent and hundreds of years of breeding to track prey have created a dog that becomes completely focused on finding and hunting down game, no matter how many times you shout Wesley, come! This makes it tricky to control Wesley off-leash in a wilderness setting where the scents of rabbits, squirrels, and other animals prevail over your voice. You have a good foundation of obedience training at home, but now you need to work on training him to come when he’s called in that distracting environment. Whatever you do, don’t let him disregard your call. If you repeat come over and over again while he ignores you, you are only teaching him that he doesn’t have to listen.
Because you must be able to reinforce the cue if Wesley isn’t listening, begin working with him on a leash when you take him on hikes. Use a twenty-five-foot clothesline, rather than a standard six-foot leash. The longer line allows you to gradually give Wesley more distance between you as you work on teaching him to come when called from farther away, despite the distractions. Make sure that you select a wide-open area without trees or other objects that can tangle the leash.
Bring treats with you on your training sessions, and start by giving Wesley six feet of clothesline. Wait until he starts sniffing around, and then give him the come command. If he responds and comes to you, praise him heartily and give him a treat, and let him go off again. If he doesn’t respond, “reel” him in on the line, but don’t give him a treat. (Don’t yell at him either!) When he is paying attention to you and coming reliably on six feet of line, give him a couple more feet of clothesline so he’s farther away from you and repeat the exercise. If he ignores you, pull him toward you to make him come, but do not reward him when he gets to you. Go back to a shorter length of line and start over.
With practice, you should have Wesley responding when you call him from the end of the twenty-five-foot rope, each and every time. Once this is accomplished, you can try removing the leash to see if he will still come to you. Ultimately, you should gain more control over Wesley as he learns that he cannot continue whatever he is doing when you say come. Because beagles have such strong scenting and tracking instincts, however, Wesley may never be completely reliable off-leash in a wilderness area. If this turns out to be the case, keep him leashed when you are hiking, for his own protection. (Make sure his collar has up-to-date tags. You might look into microchipping him, as well.) Otherwise, he may pick up a scent, take off after an animal, and find himself lost in the woods. Despite the stories of dogs finding their way home, most lost dogs, even ones with above-average scenting abilities, stay lost.
Q I have wanted a Jack Russell terrier ever since I saw Eddie on the TV show Frasier. How can I find a Jack Russell that has the same personality as Eddie? Are most Jack Russells that smart, cute, and funny?
A The character of Eddie (played by a canine actor named Moose) certainly rates as one of the most endearing canine personalities of recent times. He plays tricks on his people, lets everyone know when he wants something, and rarely does anything wrong. He also spends a lot of time lounging around on the couch. Unfortunately, Eddie’s delightful antics have given many viewers the impression that Jack Russell terriers are mellow, easy to train, and generally well behaved. This is rarely the case.
Television sitcoms such as Frasier and popular movies such as 101 Dalmatians generally don’t deal in reality, and that is particularly true when it comes to dog behavior. Let’s discuss Jack Russells in particular, and then address the issue surrounding breeds popularized by Hollywood.
Although Eddie acts like a charmer on-screen, Moose the actor was abandoned twice by pet owners who couldn’t deal with him before he was finally adopted by an expert in handling difficult dogs. I had the chance to meet Moose and his trainer a couple of times during fund-raising events for animal organizations. He loved the sound of cameras flashing and being surrounded by a crowd of two-legged admirers. He didn’t, however, care to share the stage with other dogs, including Jack Russells. His trainer had to advise autograph-seekers not to bring their dogs up to meet Eddie when he “signed” his book, My Life As a Dog.
To understand the true nature of Jack Russell terriers (renamed Parson Russell terriers by the American Kennel Club), we need to look at their breed heritage. Developed in England hundreds of years ago to kill vermin, Jack Russells were bred to be fearless, energetic, tenacious hunters who were brave enough to attack badgers and other types of wildlife that often fought back. These dogs spent hours a day hunting and killing other animals, a job they learned to relish.
Fast forward to today’s world and you have a big dog in a small package who is always looking for trouble. Many Jack Russells have a very strong hunting instinct, which makes it difficult for them to live with cats and other small dogs. They also have a very independent nature, as they were bred to work alone all day and make their own decisions as they hunted. The result is that they don’t take direction well, meaning they can be notoriously difficult to train. Many Jack Russells also have a strong alpha temperament, which makes them want to be the boss in just about every situation.
If you have your heart set on getting a particular dog based on a movie or TV show, learn more about the breed and meet some of these dogs before you go out and get one. Realize what you are getting into; chances are good that you won’t get a dog that is anything like the one on the screen. Especially if this will be your first dog, you should seriously consider choosing a breed that fits your lifestyle and experience, not just one who looks and acts cute on TV.
Jack Russells and other movie star breeds like Dalmatians can be difficult to handle even for experienced dog owners. First-time owners often find these dogs overwhelming, which is one reason so many of them end up in animal shelters. Other breeds can tax your patience, too, but may have a greater likelihood of adapting to family life. The lovable and very popular Labrador retriever, for example, sports oodles of energy and needs an owner willing to spend the time to train and to provide suitable activities. Take the time to make sure a particular breed is right for you.
BECKY AND HAL CONTACTED ME after an incident in which their nine-month-old Australian shepherd, without perceived warning, suddenly lunged and nipped a friend in their home. Silver was a reserved puppy, but as he matured, he developed a blend of dominance and fear aggression toward strangers. Behavior problems often appear or intensify in adolescence as young dogs test their independence and their position in the family hierarchy. It is also a time when fear issues can surface.
I determined that Silver was aggressive partly because of insufficient leadership from his owners. Australian shepherds can be shy and reactive as “teenagers,” especially if they don’t have owners who set limits and teach self-control. Allowing himself to be petted, then “thinking” about it and biting without provocation suggests he was fearful, but confident enough to act on his insecurities. Silver’s attack on their friend, whom he did not know, indicated that he was protecting Becky.
While we worked to counter Silver’s behavior toward strangers, it was vital to keep him from biting again. Apart from the obvious danger, Silver viewed an attack as a victory, which reinforced his unacceptable actions. For walks, we fitted Silver with a halter collar so he would heed his owners. We also incorporated the use of a basket muzzle to help Becky and Hal relax when Silver was near other people. We made wearing the basket muzzle more appealing by placing special treats in it and inviting Silver to take them. He didn’t see the basket as punishment, and the couple felt safer having him out in public and around others. As they worked with Silver, their change in body language also helped turn the dog’s attitude around.
In order to elevate Becky and Hal’s leadership status in Silver’s eyes, we began the “Nothing in Life is Free” program (see Paying the Price, page 156). Instead of calling the shots, Silver had to earn his meals, playtime, and affection by heeding basic obedience commands. This program taught Silver to view the couple as his leaders and guides, rather than resources that he felt compelled to protect.
The couple increased Silver’s exercise to provide him with a suitable outlet for his energy and enrolled him in obedience training, agility, and herding classes, which engaged his intelligence, increased his confidence level, and sharpened his ability to respond quickly and appropriately to his owners. We also incorporated desensitization and counter-conditioning techniques to help Silver learn that strangers weren’t a threat. Given Silver’s work ethic, Becky put him in “work mode” so that he focused on her rather than worrying about driving the strangers away. Today, Becky and Hal describe Silver as a different dog.
Contributed by Alice Moon-Fanelli, PhD
Q Our Siberian husky, Tundra, is six years old and is always escaping from our yard. He used to dig out from under the fence, so we removed some of the dirt at the base of the fence line and put cement there. This stopped him from digging out, but then he found a way to open the gate. We put a lock on the gate, and now he jumps over the fence. No matter what we do to stop him, he finds a way to escape. We have finally started locking him in the garage when we aren’t home because we tired of going to the animal shelter to pick him up all the time. Why does he run away? Should we take this as a sign that he doesn’t like living here?
A Tundra sounds like a tenacious escape artist who is determined to spend his time checking out the neighborhood. It’s doubtful that this is because he doesn’t like living with you. It’s more likely that when he’s alone, he feels compelled to provide his own amusement. The fact that Tundra is a Siberian husky also contributes to his tendency to roam. Huskies were bred to travel vast distances pulling sleds and to think for themselves while they worked. When Tundra decides to leave your yard, he is responding to his inbred urge to travel and be independent.
When I first adopted Chipper, her husky heritage frequently helped her magically disappear from my yard, but the golden retriever in her seemed to coax her back home to my front porch. She has managed to open locks from inside grooming cages and once even pawed open a dead bolt and doorknob to exit a hotel room in Colorado.
You can take several steps to curb Tundra’s roaming, in addition to the excellent measures you have already employed. First, make sure Tundra is neutered. Male dogs are notorious for doing everything possible to escape their homes in order to search for females in heat. If Tundra is still intact, this could be the biggest source of your problem. Have him neutered right away and keep him confined until his raging hormones subside.
It sounds as if Tundra performs his escape routines when you aren’t home and he’s alone in the backyard. He is probably bored or lonely or both. Before you leave him for long periods of time, give him some vigorous exercise to tire him out. A rousing game of fetch or a long jog (if you are so inclined) can do wonders to burn off some of his excess energy and make him less likely to run away. Physical exercise and mentally stimulating games will also reduce Tundra’s frustration level. Make sure you leave him several chew toys or food puzzle toys to amuse himself with and change them frequently to keep him interested.
Loneliness can motivate a dog to escape his yard in the hopes of finding companionship. Huskies, more than many breeds, are pack animals, bred to work in a group and to be around other dogs. Try hiring a professional pet sitter or a responsible, dog-friendly neighborhood teen to come over in the afternoon to take Tundra for a walk or play fetch with him in the yard. Breaking up the isolation of his day will help reduce his desire to leave your yard in search of companionship. If you have the room and the financial ability, a second dog, if compatible with Tundra, might be the perfect solution.
Tundra’s wandering attitude will probably benefit from some training as well. Enroll him in an obedience class so both of you can learn the basics. Obedience training will reinforce the bond between you and help him see you as his pack leader. If Tundra feels more connected to you emotionally, he’ll be less likely to want to leave your home.
In addition, you might want to secure your yard even further to stave off any more of Tundra’s escape attempts. Since he has taken to jumping over the fence, consider adding chicken wire at the top that is slanted inward at a 90-degree angle to the fence. Tundra will find it very difficult, if not impossible, to jump over the fence with this extension blocking his exit.
Q My three-year-old dachshund, Schotzi, goes into my closet when I’m not home and takes my shoes out to chew on them. I try to keep the closet door closed, but if I inadvertently leave it open even just a few inches, she pushes it open with her nose and drags out a shoe and destroys it. Why is she so obsessed with shoes, and how can I stop this bad (and expensive) habit?
A I’m guessing the shoes in your closet that Schotzi prefers are made of leather. Many dogs find the smell and texture of leather intoxicating. They love the way it feels and tastes when they chew on it. Some people make the mistake of giving old shoes to puppies to chew on when they are little, expecting the pup to know the difference between an old shoe that’s okay to chew and a newer shoe that is off-limits. If Schotzi was given old shoes to gnaw on when she was little, she learned at an early age that shoes are made for chewing. Now, when she wants to gnaw on something, she simply helps herself from your wardrobe.
Even if you didn’t give Schotzi shoes when she was a puppy, she is choosing something that smells like you and that reassures her in your absence. Many dogs deal with loneliness or separation anxiety by seeking out their owner’s belongings (to dogs, even a stinky shoe is a comforting reminder of their owners).
Your first task is to make sure you don’t tempt her by leaving your closet door ajar. You might try putting self-closing hinges on the closet door or even closing your bedroom door as well. You could store your shoes on shelves above her reach or in a hanging container with pockets that hangs on the back of the door. Next, give her something else to chew. Since she has a penchant for leather, consider a rawhide chew toy as a replacement. (Talk to your veterinarian first to make sure rawhide is safe for your dog.) Just before you leave the house, give Schotzi one of these rawhide chews and praise her heartily when she starts working on it. If she isn’t interested at first, a dab of peanut butter or a smear of cheese on the chew will probably increase its attractiveness.
In the event that Schotzi does sink her teeth into one of your shoes, and you catch her in the act, take it away from her (have you taught her the leave it! command? See Ignoring Temptation, page 169.) and trade it for the rawhide chew. In time, she will get the message that shoes are a no and rawhides are a yes.
If Schotzi is one of those rare dogs who does not like to chew on rawhide, you may need to try a different chew toy to get her attention off your shoes. Take a trip to your local pet supply store and bring her with you. Walk her through the aisles and see which chew toys interest her the most. By letting her pick out her own chew toy, you are making her an active participant in her retraining.
Q My dachshund, Bogart, makes us laugh with his bedtime ritual. Whatever the weather, he insists on burying his entire body under the covers and sleeping at our feet. To make it a challenge, we’ve tried tucking the sheets and bedspread in tightly, but he still manages to wiggle his way in. I worry that he won’t get enough oxygen being so deep under the covers. Why does he do this and can it be harmful?
A Bogart belongs to a great breed that was born to dig. Although affectionately known as “wiener dogs” because of their long backs and short legs, dachshund actually means “badger dog” in German. These funny, curious, and determined dogs were bred to dig for burrowing mammals and to take on badgers and other large varmints, climbing out of the hole triumphantly clutching their prey in their mouths. Designed so that their teeth — not their toes — are the first body parts that come in contact with prey deep in a hole, dachshunds are fierce fighters.
As for the bedtime ritual, wiggling into tight places (like under the covers) comes naturally to Bogart and feels cozy. As long as he doesn’t disturb your sleep or nip your toes, let him continue this nighttime ritual. Don’t worry — he can breathe under the sheets and will emerge if he becomes uncomfortable.
Q My family gets the biggest kick out of watching our six-year-old Lab, Barnaby, sleep. Not only does he snore — loudly — but also his outstretched paws move and he twitches all over. Sometimes he yelps or whimpers, but his eyes stay closed. Watching and listening to him when he is sleeping makes us wonder if dogs dream and, if so, what do they dream about?
A Compared with us, dogs are regular Rip Van Winkles. They sleep at least twelve hours a day and rarely suffer from insomnia. At night, they seem to nod off before you even have time to set your snooze alarm. Not all dogs snore like Barnaby, but it is fairly common for dogs to twitch their paws and make noises when they are asleep. Some dogs move their legs as if they were in full stride, perhaps chasing a rabbit. Look closely at Barnaby and you might also notice the twitching of his eyelids and whiskers, indicating that he has fallen into the deep sleep stage. But dogs don’t stay in that deep slumber for long. Most of the time, they sleep lightly and are aware of their surroundings.
Sleep experts report that dogs do indeed dream. The big mystery is their topics of choice when they drift off into dreamland. We can only guess that they dream about activities like trips to the dog park, chowing down on their favorite treat, or finally catching a speedy, elusive squirrel.
Some scientists speculate that dogs may dream primarily of smells. That holds merit. After all, we dream visually because sight is our dominant sense. Dogs rely on their noses more than their eyes. They smell objects before they look, hear, touch, or taste them. It may be a long time before we figure out a way to identify our dogs’ dreams, but it is a strong bet that since much of a dog’s brain is associated with scents, it is a dream filled with lots of canine-welcoming smells.
Q My Brittany spaniel, Chelsea, has a weird habit. When I feed her kibble, she picks up each piece from her bowl and places it on the kitchen floor or in other rooms of the house. After she has removed all the kibble from her bowl, she tracks down each piece throughout the house and eats it. Why does she do this?
A Chelsea’s odd eating habits are a throwback to her ancient roots as a hunter and scavenger. Her ancestors could not count on people to serve them two meals each day. Because food was not always available to wolves and other wild dogs whenever they needed it, they would stash parts of their kill in various places so they could return to it later when they were hungry and couldn’t find prey. Some domestic dogs, particularly hunting breeds like spaniels, still retain this instinct. In fact, some dogs will actually hide each piece of kibble in corners or under furniture before they go back and eat it.
Even though Chelsea receives regular meals, this ancient instinct is telling her to stash the kibble in different places so she can return to it later to eat it. Of course, “later” may only be a few minutes after she has performed her food-relocation ritual. But in Chelsea’s mind, her behavior helps ensure a constant source of food in the future. Chipper does this occasionally with her chew bones. She will sit politely for me to hand over the meaty treat and then dash out the doggy door to bury it in the backyard.
To human observers, this food-spreading behavior doesn’t make sense unless you think about the instinct that is driving it. Just remember as you watch Chelsea spread her food around that she is heeding the call of the wild. If you don’t want kibble surprises all over your house, I recommend that you keep bedroom and bathroom doors closed during feeding time. Stepping on hard kibble with bare feet is no delight!