It’s easy to fall into the notion that people are superior to the rest of the animal kingdom because of our ability to talk. Some of us speak more than one language. Some of us know many mega-syllable words and can even pronounce them. Some of us, in fact, never seem to stop talking! That’s all great when it comes to speaking people-to-people.
As much as we may view ourselves as accomplished linguists, the truth is that our dogs are the truly stellar communicators, and often without uttering a single bark or yip. In dog-to-dog discussions, there is rarely a communication miscue. Dogs are more consistent in their “talk” than we are. They don’t tell lies and they don’t hide their feelings.
Dogs do their best to convey their canine cues to us, but sometimes we fail to interpret their signals accurately. There is no “dogtionary” published yet, but we can improve our communication with our canine pals if we learn some of their “language.” Along the way, we may commit a canine faux pas or two, but that’s all right. After all, we’re only human.
Q My dog is a very vocal miniature schnauzer. At times, it seems like we are actually carrying on a conversation. I never knew that dogs could make so many different sounds. She has several different barks, she whines, and she even makes singing sounds. How can I better understand what she is saying?
A Miniature schnauzers are among the chattiest of breeds. Like many of their terrier cousins, they were originally bred to bark, or speak up, as a way of alerting their owners to rats or other rodents in the home and while going to ground after small game when hunting. Beagles and other hound breeds bark to answer back to their two-legged hunting companions. Corgis, Australian shepherds, and other herding breeds yap to control the comings and goings of sheep, cattle, and other livestock.
Although dogs communicate primarily with nonverbal body language, they are capable of a wide range of sounds. There is always a purpose for their barks, even if the reason is sheer boredom. These sounds have consistent meanings, based on the pitch, pace, and overall tones. Here is a list of some common dog sounds.
HIGH-PITCHED, LONG BARK. “I’m worried or lonely and need assurance.”
RAPID, HIGH-PITCHED, REPETITIVE BARKS. “Let’s play! Chase me! At least throw my ball!”
LOW, REPETITIVE BARKS. “Stay away from my family! Keep off my property!”
A SINGLE BARK OR TWO. “Hey! I’m here! What are you doing?”
GROWLING WITH TEETH EXPOSED AND TENSE BODY LEANING FORWARD. “I’m warning you — back off and leave me alone.”
GROWLING WITH BODY CROUCHED LOW. “You’re making me nervous. If you come too close, I might snap at you.”
SINGSONG HOWLING. “Hey, calling all canines! Who’s out there? What’s going on?”
SQUEAKY, REPETITIVE YAPS OR WHINES. “I’m hurt or scared or feeling stressed. I need attention!”
Q When I play fetch with my two-year-old golden retriever, she sometimes lets out a little growl when I reach for the ball. She looks at me sideways, seems to have an open-mouth grin, puts her butt high in the air, and stretches her front paws out. Even though she is growling, is she being playful? Or challenging?
A From the body postures you describe, your dog is thoroughly happy to be playing with you. She is showing you the “play bow” position (front legs splayed out, head lowered, rear end elevated). Her alert expression and throaty noise are friendly invites for you to continue trying to grab the ball from her and tossing it. She regards you as a valued playmate.
Playtime with your dog provides a golden opportunity to improve your communication and practice good manners. When your dog is in a playful mood, use the chance to reinforce some basic behaviors, such as sit, wait, and leave it. Have her heed these cues before getting a reward, in this case, the tennis ball. Finally, you decide when the game is over, not your dog. This reinforces your position as leader.
Stumped by what to call your new dog? You can go with the majority by dubbing her Molly or him Max — two of the most popular canine monikers. If you want to be more original, here are some recommendations.
Stick with a two-syllable name ending in a vowel, like Buddy or Gracie.
Select a name you enjoy saying out loud — not an embarrassing one like Poopsie.
Consider names associated with something you enjoy, like Chipper or Lily.
Avoid names that sound too much like no such as Joe or Flo.
Link the name to your dog’s personality: Happy, Frisky, or Speedy.
Make sure your dog associates his name with positive experiences. Use it when you play, feed, and cuddle with your new dog. Resist saying his name when you need to stop a behavior like digging or barking.
Q Whenever my husky mix, Jessie, meets a new dog, she goes through a whole ritual of posturing. Usually, the hair on her spine goes up. She marches up to the newcomer at our dog park in silence. She sniffs the dog’s rear end and often places her head over the other dog’s back. Sometimes she will make some quick growling noises, but within a few minutes, the two are playing chase and then sharing a water bowl. I know my dog is not aggressive, but I find myself always having to explain to other dog owners that this is just how Jessie meets other dogs. Is this normal dog behavior?
A Jessie behaves a lot like Chipper does. Dominant dogs, especially female ones, like to know right away who the boss is. Sometimes, after their initial introduction, the other dog dominates Chipper, who accepts being first mate rather than the captain of the canine dog park. Other times, Chipper is in charge.
Dogs have only elementary verbal language but very sophisticated body language. Their body language involves every part of their body from nose to tip of tail, and every dog knows how to read it. Just as we put words together to form a meaningful message, dogs read two or three body cues together to make an understandable dog message.
When dogs first meet, they often quickly size each other up without a single bark. They sniff each other, eye each other, and within seconds know each other’s sex, age, health condition, and position in the canine hierarchy. Just as you described, the dominant dog will loom her head over the back of the submissive one. There is a moment of stillness as the two dogs study one another. Both understand this posturing and will generally accept their social rankings. Sometimes some snarling will occur or a brief scuffle, usually over in seconds, will break out — but sometimes a serious fight can ensue.
This form of behavior is far different from what you see when two canine chums greet one another. During friendly reunions, familiar dogs will sniff each other’s faces and rear ends but may also jump up and touch front paws in midair or playfully mouth their pal’s neck or tug on their cheek. Notice their mouths. Happy, relaxed dogs keep their mouths open. Tense, alert dogs keep their mouths tightly closed.
Even though you describe Jessie as not aggressive, pay close attention to new doggy introductions at the dog park and other places. Many dogs are more territorial when leashed, but it’s always best to have them under control when they first meet. Explain that Jessie can be a little snappy at first but that she usually makes friends. If the dog park protocol is for dogs to run loose, stay nearby while Jessie introduces herself. While dogs will usually sort things out for themselves pretty quickly, you need to be close enough to break up a fight if the other dog turns out to be as assertive as Jessie is.
Q When I talk to my dog, Charlie, he usually cocks his head, as if he is really listening and understanding what I’m telling him. Do dogs know words, or is he just listening to the tone of my voice?
A Dogs read your voice tone more than the actual words to gauge if you’re delivering praise or discipline. Try this test with Charlie. Stiffen your muscles, grab a telephone book, and begin to call out the names alphabetically in a stern, low tone in front of him. Watch his response. I bet he will glance your way, crouch down, and move away from you, almost as if to say, “I can tell you’re angry but I’m not sure why.”
Now repeat the exercise, but this time, relax your muscles, sit on the floor, and call out the names in the phone book in a cheery, musical tone. Watch what Charlie does. He will probably race over to you with a circular wag and a happy, open-mouth grin and try to give you kisses.
The same words spoken in a different tone elicit different reactions from your dog. Although tone matters more, many dogs do understand specific words and phrases. That’s because we have been consistent when speaking these words followed by a particular action. Chipper licks her muzzle whenever I say to her, “Want to eat?” because she knows a goodie is coming. At night, when I say, “Find your spot!” Chipper races upstairs and flops on her bed in my bedroom. Her motivation? She receives a tasty nighttime snack each time she complies.
You can train your four-legged vocabulary builder to perform some nifty tricks by using treats and praise to reinforce desired responses. For example, let’s say you want to wow your pals when they visit by telling your dog to give you the sports section from your newspaper. This is easier to accomplish than you may realize. Start by placing several sections of your daily newspaper on the floor in order, such as the front page, the local news, sports, and features.
Alert your dog to pay attention. Put a small treat on the sports section. Point to the sports section while saying, “Find the sports page.” When your dog’s nose touches the sports section to pick up the treat, say “sports page” and praise him. Do this several times in a row for a few days, and then gradually remove the treat, but continue saying, “Find the sports page.” Offer the treat after your dog touches the sports pages. In time, your dog will learn the order of the newspaper sections and always go to the third one — the one with all the scores. He will score a hit with your friends.
Q Our dog gets so excited whenever we say the words “treat” or “walk” that we’ve started to spell them out. But now it seems like she understands when we spell out “t-r-e-a-t” or “w-a-l-k.” She starts to jump around, wiggle, and squeal with delight. We are amazed that she responds. Is our dog a speller?
A Many dog owners try to outwit their dogs by coming up with a secret code for objects and events that are highly prized by dogs, such as treat, walk, and car ride. It is natural to switch to spelling to tone down the emotional outbursts of pure delight from a dog on constant alert for her favorite words. But think about how these words became such favorites in the first place. Dogs quickly learn to associate the word “treat” with the tasty biscuit or dog cookie that you hand over. They soon catch on that “walk” leads to you reaching for the leash and heading to the front door.
By spelling out these key words every time you provide a treat or take her for a trek to the park, your dog links these sounds with their meanings. She can’t spell, but she is good at spotting predictable, consistent behaviors by you. Knowing this, you can expand your dog’s vocabulary and wow your friends by associating specific spelled-out words with specific actions. Your dog could “understand” that “t-a-l-k” means you want him to let out a woof and that “r-e-m-o-t-e” means that you want him to fetch the television remote for you.
I imagine if you looked blankly at your dog and spelled out “e-n-c-y-c-l-o-p-e-d-i-a” in a calm tone without moving, your dog might listen politely but wouldn’t rush for the treat jar or grab the leash. And certainly, she will never hound your bookshelf in search of an encyclopedia or beat you in a game of Scrabble!
Q Whenever I meet a new dog, even one belonging to friends, I get a bit nervous. As a child, I was bitten by a neighbor’s dog. It was bad enough that I needed stitches. I love animals but always find myself hesitating before greeting a dog for the first time, even a small one. I guess it is hard to shake childhood memories, but I don’t want to be unduly afraid or nervous around dogs. What signs can I look for to determine if the dog is friendly or not? How should I approach a dog I’m meeting for the first time?
A I sympathize, since I was also bitten by a dog when I was a child. In fact, children far outnumber burglars and mail carriers as victims of dog bites. It is okay to acknowledge your fear and to be a bit cautious when meeting a dog for the first time. That’s being safe and smart.
When greeting dogs, especially ones you don’t know, avoid a head-on stare. Sustained eye contact can be threatening to any dog. Also, do not hover over the dog, pat him on the head, or try to give him a bear hug — these are potentially threatening gestures to dogs. Extend the back of your hand slowly to allow the dog the opportunity to sniff and approach you.
To “read” a dog, you must size up the entire body language of the dog and not rely on just one physical cue. Here are some head-to-tail signs to note when meeting a new dog.
EARS. Challenging or dominant dogs keep their ears erect, tense, and pointed forward. Calm, contented dogs tend to relax their ears. Fearful or worried dogs often pull their ears flat against their heads.
EYES. Direct staring by a dog means confidence and, possibly, dominance. Dogs who look at you and then look away are indicating that they are yielding power to you. Dogs who greet you with “soft eyes” are content. Large, dilated pupils can be a sign of fear or aggression, especially in conditions when the lighting should make the pupils contract.
MOUTH. A soft, relaxed mouth indicates a relaxed dog. A tight mouth or tensed-up lips show tension. A curled lip and exposed teeth may be signs of aggression or, in the case of certain breeds like Chesapeake Bay retrievers, could be signs of smiling. Tongue flicking often means a feeling of uncertainty or uneasiness. Yawning usually indicates stress, not fatigue. Yawning helps lower a dog’s blood pressure to help him stay calm. Dogs who mouth your hand without using their teeth are delivering a friendly greeting. However, adult dogs who use their teeth are challenging your authority.
TORSO TENSION. Muscle tension is your barometer to the emotions being conveyed by a dog. Tightened muscles, especially around the head and shoulders, often indicate a dog who is scared or aggressive.
GESTURES. Play bowing (chest down, front legs extended, back end up, tail wagging) is the universal canine sign for happiness and an invitation to play. Nudging you with a nose is a plea for affection or a cue that you’re in his chair and could you please move. Lifting a paw often means “let’s play” or “pay attention to me.”
FUR. A calm dog displays a smooth coat from his shoulders to his hips. A scared or challenged dog often elevates the hairs (called hackles) along his spine to appear larger in size.
TAIL. An alert dog holds his tail tall and erect. A fearful dog tucks his tail between his legs. An excited dog hoists his tail high and wags it quickly from side to side. A cautious or nervous dog holds his tail straight out and wags it slowly and steadily. A contented dog keeps his tail relaxed and at ease.
When in doubt, accept the most fearful or aggressive signal. If the back end is acting friendly and the tail is wagging, but the dog is grimacing and looks tense, assume the most dangerous end is telling the truth. If there is fear in any body language sign, then fear is the answer. Better to be safe and greet that dog from a distance.
Q My husband and I did a lot of research on various breeds before choosing a dog. We decided on a rare breed called Glen of Imaal terrier because of the breed’s sturdiness, compact size, and non-shedding coat. We adopted a spirited puppy we named Byline, who is now eight months old. As a first-time dog owner, I don’t “speak” dog very well. Sometimes, when Byline flops down and goes belly up, he seems to love me giving him belly scratches. Other times, however, he responds to my belly scratches by growling slightly. How can I better understand what Byline is trying to convey to me?
A Congratulations on the new addition to your family. I applaud you for taking the time to research the breeds before making a decision about the one that best suits your lifestyle. As for learning “dog speak,” you cannot focus on just one part of a dog’s body and expect to accurately interpret what Byline is trying to tell you. You have to look at the whole package and size up the situation. You also need to take into account the personality traits of terrier breeds. Although there are always exceptions, terriers tend to be bossy and need to know that you are in charge. Terriers heed owners who are clear and consistent in their body and word cues.
Let me illustrate with the belly flop, a common canine posture. When a dog rolls on his back and exposes his belly, most owners perceive this as a sign of submission. But pay close attention to the dog’s posture and muscle tension. A dog who goes into a shoulder roll and stays tucked, with belly up, muscles relaxed, tongue flicking, and eyes looking at you sideways, is usually submissive. These are good, consistent cues to let you know Byline wants his belly rubbed.
But a dog who openly flops on his back with belly exposed and muscles tight, while staring directly at you and perhaps talking or growling slightly, is a confident dog calling the shots and demanding that you pay attention and do what he wants. At eight months, Byline is at an age when he is trying to determine his ranking in his “pack” — that is, in your household. You need to be in charge. If Byline starts to stare and tighten his muscles while you are rubbing his belly, stand up and have him sit for you. When he does, praise him briefly and then walk away. These actions tell Byline that you are the leader.
I strongly encourage you to enroll Byline in a basic obedience class taught by a professional trainer who uses positive reinforcement techniques. Byline is at a challenging adolescent age and would benefit greatly from this type of class. He will learn good doggy manners that will last him a lifetime.
Q I adore my golden retriever, but she showers me with affection. She is constantly licking my face, my hands, even my toes! Why use the bathtub when she’s around? How can I tone down her greetings and still let her know I appreciate her?
A You have what I call a “Licky Lou” type of dog. When I first adopted Chipper, she was a sloppy, persistent kisser as well! I’m happy to see that you are concerned about not snuffing out her enthusiastic joy for you. That is very important. Don’t worry, it is possible to teach her other ways to show her affection.
First, recognize that your dog is doing what comes naturally. Puppies instinctively lick their mothers’ chins and faces in their constant quest for chow. (Hey, these are fast-growing critters!) Many experts suggest this behavior dates back to the days when female wolves would hunt and devour their prey before returning to their litters, because it was easier to travel on a full stomach than lug a heavy rabbit home. Their hungry pups would lick their faces to cause them to regurgitate this barely digested food.
But face licking goes beyond the need to eat. Puppies are also conveying that they recognize and honor the elevated stature of adult dogs. Pay attention the next time you go to a dog park or other place with friendly dogs. Notice the ones who come up to others, lower their posture a bit, and gently kiss the muzzle of the other dog. It is their way of saying, “Hey, you rule. Now, wanna play chase?”
When it comes to licking people, sometimes the motivation may be a bit of leftover gravy that draws the attention of our dogs. However, the main reason some dogs shower their owners with kisses is what Aretha Franklin sings about: R-E-S-P-E-C-T. Even as they age, many dogs regard their people as leaders of their pack, the two-legger who deserves admiration. Take it as a canine compliment. Your dog is seeking your attention and your approval.
The amount of canine kissing depends on a dog’s personality. Strong-willed and adventure-seeking dogs tend to dole out kisses less frequently than sociable, happy-to-meet-all dogs who lick to acknowledge that you outrank them. Some breeds, like golden retrievers, are very mouth-oriented and express themselves by unleashing a kissing barrage.
So, how do you stop succumbing to impromptu doggy baths? Forget about pushing your dog away after that first “kiss.” Odds are this action will only motivate her to deliver more licks because she thinks she failed to communicate her message the first time. Or, she may perceive it as a signal to play and heap on more sloppy kisses.
Your best options are to teach your dog the kiss and stop commands. Your goal is to acknowledge your dog’s strong desire to display her feelings toward you while maintaining your rank as top dog. You also need some backup aids, such as chew toys, to offer as appropriate distractions for “oral-minded” dogs.
Conduct mini-training sessions during quiet times, such as when your dog just wakes up, after a long walk, or any time when she and you are in a calm mood (not when you’ve just walked in the door!). Allow her to lick your face or hand once, say good kiss, and give her a small treat. Repeat a few times. Now, you’re ready to teach her the stop command. When she moves toward licking you, put your hand in front of her face like a traffic cop halting cars and say stop. If she doesn’t lick, dole out a treat and praise her.
It can be tough to try to bottle the enthusiasm of a tail-wagger who is happy to see you after you’ve been gone for way-too-many-hours, so you also need to teach your dog a more acceptable greeting than a face bath. Teach her to shake paws or perform a trick, such as sitting up or fetching a favorite toy when you come in the door. In time, she will learn that the big payoffs — your affection and a tasty treat — occur when she has licked her licking habit.
Q Our very happy two-year-old Labrador retriever, Nacho, can be a little too excited when she greets people entering our front door. When the doorbell rings, she races to the door. Try as we may, we are unable to stop her as she leaps up and puts her front paws on the shoulders of our house guests. Nacho weighs 75 pounds and has knocked down a few guests with her leaps. What can we do to keep her from jumping up on people? We don’t want her to cause an injury.
A A leaping Lab can generate as much force as a determined linebacker tackling a quarterback. Although your dog’s intentions are friendly, unlike the linebacker’s, the results can be the same, with the recipient of the “hit” landing on the ground, hard.
First, you need to understand why Nacho leaps. In the dog world, leaping up and greeting another dog face to face is an accepted form of friendly communication. Watch two dogs who are pals play together. They may behave like a couple of stallions with their front paws touching up high as they romp. Many dogs transfer this canine hello to people in a bid for attention.
When our dogs are pups, we often mistakenly encourage them to leap up to greet us. It’s hard to resist a cute, 10-pound Lab pup when she stretches her front paws up to your thigh to say “hi.” By reaching down and responding with a hug or a pat on the head, we inadvertently instill in our fast-growing canines that this is an acceptable behavior.
Nacho is not too old to relearn proper doggy greetings toward houseguests and people she meets with you during walks and other outings. Curb the leaping by teaching her off and sit. Start by putting Nacho on a head-type collar (such as a Gentle Leader or Halti) and a leash six feet or longer in length. Ask a friend to enter your home, without acknowledging the dog in any way. As Nacho races to deliver an airborne “hello,” gently but firmly turn the leash so that Nacho must turn her head toward you. Firmly say off! This grounds her and keeps her from touching your friend.
When she stops trying to jump and sits down, immediately say good sit! and give her a treat or praise. Repeat this sequence a few times in a row to help Nacho understand what earns her praise and a tasty reward. Expand this tutorial by enlisting other friends to come in and wait to greet Nacho until she sits politely.
Once Nacho has mastered the sit on a leash, you can teach her to sit politely at a rug near your door to greet guests. Like most Labs, Nacho sounds like a very social dog. You may not want to snuff out her desire to greet guests, but if you use off and sit consistently, she will be able to welcome visitors without bowling them over.
Q My new next-door neighbors leave their very noisy Sheltie in their backyard during the day while they are at work. He yaps and yips constantly, and his bark is so sharp and piercing that it hurts my ears. I operate a home business and have to shut my windows and turn on the radio to muffle the nonstop noise. What can I do to restore peace in my neighborhood?
A Opt for a little diplomacy and neighborhood friendliness first. Introduce yourself to your new neighbors and engage them in conversation. Ask them about their dog and his personality. Tactfully ask why he stays out in the backyard and tell them that he barks a lot during the day. Although Shelties are known as vocal breeds, you’d be surprised at how many people are unaware that their dogs are big barkers when they are away from home. Some assume that their dog barks only when they’re at home to alert them of someone approaching their property.
Without being nasty, inform them that you work from home and that you sincerely want to work together for a solution. The key is not to put them in a defensive posture, from which they won’t listen to what you are saying. Try mentioning the fact that some dogs bark out of boredom and the need for exercise. Depending on where you live, backyard dogs can be at risk for being teased, stolen, or even attacked by coyotes. They can dig under fences and escape and possibly be hit by a vehicle.
Provide your neighbors with some remedies. Ask if it might be possible for the dog to stay inside and have access to a doggy door for bathroom breaks. Suggest they give their Sheltie long-lasting treats like a hollow, hard rubber toy stuffed with cheese, kibble, or peanut butter. Ask them if they have considered taking their dog to a day care for a day or more each week. A tired dog is a happy, quiet one.
In addition, your new neighbors may not realize there are special collars designed to control excessive barking. These collars come in many forms. Please do not suggest an anti-bark collar that relies on electric shock or vibrations; they are cruel. Instead, suggest pain-free types that contain citronella oil. When a dog barks while wearing this type of collar, the noise triggers the release of citrus scent. Dogs detest this smell and usually stop barking. These collars are ideal for use on dogs when owners are not within sight or sound. But experts caution against using these collars on dogs who are anxious, because the citrus sprays can worsen their uneasy feelings. They could become increasingly stressed and bark more.
With permission, you can also do a little dog training yourself once you have met the Sheltie and it’s clear the dog likes you. When there’s a break in the Sheltie’s barking, go to the fence with some healthy treats. (Ask the neighbors first if their dog has any food allergies.) Let the Sheltie see and smell the treats. When he is not barking, say quiet and give a treat. Walk away for a few seconds and come back. When he starts barking, say quiet and wait for him to stop talking before giving him the treat. What you are doing is teaching the Sheltie that silence is golden, and delicious.
The goal here is cooperation. You don’t want a neighborhood feud. But if all of these suggestions fail, then you may have to contact your local municipality about noise ordinances that could apply to barking dogs. I hope, however, that this strategy is employed only as a last resort. Good luck!
WHEN THEY HEARD THE FRONT DOOR OPEN, Strider, a male Siberian Husky-mix, and Daisy, a female Labrador-mix, immediately went into seek-and-destroy mode, sometimes lunging and growling at guests. Passersby felt threatened whenever Strider was outside because he would charge the fence, baring his teeth and growling. The mailman complained about delivering the mail. When owners Marcia and Pat had to stop inviting friends and family to visit, they realized they had a serious issue.
It was clear that Strider was the main problem. He went ballistic when a person or dog passed by their home, and Daisy backed him up. Strider vomited every day, licked himself and his bedding excessively, urine-marked in the house, growled at Pat, and slammed his whole body against the door if he heard a noise outside, even if the noise was his owners coming home from work.
A previous trainer’s work with a shock collar was ineffective, since it did not address Strider’s agitated, emotional state. All he learned was to stop barking when the collar was on. Once it came off, he resumed the outward displays of his true emotion: anxiety. Since urine-marking, vomiting, compulsive licking, and aggression can be signs of stress and anxiety, Strider was put on an antianxiety medication by his veterinarian. The medication helped reduce these behaviors, but didn’t completely eliminate them.
We also took steps to make the house safer for everyone. The mailbox was moved from the house to the street. To stop their protective barking, the dogs were no longer permitted to be in the backyard unsupervised. Both dogs were trained to come when called and not to patrol the fence.
They were enrolled in a class designed for dogs who are uncomfortable around other dogs. We worked on changing Strider’s emotional state when he was around people and other dogs from must attack to nice to see you. As he relaxed, we taught him coping behaviors for stressful situations. Instead of lunging and barking when the doorbell rings, Strider now runs to his mat in the kitchen and calmly looks to Marcia for advice on what to do.
Marcia and Pat have resumed hosting dinner parties and cookouts at their home. The dogs no longer lunge and bark at visitors or passersby. Strider’s anxiety behaviors have also abated. While they still exercise caution when their dogs are around other people, Marcia and Pat can see that Strider and Daisy are more relaxed now that they understand that the humans decide whether the person at the front door is friend or foe.
Contributed by Pia Silvani, CPDT
Q I recently adopted Gracie, a four-year-old mixed breed from my local animal shelter. I’m guessing that she is German shepherd, golden retriever, and perhaps collie. She was found as a stray and was a little underweight. I wanted an adult dog and adopted her because of her gentle, sweet nature. I have had dogs all my life, but Gracie ranks as the whiniest critter I’ve ever met. She shadows me around the house and whines all the time. She nudges me. She seems hungry for constant attention. Even when we return from long walks, she whines. I tell her everything is okay. I hug her. Still, she whines. What can I do to curb this whining? I love her very much, but she is driving me crazy!
A Like other canine sounds, whining is unmistakable. Bottom line: dogs whine to seek care. But there are many variations of the canine whine. Pups discover that by whining when they are cold or hungry, they attract their mother’s attention. By the time these pups are old enough to be adopted, they have become very wise about whining. They transfer this whine-for-care behavior onto their new people parents. Some adult dogs also whine for attention. Others whine out of excitement, such as when they eye a squirrel through the kitchen window. Some whine due to pain or illness. Some whine out of frustration, especially when their favorite toy ball gets lodged under the sofa.
Even though Gracie’s puppyhood and early adult years remain a mystery, you have the opportunity to develop a new relationship with her, preferably a whine-free one. First, have Gracie thoroughly examined by your veterinarian to rule out any possible medical reasons for her whining. If she is deemed to be physically fit, then you can work on changing her behavior. The goal is to communicate that she has a safe, caring home. The trick is to give Gracie love and attention without inadvertently reinforcing her whining ways. If you cater to her every whimper, you risk creating a very pushy, overly dependent dog who expects you to cater to her every need when she vocalizes or nudges.
One way to reduce whining is to provide Gracie with plenty of exercise each day. Take her on walks lasting at least 20 minutes. Play with her in the backyard. At home when she starts whining, try to figure out the reason. Respond to the legitimate ones, like the need to go outside or a reminder that it’s dinnertime. But if she whines for the sake of whining, walk away. Ignore her. Really give her the cold shoulder. That means do not talk to her, look at her, or touch her. When she is quiet and calm, approach her, praise her calmly, and give her a treat.
You need to break the whining cycle, just like parents must do with fussy toddlers. If you don’t nip this habit soon, it could develop into a full-blown case of separation anxiety. Once Gracie learns that whining gets her no attention from you, which is the opposite of what she desires, she will realize that being quiet reaps the best rewards.
Q I adopted a Welsh Corgi from a rescue group a couple of months ago. Booker is about 18 months old and from what I understand was neglected a lot as a puppy. His previous family said they were too busy to keep him. He is still adjusting to my home and acts timid and tentative.
I’ve taken steps to make him feel at home with a new doggy bed, treats, and lots of toys. He enjoys being petted, but he doesn’t like his toes touched. He quickly pulls his paw from my grasp and tries to retreat. I know I need to keep his nails trimmed, but how can I convince him that I won’t hurt his paws?
A First, thank you for giving Booker a second chance and a much better home. You’re right. He is still adjusting to this new scene and has to build up his confidence and his trust in you. Second, many dogs of all breeds and mixes are fussy about having their toes touched, but corgis tend to be among the most toe shy, for reasons that remain mysterious. Several years ago, when I adopted Jazz, a corgi puppy, knowledgeable corgi breeders and trainers alerted me to this touchy toe trait and encouraged me to play with my puppy’s toes from day one. Even though Booker is 18 months old, you can still train him to accept paw or toe touching. He may never welcome having his feet handled, but he can learn to tolerate it.
Even though dogs sport very tough paw pads, similar to thick leather soles on shoes, the rest of their foot anatomy was not designed to be as durable. The area on top and between the toes is especially sensitive to the touch for all dogs, not just corgis, because the area around the toes is packed with nerve endings that alert the brain to any pressure that could possibly cause pain or injury.
In Booker’s case, in addition to his breed tendency, it is unlikely that anyone ever handled his paws, given his history. He may also harbor painful memories of bad pedicures. His nails may have been cut too short, causing bleeding and pain. If so, he will be vigilant in trying to protect his toes from future harm.
But as you mention, all dogs need trimmed nails. Overgrown nails can snag on carpet, scratch bare arms and legs, and affect the way a dog walks. The trick is to make toe touching a pleasant experience for Booker. To build his trust, start by teaching him to lift his front paw and touch your outstretched hand (hold a treat in your closed fist to encourage him) while you tell him shake paws. Don’t grasp his paw at first; just touch it lightly and let it go. Heap on the praise and the treats. Slowly work up to holding his paw gently for a few seconds and releasing it before he struggles to escape. Once he is comfortable, ask him to shake with his other front paw. Keep sessions brief and remember the treats and praise, because you are helping to build new, happy memories in Booker.
You’re ready for phase two. When Booker is resting quietly, lightly touch one paw and give it a gentle squeeze. Watch Booker’s reaction. If he seems okay, bring out your happy voice and a treat. Proceed with touching a second paw, followed by praise and treats. I recommend that you also give him therapeutic massages that include touching his feet. If he is relaxed from a massage, he should be more tolerant of having you touch his feet.
Phase three calls for bringing out the nail clippers. Leave them in a favorite place, like on the sofa where the two of you hang out or next to his food bowl. When he sniffs the clippers, praise and hand out a treat. The goal is to get Booker to start viewing the nail clippers as another part of the household furnishings. Progress to sitting on the sofa with the clippers and a treat in your closed hand. Invite Booker to come up and sniff your hand. Open it slowly, show the clippers, and hand over the treat. When Booker stays, begin squeezing the clippers and tossing treats to get him to associate the sound with a tasty payday.
After a few weeks, begin clipping one paw at a time at first. Give him a special treat (hot dogs or cheese really motivate most dogs!) after each toe. Then stop the grooming session. Do the next paw the next day. Don’t forget the treats. Gradually, you should be able to give Booker a full pedicure in one session.
Q After my husband of 59 years died, I decided to adopt a puppy. Buddy fills my house with joy and happiness. He gives me companionship and makes me laugh. I also feel safer having him here, especially at night. Unfortunately, Buddy likes to nip my hands and arms to get my attention. He isn’t biting aggressively, but his playful nips cause bruises and occasionally his teeth break the skin. My hands and arms are sore. I tried spraying Bitter Apple on my hands and arms, but Buddy actually likes the taste! What can I do to stop him from being so mouthy?
A Sounds like you have one spirited and loyal puppy. Mouthing is a very common behavior for puppies, who have very sharp baby teeth that are falling out to make room for adult teeth. Depending on the breed, this teething period and the desperate need to chew to soothe sore gums can last up to a year. I’m not sure what type of dog Buddy is, but a lot of herding dogs, such as Border collies, tend to use their mouths when they’re playing. They have been bred to herd cattle and sheep by nipping at their heels. Some hunting dogs, like Labrador retrievers, are also particularly mouthy.
Whatever breed he is, the nipping and mouthing is still painful. Bitter Apple spray is usually effective because most dogs can’t stand the taste. But there are always exceptions like your Buddy. An effective alternative is breath freshener spray. The minty taste is far from being a canine favorite. You might also try dabbing your hands and arms with pickle juice. The juice contains a very sour additive called alum, which keeps the pickles crisp but is also a good dog deterrent, if you can stand the smell yourself!
It is more important, however, to train Buddy not to nip than to rely on repellents. He is bonding with you and needs to know that his nipping hurts. Around eight to ten weeks of age, puppies in litters learn about bite inhibition. When one puppy bites too hard, and his sibling yelps, he learns to soften his play bite. So when Buddy mouths you too roughly, you need to yelp loudly. In addition, you need to stand up, turn your back on him, and walk slowly away. The message is, “You are not fun right now, and playtime is over.” Buddy wants to play with you and when you walk away, he will learn that mouthing ends good times.
That said, Buddy is at an age when he needs to chew. When he gets in a mouthy mood, offer him some suitable chew toys as substitutes for your hands and arms. When you play with him, use thick rope toys or rubber tugs that provide something safe for Buddy to put his mouth around while protecting your hands and arms. Please resist smacking his muzzle or holding his mouth closed, as these punitive tactics can backfire and cause him to bite more, and harder.
Q When my Dalmatian died at age 14, I contacted a Dalmatian rescue group. I wanted to adopt an adult dog rather than raise a puppy again. I fell in love with two-year-old Gus, who is deaf. How can I teach him to listen to me when he can’t hear my words? He wants to please but sometimes gets so distracted during walks that he doesn’t pay attention to me. He is focused on a squirrel scurrying up a tree or hunting for cats hiding under cars. How can I communicate with him effectively?
A I applaud you for adopting Gus. No dog is perfect, even those with keen hearing. In the past, far too many good dogs were euthanized simply because they were deaf, whether due to a genetic disorder or injury. Dalmatians, Samoyeds, West Highland terriers, and white German shepherds are other breeds that show an increased risk for bilateral deafness, which is hearing loss that affects both ears.
When it comes to training deaf dogs, first realize that no dog speaks English and that most dogs get distracted by squirrels and cats! Dogs “talk” to each other primarily with nonverbal body language cues. Any noise they make, be it barking, yipping, whining, or growling, is secondary to their unspoken communication through sniffing, facial expression, and posturing. Second, recognize that just like hearing dogs, deaf dogs learn through consistency and patience. Instead of given spoken cues to Gus, you need to use sign language. Believe it or not, many people with deaf dogs have learned American Sign Language (ASL) in order to “speak” to their dogs. The added bonus is that you can now communicate with people with hearing loss as well.
You can also create your own hand signals to communicate with Gus. You need to choose gestures that are distinctly individualized to avoid confusion. You don’t want your hand signal for sit to be too similar to your gesture for come. You need Gus’s full attention to teach him any command. I recommend that you conduct your training sessions in a place with few distractions, such as your living room, and at an optimum time, like right before mealtime when he is hungry. Catch his eye by thumping on the floor or waving your hand. One of the first commands you need to teach Gus is the watch me signal. While standing in front of Gus, take a small treat, bring it to his nose, then move the treat up to your eye. When Gus follows the movement of the treat, clap or give a thumbs-up approval sign and then hand him the treat. When Gus responds to watch me consistently, you are ready to introduce other signs.
When Gus masters a sign, give him a treat and use a consistent success signal like a thumbs-up or clap. Smile. Gus is looking for visual signals. Use treats and progress slowly. Build on each success and practice patience. Even deaf dogs are capable of learning dozens of signs and recognizing the difference in your request for a ball or the leash. In my dog agility class, it was weeks before I realized that one of my classmates had a deaf Sheltie named Alva. I just thought that Dale was a quiet, soft-spoken person! But Alva heeds Dale’s hand signals and weaves through poles and dashes through tunnels with unspoken delight.
One word of caution with deaf dogs. Please keep Gus on a leash whenever you are walking or traveling and limit his off-leash play to areas that are safely fenced in. As an added safety measure, indicate on his tag that he is deaf and provide your name and contact information. A microchip is another good way to help you find Gus if he ever becomes lost.
