Crete
Traditional Cretan gateway
Crete has always been an island that captures the imagination, with some of the world’s finest ancient sites, including the palaces of Phaestos and Knossos. The birthplace of Europe’s oldest civilization, the enigmatic Minoan culture that flourished over 4,000 years ago, Crete was also ruled by the Romans, Byzantines and Venetians. Cretan resistance against occupation by the Ottoman Turks (1669–1898) and the Germans in WWII is legendary. The largest of the Greek Islands and the fifth-largest in the Mediterranean, mountainous Crete has a distinct culture and its own dialect. Its capital city is the cosmopolitan Irákleio, also known as Heraklion. Chaniá and Réthymno are its other two major towns, while the Samariá gorge is its top natural attraction.
Phaestos Palace
One of the great city-state palaces of the Minoan period, this fabulous structure lay hidden for over 3,000 years before being discovered by Italian archaeologist Frederico Halbherr in the late 19th century. The well-preserved sights include the grand staircase and the central courtyard (For further details see Phaestos Palace, Crete).
Palace of Knossos
Knossos was the capital of Minoan Crete and its palace was an architectural marvel. The original palace, dating from about 1900 BC, was destroyed by an earthquake but was quickly rebuilt. The remains were discovered and restored by Sir Arthur Evans in 1878 (For further details see Palace of Knossos, Crete).
Samariá Gorge
Magnificent Samariá gorge
Created over millennia by a river running between two mountains, the dramatic Samariá gorge is one of the longest and deepest canyons in Europe. Visitors can walk from the village of Omalós, along the 16-km- (10-mile-) long gorge to the coastal village of Agía Rouméli. Along the way are towering rock faces, springs and chapels, such as Ágios Nikólaos. The area became a national park in 1962, primarily to protect the rare kri-kri goat and its natural habitat.
- 44 km (27 miles) south of Chaniá
- 28210 67179
- Open mid-May–Oct: 7am–4pm daily (weather permitting)
- Adm
Irákleio
With a mixture of elegant Venetian mansions, busy streets, a harbour full of fishing boats and squares full of chic restaurants, tavernas and designer fashion shops, Irákleio is a traditional Greek city with a distinctly modern twist. It is Crete’s capital city and its administrative, commercial and cultural hub. At its heart is the pedestrianized Plateía Eleftheríou Venizélou, with the restored 13th-century church of Ágios Márkos. Must-see sights include the Archaeological Museum, which boasts the best collection of Minoan art in the world.
Irákleio Archaeological Museum
This magnificent museum houses the world’s finest collection of Minoan treasures. Among its exhibits are the famous Phaestos Disc found at the Phaestos Palace. Other exhibits on display are the Snake Goddess figurine and the Bull’s Head Rhyton, dating from the 16th-century-BC Palace of Knossos. The museum is undergoing renovation, with new rooms expected to open during 2013. A temporary exhibition houses the most important artifacts.
- 28102 79086
- Open noon–5pm Mon, 8am–3pm Tue–Sun
- Adm
Górtys Law Code
Chaniá
A sprawling fortified city in the foothills of the Lefká Óri mountains, Chaniá was the city-state of Kydonia in ancient times. Along with Phaestos and Knossos, it was one of the most powerful cities during the Minoan period. Decline was followed by renewed importance under the Venetians. Chaniá was the capital of Crete until 1971. Today, life in the city revolves around its scenic harbour and the historic Spiántza Quarter, with its Venetian houses lining cobbled streets, modern restaurants and art galleries.
Réthymno
With a well-preserved Venetian fortress, picturesque harbour famous for its 13th-century lighthouse, and fish tavernas, Réthymno is a refined holiday destination. One of its elegant Venetian mansions now houses the small Historical and Folk Art Museum. Along with Irákleio, Réthymno is home to the Crete University and a school of philosophy. Once the Greco-Roman city of Rithymna, it was important enough to mint its own coins. The town’s crest is based on one of these old coins.
- Historical and Folk Art Museum
- Vernadou
- 28310 23398
- open 9:30am–2pm Mon–Sat
- adm
Górtys
Thought to have been inhabited since Neolithic times, Górtys, or Gortyn, became the powerful capital of Crete, ahead of Phaestos, after the Roman invasion of 65 BC. Its power lasted until AD 7, when invading Arabs destroyed the city. The remains of its citadel and agora (market place), the praetorium (governor’s house), temples and a cemetery can be visited. A three-aisled basilica, Ágios Títos, dominates the entrance. The odeion (small theatre) ruins are famous for their inscriptions.
- Ágii Déka, Irákleio
- 28920 31144
- Open 8am–2:30pm daily
- Adm
Royal Villa at Agia Triada
Built during the Neopalatial period of the 16th century BC, this Minoan villa was one of the first palaces to be constructed in much smaller proportions than those of Phaestos and Knossos, which was the fashion of the day. Believed to be a summer residence, it consisted of two wings built to form an L-shape, with courtyards, staircases and workshops. Excavations revealed many artifacts, including clay seals and tablets with Minoan script. Other finds include a black stone harvester vase depicting Neopalatial art (For further details see Minoan Art) and a carved boxer rhyton jug, which suggest this was a palace of great wealth.
- 3 km (2 miles) west of Phaestos, Irákleio
- 28920 91564
- Open 10am–5pm daily
- Adm
- Special ticket available for the Villa and the Phaestos Palace
Palace of Malia
A little inland from the bustle of one of Crete’s most popular holiday hotspots are the archaeological remains of Malia, one of the island’s most prosperous Minoan cities. The palace, noted for its layout, was constructed around a courtyard with a central altar. It has raised paths, known as processional ways, leading to its west entrance. Inside there is a labyrinth of crypts that were probably used for cult worship. Important treasures unearthed here include the famous kernos, believed to be a vessel used for sacrifices.
- Malia, Irákleio
- 28970 31597
- Open 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun
- Adm
A Hike Along the Samariá Gorge
Have a hearty breakfast, pack plenty of snacks, a water bottle (which can be replenished in the gorge), sun cream and plasters before heading off on this approximately 6-hour trip. Wear light clothing but take a jumper as it can be cold at higher altitudes, and always wear a hat. You will need sturdy walking shoes.
Fully prepared, head for the village of Omalós. The best option, if you plan to hike the length of the gorge, is to go by bus because you’ll be tired going home, but if you intend hiking just a short distance and returning to Omalós, there is a car park. Opening times can vary according to the weather, so be sure to check. Aim to arrive early.
From Omalós, make your way across the plateau before taking a sharp descent down the snaking path known as Xylóskalo. It is around 2 km (1 mile) long. Follow the signposted route, which will take you past chapels like the tiny Ágios Nikólaos and Óssia Maria, which has some fine 14th-century frescoes. You will pass the deserted village of Samariá and a landmark spot known as Sideróportes, where the path considerably narrows between towering mountainsides. Heading down the gorge, you will pass by the old village of Agía Rouméli, before reaching the new Agía Rouméli on the coast, about 6 hours since you started. Take a ferry to Chóra Sfakíon, where there are buses.
Best of the Rest
Ágios Nikólaos
Overlooking the picturesque Mirabéllou bay, Ágios Nikólaos has grown from a small Venetian fishing village to a cosmopolitan holiday resort. In Hellenistic times it was a city known as Lato.
- Northeast coast
Siteía
This coastal village is surrounded by vineyards and is known for its quality Cretan wines. See its restored Venetian fort, now a cultural venue, its historic harbour and Victorian mansions.
- Northeast coast
Kastélli Kissámou
Often just called Kastélli, this quiet town with a handful of tavernas is a great base for exploring the unspoilt Gramvoússa peninsula. Nearby is the superb beach and ancient site of Falásarna.
- West coast
Amári Valley
Dotted with cherry orchards, traditional villages and chapels with outstanding frescoes, the Amári valley is a mountainous area of unspoilt beauty. It is dominated by Mt Ídi at 2,456 m (8,080 ft).
- Central Crete
Mátala
Mátala is a bustling holiday resort with a fabulous history. It is said to be where St Paul landed on Crete and where Menelaos, the husband of Helen of Troy, was shipwrecked.
- South coast
Paleochóra
Paleochóra’s landmark is the remains of a Venetian castle destroyed by pirates. The village stands on a headland that divides the beach in two. The resort is popular with windsurfers.
- West coast
Préveli
The site of two monasteries, the 18th-century Moní Préveli and the earlier Moní Agíou Ioánnou, Préveli is a small village reached via the Kourtaliótiko gorge. A steep path leads to its idyllic beach.
- South coast
Zákros
Located on the slopes of Mt Deléna, Zákros is an unassuming coastal village. It gained prominence in 1961 when the remains of a Minoan palace with priceless artifacts were discovered.
- East coast
Eloúnda
With its sandy beaches and coves, Eloúnda is a busy holiday destination. Site of the ancient city-state Olous, it was fortified under Venetian rule. An isthmus links it to the Spinalónga peninsula.
- Northeast coast
Spinalónga
This heavily fortified islet and one-time leper colony makes a dramatic sight from the ferries crossing from Eloúnda. Its been home to Olouites, Venetians and Ottomans.
- Northeast coast
Restaurants
Ristorante Italiano Veneto
Some of the finest pizzas, pasta, desserts and wines from Italy are served at this restaurant housed in a renovated 15th-century Venetian building.
- Zampelíou Street 8, Chaniá
- 28210 93527
- €20–€30
To Pigadi Restaurant
Tucked inside a 16th-century building at the foot of a fortress, this eatery specializes in Cretan dishes. Dine inside or in the courtyard.
- Xanthoudídou Street 31, Réthymno
- 28310 27522
- under €20
Remezzo Restaurant
On the water’s edge, this landmark restaurant serves great souvláki, juices and cocktails.
- El. Venizélou Square 16A, Old Port, Chaniá
- 28210 52001
- €20–€30
Dionysos
The long-established taverna overlooking the lake is a favourite with locals. Serving breakfast through to evening meals, it specializes in meat and seafood, influenced by Cretan and French cooking.
- Ágios Nikólaos lake, Ágios Nikólaos
- 28410 25060
- €20–€30
Belvedere Restaurant
With great sea views, this restaurant serves Cretan dishes, stifádo (stew) being its signature dish. An extensive wine list and Greek musicians complete the experience here.
- Ano Platanias, Chaniá
- 28210 60003
- €20–€30
Marilena Restaurant
Enjoy flambéed dishes, fresh fish and seafood or try Greek mezédes in this attractive taverna-style restaurant’s garden. In the winter dine inside by the fire. Entertainment includes dancers in traditional dress.
- Harbourside, Eloúnda
- 28410 41322
- €30–€40
Portes
Nestling under the city walls, Portes serves adventurous Greek cuisine, which sets it apart from its neighbours. Expect dishes such as pork fillets stuffed with chestnuts.
- Portou 48, Chaniá
- 28210 76261
- €40–€50
Pacifae Restaurant
Mediterranean dishes with emphasis on Greek cuisine are prepared by the chefs at this waterside eatery. International and Cretan wines are served.
- Ágios Nikólaos lake, Ágios Nikólaos
- 28410 24466
- under €20
Erganos Tavern
Designed to resemble a Cretan village house, this restaurant serves local classic dishes such as sarikópittes (cheese pies).
- Georgiádi 5, Irákleio
- 28102 85629
- under €20
Loukloulos
With elegant Neo-Classical surroundings, white linen and soft music, this is one of the foremost places to dine in Irákleio. The menu is Mediterranean.
- Koraí 5, Irákleio
- 28102 24435
- €40–€50
Bars and Cafés
Cosmos Piano Bar
A stylish venue overlooking the bay, this piano bar serves upmarket wines, cognacs and malts from a selection of around 300, along with gourmet delicacies.
- Páno Plataniás, Chaniá
- 28210 68558
Maleme Tavern Snack Bar
Pancakes and coffee are served for breakfast and light Cretan dishes, such as cheese pies and salad, through the day at this bar near the beach. Enjoy a cocktail in the evening.
- Maleme, Chaniá
- 28210 62049
Diamonds Night Club
This private club, a short distance from the centre of town, fits the bill for a more adult way to spend an evening, with a mix of low lighting, sultry music and exotic dancers.
- Káto Stalós, Chaniá
- 28210 84995
Kinimatografos Music Café
Open round the clock, this harbourside café transforms into a lively evening venue with cocktails and dancing.
- Old Venetian Port, Chaniá
- 28210 99293
Klik Scandinavian Bar
Every night is a party at the Klik for the young and trendy who dance to R&B, indie, hip-hop and rock. Cocktails, shots and snacks are served.
- Old Venetian Port, Chaniá
- 69459 32971
Rock Café
Enjoy drinks and cocktails to the sounds of R&B, rock and pop music at this dance venue. With light snacks and a house DJ, it is a great place to spend an evening.
- Ioánni Peticháki Street 1, Réthymno
- 28310 54325
Figaro Art and Music Café
Full of atmosphere, this super café has art on the walls, two courtyards with ivy-covered archways, fig trees, and a menu of tasty snacks, speciality coffees and fine wines.
- Vernádou 21–23, Réthymno
- 28310 29431
Fagotto Jazz Bar
Housed in a restored Venetian building, this bar is informal and a good place to meet friends. Its menu is chic and jazz is usually performed here live.
- Ángelou 6, Chaniá
- 28210 71877
Dwyer’s Irish Pub
This live music bar is located on a lovely beachfront terrace overlooking the bay. There’s food and drink all day, and live music every night.
- Beach Rd, Stalis
- 28970 33724
Rose Café Beach Bar
More than a beach bar, this venue offers a volleyball court, playground, swimming pools, watersports, sunbeds and an extensive choice of drinks and light meals.
- Adelianós Kámbos, Réthymno
- 28310 72776
Places to Shop
Ikaros
Set in a beautiful hilltop village, high above Plakias Bay, Ikaros has beautiful, unique jewellery, fashioned by silversmith Yannis. Pieces can also be made to the client’s own designs or specifications.
- Sellia
- 28320 31271
Gold Bees
With a range of gold and silver bracelets, necklaces and rings in both modern and traditional Greek designs, Gold Bees is known for its competitive prices.
- Adelianós Kámbos, Réthymno
- 28310 72876
Christie
Names such as Gucci, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana fill the shelves of men’s and women’s watches at this shop. Contemporary jewellery ranges feature gold, silver and gems.
- Arkadíou Street, Réthymno
- 28310 20405
Savoidakis Sweet Shop
Artfully presented chocolate and glyká koutalioú (candied fruit) confectionary are among the displays at this shop.
- Geronimáki 36, Irákleio
- 28102 28531
Kreta Gold
This jewellery store specializes in local handmade gold and silver necklaces, bracelets and charms, along with religious icons.
- Chálidon Street 17-71, Chaniá
- 28210 42623
Stamatakis Andreas
One of several branches in Chaniá, this bakery serves delicious handmade sweet and savoury pastries, cakes and chocolates. Do try its honey-drenched baklava or mini cheese pies.
- Selínou 128, Chaniá
- 28210 93822
Mystis Book Store
Both Greek and international books, many in bilingual editions, along with local music and maps of Crete are available here. Mystis has a store in Irákleio too.
- Chálidon Street 89, Chaniá
- 28210 92512
Creta Ceramics
The age-old craft of creating píthoi-style clay pots, vases and bowls is demonstrated at this delightful village workshop and shop.
- Thrápsano Pediádos, Irákleio
- 28910 41717
Idols Art
This workshop and shop specializes in recreated figurines from Crete’s Bronze Age. These handmade items make ideal gifts or souvenirs.
- Doríon 12, Irákleio
- 2810 373131
Cicada Gallery
With an eclectic range of stone sculptures, plaques and unique jewellery, this is a great place to buy contemporary and traditional Greek gifts of quality.
- Ágios Nikólaos Road, Eloúnda
- 28410 41684
Best Beaches
Falásarna Beach
One of the cleanest beaches on Crete, this long stretch of golden sand is lapped by turquoise sea. It is known for its magical sunsets. Nearby tavernas provide refreshment.
- West coast
Gramvoússa Peninsula
Along with Falásarna, there are many isolated and peaceful beaches and sandy coves dotting the coast of this unspoilt peninsula. Most are only accessible only by boat.
- West coast
Váï Beach
With its wild date-palm grove, perhaps Europe’s largest, and its golden sand dunes, Váï beach is among the island’s most beautiful.
- East coast
Amníssos Beach
The main beach of Irákleio is a stretch of golden sand with lots of charm. It is famous for having been the port of Knossos, and archaeological remains have been discovered here.
Siteía Beach
Awarded a Blue Flag for cleanliness, this sandy beach lines a deep horseshoe-shaped bay and is near the picturesque Siteía village. It is popular for windsurfing.
- North coast
Sísi’s Beaches
Sísi village has two beaches, one a secluded stretch of sand in the small Avláki bay and the other just off the harbour near tavernas and bars.
- East coast
Préveli Beach
The Kourtaliótis river meets the sea at Préveli, where the green river, blue sea, date palms and “Greek bamboo” (calamus reeds) create a tropical oasis feel.
- South coast
Stavros Beach
Tucked in a sandy cove, this unspoilt beach is best known as being one of the locations for the film Zorba the Greek. There are only a few small tavernas.
- North coast
Réthymno Beach
Although usually crowded because its main section is in Réthymno city, this beach is nonetheless beautiful. It is about 20 km (13 miles) long and dotted with palm trees and tavernas.
- North coast
Mýrtos Beach
Surrounded by citrus groves and banana plantations, the secluded beach of Mýrtos is an idyllic spot on the island. It is sandy, with a few pebbles.
- South coast
Islands and Islets
Gávdos Island
This cedar- and pine-covered island has the distinction of being Greece’s southernmost boundary. It has quaint villages and beaches. According to Homer’s The Odyssey, the nymph Calypso lived here.
- Off Sfakiá
Día Island
This island is a nature reserve for the rare Cretan goat, the kri-kri. It boasts excellent waters for swimming and snorkelling, coves to explore and a church to visit.
- Off Irákleio
Dragonáda Island
Remains of ancient habitation and early-Christian tombstones have been found on this island in the Dionysádes archipelago. Now uninhabited, it is covered with vegetation.
- Off Siteía
Koufoníssi Island
Characterized by its desert landscape of fine sand dotted with tamarisk trees, this deserted island has archaeological remains, now being excavated, that suggest it was inhabited in ancient times.
- Off Goúdouras
Chryssí Island
An island of volcanic rock and sand dunes, Chryssí is uninhabited. However, it has a well-preserved 700-year-old church, Ágios Nikólaos, an ancient port and remains from the Minoan period to explore.
- Off Ierápetra
Paximádia Island
Comprising two small rocky islets, Paximádia island was once named the Islets of Dionýsoi, after Dionysos, the god of wine. Today, they are a popular boat-trip destination from Mátala.
- Off Mátala
Elafoníssi Islet
Reached by crossing a reef, this scenic islet is covered with trees and has beaches made up of tiny coral fragments, which give them a pinkish hue. It is surrounded by shallow aquamarine water.
- Off Paleochóra
Spinalónga Island
An imposing Venetian fortification dominates this lush island, making it a popular day-trip spot. Ferry boats dock at its picturesque quayside, allowing visitors to explore the island.
- Off Ágios Nikólaos
Gramvoússa Island
This small unspoilt island off the Gramvoússa peninsula is a habitat for wildlife. In Venetian times it was a key defense location. The former stronghold now attracts day-trippers in summer.
- Off Kastélli Kissámou
Psíra Island
This barren island traces its history back to Minoan times, when it was inhabited and lay off what is believed to have been a harbour lined with merchants’ homes.
- Off Ágios Nikólaos