Tortilla Española
SPANISH POTATO, ONION, AND EGG TORTILLA
MAKES ONE 10-INCH TORTILLA; SERVES 4 AS A MAIN DISH OR 6 TO 8 AS A SMALL PLATE
Tortilla may be Spain’s most iconic dish and it’s found all over the country. It looks like a frittata, but develops a unique richness with oil-cooked potatoes and onion. The potatoes become tender through a process that hovers somewhere between frying and poaching. Some will turn color, some not, but that’s fine as long as they become tender. The onions cook in the same oil and then both go piping hot into the eggs before cooking all together like a giant, thick pancake.
The amount of oil may seem excessive, but it’s crucial. The reality is that most of it doesn’t get absorbed, but the quantity below is needed to keep the potatoes submerged. You can strain any oil that’s left over—it’s delicious—and use it to cook anything else. I pour mine into a glass jar with a lid and keep using it until it’s gone.
All this may sound intimidating, but tortilla is really forgiving. As long as it browns well on the first side that hits the pan, it’s okay if it goes back in ugly after flipping. You can shove it into place and shape it by tucking in the edges with a spatula. As for the flipping itself, choose a board or plate that’s a little bigger than the skillet and easy for you to handle. Plates with a lip or rim are even better because they’ll keep the egg juices and oil from running out.
Tortilla tastes best at room temperature, making it the ideal do-ahead appetizer. It looks impressive plated whole then sliced to serve and playful when cut in squares and speared with cocktail picks. That’s how you’ll find it in tapas bars in Spain. Enjoy bites with sips of Oloroso sherry for a magical flavor pairing.
10 large eggs
1 cup blended oil
1½ pounds medium Yukon gold potatoes (about 4), peeled and cut into 1/16-inch slices, divided
Kosher salt
1 large yellow onion, cut into 1/16-inch slices
WHISK THE EGGS IN A LARGE BOWL UNTIL THE yolks and whites are incorporated. Heat the oil in a 10-inch-round, 2-inch-deep well-seasoned cast-iron or nonstick skillet over high heat. When the oil is hot, add half of the potatoes. Flip the potatoes on the bottom to prevent them from browning. Reduce the heat to medium and cover with a lid. Cook until a thin-bladed knife slides through the potatoes easily, 5 to 6 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the potatoes to the eggs, and stir in 1½ teaspoons salt. Repeat with the remaining potatoes, adding another 1½ teaspoons salt to the eggs when you add the second potato batch.
Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the oil and reserve. While the oil remaining in the skillet is still hot, add the onion and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, uncovered and stirring frequently, until the onion is extremely soft, 10 to 15 minutes. If it seems like it may burn, lower the heat. Transfer to the bowl with the eggs and potatoes. Stir until everything is well combined.
Return 2 tablespoons reserved oil to the skillet and reduce the heat to medium-low. Add the egg mixture and spread in an even layer. Cook until the underside is nice and golden, about 10 minutes. If the bottom starts to brown too much before the center starts to set, lower the heat. If the bottom isn’t turning golden even as the egg sets, raise the heat for a minute or two to get some color. Remove from the heat.
Loosen the sides of the egg mixture from the skillet by sliding a silicone spatula between the set egg and edge of the pan. You’re going to flip the tortilla now. Put on oven mitts and center a large cutting board or flat plate over the pan. Grab the sides of the pan and the cutting board together and flip them, then set them down on the counter. Lift off the pan and put it back on the burner. Carefully slide the tortilla back into the skillet with the pretty golden brown side facing up. Turn the heat to medium.
Run a silicone spatula around the edge of the tortilla, tucking in the edge and rounding it, so it looks pretty again. Cook until the underside is golden, 5 to 6 minutes, adjusting the heat as needed. The timing is going to vary. You can press it with your finger to test for doneness; it should have some give on top and not be super squishy. I never get the same tortillas at home every time. Sometimes I’ll hit that perfect runny moment, when the outside is set, but the very center stays wet. Other times, it will be set all the way though. It’s delicious either way.
Carefully slide the tortilla out of the pan onto a serving dish. Cool for 1 hour at room temperature. Tortilla Española is best served at room temperature.
