Paella de Verduras

VEGETABLE PAELLA

I wanted to create a paella that celebrates fall. During a trip to the farmers’ market, I gathered everything that looked good and turned it into a deeply satisfying vegetarian main course. The roasted garlic and caramelized vegetables mimic the depth of meat, as do mushrooms. You can skip the roasted garlic for sliced fresh cloves if you’re in a rush and still end up with delicious results.

20- TO 22-INCH PAELLA PAN (SERVES 10 TO 12)

2 heads garlic

1 ounce dried porcini mushrooms (1 cup)

6 cups water

15 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

2 pounds mixed mushrooms, such as cremini, shiitakes, and oysters, cut into 1-inch pieces

3 tablespoons kosher salt, divided

1 pound Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved

1 large acorn squash, peeled and cut into large chunks (4 cups)

1 medium eggplant, peeled and cut into large chunks (4 cups)

1 large onion, finely chopped

2 cups canned crushed San Marzano tomatoes

2 cups dry sherry wine

2 tablespoons pimentón (smoked sweet paprika)

½ teaspoon saffron threads

1 fresh or dried bay leaf

2 cups bomba, calasparra, or Arborio rice

6 sage sprigs

12 thyme sprigs

16- TO 18-INCH PAELLA PAN (SERVES 6 TO 8)

1 head garlic

½ ounce dried porcini mushrooms (½ cup)

3 cups water

7.5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1 pound mixed mushrooms, such as cremini, shiitakes, and oysters, cut into 1-inch pieces

1½ tablespoons kosher salt, divided

8 ounces Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved

1 small acorn squash, peeled and cut into large chunks (2 cups)

1 very small eggplant, peeled and cut into large chunks (2 cups)

1 small onion, finely chopped

1 cup canned crushed San Marzano tomatoes

1 cup dry sherry wine

1 tablespoon pimentón (smoked sweet paprika)

¼ teaspoon saffron threads

1 fresh or dried bay leaf

1 cup bomba, calasparra, or Arborio rice

3 sage sprigs

6 thyme sprigs

PREHEAT THE OVEN TO 325°F. CUT THE VERY TOPS off the heads of garlic, then place back over the garlic. Wrap tightly in foil, then bake on a rimmed baking sheet until very tender, about 1 hour. When cool enough to handle, discard the tops and squeeze the cloves out into a small bowl. If using the oven variation below, raise the oven temperature to 350°F. Otherwise, turn off the oven.

Bring the dried mushrooms and water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Cover, remove from the heat, and let stand for 30 minutes. Drain through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing on the mushrooms to extract as much liquid as possible. Reserve the mushroom stock and discard the mushrooms.

Prepare an outdoor grill that will fit your paella pan. If you have a standard round kettle grill, the handles of the paella pan may prevent the pan from sitting directly on the rack. It’s okay as long as the base of the pan is smaller than the grill grate. Heat enough wood or coals to completely cover the bottom of the grill until very hot.

Carefully place the pan on the grill and add 3 (or 1½) tablespoons oil. Heat until the oil and pan are very hot. Add the mixed mushrooms in a single layer and cook, turning once or twice, until nicely browned around the edges, about 5 minutes. Season with 1 (or ½) teaspoon salt, then transfer to a very large bowl. Repeat the same process with the Brussels sprouts, squash, and eggplant, using 3 (or 1½ tablespoons) oil each time and seasonings with 1 (or ½) teaspoon salt at the end of cooking. All of the vegetables can go into the same bowl.

Heat another 3 (or 1½) tablespoons oil and add the onion. Cook, stirring often, until soft, about 3 minutes. Season with 1 (or ½) teaspoon salt, then add the roasted garlic and tomatoes. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has evaporated and the tomatoes are starting to caramelize, about 10 minutes. Return all the vegetables to the pan.

Add the sherry and cook, stirring, until almost all of the liquid has evaporated, then stir in the pimentón, saffron, bay leaf, and mushroom stock. Bring to a simmer and stir in the remaining salt. Stir in the rice until evenly distributed around the pan. Make sure all the grains are submerged in the liquid. Scatter the sage and thyme on top.

Cover, with the grill vents open, and simmer until the rice is tender and the liquid has evaporated, 10 to 20 minutes. The cooking time will depend on how hot your fire is at this point and the type of rice you use. The bottom of the rice should be browned and crusty, too.

Wearing heavy-duty oven mitts, transfer the pan to a heatproof surface or very large cooling rack. Tent with foil and let stand for 10 minutes. Serve hot.

OVEN PAELLA: To make this in the oven, position a rack in the bottom of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Follow the instructions above and use a stovetop, straddling the pan between two burners, to sear the vegetables over high heat and sauté the onion and deglaze with the sherry over medium heat. After stirring in the rice and topping with the herbs, transfer to the oven and bake. If the bottom hasn’t developed a crust by the time the rice and beans are tender, return to the stovetop and set over high heat. Cook just until a crust forms, then tent with foil and let stand as above before serving.