Suquet de Arroz con Bogavante

SEAFOOD STEW WITH RICE, FISH, LOBSTER, AND MUSSELS

SERVES 6 TO 8

Stewier than paella, but not as thin as a soup, suquet hovers between light and hearty. Costa Brava fishermen created this with whatever they caught but knew they couldn’t sell, and cooked it into a soup with potatoes. My idea was to turn that soup into a rice dish similar to a classic arroz caldoso (soupy rice) and up it with lobster and mussels.

1 whole (1¼-pound) live lobster

1 whole (1½-pound) snapper or other firm white fish, scaled and gutted

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons canola oil, divided

2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

1 onion, chopped

2 ripe tomatoes, chopped

1 teaspoon tomato paste

½ cup dry white wine

1 leek, white part only, thinly sliced

1 celery stalk, chopped

1 carrot, chopped

1 fresh or dried bay leaf

4 saffron threads

1 cup bomba or Arborio rice

Kosher salt

20 mussels, cleaned, beards removed

1 teaspoon white wine vinegar

2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

CURL THE LOBSTER’S TAIL UNDER AND HOLD IT, along with its body, against a cutting board. Quickly insert a very sharp knife into the center of its head where it meets the body and swiftly bring down the blade between its eyes. Cut through to split the head in half. Twist off the tail and claws, then twist off the knuckles from the claws. Cut the tail in half lengthwise. Remove and discard the vein and digestive tract. Place the tail halves, claws, and knuckles on a dish and reserve in the refrigerator. Save the head to make the stock.

Remove and discard the gills from the fish head. Snip off the fins with kitchen shears and discard. Cut the fillets off the fish, then cut each fillet in thirds. Place on a dish and reserve in the refrigerator. Cut the bones in pieces and reserve, along with the head and tail, for the stock.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large stockpot over medium-high heat. Add the lobster head and fish tail, head, and bones. Cook until well-browned, then turn and cook the other sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl. Add 1 tablespoon oil and then the garlic. Cook, stirring, until golden, about 15 seconds. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add the chopped tomatoes and tomato paste. Cook, stirring often, until most of the liquid has evaporated and the tomatoes begin to caramelize, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and boil until almost all of the liquid has evaporated.

Add the leek, celery, carrot, bay leaf, lobster and fish heads and bones, and any accumulated juices. Add just enough water to cover the solids, about 6½ cups. Bring to a boil, stir in the saffron, then reduce the heat to low. Simmer for 20 minutes, skimming any foam from the surface. Strain through a sieve into a medium saucepan and keep warm over low heat.

Heat the remaining 2 teaspoons oil in a very large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the rice and cook, stirring, until toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the hot seafood stock and 1 tablespoon salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the rice is just tender, 10 to 20 minutes.

Nestle the lobster claws, knuckles, and tail halves and fish fillets in the rice. Cover and cook until the lobster and fish just lose their translucence on the outside, about 3 minutes. Scatter the mussels in a single layer on top and cover. Cook just until the mussels open and the fish and lobster are just cooked through, about 5 minutes. Gently fold in the vinegar and parsley and serve immediately.