Serves 4
Mayonnaise is practically a food group in the South. Alabama celebrates the Southern love of the condiment with a peppery concoction invented by Big Bob Gibson BBQ in Decatur called Alabama White Sauce, an anomaly in the predominantly tomato-based world of barbecue sauces. (Well, except for South Carolina, which is known for its potent mustard-based seasoning.) Drew Robinson of Jim ’N Nicks BBQ says he’s always thought of it as a sort of barbecue hollandaise. He says, “The eggy, tangy flavor with the heavy black pepper kick works well with smoked meats.” It’s fantastic for drizzling and dipping, but really steals the show when used for basting smoked chicken. A magic alchemy occurs while cooking, and the seemingly pedestrian dressing is transformed, rendering the poultry mahogany and golden brown.
You can either grill the birds outdoors for an extra bit of smoky flavor, or start them in a grill pan on the stove and finish in the oven. Chicken is most often used for this dish, but I have adapted it to use with Cornish game hens. Quail are also exceptionally delicious.
1 Combine the mayonnaise, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, garlic powder, black pepper, mustard, and cayenne in a medium bowl. Stir to combine. Reserve about ½ cup of the sauce for basting and set the rest aside for serving.
2 If using a charcoal grill, prepare a charcoal fire using about 6 pounds of charcoal and burn until the coals are completely covered with a thin coating of light gray ash, 20 to 30 minutes. Spread the coals evenly over the grill bottom, position the grill rack above the coals, and heat until medium-hot (when you can hold your hand 5 inches above the grill surface for no longer than 3 or 4 seconds). If using a gas grill, turn on all the burners to High, close the lid, and heat until very hot, about 500°F, 10 to 15 minutes. If using a grill pan, heat the pan over medium-high heat.
3 If cooking indoors, heat the oven to 350°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Place a rack over the foil and spray with nonstick cooking spray.
4 Meanwhile, spatchcock the hens (see method here). Brush both sides of the birds with the oil and season with salt and black pepper.
5 Place the birds skin-side down on the grill or grill pan and cook until seared on both sides, 3 to 5 minutes per side. If using the grill, move to a cooler part of the grill to cook over indirect heat; alternatively, transfer to the oven if cooking inside. Brush with the white sauce. Cook, basting generously with white sauce every 10 minutes or so, until the birds are golden brown, the juices run clear when pierced with a knife, and an instant-read thermometer registers 165°F when inserted into the thigh, 30 minutes total.
6 Place the birds on a clean cutting board. Using a large chef’s knife, halve each bird down the middle of the breasts and backbone, so that each half contains both white and dark meat. Serve the halves with the reserved white sauce on the side.