Serves 6 to 8
Every October just inland from Myrtle Beach in Loris, South Carolina, giant cast-iron cauldrons are pulled out of storage for the “Bog-Off.” Nope, there’s no swamp involved. A bog is a chicken and rice dish, and according to my friend cookbook author Nancie McDermott, a bog belongs in the family of dishes traditional in South Carolina known as pilau and perloo—meaty rice-centered main dishes with ancient Persian and South Asian roots. Why is it called a bog? Perhaps because it’s moist and boggy, or maybe because chicken gets all bogged down in the rice-and-broth goodness. As Nancie says, “It’s so good, nobody really knows or cares.”
Her passion is researching and celebrating traditional food in its cultural context, and her beloved subjects are two seemingly different places with much in common: the cuisines of Asia and of the American South. Nancie gained her Southern kitchen wisdom as a North Carolina native and her knowledge of Asian cuisine as a Peace Corps volunteer in Thailand. In honor of her multiple talents, I’m adapting her recipe for chicken bog from her book Southern Soups and Stews, and adding a congee-like Asian twist.
1 Cut three of the green onions in half lengthwise and smash them with the flat side of a knife. Slice the remaining two on an angle and set aside for garnish. Place the chicken in a stockpot with the three halved and smashed green onions, the carrot, celery, sliced ginger, and sherry. Add enough water to cover the chicken by 2 inches (about 16 cups). Bring the water to a rolling boil over medium-high heat. Skim off and discard any foam that rises to the surface. After 10 minutes, when the foam has subsided, lower the heat to maintain a gentle but visible simmer. Cook until the chicken is tender and the juices run clear when pierced with the tip of a knife, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
2 Transfer the chicken to a rimmed baking sheet and let rest until it is cool enough to handle. When the meat has cooled, pull it in large chunks from the bones and set it aside, discarding the skin and bones.
3 Meanwhile, strain the broth though a fine-mesh sieve, reserving the liquid and discarding the solids. Measure 8 cups of chicken broth, reserving the rest for another use. Clean the pot and return the broth to the pot; add the chicken meat, sausage, and rice. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and white pepper to taste. Place the pot over medium-high heat and bring it to a lively boil.
4 Reduce the heat to maintain a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is tender but not split, 30 to 35 minutes. Add the fish sauce (if using); taste and adjust for seasoning with salt and white pepper. Stir in the chopped ginger. The rice will thicken as it stands. Thin with reserved broth as necessary. Serve ladled into warm bowls and garnished with cilantro and the reserved chopped green onions.