Zuppa di orzo

Barley soup

For 6

400 g (14 oz) barley, soaked in hot water for 45 minutes

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 head celery, tender stalks and young leaves separated and roughly chopped

1 red onion, peeled and chopped

1 fennel bulb, chopped, green herb parts chopped separately

3 leeks, white parts no thicker than your thumb, chopped

2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped

2 small dried red chillies, crumbled

2 tablespoons each chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley and mint

4 fresh ripe tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped

2 litres (3.1/2 pints) Chicken Stock (see here)

Maldon salt and freshly ground black pepper

extra virgin olive oil (peppery new season estate-bottled is the best)

Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan then add the celery and onion and cook together until they begin to soften. Add the fennel bulb and leek and fry, stirring, until they begin to caramelise, about 15 minutes. Add the garlic and chilli, then, after 1 minute, the herbs, celery leaves and tomatoes. Stir to combine and slightly reduce, then add half the barley. Allow to absorb the flavours, then add half the Chicken Stock. Reduce the heat and cook until the barley is tender, about 30–40 minutes.

Cook the remaining barley in the rest of the stock for 30–40 minutes. Purée in a food processor and add to the soup. Season and serve with new oil. This soup should be thick and creamy.

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