Salt-roasted chicken wrapped in pancetta
For 6
3 small free-range organic chickens, about 1.1 kg (2.1/2 lb) each
Maldon salt and freshly ground black pepper
30 bay leaves, fresh if possible
3 lemons, washed, dried and pricked all over
500 g (18 oz) pancetta, thinly sliced
2 kg (4.1/2 lb) natural coarse sea salt
Preheat the oven to 180° C/350° F/Gas 4.
Wash each chicken well inside and out, and dry with kitchen paper. Season inside and out. Push half a handful of bay leaves into the cavities followed by a lemon. Push a few more bay leaves in with a slice of pancetta. Arrange the remaining pancetta, about 5 slices per bird, over the breasts, and tie to secure.
Place the chickens on their sides, side by side, in a large stainless-steel pan or casserole; they should fit snugly. Cover with the coarse salt, making sure that the salt packs down the sides, fills the spaces between each chicken and covers the breasts by at least 1 cm (1/2 in). Cover and put in the oven for 2 hours.
Test for doneness by breaking off a part of the salt crust and inserting the point of a knife into the leg – the juices should be clear and the meat moist but not pink.
Remove all the salt crust from the birds and brush off excess salt. Take the pancetta off the breast, cut the birds in half, and serve one-half per helping, with some of the pancetta and Salsa Verde (see here).