braised wild greens

erbette saltate

This recipe is suitable for any early spring greens. We use cime di rapa, especially when the flowering heads have barely begun to form; the large pointed-leaf catalogna chicory that looks like lush dandelion leaves; white and purple sprouting broccoli when the shoots are small and tender; Swiss chard leaves when first sprouting and the stalks are still small; the thin-leafed wild rocket, kale or mustard greens. Monk’s beard, which is an oddity here in the UK (called agritti in Italian), has thin spaghetti-like leaves with a salty earthy taste, and is delicious when combined with the bitter-sweet cime di rapa and peppery rocket.

for 6

250 g bitter chicory

250 g rocket

250 g Swiss chard

250 g cime di rapa or purple sprouting broccoli

Maldon salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

6 garlic cloves, peeled and finely sliced

4 dried red chillies, crushed

3 lemons, halved

Blanch the greens separately in boiling salted water, then taste for doneness. The rocket takes least time, about 3 minutes; the bitter chicory up to 8 minutes; the cime takes less than 5 minutes; and the chard will take up to 10 minutes. Drain the greens thoroughly. Roughly chop the larger leaves.

Heat a large thick-bottomed frying pan and add the oil, garlic and chillies. Allow the garlic to colour, then add the greens and toss together until all the leaves are coated with oil. This takes seconds. Generously season with salt and pepper, and serve at room temperature with lemon halves to squeeze over.