Citrus plays an important role in Italian cooking. The finely chopped rind is used for flavouring meat broths, and, combined with garlic and parsley, forms the classic gremolata. The juice is used for dressing salads, seasoning fish and flavouring sorbets, and the whole fruits and rinds are crystallised for use in cakes and ice-creams. Because of the frequent use of the skins in cooking, always try to buy organic lemons.
• Sicilian lemons These are thick-skinned, and are often sold with their leaves attached.
• Cedro lemons Large and sweet, these lemons have more in common with grapefruit in terms of size and skin. Inside is mostly white pith, which is the edible part, with very little flesh. This pith is sliced finely and eaten raw in salads. Whole fruits can be crystallised to be used in cassatas, panettone and panforte.
• Seville oranges Traditionally used for making marmalade, their juice is a delicious alternative to lemon juice for salad dressings. The lemon tart recipe in the first River Cafe Cook Book can be made using Seville oranges.