Spinach is traditionally served in Italy at room temperature, after having been lightly blanched in boiling salted water, drained and gently squeezed dry. It is then dressed with the best-quality extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper, and a piece of lemon. Some prefer their spinach with more lemon or less. On a trip to Rome, a chef told us that the only way to eat cold spinach is with just olive oil, salt and pepper, never lemon.
The Italian spinach variety we like most produces very broad round leaves, which are thick and fleshy, and a glossy green in colour. They are harvested and sold in clumps. When preparing spinach, reject any leaves that are yellow or limp. The stems of larger leaves must be removed before cooking. Spinach is often full of grit, and so needs to be washed carefully. Fill the sink with water and plunge in the spinach to release the dirt, which will settle on the bottom. Continue plunging, with clean water, until there is no more dirt at the bottom of the sink.