Melons are the first of the summer fruits to arrive, beginning in the warmth of May and continuing through July. On the Italian menu they are classically paired with prosciutto as an antipasto. For dessert, we like to combine them with Valpolicella or, when they are very ripe, make them into a sorbet.
The melons we use are melone di Apricena, or cantaloupe, the latter known as charentais in France. Charentais melons, although developed in Charentes, are mostly now grown in Cavaillon, thus the alternative name. These are the most readily available in Britain. The flesh is sweet, highly scented and deep orange in colour.
When choosing a melon, first smell it. If the aroma is too strong it will be over-ripe; no smell, and it is not ready. It should also give a little if pressed at the stalk end. The melon should be firm, with no soft spots. To be sure of one in its prime, weigh several in your hand and choose the heaviest.