peas

As soon as the pea has been picked from the plant, the sugars start turning to starch, so if you want to eat the sweetest peas, they must be extremely fresh. They should also be small, bright green and firm.

In Italy the best peas are the tiny sweet variety that grow on the islands in the lagoon around Venice. Their sweetness makes the traditional risotto of the area – risi e bisi – seem more like a dessert.

Choose peas with bright green pods that are juicy when snapped open. When podding peas, use two containers to separate the large from the small peas. Cook them separately, with a generous handful of fresh mint.

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