There are two varieties of samphire, both of which grow wild. Rock samphire is found on many shorelines and cliffs throughout Europe, and marsh samphire, the one that we use, grows in muddy salt-marshes by the sea. It is mostly sold by fishmongers. The alternative name for samphire is glasswort, which derives from the historic use of the plant in the production of glass.
The samphire season runs from June to September. The stems are soft, small and thin in the early part of the season, and grow more fibrous towards the end. As it grows by the sea, samphire has a salty, woody taste, and is perfect with fish. It is delicious boiled until tender and then dressed with olive oil and lemon juice.