summer squash

In September boxes full of summer squash arrive in the River Cafe, in different sizes, colours, shapes and textures. The freshness of a summer squash is indicated by its skin. Newly picked, they have a slightly furry texture, rather like a peach – pickers sometimes get rashes from this – but if the squash sit in a box for days, this will disappear and their skins will be shiny and tough. The following are the varieties we use.

• Patty pan squash, also known as scalloped summer squash, can be white or yellow in colour, with scalloped edges. They are very juicy and sweet, with a fresh flavour that almost explodes in your mouth. They should not be larger than a golf ball.

• Crookneck squash are yellow-skinned with creamy white flesh and a curved neck. Their taste is slightly denser, more nutty, and they are less juicy. They are ideal for grilling or roasting when sliced. Italian crookneck come earlier in the season and have a more earthy flavour.

• Rotondo di Nizza is a thin-skinned, yellow-fleshed variety with a slightly sharper flavour.