Pumpkins, of which there are many varieties, are usually classified as winter squash. They grow vigorously throughout the summer, often trailing on long-stemmed running vines, with huge broad leaves, bearing male and female flowers. The male flowers are picked when open and used in fritto misto; the female flowers produce the fruits that ripen on the vine. We like to grow pumpkins outside the restaurant every summer, mainly for the male flowers but also for the tips of the trailing vines which can be cooked like greens. The actual pumpkins rarely get big enough because of a lack of space for the rich soil that is necessary.
The varieties we have grown for us are Golden Hubbard, Crown Prince, Onion Squash, Butternut and Little Gem. Most of these are varieties that have deep orange flesh with a dense texture, and thick skins.
When ripe and ready to cook, pumpkins should have hollow centres and well developed seeds. The harvest is in October, but as they store well, the pumpkin season can last until January. When buying pumpkins, they should have unblemished skins and should be heavy, indicating ripeness.
We usually roast pumpkins cut into 2 cm slices and well seasoned, which concentrates the flavour, before using in soups, risottos and pastas.