There are many varieties of Italian olives and according to taste they are picked at different degrees of ripeness, which determines both flavour and style. Green olives are picked before they are ripe; purple when they are just ripe; and the black at full maturity.
Most olives are cured in brine, which must be rinsed off before using the olive. The flavour of the brine can be overpowering, so always taste olives before buying. Olives, usually the ripe black ones, can also be cured in oil, often combined with herbs, garlic and chilli. It is quite often the case that these additions, together with poor-quality oil, can obliterate the fresh olive taste. You can marinate olives yourself at home – use extra virgin olive oil and your own choice of herbs.
We choose to buy the small, oval, purplish olive from Liguria, called Taggiasche. It is brined for a brief period and has a light fruity taste with firm flesh. Niçoise olives are very similar.
Good preserved green olives, with that fresh olive taste and texture, are harder to find. We tend to buy them when we are in Italy. In the south, there is a fantastic choice.