Organic Free-range Eggs Buy eggs laid by free-range chickens that have been fed organically, on a diet of vegetables and grass, and have a dated laying stamp, which ensures that they are fresh.
Extra Virgin Olive Oil It is now possible to buy extra virgin olive oil that comes from a named estate and shows the date of the year that it was pressed. Tuscan oil is famous for its dense green colour and spiciness; Ligurian oil for its softer, fruitier flavours; Puglian and Sicilian oils have a more pronounced olive flavour and a richer, nutty taste as the trees have grown in a warmer climate.
Extra virgin olive oil changes, in the bottle, throughout the year. In November to January, when it has first been pressed, there is definitely a strong peppery taste. As the oil ages, this becomes softer.
Farro Farro, known as ‘spelt’ in English, is a type of hard wheat grown in Tuscany and Umbria and used in the distinctive soups of those regions. It should be soaked for 1–2 hours before cooking, although if you buy it where it is grown it may not require soaking at all.
To serve 6, soak 150 g farro in cold water for 1–2 hours. Drain it, then put into a medium saucepan and cover with fresh cold water. Bring to the boil, then cover and simmer until the farro expands and is al dente, about 20 minutes. Season with Maldon salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Lemons Lemons sold with some of their stalk and leaves attached are usually the freshest and the leaves are a good indication of freshness – they should be glossy and green. Choose thick-skinned, firm lemons that have a strong perfume and oily zest. It is particularly important to buy organic lemons as non-organic ones have usually been treated or coated with wax.
Pecorino Staginata A small hard cheese made with sheeps’ milk, this has a grainy texture with a flavour of grass and should be aged for at least six months. It comes from Tuscany, where it is made by Sardinians. It is often used to grate on pastas as an alternative to Parmesan.
Ricotta Salata This is a dry, salty cows’ and sheeps’ milk cheese, made in Puglia, Sardinia and Sicily. White in colour, it has no rind and its condensed hard texture makes it easy to grate.
Robiola Cheese This is a soft fresh mixed cows’, goats’ and sheeps’ milk cheese from Piedmont. It is very rich and creamy but with a sharp tangy flavour.
Salted Anchovies Whole anchovies, which have been preserved in salt in large tins or barrels then sold by the gram, should be used immediately. Once removed from the tin they will begin to oxidise and the flavour will be spoilt. The best fish are the largest, and they should be red in colour (rather than brown), stiff and not at all wet. Tinned anchovies in oil are no substitute.
To prepare, rinse the whole anchovies under a slow-running cold tap to wash off residual salt. Carefully pull the two fillets off the central spine of each fish and discard the heads. Pat dry and use immediately – or cover with lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil.
Salted Capers We always use capers preserved in salt. The small ones have the best flavour.
To prepare, rinse the capers in a sieve under a running cold tap for at least one minute. Taste to check if they are still salty. Leave to soak in a bowl of cold water for half an hour. Rinse again and use immediately, or cover with red wine vinegar.
Salt Cod Choose fillets cut from a very fresh whole cod.
To salt 1 kg fresh cod fillet, you will need about 1 kg natural coarse sea salt. Place a flat board on a slant (with a saucer underneath one end) inside a tray. Cover the board with a layer of salt about 1 cm deep. Place the fish on this, skin side down. Cover the other side of the fish with about 1 cm salt. Put in the fridge for from 24 hours to 5 days. Remove the salt by rinsing the fish under a running cold tap for 5 minutes. Then place in a bath of water for 6 hours, changing the water as frequently as possible. Dry and use as instructed in individual recipes.
Tinned Italian Plum Tomatoes Peeled plum tomatoes vary enormously in quality. The best are those that have been picked when ripe and preserved in their own natural clear juice. Try to avoid tomatoes tinned in thick tomato pulp and choose organic ones wherever possible.