Conclusion
One of the impressions you get in Detroit is that young people dominate the food revolution. That could be due to the fact that starting a small business based on food or beverage can be done on the cheap in Detroit, and this might appeal to younger entrepreneurs with limited funds; making sauerkraut requires only a clean space with minimal equipment. There’s seldom expensive machinery that requires lots of capital and experience to start working. But it’s clearly more than that; a lot of other occupations are cheap to get into.
What distinguishes the Detroit food movement is passion and vision—wanting to make an old, ailing city their own and a better place. Many others of all ages love Detroit, but those in the food movement see it differently and have the energy and desire to transform it. Their vision has become infectious, and changes really are happening.
In Detroit, the new food people, young and old, are idealists. Some are searching for the exquisite culinary experience that will last a lifetime—an incredible cocktail, the new taste of that sausage, a dessert remembered forever, an evening under the stars with friends or the aroma of slow-drip coffee.
Others form a different kind of idealist. They believe in the power of food to heal, make people come together, help others and make a neighborhood whole and healthy. Bakers can become rhapsodic over a warm, freshly baked loaf of bread, so simple and yet so powerful in its ability to change people. Urban farmers spend hours and hours growing organic vegetables out of rubble and abandoned streets—a living metaphor of renewal and new beginnings. Some people are using food as a way to rebuild a city by providing wholesome food, training, jobs or a chance to start their dreams of business to those who have seen none.
Some of these idealists are on a search for a past Detroit by making food they grew up with and loved. Some are finding and sharing their family heritage through cooking and bringing it to customers. Others are going to the roots of something simple, like pizza, and learning how it was originally made by hand in Italy—the tools, the care and the knowledge of making something as it was originally conceived. You hear all of them say, “You’ve got to taste this!”
Many of these pioneers are college graduates. Some have traveled the world and tasted authentic food of other countries. They have studied philosophy, art, literature, classical music and more, so why do they end up in Detroit in the food business? Asking this question brings out different answers. First, it’s a business that is challenging and sometimes exciting. It is their own and an expression of themselves, from the taste of the real gelato to the label on the jar. They are also part of a family of like-minded people. Among the food people in Detroit, there is competition, but it is a positive competition—everyone wants everyone to succeed and to bring great food and experiences to Detroit. Ultimately, it is Detroit. It is a city that needs their help, and they know this. Many come to the city from elsewhere. They are discovering the real Detroit—the legendary buildings, the reinvigorated Detroit River, the fascinating history and the seemingly intractable problems; above all, it is about the people and the community.
They believe that good communities begin with good food.