SHOPPING
What’s your recommendation? www.lonelyplanet.com/buenos-aires
SHOPPING
Despite a major drop in the purchasing power of the Argentine peso over the last few years, Buenos Aires’ citizens continue to shop as if there’s no tomorrow. Just a peek into the nearest mall on a weekend will make you wonder how people who seem to be making so little can spend so much. As the saying goes, ‘An Argentine will make one peso and spend two.’ And it’s not just an act of hedonistic consumerism, instead it’s seen as a social pursuit that allows you to look good while you’re doing it – after all, you never know who you’re going to run into.
Shopping can also be a family event, with many malls catering to children by offering special play areas and video arcades. Paseo Alcorta in Palermo has an especially large kids’ playground on the 3rd floor, while Mercado de Abasto in Once sports an excellent children’s museum and small amusement park complete with rides. Almost all modern malls also have multiplex cinemas and large food courts complete with fast-food outlets and ice-cream parlors. Some even offer health clubs, beauty shops and internet cafés. With these types of services families (and tourists) can easily spend all day at the mall.
There are plenty of areas to shop outside the malls as well. Calle Florida is a must for any tourist, even if you’re not looking to buy; it’s a multipurpose pedestrian strip that buzzes with shoppers, tourists, performers and commuters. As a large avenue, Av Santa Fe is a bit less pedestrian-friendly, but equally prominent as the city’s main service and shopping artery. San Telmo is the place for antiques, while Av Pueyrredón near Once train station is the place for cheap clothing. The largest concentration of jewelry shops is on Libertad south of Av Corrientes. For more on popular shopping strips, see opposite.
For the most unique and avant-garde fashions, Palermo Viejo is the place to be; you can browse for days along the many pretty streets in this charming neighborhood. Here, the city’s youthful and up-and-coming designers have set up shop alongside trendy boutiques and houseware stores (not to mention dozens of trendy restaurants). Not only are the fashions creative and beautiful, but compared to the US and Europe they’re an absolute bargain.
Finally, let’s not forget BA’s fun weekend street markets Click here. On a sunny weekend afternoon they’re a wonderful place to be, and you’ll have many to choose from. All have crafts or antiques stalls to browse through, and many also offer street performers and tango shows.
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OPENING HOURS
Store hours generally run from 9am or 10am to 8pm or 9pm weekdays, with many open for at least a few hours on Saturday. Many stores close on Sunday. Most shopping malls are open from 10am to 9pm or 10pm daily.
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TAXES & REFUNDS
Taxes are included in quoted or marked prices: what you see is what you pay. Some places, however, might add a surcharge (or recargo) to credit card purchases – ask before you buy.
If you buy more than AR$70 in merchandise from a store that displays a ‘Tax Free Shopping’ sticker, you’re entitled to a tax refund. Just ask the merchant to make out an invoice for you (you’ll need ID); upon leaving the country show the paperwork to a customs official, who’ll stamp it and tell you where to obtain your refund. Give yourself some extra time at the airport for this transaction.
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BARGAINING
As in other Western countries, bargaining is not acceptable in most stores. High-price items like jewelry and leather jackets can be exceptions at some places, especially if you buy more than one item. Ask politely if there’s a ‘descuento’ (discount). At street markets you can try negotiating for better prices; just keep in mind you may be talking to the artists themselves, who are trying to make a basic living. San Telmo’s antiques fair is an exception; prices here will usually be inflated for tourists, and you need to apply your bargaining skills to avoid being ripped off.
One thing to be aware of is whether you’re quoted in pesos or dollars. Most sellers quote in pesos, but a few unscrupulous ones switch to dollars after striking a deal. Make sure of your position if you have any doubts.
SHOPPING STRIPS
- Av Santa Fe between Scalabrini Ortiz and Av 9 de Julio (Map) – Almost 30 blocks of shops selling everything – especially clothes. Continues in Belgrano as Av Cabildo, with an even higher concentration of stores, movie theaters and fast-food outlets. Put on your walking shoes.
- Florida (Map) – A pedestrian shopper’s paradise, with souvenir stores, leather shops, clothing boutiques and plenty of services for both locals and tourists. Along with its little sister, Lavalle (also pedestrian), it’s the walking lifeblood of Buenos Aires’ downtown. Street vendors lay down their goods on blankets in the evening.
- Av Alvear (Map) – The Cadillac of shopping streets, ritzy Alvear has loads of upscale boutiques for your already overcharged credit card. International designers such as Louis Vuitton, Giorgio Armani, Nina Ricci, Bang & Olufsen, Hermès and Cartier share real estate with fancy art galleries and rich mansions.
- Calle Defensa (Map) – San Telmo’s antiques row is a magnet for tourists, especially on Sunday when the antique market is in full swing. Don’t expect rock-bottom bargains; international demand and an adjustment to devaluation have kept prices high, especially for the best pieces. Recently, clothing and other boutiques have mushroomed here.
- Av Pueyrredón between Avs Corrientes and Rivadavia (Map) – In the barrio of Once, Pueyrredón is packed solid with stores selling clothes, shoes, accessories, appliances, luggage and household bargains, while street merchants hawk watches and electronic gizmos. Goods are the cheapest in town, but quality is low.
- Calle Murillo 600 block (Map) – Located in Villa Crespo, Calle Murillo is the best place in town to snag a relatively cheap but high-quality leather jacket. This block is stuffed with leather factory shops selling jackets and accessories. Bargain like mad, especially if you’re paying in cash. One of the nicer (and pricier) shops is 666 by Murillo (Map;
4855-2024; Murillo 666). - Calle Aguirre outlets (Map) – The 800 block of this street is outlet row, with deals on shoes and clothes mostly. Ladies, check out the Prüne outlet (Map; 4776-8500; Gurruchaga 867) for stylish leather bags. There are also lots of other outlets on nearby Av Córdoba.
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THE CENTER
The main shopping street in the Center would be Florida. Every traveler to Buenos Aires will come across this heaving pedestrian street, lined on either side (and in the evenings, down the middle) with shops and vendors selling clothes, shoes, jewelry, housewares and cheesy souvenirs. Touts zero in on tourists, offering good deals on leather jackets and cambio (currency change). We’ll tell you now: you won’t find the cheapest prices on leather jackets here (try Calle Murillo instead, see above) and you should definitely avoid changing money on the streets (fake bills and other scams do exist).
EL ATENEO
Map Books & Music
4325-6801; Florida 340 & 629; 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, till 5pm Sat
Buenos Aires’ landmark bookseller stocks a limited number of books in English (including some Lonely Planet guidebooks) and also has a decent selection of music CDs. There are several branches within the city, including a gorgeous branch in the Gran Splendid (Map; Av Santa Fe 1860), an old renovated cinema. Hours vary by store.
BUENOS AIRES SPORTS
Map Camping & Outdoor Equipment
4326-4980; Viamonte 766; 9:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat
This large, modern store carries plenty of outdoor brand-name clothing, plus sporting equipment such as tennis rackets, camping gear and footwear. Several of its branches are in shopping centers such as Paseo Alcorta. Each store may carry different items.
MONTAGNE
Map Camping & Outdoor Equipment
4312-9041; Florida 719; 10am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-8pm Sun
This shop sells popular outdoor clothing that is stylish, good quality and made in Argentina. Choose from a small selection of tents, backpacks and camping gear upstairs. There are several other Montagne branches, including one in Barrio Norte (Map; Av Santa Fe 1780).
EL COLECCIONISTA
Map Music
4322-0359; Esmeralda 562; 10:30am-8pm Mon-Fri
This small place has an eclectic selection of jazz, blues, salsa, Celtic and symphonic rock CDs. It will buy used musical instruments, so trade in that guitar, drum or bandoneón (a kind of accordion) you’re tired of lugging around. Staff are knowledgeable and you can pick up the business cards of teachers offering guitar classes.
MUSIMUNDO
Map Music
4322-9298; Florida 267; 10am-9pm
With over 50 branches throughout the city, this is Argentina’s largest music retailer, offering both national and international selections. Listening stations make selecting the hippest CDs a snap. There are branches in the Microcentro (Map; Lavalle 925), Barrio Norte (Map; Av Santa Fe 1844), Congreso (Map; Av Corrientes 1753) and most shopping centers.
DARCOS
Map Shoes
4326-0232; www.darcostango.com; Suipacha 259; 10am-7pm Mon-Sat
Glittery, gleaming and gorgeous men’s and women’s dancing heels (all handmade) are sold here, good for swing, salsa, ballroom and, of course, tango. There’s even a small wooden floor in the back where you can try out your newly cobbled shoes. Fancy tango clothes are also available, and Darcos will ship outside Argentina. A few other tango shoe stores can be found within the same block.
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CONGRESO & TRIBUNALES
Congreso is where the city’s politicos hang out, and is not really known as a shopping destination. That said, Av Corrientes has many of the city’s discount bookstores among other things, and despite most books being in Spanish it’s fun to wander through them.
WILDLIFE
Map Camping & Outdoor Equipment
4381-1040; Hipólito Yrigoyen 1133; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat
If you’re looking to buy (or even sell) all manner of outdoor and camping equipment in a somewhat funky environment, this is it. Crampons, knives, tents, backpacks, climbing ropes, foul-weather clothing and military gear can be found at this somewhat musty-smelling place.
ZIVAL’S
Map Music
5128-7500; www.tangostore.com; Av Callao 395; 9:30am-10pm Mon-Sat
This is one of the better music stores in town, especially when it comes to tango, jazz and classical music. Listening stations and a big sale rack are pluses, and it’ll ship CDs, DVDs and sheet music abroad, too (check the website). There’s also a branch in Palermo Viejo (Serrano 1445).
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SAN TELMO
San Telmo has traditionally been Buenos Aires’ antiques neighborhood and still contains most of the city’s antique shops. In recent years, however, San Telmo’s popularity with tourists has attracted other kinds of stores. Fashion boutiques and houseware shops are moving in, changing the general feel on the streets. Locals fear that their beloved neighborhood might become another Palermo, but even with rising real-estate prices San Telmo is not likely to lose its authenticity or charm.
EN BUEN ORDEN
Map Antiques
15-5936-2820; Defensa 894; 11am-7pm
If you like sorting through endless shelves full of knickknacks like old jewelry, little medals, old lace, musty shoes and antique figurines, then this place is for you. There’s no real order to the place, so the name must be a joke of sorts – ask the owners, who go around Argentina gathering up the stuff they so haphazardly display.
GALERÍA CECIL
Map Antiques
Defensa 845; 10am-7pm Tue-Sat, till 8pm Sun
Walk past the café in front and wander around the tiny antique cage-stalls in the back; there are old clothes, lacework, crystal stemware, silverware, toys, chandeliers and ceramic vases. Across the street, Paseo del 900 is grungier and a great place to pick up a poster of Che Guevara.
GIL ANTIGUEDADES
Map Antiques
4361-5019; Humberto Primo 412; 11am-1pm & 3-7pm Tue-Sun
You won’t find any reproductions here, the owners claim. You will find lots of cool antiques in great condition, such as baby dolls, china plates, old lamps, feather fans, Jesus figures and huge glass bottles. Best of all is the basement – it’s absolutely stuffed full of amazing vintage clothing and accessories. Catherine Deneuve and Ferragamo (among many celebrities) have graced the aisles here.
HERNANI
Map Antiques
4362-4437; Defensa 1047; 11:30am-6:30pm
An old family business for generations, this very upscale antique store sells only top-drawer pieces. Grand old furniture, huge mirrors, giant urns, shiny chandeliers, rich tapestries and reproductions of famous statuary give this place a museumlike feel. Prices are in the thousands of (US) dollars.
IMHOTEP
Map Antiques
4862-9298; Defensa 916; 11am-6pm Sun-Fri
Come find the funkiest old knickknacks at this eccentric shop. Small oddities such as Indian statuettes, ceramic skulls, Chinese snuff boxes, precious stone figurines and gargoyles make up some of the bizarre trinkets here. Larger prize finds may include a boar’s head and slot machine.
APPETITE
Map Art
4331-5405; Chacabuco 551; 2-7pm Mon-Sat
To see what’s happening in the contemporary erotic art world, take a peek into this grungy, rough-and-tumble space – appropriately, an old meat-packing warehouse. It’s certainly not fine art, and you wouldn’t want it to be – instead, expect fantasy, sexual and sometimes violent themes. For more on this, head around the corner to its sister gallery, Tanto Deseo (Venezuela 638).
WALRUS BOOKS
Map Books
4300-7135; Estados Unidos 617; 10am-8pm Tue-Sun
Run by an American photographer, this is probably the best English-language bookstore in Buenos Aires. New and used literature and nonfiction books line the shelves at this neat and well-organized place, and there’s a good Latin American section. Quality used books in very good condition are bought as well.
L’AGO
Map Boutique
4362-4702; Defensa 970; 10am-7:30pm
For an artsy, funky shopping experience, head past the creative window displays at this hip boutique and check out the eclectic lighting, plastic kewpie dolls, recycled Elvis wallets and Marilyn Monroe handbags. It’s slightly retro-themed, with the occasional kitschy gem or handmade treasure – and every time you visit there’s something new.
MATERIA URBANA
Map Boutique
4361-5264; Defensa 707; 11am-7pm Tue-Sun
There’s stuff here you probably won’t find anywhere else; over a hundred artists are represented in four simple rooms at this upscale, 2nd-floor boutique. One-off paintings, jewelry, carved wood statuettes, leather animal organizers, clothes and many other unique crafts. Worth the climb upstairs for a look.
MOEBIUS
Map Fashion
4361-2893; Defensa 1356; 10:30am-1:30pm & 3-8:30pm Tue-Sat, noon-8:30pm Sun
Another fun store to wander through, Moebius represents around 15 BA designers. Highly original bags, ‘ugly’ dolls, retro-themed knickknacks and ingeniously designed women’s clothes are highlights, but you’ll never know exactly what you’ll find. Look for recycled-material items, as those are always the most fun.
PUNTOS EN EL ESPACIO
Map Fashion
4307-1742; Perú 979; 11am-8pm
With 43 designers represented, this large store is a good place to check out many styles at once. Each designer has his or her own prominent rack space, with their names posted above their creations. Un-usual displays include a trendy rain-gear section and purses made from LP records. It stocks a few shoes and kids’ items, too.
TRANQUILA, CORAZÓN
Map Fashion
4362-8847; Perú 1092; 11am-8pm Tue-Sun
The best thing about this boutique is that it actually caters to women who are larger than the petite BA norm. The Argentine fashions focus on flattering colorful patterns and designs that are fun to wear. A few men’s and kids’ items are also available, along with lingerie and cool accessories.
UN LUGAR EN EL MUNDO
Map Fashion
4362-3836; Defensa 891; 10:30am-8pm
Lots of fun, young and creative designs (all from Argentine artists) line the racks at this clothing boutique. They’re mostly women’s cutting-edge styles, utilizing thin fabrics and colorful patterns in clingy tops that draw attention. Accessories such as patent-leather zipper shoes and vinyl retro bags are also available.
CALMA CHICHA
Map Housewares
4831-1818; Defensa 856; 10am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-8pm Sun
A fun place to browse for creative and well-designed household items. It’s big on leather, from a variety of butterfly chair styles to brightly colored cowhide rugs and stylish leather bags. Penguin pitchers, flowery plastic tablecloths and thick sheepskins are more fun items to check out. Also in Palermo at Honduras 4925.
CUALQUIER VERDURA
Map Housewares
4300-2474; Humberto Primo 517; noon-8pm Thu-Sun
Located in a lovely, refurbished old house, this fun store sells eclectic items from vintage clothing to entertaining soaps (look for these in the ‘bathroom’) to recycled floppy-disc lamps to contemporary knickknacks and novelty toys. Wander through the outdoor patio and note the stained-glass windows on the wall and mate-drinking Buddha above the fountain.
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RETIRO
Retiro has a mix of shopping possibilities. It’s an expensive neighborhood, and so claims a good share of the city’s upscale leather shops and art galleries. But it also serves the downtown business and tourism sector, with a mix of bookstores, outdoor clothing stores, and souvenir and wine shops.
GALERÍA RUTH BENZACAR
Map Art
4313-8480; www.ruthbenzacar.com; Florida 1000; 11:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10:30am-1:30pm Sat
The first contemporary art gallery in BA, this underground space (access downstairs) is supremely well-located right at the head of pedestrian Florida. Internationally known Argentine artists that have graced the walls here include Leandro Erlich, Jorge Macchi, Flavia Darin and Nicola Costantino. Just show up and have a look around.
KEL EDICIONES
Map Books
4814-3788; MT de Alvear 1369; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-1:30pm Sat
It’s mostly books in English that you’ll find lining the shelves in this bookstore. Subjects include literature, travel, cooking, philosophy, art, history and religion, along with novels and dictionaries. You might find Lonely Planet guides lining the shelves as well.
CAMPING CENTER
Map Camping & Outdoor Equipment
4314-0305; Esmeralda 945; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat
This modern store carries new, high-quality camping and mountaineering equipment, rock-climbing gear and general backpacking products. There’s also plenty of expensive, outdoor brand-name clothing from the USA.
KELLY’S REGIONALES
Map Crafts & Textiles
4311-5712; Paraguay 431; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat
If you’re looking for that perfect cowhide to throw over your sofa or a cutting-edge Mapuche poncho to wear with your miniskirt, you’ll probably find it here. There are animal masks and alpaca knives from Salta along with neat Argentine cultural symbols such as mate (a popular tea in Argentina) gourds, but plenty of cheap souvenir knickknacks also line the shelves.
GABRIELLA CAPUCCI
Map Fashion
4815-3636; Av Alvear 1477; 10am-8pm Mon-Sat
It’s certainly not for everyone, but this girly boutique is unlike other stuffy ones on this upscale street. All-original sequined T-shirts, creative handbags, wispy scarves, vintage tops, velvet pillows and eclectic accessories fill this small space. Crocheted flowers, huge beads and fake pink orchids decorate camouflage, satin and animal prints. Colors are bright and the costume jewelry is wild.
MARÍA VÁZQUEZ
Map Fashion
4815-6333; Libertad 1632; 11am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat
One of the better-known Argentine designers, María Vázquez creates lingerielike cocktail dresses in thin silks, lacy cotton and smooth satin. Details such as beads, sequins and glitter add a catchy sheen to her sexy productions, which also include signature jeans. Celebrities such as Shakira, Xuxa and Naomi Campbell have claimed her threads. There are other branches in shopping malls around town.
STREET MARKETS
- Feria Artesanal (Map; Plaza Intendente Alvear; 10am-7pm) Located in Recoleta, this is probably BA’s most popular street fair, with hundreds of booths selling leather accessories, jewelry, hats, handmade crafts, kitschy souvenirs and dozens of other creative goods. Hippies gather, bakers circulate their pastries and mimes perform (or just stand very still). It’s much bigger on weekends.
- Feria Artesanal (Map; cnr Caminito & Mendoza; 10am-6pm Thu-Sun) Tango themes dominate the goods at this small and lively crafts fair, giving La Boca even more color than usual. Tango dancers and buskers compete for your attention, and along Caminito itself are many drawings, paintings and pictures to buy.
- Feria de Anticuarios ( 4743-8371; www.delanticuario.com; Estación Las Barrancas; 9:30am-8pm Sat, Sun & holidays) This cute antiques market, in the northern suburb of Acassuso, has goods cheaper than the San Telmo fair and it’s also smaller and less crowded. Dig through old silverwork, records, books, small collectibles, lighting fixtures and antique hardware. The best way here is on the Tren de la Costa, which begins in Olivos at Estación Maipú; get to this train station from downtown via buses 59, 60 and 152 (or take the regular Mitre train line to Tren de la Costa).
- Feria de Mataderos (Map; 4323-9532; www.feriademataderos.com.ar; cnr Avs Lisandro de la Torre & de los Corrales; 11am-9pm Sun & holidays Apr-Nov, 6pm-midnight Sat Dec-Mar) In the working-class barrio of Mataderos is this excellent folk market. Merchants offer handmade crafts, cheap parrilladaI (mixed grill) and tasty sweets. Folk singers, dancers and gauchos on horseback entertain, and there’s a nearby gaucho museum ( 4687-1949; Av de los Corrales 6436; admission AR$2; 12-6:30pm Sun Mar-Dec). From downtown, take bus 155 (also marked 180) or 126; the market is about an hour’s ride away, but worth it. Call ahead in between seasons to make sure it’s open.
- Feria de San Telmo (Map; Plaza Dorrego; 10am-5pm Sun) Tourists and locals alike flock to this nearly overdone feria (fair)– you’ll find jewelry, artwork, vintage clothing, collectibles and much, much more. Tango shows, buskers and mimes entertain, while sidewalk cafés provide welcome breaks. Because of these crowds, Calle Defensa is cut off to traffic from Av Belgrano to Parque Lezama, where there’s a simple weekend crafts market. There are also occasional live bands and drumming parades.
- Feria Plaza Belgrano (Map; Plaza Belgrano, cnr Juramento & Cuba; 10am-8pm Sat, Sun & holidays) Belgrano hosts a pleasant neighborhood market that’s great on a sunny weekend. You’ll find high-quality imaginative crafts, as well as some kitschy stuff. The performers and tarot readers draw a crowd, too.
- Feria Plaza Serrano (Map; Plaza Serrano; 11am-7pm Sat & Sun) Costume jewelry, hand-knit tops, funky clothes, hippie bags, creative slumped glass and leather accessories fill the crafts booths at this popular fair on fashionable Plaza Serrano in Palermo Viejo. It’s not large, but the nearby fashions and trendy bars and restaurants can easily fill the rest of your lazy afternoon.
CASA LÓPEZ
Map Leather Goods
4311-3044; www.casalopez.com.ar; MT de Alvear 640/658; 9am-8pm
Start up the limousine and make sure there’s enough room for some of BA’s finest selection of quality leather jackets, luggage, bags and accessories. Service is almost too attentive, so be prepared to chat. Other branches are located in Galerías Pacífico and Patio Bullrich.
WELCOME MARROQUINERÍA
Map Leather Goods
4312-8911; MT de Alvear 500; 10am-2pm & 3-5:30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat
Going strong since 1930, this upscale shop claims to be the oldest leather goods company in Argentina. Handmade, exclusively designed luggage, briefcases, handbags, accessories and a small selection of both men’s and women’s shoes are available. Quality is very high, as are prices.
GALERÍA 5TA AVENIDA
Map Shopping Mall
Av Santa Fe 1270; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat
Those looking for secondhand clothing (heavy with vintage overtones) need to make an obligatory stop at this old shopping mall. Used funky wearables are sold here at several shops, and prices are relatively fair for even the grungiest backpacker. Find the bargain racks for the best deals, though some selections are for the desperate only.
PATIO BULLRICH
Map Shopping Mall
4814-7500; Av del Libertador 750; 10am-9pm
Buenos Aires’ most exclusive shopping center once hosted livestock auctions, but these days it tends toward sales of Persian rugs, double-breasted tweed suits and Dior’s latest designs. Three floors hold fine boutiques such as Lacoste, Lacroix and Versace, along with fancy coffee shops, a cinema complex and a food court.
LA MARTINA
Map Sporting Equipment
4576-7999; www.lamartina.com; Paraguay 661; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat
Polo is the ultimate high-class sport in Buenos Aires, so go ahead and flaunt your exclusivity by picking up the finest quality leather riding boots, a pithy pith helmet, several polo mallets and a saddle or two. It’s Argentina’s premier polo store and an awesome wander through, even if you don’t own a horse.
WINERY
Map Winery
4311-6607; Av Leandro N Alem 880; 9am-8:30pm Mon-Sat
One of several slick chain stores that offer a large selection of Argentine wines. Some branches have attractive wine bars where you can taste certain selections; at this location sample up to 20 different wines by the glass (five for AR$30). The café and wine shop are upstairs, the modern lounge-restaurant downstairs. There’s another branch with just a café in the Microcentro (Map; Av Corrientes 300).
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RECOLETA & BARRIO NORTE
Exclusivity is the key word here. If you have the bucks and are willing to pay top dollar for the best quality goods, then you’ll want to shop in these neighborhoods. The city’s best leather shops are based here, along with a few top fashion boutiques and a handful of international names such as Armani, Cartier, Hermés and Versace.
LÓPEZ TAIBO
Map Leather Goods
4804-8585; www.lopeztaibo.com; Av Alvear 1902; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat
Absolutely the best leather goods can be found at this Recoleta boutique, offering excellence and tradition since 1897. The good-looking, black-clad staff offer attentive service to the well-dressed businessman or traveler searching for shoes, belts, jackets, briefcases and – for those who can take it – fur.
ROSSI & CARUSSO
Map Leather Goods
4814-4774; www.rossicaruso.com; Av Santa Fe 1377; 9:30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat
More fine leather goods line the shelves at this upscale shop. Choose from fancy boots, belts, bags, saddles, gaucho knives and the occasional silver mate vessel. All are made from Argentine materials, and most are exclusive designs. Expect professional service and sky-high prices. Other BA branches include one in Galerías Pacífico.
GUIDO MOCASINES
Map Shoes
4813-4095; Rodríguez Peña 1290; 9:30am-7:30pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am-1pm Sat
Men have been coming to Guido’s for over 50 years, buying some of the highest-quality hand-made shoes in the country. Styles are a bit conservative, but they’ll make your feet the best-dressed at the office. There are a few women’s shoes, as well as some bags and belts. Another branch (Map; Av Quintana 333) lies nearby.
PERUGIA BOTTIER
Map Shoes
4804-6340; Av Alvear 1866; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat
In business for 50 years, this is one of Buenos Aires’ finest women’s shoe stores. The European-inspired designs are made from both Argentine and Italian leathers, and change seasonally. Shoes are handmade and take 10 days to finish; it costs about AR$650 a pair. An annex with different designs is two doors away.
BUENOS AIRES DESIGN
Map Shopping Mall
5777-6000; Av Pueyrredón 2501; 10am-9pm Mon-Sat, noon-9pm Sun
The trendiest and finest home furnishings are all under one roof here. This is the ideal place to look for that snazzy light fixture, streamlined toilet or reproduction Asian chair. Also good for everyday appliances and housewares, along with cute décor and a few knickknacks.
GALERÍA BOND
Map Shopping Mall
Av Santa Fe 1670; 10am-9pm Mon-Sat
For the edgiest tattoos and piercings in town, you can’t beat this grungy shopping center. Buenos Aires’ skateboarder-wanna-bes, along with their punk rock counterparts, also come here to shop for the latest styles and sounds. Expect everything from Hello Kitty to heavy metal.
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PALERMO
Palermo Viejo, a large sub-neighborhood of Palermo, is a fashionista’s shopping paradise. In the last few years, BA’s hottest new designers have opened storefronts here to show off their creations – and, for the most part, they have good taste. Be warned, however; sizes cater to porteño proportions, which generally means pretty damn thin (at least for women).
Much as cutting-edge clothes are the main commodity here, there are plenty of other things to spend your loot on. There are stores selling shoes, housewares, furniture, books, stationery, soaps, candles, souvenirs, kids’ toys and even chocolate. It’s easy to spend hours or even days shopping here, and it’s so much fun you should definitely make it part of your sightseeing circuit.
MERCADO DE LAS PULGAS
Map Antiques
cnr Álvarez Thomas & Dorrego; 10am-7pm Tue-Sun
This dusty and dim covered flea market sells antiques – precious things such as old furniture, glass soda bottles, ceramic vases, paintings, bird cages, elegant mirrors and metal garden furniture. While currently located a block north of Thomas & Dorrego, in the future should return to its old premises (address listed above).
BOUTIQUE DEL LIBRO
Map Books
4483-6637; Thames 1762; 10am-10pm Mon-Thu, till 11pm Fri, 11am-11pm Sat, 2-10pm Sun
Take a break from all that shopping at this little sanctuary, and glance through a book or two. If you don’t read Spanish there are a couple of shelves with quality English titles, and the café in back (with cute outside patio) is a perfect excuse for a sit-down.
LA MERCERÍA
Map Boutique
4831-8558; Armenia 1609; 11am-8pm Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm Sat, 1-8pm Sun
Attracting crowds of giggling ladies on a busy weekend, this boutique is stuffed full of bright and colorful accessories like costume jewelry, pillows, scarves, belts, perfumes and lots of handbags. Huge hats, over-the-top and perfect for racetrack parties, are a highlight. Frilly, glitzy and for those who want to show them off.
RECURSOS INFANTILES
Map Children’s
4834-6177; Jorge Luis Borges 1766; 3-8pm Mon, 8am-8pm Tue-Sun
Small but fun, this kids’ store offers some pretty unique toys – and all are made in Argentina. There are your typical stuffed animals, wood toys and puzzles, plus other cool stuff such as miniature puppet theatres and unique handmade instruments. Books in Spanish and a small rack of cute clothes keep moms busy, and a tiny café on the premises caters to hungry little bellies.
OWOKO
Map Children’s
4502-9905; El Salvador 4694; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat, 3-7pm Sun
The best part at this kids’ clothing store is when you check out. Every purchase comes with a free story booklet about Planet Owoko and its colorful characters, who are (conveniently) immortalized on cute T-shirts, pants or accessories. A new book comes out each season, as does a new lineup of darling clothes.
ATÍPICA
Map Crafts & Textiles
4833-3344; El Salvador 4510; 2-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat
CLOTHING SIZES
Run by a mother-and-daughter team, this tiny shop stocks crafts from local and northern Argentine artists who use indigenous techniques for their works. All are handmade and unique, and include picture frames, wall hangings, mask replicas, gourd bowls, small boxes, textiles and jewelry. Quality is high and prices fair.
MISSION
Map Crafts & Textiles
4832-3285; Pasaje Russel 5009; 10am-10pm
Tucked into a side street near Plaza Serrano is this small shop with Argentine-made crafts and souvenirs. It’s a good place to pick up some gaucho knives, a leather belt, a mate set or some flattened wine bottles for dad. Or you might go for the cowhide pillow covers or a full cowhide rug. Quality is high.
BOKURA
Map Fashion
4833-4587; Gurruchaga 1686; 11am-8:30pm Mon-Sat, 3:30-7:30pm Sun
Look no further for the latest hipster threads. Catering to young men, this funky store carries stylish denim jeans with trendy patches and that ‘used’ look, along with retro-designed T-shirts and classic-line sweaters. The store itself is worth a peek, as it features Asian decor and amazing tile accents.
BOLIVIA
Map Fashion
4832-6284; Gurruchaga 1581; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat, 3-8pm Sun
There’s almost nothing here that your young, hip and possibly gay brother wouldn’t love, from the striped cut-off cowboy shirts to the floral Puma sneakers to the Mexican-bag-fabric plastic belts. Metrosexual to the hilt, and paradise for the man who isn’t afraid of patterns, plaid or pastels.
EL CID
Map Fashion
4832-3339; Gurruchaga 1732; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat
Some of the finest men’s threads can be found at this Palermo Viejo boutique, which highlights Nestor Goldberg’s designer shirts, pants, jackets, accessories and jeans. Materials are of the highest quality, and tailoring is classy, hip and casual.
HERMANOS ESTEBECORENA
Map Fashion
4772-2145; El Salvador 5960; 11am-1pm & 1:30-9pm Mon-Fri, 11am-9pm Sat
The Estebecorena brothers apply their highly creative skills toward smartly designed tops, jackets that fold into bags, polo-collar work shirts and even supremely comfortable, nearly seamless underwear. The focus is on original, highly stylish, very functional men’s clothing that makes the artsy types swoon. Selection is limited, but what’s there really counts.
JUANA DE ARCO
Map Fashion
4833-1621; El Salvador 4762; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat, 1-8pm Sun
Mariana Cortes has designed adorable bits of fabrics sewn into girly sets that would be best showcased during a pillow fight. Brightly colored T-shirts, button belts and boxer shorts are other choices, and G-strings can be bought creatively packaged in egg cartons. Great fun for underwear fans, but be warned they’re available in tiny sizes only.
NADINE ZLOTOGORA
Map Fashion
4831-4203; El Salvador 4683; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat
Nadine Z’s gorgeous dresses and tops combine feminine styles with nearly dreamy fabrics, creating fantastically romantic wearables. Thick and billowy base textiles, often in natural colors and floral prints, are layered with lacy tulle and silky edging – a feast for the eyes as well as the skin.
OBJETO
Map Fashion
4834-6866; Gurruchaga 1649; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat
Rodrigo Abarquero and Debora Di Stilio display some of the wackiest, most outrageously fun clothes in this tiny boutique. Wear them to parties and everyone will ask ‘where did you get that?’ Outfits are less frilly and more substantial than most of their porteño designer colleagues – think of dresses with multiple patterns accented with cartoons or silhouetted figures. Creative and unconventional works of art.
RAPSODIA
Map Fashion
4832-5363; El Salvador 4757; 10am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-9pm Sun
With fabrics from linen to leather, street casual to sequins, this larger boutique shop is a must for fashion mavens. Old and new are blended with exotic twists into creative styles with hipster, gypsy and even military accents. There are also cutting-edge jeans, wild bikinis and a small kids’ section, plus sofas to rest your weary feet.
SABATER HERMANOS
Map Fashion
4833-3004; Gurruchaga 1821; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat, 1-7pm Sun
Step into this little storefront and let both your eyes and nose be entertained by rows and rows of deliciously scented soaps. Bars of various shapes and sizes come in flavors like chocolate, green tea, rose, lavender, strawberry and lime (our favorite). A special and unique gift for mom would be the soap ‘leaves’ – small slivers of soap for one-time use. Cute kids’ soaps too.
SALSIPUEDES
Map Fashion
4831-8467; Honduras 4814; 10:30am-9pm Mon-Fri, 10:30-8pm Sat
This is the place to get that unique party dress. A mix of frilly, romantic colors, patterns and textiles are flowing and feminine, and many dresses come with delicate spaghetti straps. Hip, creative styles are fun to try on.
SIX FEET
Map Fashion
4773-1758; Gurruchaga 1285; 10am-8pm Mon-Sat
Urban skater fashion has hit BA hard at this sporty hipster’s boutique heaven. Slip into a pair of reversible shorts, trendy stenciled T-shirt or Vans-type shoes. Quality is high and the designs are well thought out. It’s all men’s clothing, though tough chicks wouldn’t look bad in some of these fashions, either. Check out the outlet down the street at Gurruchaga 1653.
CAPITAL
Map Housewares
4834-6555; Honduras 4958; 10am-8pm Mon-Sat
There’s nothing you really need at this super fun knickknacks store – unless it’s that very creative recycled purse (made from soda can pop tops) or that stringy but hip wet-dog-looking rug. Sexy female anarchists should stock up on the Che Guevara bikini. Needless to say, this spot is a great wander through with friends.
925 GALERÍA
Map Jewelry
4833-5343; Honduras 4808; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat
For showy, ‘look-at-me’ jewelry, there’s this small but shiny storefront. Inside, thick silver bracelets with glittery faux diamonds and semiprecious stones will tempt the princess in you, as will the dinner plate–sized rings. All pieces, from earrings to necklaces, are unique. Classes in jewelry-making available as well.
28 SPORT
Map Shoes
4833-4287; Gurruchaga 1481; 11am-1:30pm, 2:30-8pm Mon-Sat
For the retro-sports fanatic, there’s nothing better than this unique shop. Focusing on only one product and one style – men’s ’50s sport-style shoes – the cobblers here can concentrate on quality and craftsmanship. Inspiration comes from football, boxing and bowling shoes, and only 12 pairs of each design are produced. Prices range from AR$340 to AR$560; a fair deal for what you get.
MISHKA
Map Shoes
4833-6566; El Salvador 4673; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat
Well-regarded designer Chelo Cantón was once an architect but now manages to create glittery, mostly low-heeled shoes with a retro-hip, feminine and slightly conservative vibe. Boots and booties are also on the plank but don’t seem quite as cool. Also located in Palermo’s Paseo Alcorta (opposite) shopping mall.
ALTO PALERMO
Map Shopping Mall
5777-8000; Av Coronel Díaz 2098; 10am-10pm
Smack on bustling Av Santa Fe, this popular, shiny mall offers dozens of clothing shops, bookstores, jewelry boutiques, and electronics and houseware stores. Look for Timberland, Lacoste, Hilfiger and Levi’s (plus many Argentine brands, too). Services include a food court, a cinema complex and a good kids’ area on the 3rd floor.
PASEO ALCORTA
Map Shopping Mall
5777-6500; Salguero 3172; 10am-10pm
One of the largest and most upscale malls in the city. All the popular Argentine women’s clothing shops are represented, as are international boutiques such as YSL, Lacroix and Dior. Other stores sell leather goods, kids’ clothes, men’s designs, sportswear and accessories. There’s a large food court, a cinema complex and a children’s play area.
PAPELERA PALERMO
Map Stationery
4833-3081; Honduras 4945; 10am-8pm Mon-Sat, 2-8pm Sun
Sure, everyone emails these days – but step into this wonderful stationery store and you’ll be tempted to start penning letters again. A large selection of gorgeous wrapping papers, handmade spiral notebooks (look for the Jesus motif) and leather or rabbit-skin booklets all inspire. Also located in Retiro (Map; Arenales 1170).
ARTE ÉTNICO ARGENTINO
Map Crafts & Textiles
4832-0516; El Salvador 4656; 11am-7pm Mon-Sat
Bright and beautiful woven mantas (blankets) are the main attraction at this upscale shop, located in an old house. The most detailed ones are, unsurprisingly, the most beautiful and expensive. All are made from wool and natural dyes, and can also be used as light rugs. Expect to pay from AR$1800 up.