The Wildspitze, from the Ölgrubenjoch (Route 15)
3 ÖTZTAL ALPS
Despite advanced recession caused by climate change, the Ötztal Alps contain more glaciers than any other group in Austria, and from certain vantage points the landscape is reminiscent of the larger Western Alps. These glaciers are mostly gathered along or just north of the Austro–Italian frontier where many of the range’s 3000m peaks are located, although the highest of its summits, and the second highest in Austria (the 3772m Wildspitze), stands some way forward of the border at the head of the Pitztal. It’s an extensive region of high mountains, and more than 170 of its 600-odd summits exceed 3000m in height. Its boundaries are easily defined. Although the Inn’s valley north of the Swiss border marks its western limit, so far as this guide is concerned, we will concentrate on the region’s other three main north-flowing valleys, the Kaunertal, Pitztal and the Ötztal and its tributaries. This latter valley, some 65km long, also forms a boundary of the Stubai Alps, so anything rising on the east side of that valley belongs to the next chapter.
The Wildspitze, from the Ölgrubenjoch (Route 15)
The Taschachferner seen from the Fuldaer Höhenweg (Route 15)
Dividing the Ötztal valleys, long ridge systems push forward from the frontier crest. The Glockturmkamm is the most westerly of these; a comparatively little visited stretch of high country between the Inntal and Kaunertal, whose highest summit is the 3353m Glockturm.
East of the Kaunertal, the Kaunergrat is dominated by the Watzespitze (3533m), a serious mountain and one of the real gems of the Ötztal Alps, as far as climbers are concerned. At its southern end the Kaunergrat is connected to the Weisskamm, a major source of glaciers above which the Wildspitze is undisputed monarch.
And then there’s the Geigenkamm rising between Pitztal and Ötztal. This too is attached to the Weiskamm at its northeastern end. While the Geigenkamm is mostly ice-free and running roughly south to north, the Weiskamm’s southwest to northeast alignment flanks one of the Ötztal’s major tributaries, the Ventertal, and is the most heavily glaciated section of the range.
Then there’s the Ramolkamm, a secondary ridge of high mountains dividing the Ventertal from the Gurglertal, this last-named valley being the location of the well-known Obergurgl, the highest Tyrolean parish, which is a first-rate walking and climbing centre in summer, and a major ski resort in winter.
So much for an outline of the mountain blocks and their valleys, what of their attraction to walkers? Suffice to say that the Ötztal Alps provide a bewilderingly wide range of opportunities for walkers of all ages, abilities and ambitions, with multi-day hut tours, scrambles to summits, and klettersteig adventures at the upper end of the scale.
| Location | Between the Silvretta and Stubai Alps in Tyrol. The western boundary is marked by the River Inn south of Landeck, the eastern by the Ötztal. The group extends south of the frontier ridge, but is limited on the north by the Inn’s valley spreading east of Landeck. |
| Maps | Alpenvereinskarten 30/1 Gurgl, 30/2 Weisskugel, 30/3 Kaunergrat, 30/4 Nauderer Berge, 30/5 Geigenkamm, 30/6 Wildspitze 1:25,000; Kompass Wanderkarte 43 Ötztaler Alpen 1:50,000; Freytag & Berndt WK251 Ötztal, Pitztal, Kaunertal, Wildspitze 1:50,000 |
| Bases | Feichten (Kaunertal), Plangeross and Mandarfen (Pitztal), Längenfeld, Sölden and Obergurgl (Ötztal) |
| Information | Tirol Info, 6010 Innsbruck (e-mail: info@tirol.at; website: www.tyrol.com); Tourismusverband Tiroler Oberland und Kaunertal, 6531 Ried im Oberinntal (e-mail: info@tiroler-oberland.com; website: www.tiroler-oberland.com); Tourismusverband Pitztal, 6473 Wenns/Pitztal (e-mail: info@pitztal.com; website: www.pitztal.com); Tourismusverband Längenfeld, 6444 Längenfeld (e-mail: info@laengenfeld.com; website: www.laengenfeld.com); Ötztal Tourismus, 6450 Sölden (e-mail: info@oetztal.com; website: www.solden.com); Ötztal Tourismus, 6456 Obergurgl (e-mail: info@obergurgl.com; website: www.obergurgl.com) |
| Access | The Kaunertal is reached from Landeck via Prutz, with buses to Feichten and (less frequently) as far as the Gepatsch Haus. For the Pitztal, road access is from Imst, with buses to the roadhead at Mittelberg. The Ötztal itself is gained from Ötztal Bahnhof (mainline railway) in the Inn valley. At its southern end the 2474m Timmeljoch road pass takes traffic over the mountains to St Leonhard in Italy. A bus service from Imst goes as far as Obergurgl. |
Feichten (1286m) The highest village in the Kaunertal, Feichten is located 11km from Prutz, and a short distance from the toll booths of the Gletscherstrasse which extends a further 26km up to a ski complex at the Weissseeferner, passing close to the Gepatsch Haus on the way. Feichten has a tourist office, post office, a bank with ATM, a supermarket and a number of hotels and gasthöfe up to four-star standard. The nearest campsite is located a short way downvalley at Platz, by Sporthotel Weissseespitze (Camping Kaunertal, open May to October).
Plangeross (1617m) One of many small villages in the long and narrow Pitztal, Plangeross is reckoned one of the best valley bases with basic facilities such as small grocery, post office, restaurant, several hotels and pensionen.
Mandarfen (1682m) Lying a short distance to the south of Plangeross, Mandarfen is the highest resort in the Pitztal, with tourist information, restaurants, a bank with ATM, but limited shopping. It has plenty of hotel and pension accommodation, there’s also an artificial climbing wall, and a gondola lift to the Riffelsee.
Längenfeld (1170m) Situated midway along the Ötztal between Oetz and Sölden, Längenfeld is a pleasant village standing astride the main road at the entrance to the Sulztal which cuts into the Stubai Alps, and was the birthplace of Franz Senn, the so-called ‘glacier priest’ (see box in Stubai Alps section). The village has a tourist office, a few shops, restaurants, post office, a bank with ATM, a number of hotels, pensionen and holiday apartments, and a campsite with first class facilities, Camping Ötztal (www.camping-oetztal.com). There are two klettersteige (via ferrata) in the vicinity; Klettersteig Reinhard Schiestl (grade C/D), and the Lehner Wasserfall Klettersteig (grade B/D).
Gurgler Alm on the trail to the Langtalereck Hut
Sölden (1377m) The main village in the Ötztal, with no shortage of tourist facilities and plenty of hotel and pension accommodation, as well as holiday apartments and a campsite, Camping Sölden. There’s a good selection of shops and restaurants, banks with ATMs, a post office and tourist office. Being primarily a ski resort, the slopes above Sölden are laced with cableways.
Obergurgl (1927m) Though noted as a winter resort, Obergurgl has plenty to offer walkers and climbers, and unlike some ski resorts, it retains a lively atmosphere in summer. Accommodation should not be a problem, for there are more than 40 hotels and pensionen, as well as apartments for rent. There’s a supermarket, tourist office and banks with ATMs, and the resort is served by bus from Imst and Sölden. In the heart of the village near the church stands a statue of Martinus Scheiber (1856–1939), a local guide and entrepeneur who built the first hotel here (he was also responsible for building the Ramolhaus, the first mountain hut in the valley) and effectively put Obergurgl on the map.
Numerous other villages could effectively be used as a holiday base in the Ötztal Alps. At the entrance to the Kaunertal, for example Prutz has six hotels, gasthöfe or pensionen, and a large campsite; it also has banks with ATM, a post office and shops. But it’s a long way from the action, so your own transport would be a benefit.
In the lower Pitztal the village of St Leonhard, which extends its influence over several neighbouring communities, has plentiful accommodation and facilities that may be lacking further upvalley.
The Ötztal has perhaps the largest choice of valley bases, in addition to Längenfeld, Sölden and Obergurgl mentioned above. The lower valley especially, with Oetz (820m) being one of the best with hotels and pensionen of all standards, and all facilities within the town. Umhausen is much smaller than Oetz, with limited accommodation and considerably fewer facilities. But it does have a campsite and bathing lake and, situated below the entrance to the Horlachtal (admittedly part of the Stubai Alps), its range of available walks is extended somewhat.
Braunschweiger Hut (2758m) Standing on rocks overlooking the Mittelbergferner 2½hrs from Mittelberg at the head of the Pitztal, this Category I hut belongs to the Braunschweig section of the DAV. With 35 beds and 61 dormitory places, it’s fully staffed from mid-June to the end of October (tel 0664 5353722 www.braunschweiger-huette.at).
Breslauer Hut (2844m) Originally built in 1882 by the Breslau section of the DAV, this Category I hut stands on the southern slopes of the Wildspitze 3hrs from Vent. Staffed from mid-June to the end of September, it has 64 beds and 107 dormitory places (tel 05254 8156 breslauer.huette@aon.at).
Erlanger Hut (2541m) Reached by a walk of about 4½hrs from Umhausen, this small Category I hut, owned by the Erlangen section of the DAV, stands by the little Wettersee tarn on the northeast slopes of the Wildgrat. It has just 8 beds and 40 dormitory places, and is manned from the end of June to the end of September (tel 0664 3920268).
Gepatsch Haus (1925m) Built in 1873 the Gepatsch Haus is one of the oldest huts in Austria. Until the Gepatsch reservoir was created, and the Gletscherstrasse built to the head of the Kaunertal, it enjoyed a remote location, but it’s now possible to take a bus almost to its door. A Category II building owned by the Frankfurt-am-Main section of the DAV, it has 35 beds and 43 dormitory places, and is fully staffed from mid-June to the end of September (tel 0664 4319634).
Hauersee Hut (2331m) This tiny, unmanned self-catering hut, with places for just 14, replaces an earlier building destroyed by avalanche. It stands beside the beautiful little lake after which it is named, below the Luibiskogel, about 3½hrs from Längenfeld. The hut is open from June to the end of September.
Hochjoch Hospiz (2412m) This very popular Category I hut stands far up the Rofental, about 2½hrs from Vent. Owned by the Berlin section of the DAV it has 20 beds and 50 dormitory places, and is fully staffed from mid-March to the beginning of May, and from the end of June to the end of September (tel 0676 6305998 www.dav-berlin.de).
Hochwilde Haus (2866m) Cecil Davies reckoned the situation of this hut to be second to none. Jeff Williams (in his guide to the Öztaler Alps) claimed it has ‘one of the most beautiful outlooks anywhere in the Alps’. It would be hard to disagree with either comment. Built beside a small tarn by the Karlsruhe section of the DAV on the west flank of the Schwärzenkamm overlooking the fast-shrinking Gurgler Ferner, the hut has 30 beds and 60 dormitory places, and is manned from the end of June to mid-September (tel 0664 4245824 www.alpenverein-karlsruhe.de). The approach from Obergurgl takes about 4½hrs via the Langtalereck Hut.
Kaunergrat Hut (2811m) A strenuous 3½hr approach from Plangeross in the Pitztal leads to this Category I hut which stands on the northeast flank of the Watzespitze. Owned by the Mainz section of the DAV, it has 55 dormitory places and is staffed from the end of June to mid-September (tel 05413 86242 www.kaunergrathuette.at).
Langtalereck Hut (2430m) Formerly known as the Karlsruher Hut, this Category I hut once enjoyed a direct view of the Gurgler Ferner’s icefall cascading into the Gurglertal, but the fast receding glacier can no longer be seen from it. The hut is nevertheless a very pleasant one, reached in about 2½hrs from Obergurgl. With 22 beds and 45 dormitory places, it is fully staffed from early March to early May, and from the end of June to the end of September (tel 0664 5268655 www.alpenverein-karlsruhe.de).
Ludwigsburger Hut (1935m) Previously known as the Lehnerjoch Hut, and still shown as such on some maps, it stands below the treeline 2hrs above Zaunhof in the lower Pitztal. A Category I hut belonging to the Ludwigsburg section of the DAV, with 8 beds and 48 dormitory places, it is fully staffed from the end of June to the end of September (tel 05414 20204 www.ludwigsburger-huette.at).
Martin-Busch Hut (2501m) Extremely popular with day visitors from Vent, from which it’s gained by an easy 2½hr walk through the Niedertal, this Category I hut was formerly known as the Samoar Hut. Owned by the Berlin section of the DAV, it has 49 beds and 72 dormitory places, and is fully staffed from March to mid-May, and from the end of June to the end of September (tel 05254 8130 www.dav-berlin.de).
Ramolhaus (3005m) Built between 1881 and 1883 and owned by the Hamburg section of the DAV, the Ramolhaus is perched on a rocky promontory on the west side of the Gurglertal opposite the Langtalereck Hut. Reached from Obergurgl by a walk of about 4hrs, it has 28 beds and 38 dormitory places, and is manned from July to mid-September (tel 05256 6223 www.dav-hamburg.de).
Rheinland-Pfalz Bivouac Hut (3247m) A bright orange bivouac shelter perched close to the summit of the Wassertalkogel on the Geigenkamm high above Mandarfen. Useful in emergencies for climbers and those tackling the Mainzer Höhenweg, it has 9 places, is fully equipped and always open. Amazing panoramic views; reached in 4½–5hrs from the Rüsselsheimer Hut.
Riffelsee Hut (2293m) Popular with visitors to Mandarfen near the head of the Pitztal, this hut can be reached by gondola lift, or by a 2½hr walk. Standing above the south-eastern end of the small lake after which it is named, it’s owned by the Frankfurt-am-Main section of the DAV, has 21 beds and 38 dormitory places. Category II, and fully staffed from mid-June to the end of September and from mid-December to Easter for group bookings (tel 0664 3950062 www.riffelseehuette.at).
Rüsselsheimer Hut (2323m) Previously known as the Chemnitzer Hut, this Category I hut can sleep 47 in its dormitories, and is manned from mid-June to the end of September (tel 05413 20300 www.dav-ruesselsheim.de). Gained in about 2hrs from Plangeross on the east flank of the Pitztal, the view across the valley to the Watzespitze is very fine.
The Langtalereck Hut is owned by the Karlsruhe section of the DAV
Similaun Hut (3019m) Standing on the Niederjoch on the international border at the very head of the Niedertal, this privately owned hut has 60 dormitory places and is manned from March to the end of September (tel 0473 669711 www.huettenguide.net/huetten/similaunhuette). A long walk of 5hrs leads to it from Vent, or 2hrs from the Martin-Busch Hut.
Taschach Haus (2434m) Often used as a base for climbing courses, due to its ideal location close to the Taschachferner and Wildspitze, this large Category I hut is invariably very busy. Owned by the Frankfurt-am-Main section of the DAV, it has 40 beds and 85 dormitory places, and is fully staffed from mid-June to the beginning of October (tel 0664 8368769 www.taschachhaus.com). It can be reached by a walk of 2½hrs from Mittelberg, or 3hrs from the Riffelsee Hut along an extremely scenic path.
Vernagt Hut (2755m) Built among the moraines of the Vernagtferner about 3½hrs from Vent, this Category I hut has room for 50 in beds, and 81 dormitory places. It belongs to the Würzburg section of the DAV and is fully staffed from March to mid-May, and July to the end of September (tel 0664 1412119 www.dav-wuerzburg.de).
Verpeil Hut (2025m) Pleasantly situated among meadows in the Verpeiltal east of Feichten, by which it is reached in 1½–2hrs, this Category I hut is another owned by the Frankfurt-am-Main section of the DAV. It has 45 dormitory places and is manned from the end of June to mid-September (tel 0664 2501408 www.alpenverein-frankfurtmain.de).
