Walking in Austria

With Mayrhofen its main resort base, the Zillertal is one of the best-known valleys in Austria, noted as much for its walking potential as for its skiing. Its glacier-clad peaks provide numerous expeditions for the mountaineer, while the hillsides and lower meadows suggest a botanical paradise. Reliable bus services and cableways give access to most areas, and waymarked trails are plentiful. The whole district is extremely popular, which justifies its ever-expanding tourist infrastructure.

The northern part of the Zillertal consists of a great expanse of meadowland walled on the west by the Tuxer Alps, with the Kitzbüheler Alps spreading to the east. But south of Zell am Ziller at the foot of the Gerlos Pass road (linking the Zillertal with Krimml in Oberpinzgau), the valley narrows, and grows increasingly alpine above Mayrhofen where tributary glens, known as Gründe, cut deeply into the mountains. Beginning to the east of Mayrhofen and listing clockwise, these tributaries are the Zillergrund, with a minor road via Bärenbad leading to a reservoir at over 1800m; the Stillupgrund, also partially drowned with a reservoir; the long Zemmgrund with three more feeder glens; and the beautiful Zamsergrund extending beyond that with a toll road leading to the Schlegeis reservoir, beyond which the valley reaches up to the Pfitscher Joch on the Italian border. And finally there’s the Tuxertal which pushes west and southwest from Mayrhofen. This last-named is the most heavily developed, thanks to year-round skiing on the glacier at its head.

It is in these tributaries that the vast majority of walks are located. For each valley rewards with stimulating scenery, and has at least one mountain hut and, more often than not, an additional restaurant, inn or farmhouse offering refreshments.

Apart from the 3476m Olperer which forms a cornerstone of the Tuxertal, and the steep-sided Schrammacher (3410m) neighbouring it to the south, most of the highest mountains rim the Austro–Italian border. These include the Hochfeiler (3509m), Grosser Möseler (3480m), the 3420m Turnerkamp, 3369m Schwarzenstein and Grosser Löffler at 3379m. All of these are draped with fast-shrinking glaciers which, though not technically difficult to climb, put their summits beyond the range of routes in this book. But as a backdrop to numerous walks, their individual structure and grace of line help make the Zillertal Alps a district of considerable dramatic charm.

Walkers planning to spend a week or more in the Zillertal should consider investing in a Z-Ticket (available from June to October) to obtain free use of cable-cars, gondolas and chairlifts in the district, as well as trains and buses (not in the Stilluptal), together with unlimited use of the valley’s open-air swimming pools. Valid for 6, 9 or 12 consecutive days, the Z-Ticket can be purchased from Zillertal tourist offices and railway stations – a passport-sized photograph will be needed. The accompanying booklet includes timetables.

Zell am Ziller (575m) Formerly a gold-mining village, Zell is the chief resort of the lower valley, with a large ski area to the east served by the Kreuzjochbahn gondola, and an enticing 380m klettersteig above the Gerlos Pass road. There are plenty of restaurants, shops, a post office and bank, several hotels, private rooms and a campsite about 400m southeast of the centre, on the way to the Gerlos Pass. The tourist office is located on Dorfplatz in the village centre.

Mayrhofen (633m) One of the major Tyrolean resorts, Mayrhofen is largely dependent on package tourism, but its popularity is entirely justified by its situation, infrastructure, public transport and wealth of attractions. Given half-decent weather, no walker based here for a couple of weeks or so in summer need run short of ideas. The town has numerous hotels of all grades, gästehäuser and private rooms, and a campsite at Laubichl. There’s no shortage of shops, restaurants, banks and bars, and the well-stocked tourist office is housed in the impressive Europahaus congress centre.

Finkenberg (850m) About 3km west of Mayrhofen at the entrance to the Tuxertal, Finkenberg is a modest-sized village in contrast to Mayrhofen’s somewhat crowded atmosphere. Although there’s limited accommodation and few other facilities, it makes a pleasant alternative base for a walking holiday. Details may be had from the Tux-Finkenberg tourist office.

Berliner Hut (2042m) Standing at the head of the Zemmgrund in view of the Hornkees glacier about 3hrs walk from the Breitlahner bus stop, the Berliner Hut is the largest in the Zillertal Alps. Owned by the Berlin section of the DAV, it was originally built in 1879, has 76 beds in rooms, and 92 dormitory places, and is noted for the chandeliers in its panelled dining room. A Category I hut, it’s fully staffed from mid-June to the end of September (tel 05286 5223 www.berlinerhuette.at).

Dominikus Hut (1805m) The original Dominikus Hut was drowned in 1971 when the valley it stood in was dammed to create the Schlegeis reservoir. The replacement is a privately owned hotel-like hut with 13 beds and 18 dormitory places, standing just above the road at the head of the Zamser Tal, reached by bus from Mayrhofen. It is staffed from May to the end of October (tel 05286 5216 www.dominikushuette.at).

Edel Hut (2238m) This Category I hut (its full name is the Karl von Edel Hut) is invariably visited by walkers climbing the popular Ahornspitze above Mayrhofen. Easily reached in 1–1½hrs via the Ahornbahn cableway, it has 35 beds and 60 dormitory places, is manned from mid-June to the end of September, and belongs to the DAV’s Würzburg section (tel 0664 9154851 www.alpenverein.at/huetten).

Friesenberghaus (2477m) Standing some 700m above the Zamsergrund, on the route of the Berliner Höhenweg, this Category I hut is owned by the Berlin section of the DAV and is fully manned from mid-June to the beginning of October. It has 11 beds and 30 dormitory places and can be reached in about 2hrs from the bus stop at the Schlegeis reservoir (tel 0676 7497550 www.friesenberghaus.com).

Furtschaglhaus (2293m) Built in 1889 below the Grosser Möseler at the head of the Schlegeisgrund, the Furtschaglhaus has 77 beds and 30 dormitory places. A Category I hut owned by the DAV’s Berlin section, it is staffed from mid-June to the end of September (tel 0676 9579818 www.furtschaglhaus.com).

Gams Hut (1921m) Located southwest of Finkenberg, the small Category I Gams Hut has just 40 dormitory places, is owned by the Otterfing section of the DAV and is staffed from June to the end of September (tel 0676 3437741 www.gamshuette.at).

Geraer Hut (2326m) Standing on the southwest slope of the Olperer, and usually approached from St Jodok am Bremer in 4hrs, this Category I hut belongs to the DAV’s Landshut section. With 16 beds and 80 dormitory places, it’s manned from the end of June to mid-September (tel 0676 9610303 www.geraerhuette.at).

Grawandhaus (1640m) This privately owned hut is located roughly midway along the Zemmgrund valley, about 1½hrs walk from the Breitlahner bus stop. With 20 beds and 15 dormitory places, it’s manned from May until the beginning of October (tel 05286 5213).

Greizer Hut (2227m) A 4hr walk from Ginzling leads to this Category I hut set at the head of the Floitengrund below the Floitenkees glacier. Manned from mid-June to mid-September, and owned by the Greiz section of the DAV, there are 18 beds and 52 places in its dormitories (tel 0664 1405003 www.alpenverein-greiz.de).

Grüne-Wand Hut (1438m) Reached by either a 4hr walk or by minibus from Mayrhofen, this privately owned hut stands near the roadhead in the Stillupgrund valley. With 14 beds and 15 dormitory places, it’s staffed from mid-May to the end of September (tel 0664 4332107 www.alpenverein.at/huetten).

Kasseler Hut (2178m) At the head of the Stillupgrund, this Category I hut is reached by a 2hr walk from the Grüne-Wand Hut (minibus from Mayrhofen) on a steep zigzag path. Belonging to the DAV’s Kassel section, it has 24 beds and 72 dormitory places, and is manned from mid-June to the end of September (tel 0664 1141496 www.kasseler-huette.com).

Olperer Hut (2388m) Perched about 600m above the Schlegeis reservoir (bus service from Mayrhofen), and gained by a walk of 1½hrs from the bus stop, the Category I Olperer Hut is owned by the Neumarkt section of the DAV. With 42 dormitory places, it’s manned from June to the beginning of October (tel 0664 4176566 www.olpererhuette.de).

Pfitscher-Joch-Haus (2275m) Although standing on the Italian side of the pass after which it is named, it’s easily reached by a lovely walk of about 2hrs from the bus stop at the Schlegeis reservoir. Privately owned, it is staffed from late June until mid-October, and has 30 beds (tel 0472 630119 www.pfitscherjochhaus.com).

Plauener Hut (2364m) A very pleasant 1½hr walk from the bus stop at the Zillergrund reservoir dam leads to this Category I hut overlooking the Reichenspitze amphitheatre. Belonging to the Plauen-Vogtland section of the DAV, it’s manned from mid-June to the end of September with 6 beds and 74 dormitory places (tel 0650 2250369 www.plauener-huette.at).

Spannaglhaus (2531m) Owned by the ÖTK, the hut stands at the head of the Tuxertal among the gondolas serving the Tuxer glacier ski area, about 3½hrs from Hintertux, or 10mins from the upper gondola lift station. Open throughout the year, except June, there are 20 beds and 27 dormitory places (tel 05287 707 www.alpenverein.at/huetten).

Tuxer-Joch-Haus (2313m) Also owned by the ÖTK, this hut is located southwest of Hintertux, about 2½hrs from the roadhead, but with a chairlift nearby. Open most of the year (not May or November), it has 13 beds and 28 dormitory places (tel 05287 87216 www.tuxerjochhaus.at).

Location	East of the Stubai Alps, from which the Zillertal chain is separated by the Wipptal which carries the Brenner Pass road. The mountains spread across the Italian border, and are bounded to the north by the Tuxer and Kitzbüheler Alps. The Zillertal proper runs in an almost straight line south of the Inn Valley to Mayrhofen, where it then branches into several major tributaries.
Maps	Alpenvereinskarte 35/1 Westliches Blatt, 35/2 Mittleres Blatt, and 35/3; Östliches Blatt 1:25,000; Kompass Wanderkarte 037 Mayrhofen Tuxertal-Zillergund 1:25,000; Mayr 33 Zillertaler Alpen 1:35,000; Freytag & Berndt WK152 Mayrhofen – Zillertaler Alpen 1:50,000
Bases	Zell am Ziller, Mayrhofen, Finkenberg
Information	Tirol Info, 6010 Innsbruck (e-mail: info@tirol.at; website: www.tyrol.com); Zillertal Tourism (e-mail: holiday@zillertal.at; website: www.zillertal.at); Zell am Ziller Tourismus (e-mail: service@zillertalarena.com; website: www.zillertalarena.com); Mayrhofen Tourismusverbund (e-mail: info@mayrhofen.at; website: www.mayrhofen.at); Tux-Finkenberg Tourismus (e-mail: info@tux.at; website: www.tux.at)
Access	From Jenbach, 38km northeast of Innsbruck, the Zillertal strikes south to Mayrhofen. The valley is served by the Zillertalbahn, a narrow-gauge steam railway running between Jenbach (on the Innsbruck-Salzburg main-line) and Mayrhofen, with bus or minibus services extending to most of the tributary valleys.