Walking in Austria

Lying south of the Kitzbüheler Alps, this extensive area of high mountains, numerous glaciers, spectacular waterfalls and deep valleys contains Austria’s largest National Park. The Hohe Tauern is made up of several individual mountain groups, notably the Glockner, Venediger, Lasörling, Schoberg and Granatspitz, and is shared by no less than three provinces: Salzburg, Carinthia and Osttirol. Of the three major roads that cross the Hohe Tauern from north to south, only one – the Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse – has been made over a high pass. In the west the highway running from Mittersill to Matrei penetrates the mountains via the 5km-long Felbertauern tunnel, while the easternmost road through the Gasteinertal uses a rail tunnel to transport vehicles from Bockstein to Mallnitz in the Ankogel group.

Forming the most westerly section of the Hohe Tauern range, the Venediger group contains Austria’s largest area of glaciers after the Ötztal range, its highest peak being the 3674m Grossvenediger, standing head and shoulders above its neighbours. A series of comparatively short but deeply cut valleys flow northward from the Venediger in parallel lines to the Salzach. The best-known of these is that of the Krimmler Ache, with the celebrated Krimml Falls plunging 380m in three cascades, famed as one of the grandest waterfalls in the Eastern Alps.

On the south slope of the Venediger group the Virgental takes the snowmelt from the high mountains down to the Iseltal at Matrei. Matrei in Osttirol is arguably the best centre for mountain activities on this side of the Hohe Tauern, for it also has access to the Granatspitz, Glockner, Schober and Lasörling groups. The Granatspitz group is small and compact, a narrow group of peaks wedged between the Tauerntal and Dorfertal. Surprisingly its highest summit is not the mountain after which it takes its name, but the 3232m Grosser Muntanitz which stands almost due west of the Grossglockner, and is separated from it by the sparsely inhabited Dorfertal.

At 3798m the Grossglockner is Austria’s crowning pinnacle, a graceful peak first climbed in 1800, and now a major attraction for hundreds of mountaineers every summer, and a focal point for the thousands of car and coach passengers who gaze at it from the Hochalpenstrasse several kilometres away to the east. Although the Grossglockner may be the loftiest peak in Austria, it is matched for grace and beauty by the 3203m Kitzsteinhorn – another sharply pinnacled summit rising from glaciers above Kaprun.

Kaprun is linked with Zell am See across the Salzach river valley, but while Zell is one of the major resorts of the Kitzbüheler Alps, the Kaprunertal is very much part of the Hohe Tauern’s drainage system, and in its upper reaches two large reservoirs gather melt water from the Pasterze glacier on the Grossglockner, which helps generate electricity at a power plant above Kaprun. A trail alongside the topmost reservoir (the Mooserboden) continues across the 2639m Kapruner Törl to the huge Rudolfs Hut, used as an Alpine centre for training courses run by the ÖAV.

East of the Kaprunertal, the Fuschertal has been invaded by the Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse, but the next valley (the Rauristal) which pushes into the Sonnblick group, has no traffic congestion, and the Gasteinertal towards the eastern end of the Hohe Tauern is green and pleasant and with good walking country above Badgastein on the edge of the Ankogel group.

But there’s good walking to be had almost everywhere in the Hohe Tauern, while the National Park gives the district additional status and much-needed protection.

Badgastein (1002m) As its name suggests, Badgastein is a spa town that developed as one of Austria’s best-known health resorts, and this reputation makes it the more surprising, perhaps, to discover that it has some fine walking country close by. Built on a series of terraces overlooking the low meadows of the Gasteinertal, the palatial hotels, spa buildings and shops give way to a thunderous waterfall that cascades in a burst of spray through the town. As well as the rather grand-looking hotels with their saunas and swimming pools, Badgastein also has more modest accommodation with pensionen, bed-and-breakfast establishments and private rooms to let; there are campsites in the lower valley near Bad Hofgastein. With a variety of shops, banks, restaurants and bars, the town also has chairlifts and gondolas on hillsides to the west and south, a railway station (trains from Salzburg), post office and a tourist office.

Kaprun (786m) A small resort village at the foot of the Kitzsteinhorn, and overlooked by a 12th-century castle, Kaprun is at its busiest in the ski season, although it developed in the 19th century as a mountaineering centre, boasting more than 100 local guides. It has a choice of hotels and pensionen (list available from the tourist office), a few shops and restaurants, but most facilities are to be found at Zell am See, 5km away across the Salzach valley.

Matrei in Osttirol (975m) Conveniently bypassed by the main north–south Felbertauern highway (buses from Mittersill in the north, and Lienz in the south), Matrei stands astride the Isel at the entrance to the Virgental. A neat and attractive little resort with plenty of accommodation of all standards, including a campsite (the Edengarten Tel 4875 5111) just to the south, there’s a variety of shops, banks with ATM, a Nationalparkhaus, post office and a tourist office in the village square.

Kals am Grossglockner (1325m) Nestling in the Kalsertal/Dorfertal, a tributary of the Iseltal which it joins below Matrei, Kals am Grossglockner comprises the neighbouring hamlets of Kals Lesach, Lana, Ködnitz, Berg and Grossdorf, and is an important centre for Grossglockner-based activity. Reached by bus from Matrei and Lienz, it has a reasonable amount of accommodation, including 4-star hotels, gasthäuser, apartments, private rooms and romantic alm huts to rent. The village has cafés, restaurants, a bank with ATM, a post office and tourist office. The nearest campsite is located upvalley at Taurer below the junction with the Teischnitz Tal.

Since there are more than 100 huts in the various groups that make up the Hohe Tauern district, the following list only includes those that are located in or near areas described in this chapter. Details of the remaining Tauern huts can be found in the ‘green book’ published in Munich by Rother, Alpenvereins Hütten 1: Ostalpen.

Badener Hut (2608m) Standing below the Frossnitzkees glacier high in the remote Frossnitztal, this Category I hut is visited by walkers tackling the Venediger Höhenweg. It has 17 beds and 31 dormitory places, but is staffed only from July until mid-September (tel 0664 9155666 www.alpenverein.at/huetten).

Badgasteiner Hut (2465m) Also known as the Gamskarkogel Hut after the peak on which it stands above Bad Hofgastein, this small Category I hut has 9 beds and 8 places in its dormitory, and is manned from mid-June to mid-September (tel 0664 3566707 www.gamskarkogelhuette.at). It is gained by a walk of 4½hrs from Bad Hofgastein via the Rastötzenalm.

Bonn-Matreier Hut (2745m) Jointly owned by the DAV’s Bonn section, and the Matrei section of the ÖAV, this comfortable Category I hut stands on the north flank of the Virgental and is reached by a walk of about 3½hrs from Virgen. With 13 beds and 40 dormitory places, it is fully staffed from the end of June until the end of September (tel 04874 5577 www.alpenverein.at/huetten).

Clara Hut (2036m) A small, single-storey Category I hut with just 16 dormitory places, it stands below the Malham Spitzen in the Umbaltal, the upper reaches of the Virgental accessed from Matrei. It is manned from June to mid-October (tel 0664 9758893 www.alpenverein.at/huetten).

Defreggerhaus (2962m) Owned by the ÖTK and located on the edge of the Rainer Kees south of the Grossvenediger, about 4½hrs from Hinterbichl, it has 30 beds and 42 places in its dormitories, and is fully staffed between Easter and Whitsun, and from July until the end of September (tel 0676 9439145 www.alpenverein.at/huetten).

Eissee Hut (2520m) Standing near the head of the Timmeltal north of Prägraten, from which it is reached by a walk of 3½hrs, this small, privately owned hut is on the route of the Venediger Höhenweg. It has 14 beds and 31 dormitory places, and is manned from June to the end of September (tel 0664 4606459 www.eisseehuette.at).

Erzherzog-Johann Hut (3451m) The highest mountain hut in the Eastern Alps, it’s perched on the Adlersruhe (Eagle’s Rest) less than 350m below the summit of the Grossglockner. Despite its lofty position, and the fact that it has 10 beds and 120 dormitory places, the hut is invariably crowded with climbers in the high season. Gained in about 5hrs from the Lucknerhaus roadhead above Kals, it is manned from July to the end of September (tel 04876 8500 www.erzherzog-johann-huette.at).

Essener Rostocker Hut (2207m) Large adjoining buildings with a total of 50 beds and 50 dormitory places, the huts belong to two different sections of the DAV and stand on the west flank of the Maurertal, about 2½–3hrs from Ströden in the Virgental; staffed from March until mid-May, and from mid-June until early October (tel 04877 5101 www.alpenverein.at/huetten).

Glorer Hut (2651m) Standing on the windy saddle of the Bergertörl northeast of the Lucknerhaus roadhead above Kals am Grossglockner, the Glorer Hut was built by the DAV’s Eichstätt section in 1887. A Category I hut, it has 50 dormitory places, and is staffed from June until October (tel 0664 3032200 www.alpenverein.at/huetten).

Grünsee Hut (2235m) A small, timber-built Category I hut, it overlooks the tarn from which it takes its name, about 2½hrs northeast of the Matreier Tauernhaus, and is useful for walkers tackling the St Pöltner Ostweg. Owned by the ÖAV’s Matrei section, the hut has just 20 dormitory spaces, but is unmanned (for the key, Tel 04875 5337 www.alpenverein.at/huette).

Hagener Hut (2448m) Reached by a walk of 4½hrs from Bockstein above Badgastein, this Category I hut is located on the Mallnitzer Tauern where the Goldberg group gives way to the Ankogel group. Built in 1912 by the Hagen section of the DAV, it has 14 beds and 27 dormitory places, and is staffed from July to mid-October (tel 0664 4036697 www.alpenverein.at/huette).

Hannoverhaus (2720m) Built on a ridge west of the 3252m Ankogel, on the National Park boundary about 6hrs from Bockstein, this Category II hut belongs to the DAV’s Hanover section. With 35 beds and 35 dormitory places, it is fully staffed from July to the end of September (tel 0664 1619367 www.alpenverein-hannover.de).

Heinrich-Schwaiger-Haus (2802m) Standing almost 800m above the Mooserboden reservoir in the upper Kaprunertal, this Category I hut belongs to the Munich section of the DAV. With 14 beds and 64 dormitory places it is fully staffed from mid-June to the end of September, and may be reached by a steeply climbing path in 2½hrs from the reservoir (tel 0664 6565555 www.davplus.de/heinrich-schwaiger-haus).

Johannis Hut (2116m) This popular Category I hut stands on the east bank of the Dorferbach below the Grossvenediger, and is used by walkers on the Venediger Höhenweg, and by day visitors travelling through the valley from Hinterbichl. Owned by the DAV’s Oberland section from Munich, it has 50 dormitory places, and is staffed from mid-March until mid-May, and from mid-June until the end of September (tel 04877 5150 www.johannis-huette.at).

Kalser Tauernhaus (1754m) Standing in the upper Dorfertal north of Kals am Grossglockner, this stone-built Category I hut belongs to the DAV’s Mönchengladbach section. It has 22 beds and 21 dormitory places, and is manned from mid-June to the end of October (tel 0664 9857090 www.kalser-tauernhaus.de).

Kals-Matreier-Törlhaus (2207m) As its name suggests, the Kals-Matreier-Törl is a saddle on a ridge linking Kals am Grossglockner and Matrei in Osttirol. With use of the two-stage Goldried cableway from Matrei, this privately owned hut is reached without much effort in less than 1hr. It has just 20 dormitory places, but is very busy with day-visitors. It is fully staffed from July to the end of September (tel 0664 9256806 www.virgental.at).

Karl-Fürst Hut (2629m) This small unmanned hut was built in 1936 at the head of the seemingly remote Landecktal west of the Sonnblick. It has spaces for 12 in its dormitory, and may be reached in about 5hrs from the Felbertauern highway, midway between the tunnel and Matrei (www.alpenverein.at/karlfuersthuette.

Kleine Philipp-Reuter Hut (2677m) Built below the Austro–Italian border ridge at the head of the Umbaltal, 2½hrs from the Clara Hut, this unmanned hut has just 8 places and is permanently open (www.dav-essen.de.

Krefelder Hut (2293m) A large Category II hut, built in 1907 by the DAV’s Krefeld section, it sits directly below the Kitzsteinhorn, just 30mins from the second station of the Glacierbahn gondola from Kaprun, and is popular with skiers. With 32 beds and 24 dormitory places, it is staffed all year round except in June and from mid-September to the beginning of November (tel 06547 7780 www.krefelderhuette.com).

Krimmler Tauernhaus (1622m) Approached by a 3hr walk from Krimml, this privately owned hut stands in the valley of the Krimmler Ache, has 23 beds and 38 dormitory places and is staffed throughout the year (tel 0664 2612174 www.krimmler-tauernhaus.at).

Kürsinger Hut (2558m) Perfectly placed near the Obersulzbach glacier for the ascent of the Grossvenediger, this large Category I hut has 50 beds and 100 dormitory places, and is staffed from Easter until the end of September (tel 06565 6450 www.kuersinger-huette.at). Approached from Neukirchen in the Salzachtal by a long walk of 6–7hrs.

Luckner Hut (2241m) Privately owned, the Luckner Hut is set below the Grossglockner, an hour’s easy walk from the roadhead at the Lucknerhaus. With 12 beds and 23 dormitory places, it is manned from June to mid-October (tel 04876 8455 www.lucknerhuette.at).

Mindener Hut (2431m) This small unmanned hut with 12 dormitory places, is only open from mid-June to mid-September. It is located above Mallnitz, midway between the Hannoverhaus and Hagener Hut on the route of the Tauernhöhenweg (www.dav-minden.de/mindener-huette.

Neue Prager Hut (2976m) Standing 300m above the unmanned Alte Prager Hut close to the Schlatenkees glacier on the eastern side of the Grossvenediger, this climbers’ hut was built in 1904 by the DAV’s Munich-based Oberland section. Reached by a trail from Innergschloss in 4hrs, it has 62 beds and 36 dormitory places, and is staffed from mid-March until mid-May, and from Whitsun until the end of September (tel 0664 6304186 www.alpenverein.de).

Niedersachsenhaus (2472m) Most conveniently reached from Sportgastein (about 6km from Bockstein) the Niedersachsenhaus lies midway between the upper Gasteinertal and the Hüttwinkltal. Originally built by the DAV’s Hanover section in 1926, and rebuilt in 1987, it has 12 beds and 46 dormitory places, and is staffed from July to the end of September (tel 0676 7564841 www.niedersachsenhaus.at).

Rudolfs Hut (2315m) This massive Berghotel standing by the Weissee northeast of the Granatspitze, is the Alpine centre used by the ÖAV for training courses. Despite the large number of places (200 beds and 53 dormitory places), accommodation is often at a premium in the summer, and advanced booking is essential (tel 06563 8221 www.alpinzentrum-rudolfshuette.at). It is fully staffed throughout the year, except in May and from October to Christmas.

St Pöltner Hut (2481m) At the head of the Tauernbach tributary valley north of the Matreier Tauernhaus, this Category I hut was built in 1922 by the ÖAV’s St Pölten section. It has 18 beds and 59 dormitory places, is staffed from the end of June until the end of September (tel 06562 6265 www.alpenverein.at/sankt-poelten), and may be reached by a walk of about 3hrs from the Matreier Tauernhaus.

Sajat Hut (2600m) This privately owned hut stands on the north flank of the Virgental on the Prägraten Höhenweg. With 43 beds and 15 spaces in its dormitory, it’s staffed from mid-May until the end of October (tel 0664 5454460 www.sajathuette.at).

Salm Hut (2638m) Approached from the Stüdl Hut along the Stüdl-Weg, this hut lies on the south side of the Grossglockner above the Leitertal. Owned by the Vienna section of the ÖAV, it has 30 beds and 31 dormitory places, and is staffed from mid-June until the end of September (tel 04824 2089 www.alpenverein.at/salmhuette).

Salzburger Hut (1860m) Owned by the ÖTK (the Austrian Touring Club), and standing on a very pleasant hillside below the Kitzsteinhorn, this small hut has only 5 dormitory places, but makes a useful refreshment stop for Kaprun-based walkers. It’s manned from mid-June until the end of September (www.huettenguide.net/huetten/salzburger-huette.

Stüdl Hut (2802m) Originally built in 1868 by Johann Stüdl, one of the co-founders of the DAV, and rebuilt to a modern, half-dome design in 1996, this Category I hut is used as a base by climbers tackling the Grossglockner. Reached by a walk of about 3hrs from the Lucknerhaus roadhead above Kals, it stands on the Fanatscharte southsouthwest of the Glockner, has an indoor climbing wall, 114 dormitory places and is staffed from March until mid-May, then from the end of June until early October (tel 04876 8209 www.davplus.de/stuedlhuette).

Sudetendeutsche Hut (2656m) Set beside a small tarn high above the Tauerntal in the Granatspitz group, this Category I hut is used by walkers tackling the splendid höhenweg which bears the name of the hut (about 4½hrs from the Matrei-Goldried cableway). Fully staffed from the end of June until the end of September, it has 23 beds and 32 dormitory places (tel 0720 347802 www.sudetendeutsche-huette.de).

Warnsdorfer Hut (2336m) Standing below the Krimmler Kees at the head of the valley of the Krimmler Ache, about 2½hrs above the Krimmler Tauernhaus, this Category I hut has 13 beds and 61 dormitory places, and is fully staffed from mid-June to the end of September (tel 06564 8241 www.warnsdorferhuette.at). It’s well situated for climbs on the Dreiherrnspitze and Simony Spitzen, among others.

HOHE TAUERN NATIONAL PARK

Established in 1981, the Hohe Tauern National Park now covers an area of more than 1800 km2, making it the largest nature reserve in Central Europe. A landscape of high mountains, deep valleys and scores of lakes and smaller tarns, its crowning glory is the 3798m Grossglockner, but in addition there are over 300 summits in excess of 3000m within, or along, the park’s boundaries, which embrace sections of three provinces: Carinthia, Salzburg and Osttirol. The heart of the park is still heavily glaciated, but as with every other Alpine region, the glaciers are in retreat. Yet they, and the gleaming snowfields, add an undoubted allure to the region’s scenic qualities.

National Park sign above Badgastein

Though it has its wild and seemingly remote corners, the National Park is not a wilderness, for the valleys of the Hohe Tauern have been settled and worked for 5000 years, creating the neat mountain pastures and areas of cultivation that add a human dimension. One third of all Austrian plant species are found here, along with an abundant wildlife; according to park literature, approximately 10,000 species, which include the golden eagle, bearded vulture, ibex, chamois and marmot.

More than a dozen Information Centres and National Park Houses will be found in and around the park, with displays, information panels and plenty of literature available.

Location	South of the Salzach river and north of the Gailtal and Lesachtal. The western boundary is the Austro–Italian border, while at the eastern end the mountains butt against the various groups of the Niedere Tauern.
Maps	Alpenvereinskarte 36 Venedigergruppe; 40 Glocknergruppe; 41 Schobergruppe; 42 Sonnblick; and 44 Ankogel-Hochalmspitze 1:25,000; Freytag & Berndt Nationalpark Hohe Tauern Wanderkarte; WK191; Gasteinertal, Wagrain, Grossarltarl; WK382 Zell am See, Kaprun, Saalbach; WK121 Grossvenediger, Oberpinzgau; WK122 Grossglockner, Kaprun, Zell am See; and WK193 Sonnblick, Grossglocknerstrasse, Unterpinzgau 1:50,000; Kompass Wanderkarte 38 Venedigergrupper, Oberpinzgau; 39; Glocknergruppe, Zell am See; 40 Gasteiner Tal, Goldberggruppe; 46 Matrei in Osttirol, Venedigergruppe; 47 Lienzer Dolomiten, Lesachtal; 48 Kals am Grossglockner; 49 Mallnitz, Obervellach; and 50 Heiligenblut, Grosskirchheim 1:50,000
Bases	Badgastein, Kaprun, Matrei in Osttirol, Kals am Grossglockner
Information	Badgastein Spa & Tourism Association (e-mail: bad@gastein.com; website: www.badgastein.at); Zell am See Tourismus (e-mail: welcome@zellamsee-kaprun.com; website: www.zellamsee-kaprun.com); Infobüro Matrei in Osttirol (e-mail: matrei@hohetauern-osttirol.at; website: www.matreiinosttirol.at); Infobüro Kals am Grossglockner (e-mail: kals@hohetauern- osttirol.at; website: www.kalstourismus.at); National Park Region Carinthia, 9843 Grosskirchheim (website: www.tauernalpin.at); National Park Region Osttirol, 9971 Matrei in Osttirol (website: www.hohetauern-osttirol.at); Fereinregion National Park Hohe Tauern, 5730 Mittersill (website: www.nationalpark.at)
Access	Mainline rail services to Badgastein, and to Zell am See (for Kaprun). The nearest mainline train station for Matrei and Kals is Lienz. A regular bus service runs from Mittersill through the Felbertauern tunnel to Matrei. Good roads feed many side valleys, but note that the three routes that cross the range from north to south are all toll roads.