| Start | Douglass Hut (1976m) |
| Finish | Gargellen (1423m) |
| Distance | 23km |
| Grade | 3 |
| Time | 3 days |
| Location | West to east across the north flank of the mountains |
| Highest point | Sarotlapass (2389m) |
Making a traverse of the north flank of the Rätikon mountains, this is a justifiably popular hut-to-hut tour that makes an excellent introduction to this form of mountain activity. Each stage is comparatively short. Paths are mostly good and well marked. The route is not too demanding, yet it has a few strenuous sections and in places a brief sense of isolation. Huts are comfortable and the scenery superb.
Day 1 From the Douglass Hut follow the lakeside path in either direction as far as the Lünersee Alm where there’s a signed junction. Take the upper path climbing into a hanging valley, and keep ahead at the next junction 5mins later. (The right branch goes to the Cavelljoch on the Swiss border – see Route 4.) Aiming for the Verajöchl the path rises alongside a little stream leaking through pastures. Ignore a second path branching right to the Cavelljoch, continue ahead and cross the stream by footbridge, then skirt a marshy basin fluffed with cotton grass.
Passing below an abandoned customs hut, the way climbs left into an upper region littered with rocks and boulders, then becomes more grassy on the final approach to the 2330m Verajöchl. From the saddle a splendid view ahead shows the great gash of the Schweizertor cleaving the limestone wall that runs from the Kirchlispitzen to the Drusenfluh. Looking back the Schesaplana is equally impressive.
Descend grass slopes on the east side of the saddle to another one-time customs hut close to the Schweizertor at 2137m, then keep ahead to climb through a narrow grass valley below the contorted limestone of the Drusenfluh, and gain the 2291m Ofapass about 40mins from the Verajöchl. The Lindauer Hut can now be seen below to the east, and a sign suggests a rather generous 1hr 15mins to get there.
Sulzfluh, seen from Sporeralpe near the Lindauer Hut
With the hut in sight virtually all the way, the path descends steeply in places, with the Drusenfluh’s rock scenery growing more impressive with each step. Shortly after passing a very small alm hut, wander past the complex of buildings of Obere Sporalpe to reach the Lindauer Hut, about 3½hrs from the Douglass Hut.
The Category I Lindauer Hut (1744m) has 60 beds in rooms and 140 dormitory places, is staffed from the end of February to the end of March, and from June to mid-October (tel 0664 5033456 www.lindauerhuette.at). A notable alpine garden is located next to it.
Day 2 The second stage of the tour is also short (3hrs 15mins), but full of interest and notable for the long, steep ascent of the Bilkengrat. It begins by following a signed path heading east. This becomes a track, and when it curves left you continue ahead on a footpath sloping down among bilberry, dwarf pine and alpenrose, then twisting through light pinewoods with the big walls of the Sulzfluh towering overhead. Edging below these walls the way forks at the entrance to a hanging valley.
An alternative route here ascends the Sulzfluh and crosses to the Tilisuna Hut in 3hrs 45mins.
Taking the path to the Bilkengrat, wander a short distance into this valley, cross its stream, then climb steeply up the left-hand slope. Passing through a belt of conifers emerge to a stunning view back to the Drei Turme of the Drusenfluh. Continuing the steep climb of the Bilkengrat spur there are consistently fine views to enjoy. You then come to a junction at 1990m where a sign gives 1hr 15mins to the Tilisuna Hut. But the climb is by no means over, for there’s almost 350m yet to gain before reaching the 2336m Schwarze Scharte overlooking the Tilisunasee which lies below in a green basin. The Tilisuna Hut is unseen from here, although it’s only 20mins away. The path now swings round the mountainside, contours for a while, then angles easily down to turn a spur which reveals the hut just below.
The Tilisuna Hut (2211m: Category I) is manned from mid-June to mid-October with 142 places in rooms and dormitories (tel 0664 1107969). Given time and energy on arrival, it would be worth making the ascent of the Sulzfluh – see Route 7.
Day 3 This final stage of the Rätikon Höhenweg Nord strays briefly onto the Swiss flank of the mountains before descending to Gargellen. A sign outside the hut directs the way to the Gruobenpass (25mins), the first of the day’s three passes. It heads across pastures above the Tilisunersee and forks near a much smaller tarn. Ignore the left branch and keep ahead, rising above the tarn and skirting the base of limestone crags. The way then twists among them, and squeezing through narrow clefts, gains the gap of the Gruobenpass where there’s a small wooden customs hut. There are two signs giving the altitude; the Austrian says 2241m, the Swiss sign gives 2232m.
Do not cross this pass, but descend briefly left towards the pastures of the Gampadelstal, then rise again over grass hummocks, skirting little pools as the path works its way round the head of the valley. After weaving a devious course, the trail then makes a more direct approach to the Plasseggenpass (2354m). Just below it you pass another small one-time customs hut.
The Plasseggenpass is not only the border between Austria and Switzerland, but also marks the divide between limestone on the west, and crystalline rock on the east. Once again the path forks. Branch left (southeast) to cut along the Swiss flank of the Sarotlaspitzen on a narrow path that picks a route across the steep broken slope. One section crossing a band of rocks is safeguarded with a length of fixed cable, and moments later you arrive at the Sarotlapass (2389m) to gain an exciting view ahead of the Silvretta group – a range of jaunty, rocky peaks, some wearing glaciers and snowfields.
There follows a descent of more than 900m to Gargellen, at first taking a series of long loops down a steep hillside before contouring across the right-hand slope. The descent then resumes among alpenroses, crosses a gully and makes a traverse among lush vegetation, including thickets of alder. On turning a spur you gaze down into the head of the Gargellental, with the 2770m Madrisa directly ahead.
On reaching the solitary alm building of Obere Röbialpe at 1913m, the path descends beside it, cuts down the right flank of a spur, then more steeply to Untere Röbialpe and a junction. Both options lead to Gargellen. The right branch cuts along the edge of woodland, then goes through it. Over a stream you then wander through a meadow to another farm and barn, then descend again into forest where a signed path slopes to the right and moments later you gain a direct view onto the village. A footpath takes you over a stream at the outflow from a gorge, and across a final meadow enters Gargellen (3hrs 15mins from the Tilisuna Hut).
Gargellen (1423m) has a range of hotels, apartments and private rooms, a supermarket, post office and tourist information (tel 05557 6303). Buses go from here to St Gallenkirch in the Montafon valley.