ROUTE 15

Hut to Hut across the Ötztal Alps

Start	Gepatsch Haus (1925m)
Finish	Sölden (1377m)
Distance	33km
Grade	3
Time	3 days
Location	From the Kaunertal to the Ötztal
Highest point	Ölgrubenjoch (3095m)
Accommodation	Gepatsch Haus, Taschach Haus, Braunschweiger Hut

Crossing the Ötztal Alps from west to east, this magnificent short trek is both strenuous and rewarding. There are two high passes to cross, exciting views of the highest Ötztal mountain (the Wildpsitze), glacier scenery of the very best, and three diverse mountain huts in which to stay overnight. The best time to tackle the traverse is from July to September. Snow will no doubt be encountered on some sections, ice is a possibility too, but in a normal summer neither crampons nor ice-axe are likely to be needed.

To reach the Gepatsch Haus to start this route, take the postbus from Landeck to Feichten via Prutz. At least two buses a day continue through the Kaunertal to the Gepatsch Haus which is set very close to the toll road at the southern end of the Gepatsch reservoir.

The Category II Gepatsch Haus (1925m) is a fine old inn-like building set among pine trees, with glimpsed views to the Gepatschferner glacier upvalley. It has 35 beds and 43 dormitory places, and is fully staffed from mid-June to the end of September (tel 0664 4319634).

Day 1 The first stage of the tour begins with a climb of 1170m to gain the Ölgrubenjoch, a pass located between the Hinterer Ölgruben-Spitze and the Ölgruben Kopf on the east side of the Kaunertal. The path to it is found about 200m south of the Gepatsch Haus where a sign beside the road indicates 3½–4hrs to the joch.

Climbing steeply at times, the trail twists up the hillside among shrubs, flowers and boulders, then swings right to a bluff with an ornate crucifix before making zigzags up to a junction after about 1½hrs. Ignore the right branch and continue ahead, rising alongside an old moraine to gain a rocky basin, with traces of glacier plastered on the face of the Hinterer Ölgruben-Spitze above a small lake. Waymarks and a few small cairns direct the onward route, with a final slope of rock and scree leading to the broad and stony Ölgrubenjoch (3095m) about 3½hrs from the start.

The view that greets you on arrival is magnificent, with the Wildspitze rising above a sea of ice and snow directing your attention a little south of east. Below lies the Taschachtal, with the Taschach Haus clearly seen to the north-east.

From the lowest part of the joch a marked route veers left along the top edge of a cliff, then descends glacial slabs and grit-covered ledges to a snowfield. Exercise caution as you make this descent. Then go down the snow to a rain gauge above and to the left of a small lake. A path now continues down moraines extravagant with alpine flowers, to a braiding of streams draining the Sexegertenferner. These streams will be lively with snow-melt during the afternoon, but whilst you will no doubt ford one or two of these, the trail will eventually bring you to a footbridge that enables you to cross the main stream just below the hut. Walk up the slope to gain the Taschach Haus about 5½–6hrs after leaving the Gepatsch Haus. Close views of the Taschachferner’s icefall make this a memorable place in which to spend the night.

The Taschach Haus (2434m) is invariably busy with climbers, for it is used as a base for a number of ascents, as well as climbing courses. Owned by the Frankfurt-am-Main section of the DAV, this Category I hut has 40 beds and 85 dormitory places, and is fully staffed from mid-June to the beginning of October (tel 0664 8368769).

Day 2 There are two ways to descend to Mittelberg at the head of the Pitztal before climbing to the Braunschweiger Hut: a direct route which follows the stream all the way, and an alternative which takes the highly scenic Fuldaer Höhenweg to the Riffelsee before descending steeply to Mittelberg. The recommended second option is described

The Taschachferner, seen from the Fuldaer Höhenweg

Begin the day by reversing yesterday’s trail of approach, then take the lower of two paths to cross the Taschachbach, after which the way climbs north-eastward as the Fuldaer Höhenweg. This magnificent walk takes you high above the valley with eye-watering views across to the cascading Taschachferner and its rim of glistening peaks. A truly great walk on a well-made path, a few sections are secured with fixed chains or cables, but places where protection is needed are few. The trail edges round rocky bluffs, meanders over meadows loud with marmots and starred with flowers, and crosses numerous streams before arriving at the Riffelsee (2232m) about 3hrs from the Taschach Haus. The Riffelsee Hut (refreshments) overlooks the lake from its south-eastern end.

The Riffelsee Hut (2293m) is a Category II refuge owned by the Frankfurt-am-Main section of the DAV. With 21 beds and 38 dormitory places, it’s fully staffed from mid-June to the end of September, and from mid-December to Easter for group bookings (tel 0664 3950062).

On the Pitztaler Jöchl above the Braunschweiger Hut

Unless you need refreshments here take a path breaking sharply to the right at a signed trail junction before reaching the lake, and descend steeply to a track leading to Mittelberg (3½hrs), which consists only of the Berghof Steinbock hotel (accommodation and refreshments Tel 05413 86238) and a small parking area at the start of the route to the Braunschweiger Hut.

Cross the bridge just beyond the hotel, and turn right along a track signed to the Gletscherstube (in 30mins) and Braunschweiger Hut (in 2½hrs). This track is invariably very busy with day visitors, most of whom venture no farther than the Gletscherstube (1891m, refreshments). The track ends at the hut’s goods lift, where a stony path continues heading south towards a waterfall pouring down a rock barrier. On reaching this barrier the path works its way up via ledges, weaving to and fro and almost into the spray from the waterfall.

The way eases, with glacier views growing in extent as you make progress. Then the gradient increases, you come to another rocky section, then a long uphill ramp of a path bordered by alpine plants. There are rocky staircases, and more switchbacks, and a final bit of effort required with the hut teasing above before you arrive at last at the Braunschweiger Hut, about 6–6½hrs after leaving the Taschach Haus.

From its rocky perch overlooking the receding Mittelbergferner north-west of the Wildspitze, the Braunschweiger Hut (2758m) is used by climbers as a base for tackling a number of 3000m peaks that rise above the glaciers. Crevasse rescue techniques are often practised nearby. This large Category I hut has 35 beds and 61 dormitory places, and is fully staffed from mid-June to the end of October (tel 0664 5353722).

Day 3 The final stage of the Ötztal Alps crossing involves a short climb to the Pitztaler Jöchl, followed by descent into a landscape sadly scarred by the ski industry, before you turn away from this on paths and tracks that lead down to Sölden.

The route to the Pitztaler Jöchl starts behind the hut with an undemanding ascent (ibex may be seen here) that brings you onto a rocky ridge giving a view of the Riffelsee backed by mountains of the Kaunergrat. The way scrambles along the ridge to the east, using natural ledges on the right of the crest where necessary, to gain the 2995m Pitztaler Jöchl, a narrow dip in a shattered ridge, about 1hr from the hut.

Descend with care to a small glacier/snowfield and wander down its left-hand edge to a car park at the head of the Ötztaler Gletscherstrasse which serves the Rettenbach ski area. Beyond the car park a path drops down a slope to join then cross a lower section of road, after which you follow the route of E5 taking you down to the milky-blue Rettenbach stream. Remain on the right bank until the track brings you onto the road again just below Rettenbach Alm (2145m, refreshments).

Walk down the road until, just before reaching a toll building, a path on the left leads down to the Stabele chairlift and a broad piste curving into forest. Wandering through the forest come to a footpath sign directing a way more steeply down the wooded slope, twice crossing the road and eventually coming into Sölden about 3½–4hrs from the Braunschweiger Hut.

Sölden (1377m) has all the usual tourist facilities, plenty of accommodation of all standards, and a tourist office in the town centre. Frequent buses travel down valley to link with mainline rail services at Ötztal Bahnhof.

WALKS IN THE KAUNERTAL

Much less busy than either the Pitztal or Ötztal, the Kaunertal nevertheless has plenty to offer the visiting walker.

• East of Feichten, for example, the Verpeiltal is worth exploring. The 2hr route to the charming Verpeil Hut may be steep for much of the way, but the hut’s setting in meadows at 2025m rewards your arrival, and if you spend a night there, you have the temptation to continue to viewpoints such as the 2532m Mooskopf (1½hrs) and the Madatsch Kopf (2783m) in 2hrs.
• More demanding than the above, is the 2½hr ascent (steep but not difficult) of the Schweikert, a modest rock peak of 2881m on the ridge west of the Hochrinnegg and northwest of the Verpeil Hut.
• For experienced mountain walkers a crossing of the Kaunergrat ridge to the Kaunergrat Hut and Plangeross in the Pitztal is possible via the 3010m Madatsch Joch below the Watzespitze. However, there’s a small glacier on the Kaunertal side, and if icy, crampons may be needed; 3hrs from the Verpeil Hut to the Kaunergrat Hut, or 5½–6hrs to Plangeross.

WALKS IN THE PITZTAL

Stretching north for some 38km from Mittelberg at the roadhead to where it spills into the Inn’s valley at Imst, the Pitztal has plenty of walks to consider. The following is just a small sample.

• On the west side of the Pitztal a little south of Trenkwald, the Lorbachtal is a small hanging valley below the Vorpeilspitze. In it lies the little Mittelberglesee at 2450m. A path takes you there from Trenkwald to give a pleasant round trip of 4½–5hrs.
• From Plangeross the 2hr walk up to the Rüsselsheimer Hut at 2323m is steep, but the switchback path has been so well-made that the effort needed for the 700m or so of height gain is less than one might fear. And the hut’s outlook, especially across the valley to the Watzespitze is splendid.
• The Mainzer Höhenweg is generally reckoned to be one of the finest long walks in the Ötztal Alps – allow 9–10hrs. Beginning at the Rüsselsheimer Hut it climbs southeast to the 2959m Weissmaurach Joch, then works a way southward along the ridge (fixed cables in places) skirting some summits, crossing others. The 3247m Wassertalkogel is the highest, with the bright orange Rheinland-Pfalz Bivouac Hut nearby, and a fabulous panoramic view to make you want to linger. An easy descent south takes the route over the Gschrappkogel (3191m) and continues south before veering southeast and eventually coming down to the Ötztaler Gletscherstrasse, with a long and tiring walk down to Sölden to finish, as described in the final stages of Walk 15.
• From the top of the Riffelsee gondola (the valley station is at Mandarfen) the Cottbuser Höhenweg is a narrow path which, heading north, crosses the steep flanks of the Brandkogel and Steinkogel before swinging west above the Plangerosstall and eventually joining the standard approach to the Kaunergrat Hut. Allow at least 4hrs from the Riffelsee, but note there are some sections of fixed cable, and easy scrambling is required in places.
• Also from the Riffelsee (reached in 2½hrs from Mandarfen, or by gondola if you prefer) the Fuldaer Höhenweg is a highly recommended trail leading in 3½hrs to the Taschach Haus. It is described in reverse as part of Route 15 above.