Walking in Austria

Start/Finish	Mayrhofen (633m)
Distance	75km
Grade	3
Time	8–9 days
Location	A clockwise tour of the Zillertal, starting from Mayrhofen
Highest point	Schönbichler Scharte (3081m)

This is a well-established hut-to-hut tour, also known as the Zillertaler Rundtour. At least half the route is used by the Berliner Höhenweg described above – but in the opposite direction. As may be imagined, the tour is quite demanding, but the scenery is spectacular, and the huts comfortable and welcoming. A full route description is contained in Allan Hartley’s highly recommended guide devoted to the route, Trekking in the Zillertal Alps (Cicerone Press), in which the author calls the tour the ‘Zillertal Rucksack Route’.

Day 1 The first stage climbs southeastward from Mayrhofen to the Edel Hut (2238m), some 600m above the town on the slopes of the Ahornspitze. All but the purist will ease this ascent by riding the Ahornbahn cable-car to Filzen Alm at 1955m and walking from there to the hut (1–1½hrs), thus saving at least 2½hrs of uphill climbing. If you’ve just arrived in Mayrhofen with the intention of tackling the route as soon as possible, the Ahornbahn makes good sense.

Day 2 A long day’s effort, with much height gain and loss and plenty of fixed cables where the terrain could be difficult, takes the höhenweg high above the Stillupgrund to the Kasseler Hut (2178m) under the valley’s curving headwall. This is a stage of 8–10hrs, depending on conditions underfoot and fitness of the party. With a whole series of ridge spurs to cross, plus some serious rock- and boulder-hopping, it can be a tiring stage, but the landscape maintains interest throughout.

Day 3 A much easier stage than that of Day 2, the route traces the Zentralalpenweg below the Stillupgrund headwall. Heading roughly westward it crosses the rocky 2701m Lapenscharte on the ridge forming the east wall of the Floitengrund, before descending to the Greizer Hut (2227m) in 6hrs.

Day 4 The day begins with a descent of almost 400m to a footbridge spanning the torrent draining the Floitenkees glacier. Frustratingly, that gives a 1000m climb up the west flank of the valley to reach the 2872m Mörchenscharte, negotiating a 5m length of ladder and fixed ropes on the way. The pass slices the ridge linking the Grosser Mörchner with the Zsigmondyspitze, and once over it the way descends past the Schwarzsee (beautiful views from the tarn’s north shore looking south to the glacier-hung Hornspitze), and easily down to the Berliner Hut (2042m) at the head of the Zemmgrund – about 7–8hrs.

Day 5 Reversing Day 4 of the Berliner Höhenweg, several streams are crossed below the Zemmgrund headwall as the route works its way up and over glacial debris towards the highest point on the tour, the 3081m Schönbichler Scharte. The final approach to the col is steep, rocky, and aided by fixed cable, and the initial descent on the western side is often plastered with snow or ice. On the continuing descent to the Furtschaglhaus (2293m, 7½–8hrs), views are exciting to the Grosser Möseler and Hochfeiler, with the glacial apron of the Schlegeiskees draped between them.

Day 6 A mostly easy walk, but with a sting in the tail; it begins with a descent to the southern end of the Schlegeis reservoir, followed by a gentle stroll along a track above the west bank. This leads to a road at the far end of the reservoir, from where a 580m climb leads to the Olperer Hut, which looks back across the valley of approach from its 2388m perch. After a 5hr walk, this is a splendid hut in which to relax and take stock of the route so far.

Day 7 A pleasant 3hr walk high above the valley takes the höhenweg northeastward to its highest hut, the 2477m Friesenberghaus, below the Friesenberg tarn on the slopes of the Hoher Riffler.

Day 8 This penultimate day of the Zillertaler Höhenweg is long and, in places, a rough stage of 8hrs or so, during which the scenery changes dramatically. Once again reversing the Berliner Höhenweg, there are several alms to visit, spurs to cross, much more vegetation than on any previous stage, and the distinct possibility of sighting chamois and marmots. At the end of the day you arrive at the Gams Hut (1921m), more than 580m lower than the Friesenberghaus.

Day 9 The final stage is virtually downhill all the way, on the Herman-Hecht-Weg to Finkenberg, 3km from Mayrhofen.