Hohe Tauern peaks seen across the Zeller See
Romantically situated on the west shore of the Zeller See and backed by the Schmittenhöhe, Zell am See is one of the most popular of holiday destinations, not only in the Kitzbüheler Alps, but in all of Austria. Compact and picturesque, the town almost spills into the lake on a spit of land below wooded hills. Across the lake to the east rise the gentle green heights of the Hundstein. The majestic, snowy spire of the Kitzsteinhorn raises its signature to the south, while the impressive wall of the Steinernes Meer in the north can appear seductive to walkers with plenty of time at their disposal. In winter and summer alike the resort throngs with visitors. It has all facilities, is served by mainline train from Innsbruck and Salzburg, and has access to several neighbouring valleys. But it has to be admitted that the walking potential in the immediate surroundings is somewhat limited in scope.
Hohe Tauern peaks seen across the Zeller See
| Start | Zell am See (750m) |
| Distance | 11km |
| Height gain | Negligible |
| Grade | 1 |
| Time | 2½–3hrs |
| Location | Around the Zeller See |
Here’s a walk that makes no demands, yet has its own undeniable attractions, including lovely views and no shortage of refreshment opportunities. It’s one that could be walked at any time, especially when higher routes should be avoided because of bad conditions. But tackled early on a calm summer’s morning – or in the evening – this lake circuit has a tranquil, dreamlike quality, for the crystal waters of the Zeller See mirror the surrounding mountains undisturbed by day-time activity. The shoreline is not accessible everywhere, although you’re never far from it. On the eastern side, Thumersbach is a small village with neat public gardens and a ferry link with Zell, while at the southern end of the lake the route passes through a marshy area (the Zeller Moos) protected as a nature reserve. Being a circular route it could be tackled in either direction, but on this occasion it is described as a clockwise walk, beginning and ending near Zell’s Grand Hotel which virtually projects its imposing edifice into the lake.
Approaching the Grand Hotel from the heart of Zell am See, turn left on a broad tarmac path beside the railway line; before you’ve gone far the lake is edged by a neat greensward. Heading north, the distant wall of the Steinernes Meer above Saalfelden, which carries the Bavarian border, represents the unfailingly attractive chain of the Northern Limestone Alps, on which the evening light can be extremely colourful.
Little more than 30mins will be required to reach the northern end of the lake where the path curves eastward. At first among trees and shrubs, the way then goes through a marshy area of reeds and alder before reaching the Zell am See Yacht Club with its small marina. Skirt the boundary of a campsite, remaining along the lake shore, but shortly after passing the campsite restaurant the way veers left to the Zell–Thumersbach road opposite Gasthof Wieshof. Turn right along the road and follow it into Thumersbach (55mins).
In the heart of the village you come to a crossroads with a stream draining the horseshoe of hills behind it. A short stroll to the right leads to shady public gardens, café/restaurants, and the lakeside jetty from where it’s possible to catch a ferry back to Zell.
Continue along the road through Thumersbach, on the south side of which you pass several hotels and restaurants. A short distance beyond Restaurant Konigshof (1½hrs) turn right by a football pitch. At the end of a parking area join a footpath (the Thomas-Bernhard-Weg) which takes you through the Zeller Moos nature reserve, bordered by tall reeds at the southern end of the Zeller See.
On the western side of the nature reserve you reach the first houses of Schüttdorf and continue ahead, passing more refreshment facilities and a residential area. At a minor crossroads by the railway line, turn right, and 5mins later come to the southwestern corner of the lake. Now follow the lakeside path ahead to the Grand Hotel in Zell am See.
The Zeller See