| Start | Griesenau (720m) |
| Distance | 5km (one way) |
| Height gain | 266m |
| Grade | 1 |
| Time | 1½hrs (+ 1hr return) |
| Location | Northwest of Kirchdorf |
The Kaiserbachtal slices into the eastern half of the Kaisergebirge mountains, forming a counter-balance to the Kaisertal on the other side of the Stripsenjoch’s dividing ridge. But while the Kaisertal is largely wooded, the Kaiserbachtal is much more open, with the great upthrusting crags of the Wilder Kaiser looking dramatically impressive from the valley-bed trails. A toll road pushes into the valley as far as Griesner Alm, but this outing is so gentle, undemanding but rewarding, that to take a vehicle when you could walk seems almost sacriligeous. There’s a large car park by the toll booths at the entrance to the valley, but the few buildings of Griesenau are served by public transport from St Johann, with a bus stop at Gasthof Griesenau where the walk begins.
Gasthof Griesenau is open both winter and summer, with 46 beds (tel 05352 64180 gasthof-griesenau@aon.at; www.griesenau.com), and is conveniently placed for an exploration of the Kaiserbachtal, or for touring the neighbourhood.
The road into the Kaiserbachtal begins opposite Gasthof Griesenau northwest of Kirchdorf. Walk along the road between meadows for 5–10mins. When it crosses a bridge over the Kaiserbach shortly before reaching the large car park and toll booths, leave the road and walk ahead on a broad gravel path on the south bank of the stream. A large board advertising the Alpengasthof Griesner Alm suggests the walk will take 75mins.
No detailed description is necessary, since the path remains on the south bank (left side) of the Kaiserbach all the way to the head of the valley, either through or alongside luxuriant mixed woodland, but as you progress upvalley, views of the Wilder Kaiser peaks become more and more impressive.
About 10mins from the road bridge another route breaks to the left, climbing to Maukalm (in 4hrs) and Gasteig in 3½hrs. About 40mins later a bridge spanning the river provides an opportunity to cross to the 200 year-old Alpengasthof Fischbachalm (840m) for refreshments.
Alpengasthof Fischbachalm is an attractive, archetypal Tyrolean farmhouse with magnificent views to the head of the Kaiserbachtal. With 30 beds it is open winter and summer (tel 05352 65526 fischbachalm@aon.at; www.fischbachalm.at).
Just 1min beyond the bridge you pass a small chapel dedicated to climbers who lost their lives in the mountains, and from here you may be able to see the flag flying at the Stripsenjochhaus.
About 10mins later a narrow path cuts left to the Larcheneggspitze (3hrs) and the unmanned Fritz-Pflaum Hut, about 2½hrs from this point. Shortly after this junction the trail forks. Ignore the right branch and continue ahead, curving uphill and eventually coming to a signed junction. Cross the stream to Griesner Alm (986m) and the roadhead.
Alpengasthof Griesner Alm stands at the foot of the Stripsenjoch, with the Predigstuhl and Mitterkaiser bursting out of the woods just to the south. The gasthof is open in winter and summer, and has 38 beds (tel 05352 64443 griesneralm@aon.at; www.griesneralm.com).