The Gosaukamm peaks, viewed from near Sulzenchied
| Start/Finish | Filzmoos (Hofalm: 1268m) |
| Distance | 23km |
| Grade | 3 |
| Time | 2 days |
| Location | A counter-clockwise tour of the Gosaukamm north of Filzmoos |
| Highest point | Steigl Pass (2016m) |
This understandably popular two-day tour of the Gosaukamm (the so-called Salzburg Dolomites) is the most celebrated route in the Dachsteingebirge. Although not unduly arduous, the crossing of the Steigl Pass involves some scrambling aided by fixed cables, and with a modest amount of exposure. In his Mountain Walking in Austria, Cecil Davies described the route beginning with a ride on the Gosaukammbahn cable car above the Gosausee on the northern side of the range, and that, of course, will be the choice of those based on that side of the mountain. In which case, you should join the following description at the Gablonzer Hut at the start of Day 2.
Day 1 From the Hofalm roadhead cross two footbridges to reach the alm restaurant of Unterhofalm, from where you join path no 612 signed to the Hofpürgl Hut. Across a stony streambed the path rises over grass slopes, before the gradient steepens with the trail twisting up to dwarf pine and alpenroses. A path junction about 200m from the Hofpürgl Hut is gained in 50mins or so from the roadhead.
Turn right on the Linzer Weg which heads towards the shapely Bischofsmütze, negotiates screes and a spur with more dwarf pine and alpenroses, and comes to another path junction at about 1720m. Take the upper branch (path no 612) which zigzags up the stony slope towards the Gosaukamm’s crags, where the way continues over ledges and up steps (fixed cables) with modest exposure to gain the Steigl Pass (2016m, 1¾–2hrs) with its wonderful views to north and south, while the Bischofsmütze rises to the west, and the Steiglkogel to the east.
On the northern side of the pass the trail makes an initial gentle descent over sections of limestone pavement, then down steps and a brief gully before curving northwest to pass below the Gabelkogel. The route exchanges rock for pinewoods, then, standing on what was once an alm, you’ll see a memorial chapel recalling those who have lost their lives in the mountains. After this wander past two or three huts and gain a view of the Gosausee about 400m below. The path goes down in zigzags, but as you descend keep alert for a junction where you leave path no 612 (which descends to the Gosautal) and take the left branch, a faint trail contouring across the slope to reach path no 620 – the main linking route between the Gosausee and the Gablonzer Hut. Here you turn left and climb steeply at first, then on a track which brings you to the Gablonzer Hut (1522m, 5½hrs) and the end of the first stage of the tour.
The Gosaukamm peaks, viewed from near Sulzenchied
Day 2 Leaving the hut, the way follows the Austriaweg, climbing briefly to the Obere Törlecksattel, just 72m above the hut, then on to a second, lower, saddle at 1575m (the Untere Torlecksattel) where there’s a junction offering an uncomplicated route to the Grosse Donnerkogel, a noted viewpoint at 2054m. However, the Gosaukamm tour ignores this and descends to the Stuhlalm where there’s a privately-owned hut.
The Stuhlalm Hut (1450m) has 4 beds and 40 dormitory places, and is open from mid-May to the end of October (tel 06463 8416).
Now on a broad track you shortly arrive at the idyllic Theodor-Körner Hut (1466m, 1½hrs, accommodation and refreshments). Unless you need accommodation or refreshment it’s not essential to go this far, for about 100m short of the hut the Austriaweg trail breaks away, heading southeast towards the Bischofsmütze and signed to the Hofpürgl Hut.
After making a short descent, the way then climbs a gully with fixed cable safeguards, among impressive (if slightly intimidating) rock scenery to gain the Jöchl, a little pass at 1610m. This marks the end of any perceived difficulties, for you now cross several meadows on an undulating course at the base of the Gosaukamm cliffs and with expanding views to less dramatic, but no less beautiful country spreading south. Curving below the Bischofsmütze you cross a shoulder to see the Hofpürgl Hut perched on a ridge ahead. The path goes directly to it, arriving about 4hrs after you set out from the Gablonzer Hut.
To return to Filzmoos, simply reverse the first part of the route taken on Day 1.