Tour 11 : Excursion to Boars Hill
About six miles (9.6 km) southwest of Oxford is Boars Hill, once famed for its panoramic view of the spires of Oxford, but now notable as a retreat from the hectic city centre
Highlights
The suburbs of Oxford spread out over a wide area since the city has expanded in ribbon fashion along the main communications arteries, north, south, east and west. To the south of Oxford, beyond the ring road, large houses line the complex narrow lanes that lead to Boars Hill, an historic hamlet that offers welcome respite from the tourist crowds. The hill was long renowned for its fine views – such was the pressure of development that the Oxford Preservation Trust purchased the remaining land in 1928 to ensure that the views would not be destroyed. Despite the Trust’s efforts, however, many of the original views of the city are now obscured by new development, although glimpses of the dreaming spires can still be caught as you head uphill. But Boars Hill remains a pleasant destination in its own right, and its traditional country pubs and hotels reward the effort of the hike there.
Getting There
The simplest way to travel to Boars Hill 1 [map] is by bus. The No. 44 bus route (Heydordian) takes you from St Aldate’s in Oxford city centre all the way there. Of course, if you are feeling energetic, you could also comfortably walk or cycle there and back in a day. Just continue down St Aldate’s and on to its extension – the Abingdon Road (A4144) – until you find the turning on your right for Lake Street. At the bottom of this road, you will find a path that takes you west to the village of South Hinksey. On the far side of the village, more footpaths then take you cross-country to Boars Hill. A detailed walking map might come in handy.
Jarn Mound
Traditionally, the best place to enjoy the views at Boars Hill was the top of Jarn Mound, which rises up 50ft (15m) with a summit 530ft (162m) above sea level. However, new development in the city and mature trees (when in leaf) mean that the views are not what they once were. The artificial mound is of historical note, though – its construction was undertaken by the Oxford Preservation Trust and a Boars Hill resident, Sir Arthur Evans – famous for his archaeological discoveries at Knossos in Crete.
The intention was partly to provide work for the local unemployed during a period of economic depression, and partly to create a vantage point from where to admire Oxford’s series of dreaming spires. It was completed in 1931 and the surrounding area planted with trees to create a wild garden. Unfortunately, it is now overgrown with bracken and scrub, and the topograph on the summit has gone, the column on which it stood broken. At various stages on the way up, however, there are good views of the city’s spires. And if you go at dusk, the setting sun adds its own rich colouring to the scene. Turn round and you see another extensive view, stretching southwest over the Vale of the White Horse to the Berkshire Downs.
Eating Out
Fox Inn
Fox Lane, Boars Hill; tel: 01865 989 221; daily noon–11pm.
This rambling timber-beamed inn on the edge of the Boars Hill village offers a traditional English pub atmosphere, with a roaring fire, regulars at the bar and a lived-in appearance. The food is standard pub fare and there is a beer garden for the summer months. £–££
Westwood Country Hotel
Hinksey Hill, near Boars Hill; tel: 01865 735 408; www.westwoodhotel.co.uk; Mon–Thurs 6.30–9.30pm.
The Oaks Restaurant located within this peaceful hotel set in beautiful grounds serves competently executed modern European dishes. ££–£££