Piazza della Bocca della Verità and around
Santa Maria in Trastevere and around
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Panificio Disa (Via San Giovanni in Laterano 64, 00184; closed Sun) sells excellent focaccia bread, pizza and sandwiches. Pick up a picnic lunch and eat it in the park at Villa Celimontana or at the small playground on Largo della Sanità Militare.
Caffetteria Faiola (Via Celimontana 6–8, 00184; 06 7049 2953; open daily) is a charming café, with a lovely outdoor seating area, serving excellent pizzas and sandwiches. The staff is friendly and attentive.
Bibenda Wine Concept (Via Capo d’Africa 21, 00184; 06 7720 6673; closed Sun), a contemporary wine bar, offers toasted sandwiches for kids while adults can try carpaccio of Chianina steak or plates of hot melted cheese with grilled vegetables.
Caffè Propaganda (Via Claudia 15, 00184; 06 9453 4255; closed Mon) is an expensive restaurant-café-bar with a great buzz. Try the broccoli soufflé with pecorino cheese and organic tomato sauce, frittata with seasonal vegetables, gourmet hamburgers, sandwiches and home-made hot chocolate.
SISA (Via dei SS Quattro 67, 00184; 06 709 6347; 8am–8pm Mon–Sat, 8am–1:30pm Sun) is the ideal place to pick up a delicious picnic lunch to eat at Villa Celimontana.
Hostaria i Clementini (Via San Giovanni in Laterano 106, 00184; 06 4542 6395; www.iclementini.it; open daily) offers Roman specialities such as spaghetti alla carbonara (with bacon and egg) or spaghetti cacio e pepe (with ewes’ cheese and black pepper).
Made in Sud (Via San Giovanni in Laterano 46, 00184; 06 7045 4900) offers tasty fried goodies to take away.
Naumachia (Via Celimontana 7, 00184; 06 700 2764; www.naumachiaroma.com) serves traditional Italian cuisine, including a delicious cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper) pasta.
Papagiò (Via Capo d’Africa 26, 00184; 06 700 9800; closed Sun) serves excellent spaghetti papagiò (with seafood; oven-baked in a paper parcel) and sea bass baked with potatoes and artichokes.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Santeo (Via di San Teodoro 88, 00186; 06 6992 0945; open daily) is famous for its profiteroles, mont blanc (chestnut and whipped cream dessert), mousses, jewel-coloured macaroons and quiches. Enjoy a picnic on the slopes of the Circus Maximus.
Zerosettantacinque (Via dei Cerchi 65, 00186; 06 687 5706; open daily) is a friendly bar great for a light lunch of salad, pizza, stuffed focaccia or piadine (Italian flatbread).
Anima Mundi (Via del Velabro 1, 00186; 06 9603 0061; open daily) offers simple lunches of lasagne, melanzane parmigiana (baked aubergine with parmesan cheese), salads and delicious desserts such as tiramisù.
Il Bocconcino (Via Ostilia 23, 00184; 06 7707 9175; www.ilbocconcino.com; closed Wed) is a popular and relaxed little restaurant where the emphasis is on local dishes made from carefully sourced seasonal ingredients.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Pizza e Mortadella (Via Cavour 279, 00184; open daily) offers all the ingredients for a gourmet picnic including crisp pizza slices, stuffed focaccia, roast chicken, lasagne, grilled vegetables, cheeses, hams and salamis and mouthwatering cakes and tarts. Put together a picnic lunch and head to the Parco del Colle Oppio or to the Monte Caprino park.
Daruma Sushi (Via dei Serpenti 1, 00184; 06 4893 1003; www.darumasushi.com; closed Sun lunch) serves a variety of sushi, sashimi, miso soup and noodles. The restaurant also offers free delivery services to many hotels.
La Bottega del Caffè (Piazza Madonna dei Monti 5, 00184; 06 474 1578; open daily) is a bustling bistro and café located at the heart of Monti, the area behind the Fori Imperiali, and has plenty of outdoor tables and space on the piazza for children to play.
Cavour 313 (Via Cavour 313, 00184; 06 678 5496; summer: closed Sun) began as a wine bar and developed into a restaurant. Its modern European dishes such as cannelloni with wild chicory, anchovies, ricotta and chilli, and couscous with beef, prunes and almonds, reflect what is fresh in the market. The restaurant also offers a selection of carpaccios, cheeses, hams and salamis, salads and wines.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Pizzicheria (Via de’ Delfini 25, 00186; 06 679 3001; closed Sat pm) is an old-fashioned alimentari (grocery store) that offers a deli counter and fresh bread. Buy a picnic lunch and eat it on the Aracoeli staircase.
Antico Caffè del Teatro Marcello (Via del Teatro di Marcello 42, 00186; 06 678 5451; open daily), located across the road from the Monte Caprino park, has a tempting range of sandwiches and pastries.
Trattoria Ara Coeli (Piazza dell’Ara Coeli 5, 00186; 06 679 2491) is a simple trattoria serving hearty Roman dishes prepared with ingredients of the highest quality. Try the delicious pasta alla carbonara and cacio e pepe (cheese and pepper).
La Taverna degli Amici (Piazza Margana 36–7, 00186; 06 6992 0637; closed Sun pm & Mon am) is located on a pretty little square. Specialities include zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta, ossobuco (braised veal shanks) and tagliata (thinly sliced rare steaks).
Kosher Delight (Via del Portico d'Ottavia 12, 00186; closed Fri pm & Sat) is a kosher deli. Buy cold cuts (bresaola or carne secca), hummus, and challah bread and eat by the ruins of the Teatro Marcello.
Caffè Capitolino (Piazza Caffarelli 4, 00187; 06 6919 0564; Tue–Sun), located on the top floor of the Palazzo dei Conservatori and accessed via the museum or, for non-ticket holders, from the Piazza Caffarelli entrance, opens on to a roof terrace with lovely views. The café serves panini, salads, simple pasta dishes and mains.
Cin Cin Bar (Via C Battisti 129, 00187; open daily) is a great place to munch on sausage- and potato-pie or a plate of baked pasta.
Pane Vino e San Daniele (Piazza Mattei 16, 00186; 06 687 7147; open daily) specializes in polenta with pheasant ragù (ragout) and potatoes baked with mushrooms and cheese.
The café on the terrace (Via San Pietro in Carcere & Piazza Aracoeli, 00187; 06 678 0905; open daily) serves milkshakes and sandwiches, and is a nice place for breakfast or a snack.
Da Giggetto (Via del Portico di Ottavia 21–22, 00186; 06 686 1105; closed Mon) serves Jewish-Roman specialities such as deep-fried artichokes and coda di vaccinara (oxtail stew).
Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi (Via Santa Maria del Pianto 11, 00186; Tue–Sun) is known for its home-made cheese and its Italian salami and hams.
Caffè Ducati (Via delle Botteghe Oscure 35, 00186; 06 6889 1718; open daily) serves pastries for breakfast, light lunches and cocktails in the evening.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Carlo Polica (Via dei Serpenti 150–151, 00184; closed Thu pm & Sun) is one of Rome’s oldest delis and offers salami, cured meats and cheeses from all over Italy. Pick up gourmet sandwiches and head to Villa Aldobrandini for a picnic lunch.
Bar Tavola Calda La Licata (Via dei Serpenti 165, 00184; 06 488 4746) is a popular bar-café which serves great sandwiches, including vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options.
Taverna Romana (Via Madonna dei Monti 78, 00184; 06 4745 3253; closed Sun pm) is an authentic place for a traditional lunch of pasta e ceci (with chickpeas), pasta e fagioli (with beans) or maltagliati con ricotta fresca (“badly cut” pasta with fresh ricotta). Meat dishes include slow-cooked guinea fowl.
Osteria Corte del Grillo (Salita del Grillo 6B, 00184; 06 6992 2183; www.cortedelgrillo.com; open daily lunch & dinner) is a fine restaurant where they demonstrate the freshness of their fish by serving it raw; cooked fish is served as well. Select a fish and the chef will bake it in a crust of salt, poach it in broth, roast or grill it.
Ciuri Ciuri (Via Leonina 18–20, 00184; 06 4544 4548; open daily) offers Sicilian food such as panelle (chickpea flour fritters) and arancini (stuffed rice croquettes).
La Bottega del Caffè is a bustling bistro that is great for a light lunch.
Caffé Costantino (Via IV Novembre 142, 00187; 06 6785491; open 7am–8pm Mon–Sat) is a simple café serving toasted sandwiches, antipasti and pasta.
La Carbonara (Via Panisperna 214, 00184; 06 4825176; closed Sun) offers traditional Italian dishes such as coda all vaccinara (oxtail in tomato sauce) and salt-cured cod cooked with organic ingredients.
Super Elite (Via Cavour, 232, 00184) is a good supermarket that sells all the essentials for a sumptuous picnic by the Forum.
La Vecchia Roma (Via Leonina 10, 00184; 06 474 5887; closed Sun) is a lovely traditional place with daily specials written on a board outside. Let the children try the scottadito (literally finger-burning) lamb chops.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Panificio Disa (Via San Giovanni in Laterano 64, 00184; closed Sun) offers focaccia and pizza. Pick up a picnic lunch and eat it at the park of Villa Celimontana.
Caffetteria Faiola (Via Celimontana 6–8, 00184; 06 7049 2953; open daily) serves excellent pizzas and sandwiches. The staff is friendly and attentive.
Trattoria Luzzi (Via Celimontana 1, 00184; 06 709 6332; closed Wed) is an extremely popular, relatively low-priced trattoria which serves thin-crust pizzas and traditional Roman dishes such as rigatoni amatriciana, pasta e fagioli and coda di vaccinara.
Li Rioni (Via dei SS Quattro 24, 00184; 06 7045 0605; open pm only; closed Tue) specializes in thin-crust pizzas made in a wood-fired oven. It also offers fried food such as crochette di pollo (chicken croquettes) or crochette di patate (potato croquettes) and olive ascolane (deep-fried, breaded stuffed olives).
Made in Sud (Via San Giovanni in Laterano 46, 00184; 06 7045 4900; closed Mon pm) serves delicious fried delicacies.
Os Club (Via delle Terme di Traiano 4/a, 00184; 06 4893 0379; closed Mon) is a smart, contemporary oasis in a garden, ideal for a special tea, dinner or a relaxed Sunday brunch.
Panella (Largo Leopardi 2, 00185; 06 487 2651; open daily) is a chic delicatessen-café that serves fabulous breads, grissini, pizzas, pastries, savoury strudels, Greek cheese pies, salads and vegetables to eat in or take away.
Tempio di Mecenate (Largo Leopardi 14, 00185; 06 487 2653; open daily) is the place for a simple pasta dish, or a main course of hearty sausages or chicken with peppers.
Pizza e Mortadella (Via Cavour 279, 00184; open daily) sells pizza, roast chicken, salamis, cakes and tarts. Picnic at Parco del Colle Oppio.
Cuoco e Camicia (Via M Polacco 2/4, 00184; 06 8892 2987; www.cuocoecamicia.it; closed Sat lunch and Sun) offers a lunch of tagliolini (Italian egg noodles) with prawns and courgettes or a hearty soup of chickpeas and sausage.
Nuovo Mercato Esquilino (Via Principe Amedeo, 00185; closed Sun) stocks picnic supplies. Enjoy a picnic lunch in the garden of Piazza Vittorio.
Hang Zhou (Via Principe Eugenio, 82, 00185; 06 487 2732; open daily) serves Chinese food, noodles and spring rolls.
Palazzo del Freddo (Via Principe Eugenio 65, 00185; 06 446 4740; closed Mon) offers great ice creams and desserts. Eat in the gardens of Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II.
Il Pane (Via di San Martino ai Monti 26, 00184; closed Sun) offers bread, pizza bianca and groceries.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Coop (Via Marsala 60, 00185; open daily) sells all that is needed for a picnic lunch at the gardens of the Baths of Diocletian.
W.O.K. (Stazione Centrale Roma Termini, Via Marsala, 00185; open daily) is good for a quick meal of Oriental noodles, rice dishes, Thai curry or samosas.
Himalaya’s Kashmir (Via Principe Amedeo 325–327, 00185; 06 446 1072; open daily for lunch and dinner) serves Indian snacks and dishes such as samosas, tandoori chicken and a generous thali with meat and vegetable dishes, rice, naan and raita.
Trimani Il Wine Bar (Via Cernaia 37/B, 00185; 06 446 9630; Mon–Sat) is an elegant but relaxed wine bar, great for a light lunch or full meal. Try the quiche with escarole spiked with flecks of prune, or a tartare of Piedmontese beef with shards of pungent Castelmagno cheese. Crispy polenta with warm salami might be a hit with the kids.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Nuovo Mercato Esquilino (Via Principe Amedeo 184, 00185; closed Sun) offers yummy treats from fruits and vegetables to cured meats and cheese. Grab a bite to eat and head for one of the piazza’s many benches.
Pietro Roscioli (Via Buonarroti 46, 00185; 06 446 7146; closed Sun) sells fresh bread, pizza by the slice and other tasty fare.
Antica Osteria Angelino dal 1899 (Via Capo d’Africa 6, 00185; 06 6476 4663) serves traditional Roman dishes such as Cacio e Pepe and Saltimbocca alla Romana (sautéed rolls of veal, prosciutto and sage)
Trattoria da Danilo (Via Petrarca 13, 00185; 06 7720 0111; www.trattoriadadanilo.it; closed Sun, Mon dinner only) dishes out pasta treats such as gnocchetti with pistachio nuts and bacon, as well as a marvellous antipasto spread. Try the fried cod and fried anchovies.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Pizzicheria (Via dei Delfini 25, 00186; 06 679 3001; closed Sat pm) has a deli counter and fresh bread. Pick up a picnic lunch and head to the Monte Caprino park.
Antico Caffè del Teatro Marcello (Via del Teatro di Marcello 42, 00186; 06 678 5451; open daily) is perfect for a quick breakfast or a superior sandwich lunch.
Sora Margherita (Piazza delle Cinque Scole 30, 00186; 06 687 4216; closed Sun, Tue dinner & alternate Thu) is a lively, old-fashioned trattoria with no written menu.
Ba’ Ghetto (Via del Portico d’Ottavia 57, 00186; 06 6889 2868; closed Fri pm & Sat am) is a refined place serving what many judge to be the best Jewish food in Rome. Try the deep-fried artichokes, the deftly spiced shish kebabs or the salt cod Roman-Jewish style.
Alimentari Giacomini (Viale Aventino 106, 00153; closed Sun) has a deli counter. Pick up sandwiches and head back to the Circus Maximus for a picnic.
Bar dei Cerchi (Via dei Cerchi 49, 00153) is a friendly, simple espresso bar that also serves pastries and hearty sandwiches.
Gusto Massimo (Via del Circo Massimo 5a, 00153; 06 574 5762; open daily) serves pasta and is perfect for a family meal.
Court Delicati (Viale Aventino 41, 00153; 06 574 6108; closed Mon) is one of Rome’s best Chinese restaurants.
Volpetti (Via Marmorata 47A, 00153; 06 574 2352; closed Sun) offers goodies such as goats cheese with crystallized papaya and hams that melt on the tongue.
Eataly (Piazzale XII Ottobre 1492, 00153; 06 9027 9201; open daily) is a fourstorey food market with a dozen restaurants serving great Italian food.
Volpetti offers uncommon delights such as gorgonzola steeped in sweet wine, delicious hams and golden crusted pies of ricotta and spinach.
Volpetti Più (Via Alessandro Volta 8, 00153; closed Sun; www.volpetti.com) is one of the finest self-service joints in town. Sample the delicious food, which includes dishes such as tonno alla cacciatora (tuna with rosemary, garlic and chilli), roast chicken, rare roast beef, black rice with grilled vegetables and red rice with chickpeas and rosemary, and finish with the pears in red wine or the baked apples.
Pasticceria Andreotti (Via Ostiense 54, 00154; 06 575 0773; open daily; www.andreottiroma.it) sells cornetti and snacks.
Felice (Via Mastro Giorgio 29, 00153; 06 574 6800; open daily) serves hearty testarelle d’abbacchio (lamb sweetbreads) and sausage with pork rind and peas.
Cornetteria Due (Via Ostiense 94, 00154; 06 574 3913; 24 hrs daily) is perfectly placed for a sandwich, pastry and coffee.
Al Biondo Tevere (Via Ostiense 174, 00154; closed Tue) serves simple Roman cuisine such as amatriciana as well as other meat and fish specialities. There is a lovely terrace which affords scenic views of the Tiber.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Carrefour Express (Piazza Nicosia 35, 00186; open daily) offers basic provisions. Pick up a picnic lunch and eat it at the piazza.
Casa e Bottega Café (Via dei Coronari 183, 00186; 06 686 4358; open daily) is a welcoming café, perfect for breakfast, a light lunch or an afternoon tea of dainty sandwiches and biscuits. Kids will enjoy a typical Italian merenda (snack) – hot chocolate with cream, biscuits and fruit, or fresh fruit juice with yogurt.
Da Tonino (Via del Governo Vecchio 18–19, 00186; 06 908 6508; closed Sun) is a cheerful trattoria offering gargantuan portions of pasta, crisp roast potatoes, simple grilled steaks and veal stew with mushrooms and peas.
La Rosetta (Via Della Rosetta 8/9, 00186; 06 686 1002) is one of the finest seafood restaurants in Rome. Located in the heart of the historical centre, it serves an excellent variety of raw fish dishes, prepared with the freshest seasonal ingredients, and a fabulous lobster linguine.
Caffè Sant’Eustachio (Piazza Sant’Eustachio 82, 00186; 06 6880 2048; open daily) has excellent pastries and an inviting display of hot and cold lunch dishes, ideal to tempt kids with. Enjoy a picnic lunch on the stairs to the church.
Ciuri Ciuri (Largo del Teatro Valle 1–2, 00186; 06 9826 2284; open daily) serves Sicilian street food.
Caffé Argentina (Largo Di Torre Argentina 51, 00186; 06 679 2371) serves good cappuccinos and delicious sandwiches.
RosticceRì (Corso del Rinascimento 83–85, 00186; 06 6880 8345; www.rosticceri.com; open daily; closed Sun pm) offers a delicious array of takeaway food. A separate vegetarian counter offers a wide range of dishes such as vegetable couscous and rice salad.
Casa Bleve (Via del Teatro Valle 48, 00186; 06 686 5970; closed Sun) is famous for its Sfizi di Bleve, a feast of innovative antipasti. Also savour their involtini (stuffed rolls), beef tartare and swordfish.
Blue Ice (Via dei Baullari 141, 00186; open daily) serves vividly coloured ice cream. Eat it in Piazza Navona.
Casa Coppelle (Piazza delle Coppelle 49, 00186; 06 6889 1707; open daily) is a Franco-Roman restaurant with a tempting range of dishes such as tarte tatin (upside-down tart) of caramelized artichokes and scallions, risotto with pear and gorgonzola and rack of lamb with vermouth and apple.
C.A.C.S Antica Norcineria (Via della Scrofa 100, 00186; 06 6880 1074; closed Sun) sells ham and salamis. Picnic on Piazza Navona.
La Campana (Vicolo della Campana 18, 00186; 06 687 5273; closed Mon) serves good pasta and fish.
Lo Zozzone (Via Teatro della Pace 32, 00186; 06 6880 8575; open daily) offers irresistible squares of crisp pizza bianca, filled with everything from ricotta and tuna, tomatoes and rocket to ricotta and cherry or chocolate.
The Chiostro Bramante Bistrot serves scrambled eggs and bacon; omelettes; pear, gorgonzola and walnut salad; artichoke pasta, and baguettes with goats’ cheese, honey and baby spinach. Choose whether to sit in the exquisite cloister or in the lounge, which has a window perfectly positioned for looking at the Sibyls.
Etabli (Vicolo delle Vacche 9/A, 00186; 06 9761 6694) is a trendy café that also serves salads and simple dishes.
Ristorante Il Fico (Via di Monte Giordano 49, 00186; 06 687 5568) has hearty meat and seafood dishes and a pleasant outdoor patio.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
L’Antica Salumeria (Piazza della Rotonda, 00186; 06 687 5989) offers bread and basic provisions. If Piazza della Rotonda is too crowded for a picnic, try the nearby Piazza della Minerva.
Il Panino Ingegnoso (Piazza di PIetra 35, 00186) is a sandwich bar that offers a wide range of delicious sandwiches, named after famous inventors.
Green T (Via Pie’ di Marmo 28, 00186; 06 679 8628; closed Sun) is Rome’s best Asian restaurant. Both food and decor are stylish, and the menu ranges from spring rolls and five-spiced duck to unusual regional Chinese dishes.
Sapore di Mare (Via Pie’ di Marmo 36, 00186; 06 678 0968; closed Mon lunch), with its stacks of polystyrene fish boxes and displays of fresh fish looks like a fishmonger, but it is one of Rome’s finest seafood restaurants.
Enoteca Spiriti (Via Sant’Eustachio 5, 00186; 06 6889 2199; closed Sun) is a great place for a light lunch of varied bruschetta, Parma ham and figs and smoked meats.
Da Armando al Pantheon (Salita de’Crescenzi 31, 00186; 06 6880 3034; closed Sat eve & Sun) serves delicious spaghetti cacio e pepe, alla carbonara and amatriciana as well as tagliolini with asparagus.
Carrefour Express (Via del Governo Vecchio 119, 00186; open daily) offers provisions for a picnic lunch that can be eaten at the Villa Aldobrandini.
The Caffé Doria inside Palazzo Doria Pamphilj (entrance from Via della Gatta; open daily) serves pastries, dishes for lunch and delicious nibbles.
Cambi (Via del Leoncino 30, 00186; 06 687 8081; closed Sun) has a deli counter, wine, fresh bread and pizza slices, all perfect for a picnic lunch that can be eaten in Piazza di Sant’Ignazio or Piazza della Minerva.
Matricianella (Via del Leone 3, 00186; 06 683 2100; closed Sun) is a trattoria offering a great meal of crisp mixed fried vegetables followed by a pasta dish. It is also well known for its lamb.
Gran Caffè la Caffettiera (Piazza di Pietra 65, 00186; 06 679 8147; closed Sun) serves coffee, milkshakes, sandwiches and pastries.
Osteria dell’Ingegno (Piazza di Pietra 45, 00186; 06 678 0662; closed Sun) has an unusual selection of lunch dishes such as potato soup or lasagne with broccoli and pecorino.
Vitti (Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina, 00186; 06 687 6304) is a great café that even serves breakfast with bacon and eggs.
Trattoria dal Cavalier Gino (Vicolo Rosini 4, 00186; 06 687 3434 closed Sun & Aug) offers dishes such as pasta alla carbonara and lamb and rabbit cacciatora casserole.
Gelateria della Palma (Via della Maddalena 20, 00186) offers great ice creams. Other popular gelaterie include Giolitti (Via Uffici del Vicario 40), Grom (Via della Maddalena 30) and San Crispino (Piazza della Maddalena 3). Eat it in Piazza della Rotonda.
Enoteca al Parlamento Achilli (Via dei Prefetti 15, 00186; 06 687 3446; open daily; www.enotecalparlamento.com) is a classy wine shop that has a Michelin-starred restaurant attached to it.
Gelateria Origini (Via del Gesù 73, 00186; 06 4547 3915; open daily) makes an amazing ice cream with ricotta, orange and jasmine flowers. Enjoy it in Piazza della Minerva.
Enoteca Corsi (Via del Gesù 88, 00186; 06 679 0821; closed Sun), is more of a trattoria than a wine bar, and serves spaghetti alla carbonara or a rustic soup; puddings are home-made.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Alimentari Ruggeri (Campo de’ Fiori 1, 00186; 06 6880 1091; open daily) is a great deli with a selection of cheese, salami and ham, plus Marmite and peanut butter for the homesick. Pick up a picnic lunch and head to Piazza Farnese.
Antico Forno Roscioli (Via dei Chiavari 34, 00186; 06 686 4045; closed Sun & Jul–Aug: Sat) gets crowded in the evenings when all kinds of bread, crisp pizza bianca and cakes leave the oven. There are hot takeaway dishes too.
Obicà (Campo de’ Fiori 26, 00186; 06 6880 2366; open daily) is a chic mozzarella bar that serves several gourmet varieties of mozzarella in a tantalizing range of sandwiches and salads.
Roscioli (Via de’ Giubbonari 21–22, 00186; 06 687 5287; closed Sun) uses top-quality ingredients to cook up what is said to be Rome’s best spaghetti carbonara, with organic eggs.
Antico Forno Roscioli offers a good range of breads and pizzas
L’Insalata Ricca (Via dei Chiavari 85–86, 00186; 06 6880 3656; open daily) serves 50 different kinds of salads as well as hamburgers with chips, pasta, crêpes and supplì.
Sto Bene Roma (Piazza Trinita dei Pellegrini 88, 00186; 06 6880 8653; 7am–8pm Mon–Sat) is good spot for sandwiches. Eat it on Piazza Farnese.
Trattoria da Sergio alle Grotte (Vicolo delle Grotte 27, 00186; 06 686 4293; closed Sun) serves all the usual Italian dishes, plus fish.
Bar Latteria (Via del Gallo 4–5, 00186; 06 686 5091) is famous for its hot chocolate and milky coffee. Have it on Piazza Farnese.
Zoc (Via delle Zoccolette 22, 00186; 06 6819 2515; open daily for dinner & Sun lunch) serves delicious pumpkin ravioli with melted butter and sage. Also try the soup of spelt, beans and cavolo nero.
Antico Bar Mariani (Via dei Pettinari 44, 00186) offers a selection of pastries and snacks.
Taverna Giulia (Vicolo dell’Oro 23, 00186; 06 686 9768; closed Sun) has Ligurian dishes such as trofie (pasta twists) with pesto and stockfish with potatoes and olives.
Coop (Corso Vittorio Emanuele 42, 00186; 06 6978 9102) stocks all the ingredients needed for a fun family picnic. Eat on the benches along Via del Portico d’Ottavia.
Bar del Cappuccino (Via Arenula 50, 00186; 06 6880 6042; closed Sun) offers the best cappuccinos in the city. Try the Caffè-Special, a kind of espresso-mocha. Also try the pizza bianca filled with pastrami.
Cremeria Romana Gelato Kosher (Via del Portico d’Ottavia 1B, 00186; closed Sat) sells excellent kosher ice creams and sorbets, made with natural ingredients.
Ba’Ghetto (Via del Portico d’Ottavia 57, 00186; 06 6889 2868; closed Fri dinner & Sat lunch) is a kosher restaurant that combines Roman Jewish cuisine with Middle Eastern specialities, mainly from Libya and Israel.
Kosher Bistrot (Via Santa Maria del Pianto 68/69, 00186; 06 686 4398; www.kosherbistrotcaffe.com) is perfect for a quick lunch of hamburgers, Jewish-style artichokes, sandwiches and some Middle Eastern dishes.
La Taverna degli Amici (Piazza Margana 36–7, 00187; 06 6992 0637; closed Sun pm & Mon) offers specialities such as zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta and osso buco (braised veal shanks) and tagliata.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Salumeria Focacci (Via della Croce 43, 00187; closed Sun) offers a selection of hams, salami, cheese, smoked salmon and other smoked fish, as well as a luscious selection of olives, sundried tomatoes, anchovies and other sott’olii (delicacies preserved in oil). Picnic at the Pincio Gardens.
Vuda Bar (Via della Vite 71–72, 00187; 06 679 2976; open daily; www.vudahotels.it), located on the ground floor of Hotel Homs, serves a decent selection of pastas and salads, risotto agli scampi (with prawns), good sandwiches and great coffee. The place is very popular with the locals working in the neighbourhood.
Il Margutta Vegetarian Food and Art (Via Margutta 118, 00187; 06 3265 0577; open daily) is a chic vegetarian restaurant full of vividly coloured furniture and vibrant paintings. The weekday buffet brunch in its more relaxed lounge-café area offers good value and the weekend brunch is accompanied by live music.
Edy (Vicolo del Babuino 4, 00187; 06 3600 1738; closed Sun) is a family-run restaurant untouched by time, fads and fashions, tucked into a quiet alley not far from Piazza di Spagna. The tagliatelle with artichokes and ricotta, and the home-made tiramisù served here are delicious.
Carrefour Express (Via Vittoria 32, 00187; closed Sun) is the ideal place to pick up picnic provisions. Eat on the Spanish Steps.
Da Giggi (Via Belsiana 94a, 00187; 06 679 1130; closed Tue; www.trattoriadagiggi.it) has been dishing out Roman specialties such as spaghetti alla carbonara, abbacchio (lamb) and maialino (suckling pig) since the 1960s.
Babington’s offers authentic English breakfast as well as scones and jam, sandwiches, cakes, salads, omelettes and kedgeree. For a splash out, try their sumptuous Champagne brunch. Ice creams, including Babington’s Earl Grey tea sorbet, are available too. The kids’ menu includes soft-boiled eggs and toast soldiers.
McDonald’s (Piazza di Spagna 46–7, 00187; 06 6992 3613; open daily) offers its usual fast food fare.
Hostaria al 31 (Via delle Carrozze 31, 00187; 06 678 6127; closed Sun; www.hostariaal31.com) serves slow food: artichoke risotto or lentil soup followed by roast suckling pig for lunch.
Fratelli Fabbi (Via della Croce 27, 00187; 06 679 0612; closed Sun) is the right place to shop for wine, ham and cheese. Enjoy a picnic lunch in the Pincio Gardens.
Ciampini al Café du Jardin (Piazza Trinità dei Monti 1, 00187; 06 678 5678; summer: daily; winter: Thu–Tue) serves delicious cornetti (croissants), cappuccino and other coffees, a variety of pasta dishes, grilled meat and ice creams.
ReCafé (Piazza Augusto Imperatore 36, 00186; 06 6813 4730; open daily; www.recafe.it) is a modern café and restaurant that serves Neapolitan pizza, pagnotelle (baked bread rolls with the filling inside), salads or a cake and coffee.
Buccone (Via di Ripetta 19, 00186; 06 361 2154) is an enoteca (wine shop/bar) that offers a selection of first and second courses at lunch and dinner.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Antica Osteria Brunetti (Via Angelo Brunetti 10, 00186; 06 6452 1062; closed Sun) is a great find for a cheap family lunch. It specializes in oven-baked pasta dishes and has a special lunch menu for €10.
Dal Pollarolo (Via di Ripetta 4–5, 00186; 06 361 0276; closed Thu & Aug) is inexpensive and serves pasta alla checca (elbow-shaped pasta with raw tomato, basil, capers, olives and fennel seeds) in summer and good, crisp pizza in the evenings.
Mare (Via di Ripetta 242, 00186; 06 8901 7481; open daily) serves fresh seafood raw in dishes such as a carpaccio of prawns, or a plate of oysters, scampi and prawns served with pink grape-fruit and coconut, or cooked, in dishes such as the delicious paccheri al sugo di scorfano (handmade pasta dressed with a sweet, sticky, intense sauce of scorpion fish).
Cose Fritte (Via di Ripetta 3, 00186; 06 321 9257; closed Sun) is the place for all things deep fried such as fish, potatoes, meatballs, zucchini flowers and pineapple.
La Penna d’Oca (Via della Penna 53, 00186; 06 320 2898; closed Tue & Jan) is a welcoming little restaurant that has a tempting menu ranging from stuffed zucchini flowers to spaghetti alle vongole (pasta with clams).
Café Rosati (Piazza del Popolo 4, 00187; 06 322 5859; open daily) is a good option for a fancy lunch of tagliolini with lobster or a gran fritto of seafood in a great locality. To save money, eat breakfast standing at the bar inside with those in the know.
Babette (Via Margutta 1d/3, 00187; 06 321 1559; closed Mon lunch) offers a great buffet at lunchtime and is a nice place for an afternoon tea or Sunday brunch.
Carrefour Express (Via della Vittoria 22/a, 00187; closed Sun) is the best place to shop for a picnic lunch, which you can eat at leisure in the lush gardens.
Casina dell’Orologio (Viale Bambini, 00187; 06 679 8515, open daily) is a kiosk café ideal for a panino or light lunch.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Fratelli Ciavatta (Via del Lavatore 31, 00187; 06 679 2935; closed Sat pm in summer) is a great place to pick up ingredients for a picnic on the piazza. A historic grocery and deli, it is well regarded for its cheeses, salamis and hams, which come from all over Italy.
La Prosciutteria (Via della Panetteria 34, 00187; 06 678 6990) sells gourmet Italian ingredients and specializes in cured meats. The quaint place also makes a variety of delicious sandwiches and serves fabulous cheese and meat platters.
Sora Lucia (Via della Panetteria 12, 00187; 06 679 4078; closed Mon) is a small, family-run trattoria that seems unaffected by the passage of time. Simple food such as pasta e fagioli (with beans), spaghetti alla carbonara (with bacon and egg), lasagne or veal escalope should please most kids. The tiramisù is also delicious.
Le Tamerici (Vicolo Scavolino 79, 00187; 06 6920 0700; www.letamerici.com; closed Sun), with its tasteful interior and excellent seafood, seems very far away from the chaos around the fountain. Try the fresh pasta with prawns, zucchini and pistachios, or tuna with olives, capers and sundried tomatoes. Do not miss their pistachio ice cream.
Il Bibo (Piazza SS Apostoli 58, 00187; 06 678 2419; open daily) is a nice place for a snack or sandwich.
Bistrot Quirino (Via delle Vergini 7, 00187; 06 9887 8090; open from 8am till last theatre show), inside the Teatro Quirino, is great for breakfast, brunch and dinner.
Sandwicheria al Nazareno (Largo del Nazareno, 00187; 06 6979 7805; www.lasandwicheria.it) is a friendly sandwich joint. Guests can choose their favourite fillings and sauces.
Vineria Il Chianti (Via del Lavatore 81–82A, 00187; 06 678 7550; www.vineriailchianti.com) is a traditional trattoria serving hearty Tuscan dishes, accompanied by good wine.
Fratelli Ciavatta stocks all the ingredients for a nice picnic lunch which can be enjoyed on the piazza, or in the gardens next to Sant’Andrea on Via del Quirinale.
Hostaria Piccolo Arancio (Vicolo Scanderbeg 112, 00187; 06 678 6139; closed Mon) is a simple, cosy place for lunch, on the hill leading up to Piazza del Quirinale from the Trevi Fountain. Try the pumpkin ravioli.
Terrazza Barberini (Via Barberini 16a, 00187; 06 4201 4596; www.terrazzabarberini.it; open daily) is nice for a quick sandwich or pastry before or after visiting the palazzo.
Mr Chow (Via Genova 29a, 00184; 06 488 4412; open daily) offers great Chinese food. Try the pork with soybeans and peppers.
Coop (Via in Arcione 70, 00184; open 8am–9pm Mon–Sat, 9am–9pm Sun) is the handiest supermarket for buying picnic supplies. Eat in the garden next to Sant’Andrea.
Gelateria Verde Pistacchio (Via Nazionale 239, 00184; open daily) serves good, home-made ice cream, crêpes, smoothies, ice cream frappé and hot chocolate from behind a counter made out of an old VW van.
Fratelli Ghezzi (Via Goito 32, 00185; 06 494 1215; closed Sat pm & Sun) sources its own hams, salamis and cheeses. It has a selection of hot dishes such as lasagne and pasta al forno (oven baked) to take away.
Trimani (Via Cernaia 37/B, 00185; 06 446 9630; closed Sun) serves fabulous quiche with escarole. The wines are exceptional.
Forno Cerulli (Via di San Nicola da Tolentino 15, 00187) is a little bakery that has been cheering Romans up with its pizza al taglio (rectangular slices of pizza to takeaway) for over 80 years.
Colline Emiliane (Via degli Avignonesi 22, 00187; 06 481 7538; closed Sun dinner & Mon) is perfect for a hearty meal, serving dishes from the Emilia-Romagna region, whose capital is Bologna. It is, therefore, the perfect place to try an authentic tagliatelle bolognese.
Palombi (Via Vittorio Veneto 114, 00187; closed Sun) is a classic from the days of La Dolce Vita, serving tea, coffee, cakes, muffins and savouries.
Hamasei (Via della Mercede 35/36, 00187; 06 679 2134; closed Mon) is one of the best Japanese restaurants in Rome. Eat sushi at the bar, or sit down for more substantial fare such as tempura or teppanyaki.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Salumeria Focacci (Via della Croce 43, 00187; closed Sun) sells salami, ham, cheese, smoked salmon and other smoked fish. Eat in the park.
Vyta Santa Margherita (Casa del Cinema, Largo Marcello Mastroianni 1, 00187; 06 4201 6224) has tables under a portico and a lawn in front, which means kids can play while adults linger over lunch. It serves a delicious brunch on Saturdays and Sundays.
Zero100 (Via Flaminia 82, 00187; 366 615 9380; closed Mon, Sun pm) in Explora is by far the best place in the area for a decently priced lunch.
Caffè delle Arti (Via Gramsci 73; 06 3265 1236) in the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna is perfect for a brunch of antipasto misto, salad and sea bass fillet with capers and lemon.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Carrefour Express (Via Flaminia 78, 00197; closed Sun) pro-vides all the ingredients for a great picnic lunch. Picnic in the gardens or wander into the Borghese park.
Villa Giulia Café offers tables on a terrace shaded by orange trees or in a greenhouse, which make a lovely setting for a coffee and pastry or cold drinks and delicious sandwiches.
Caffè delle Arti in the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna serves a fixed-price lunch menu of one primo (usually a pasta dish), a mini-dessert, a glass of wine or soft drink and water.
Caffè delle Arti (Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Moderna) is a fine choice for a proper treat too. Sit on its beautiful travertine terrace and choose from dishes such as home-made ravioli, spinach, bacon and crouton salad, or veal with orange and rosemary.
Caffè delle Arti is GNAM’s café-restaurant – perfect for a snack, lunch, or full meal. Enjoy an energy drink or indulge in an antipasto misto of fried prawns, supplì, broccoli croquettes, spinach and chicory, followed by a radicchio, goats’ cheese and pear salad and sea bass fillet with capers and lemon.
Casina del Lago (Villa Borghese; 06 8535 2623; summer: open daily; winter: Tue–Sun; 10 per cent discount with museum ticket) is a charming little park café with a great outdoor seating arrangement. Their terrace can be used all year as it is heated. Pastries, sandwiches and simple pasta and rice dishes are available.
Explora’s café-restaurant-pizzeria is perfect for a quick snack after or before activities.
Caffè dei Pittori (Via Flaminia 57–59, 00196; 06 320 0803; closed Sun), a lively, canteen-like café, serves pastries and sandwiches throughout the day.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Carrefour Express (Via Vittoria, 00197; closed Sun), sells ingredients for sandwiches. Enjoy a picnic lunch in the Villa Borghese grounds.
Picnic (Piazzale delle Canestre, 00197; 366 446 9901; open daily) provides gourmet picnics including hampers and blankets. For those who prefer to eat in, choices range from English breakfasts, salads and sandwiches, to more substantial dishes such as pizzas or steaks.
Vyta Santa Margherita offers a good buffet lunch.
Caffè delle Arti serves a superb radicchio, goats’ cheese and pear salad, and sea bass with capers and lemon.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Carrefour Express, stocks everything for a picnic. There is a picnic area right by the lake – great for flamingo-watching.
Caffè del Ninfeo (06 321 1388; open daily for lunch) looks over the lemur enclosure. Watch the playful creatures while eating hamburgers, sausages or toasted ham and cheese sandwiches, followed by ice cream.
Bioparco Cafeteria (06 321 1388; open daily for lunch), near the entrance, has simple, reasonably priced meals – pasta al pomodoro, chicken escalopes and ice creams for dessert.
Ristorante Mascagni (06 321 1388; open daily for lunch), founded in 1926, is the smartest of the zoo’s eating places. Children may like the simple dishes such as pasta al pomodoro and lasagne, while parents will enjoy typical Roman dishes.
TUODI (Via Zara 24, 00198; closed Sun), a supermarket, offers a variety of food items suitable for a picnic. Eat at the park.
Limonaia (Via Spallanzani 1/A, 00161; 06 440 4021; open daily) is a café and restaurant housed in the orangery adjoinging Technotown. Visit for a sandwich, pizza, or crunchy crostini topped with melted taleggio cheese and speck, and a slice of delicious cake. Try child-friendly daily specials such as sausage and potatoes or hamburger and chips.
MACRO’s café offers coffee, sandwiches and pastries.
MACRO138, on a dramatic terrace, serves a stylish blend of traditional and creative cuisine and makes its own bread, cakes and ice cream.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Forno La Renella (Via del Moro 15–16, 00153; 06 581 7265; open daily) is the place where Romans from all over the city come to seek out pizza, focaccia and bread. Picnic in the Botanical Gardens or take a bus (44 or 75) up to Villa Sciarra.
La Boccaccia (Via di Santa Dorotea 2, 00153; open daily) offers great pizza by the slice.
Augusto (Piazza de Renzi, 15, 00153; 06 580 3798; open daily) is a typical trattoria serving traditional dishes such as pasta cacio e pepe, sausages and lamb at very reasonable prices.
Glass Hostaria (Vicolo del Cinque 58, 00153; 06 5833 5903; www.glass-restaurant.it; closed Mon) has minimalist decor, good service and exquisite inventive modern international food. Try the sumac-crusted lamb, or grilled calamari with bok choy and kombu.
Da Lucia (Vicolo del Mattonato 2, 00153; 06 580 3601; closed Mon) is a lovely old trattoria with outdoor seating. The speciality is spaghetti cacio e pepe.
Ditta Trinchetti (Via della Lungaretta 76, 00153; 06 5833 1189; open daily) is a fabulous tavola calda and deli serving Puglian burrata (mozzarella marinated in cream), sandwiches, salads and hot bean soup.
Convivium (Via Cardinale Marmaggi 12; 06 8660 5560; closed Mon) sells pizza by the slice, supplí, and other traditional fried specialties for a quick snack.
Panetteria Romana e Spaccio di Paste (Via della Lungaretta 31, 00153; 06 5831 0598; open daily) is a great place for a hot lunch where one can choose dishes from the fabulous tavola calda.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
There are no handy shops on the Janiculum. However, if coming from the Vatican, pick up made-to-order sandwiches from Alimentari (Borgo Pio 27, 00193; closed Sun) and if coming from Trastevere, pick up a picnic lunch at the market in Piazza San Cosimato. Eat in the picnic area on Belvedere Salviati.
Mobile vans (Piazzale Giuseppe Garibaldi, 00153) sell sandwiches, drinks and ice creams.
Carpe Diem al Gianicolo (Via di San Pancrazio 3, 00152; 06 580 0896; closed Tue) serves pizzas and pasta, and is one of very few places to eat at the top of the hill.
Antico Arco (Piazzale Aurelio 7, 00152; 06 581 5274; open daily for lunch & dinner) is one of the best and most consistent of Rome’s restaurants. Try the onion flan with aged parmesan fondue, home-made ravioli with sea bass, squid, broccoli and leeks, ricciola (amberjack) tartare with ginger and lime, or crème caramel with lemongrass served with a warm banana crumble.
Luna e L’Altra (Via San Francesco di Sales 1, 00165; 06 6889 2465; www.casainternazionaledelledonne.org; closed Sun) has a café that serves ethnic and organic food and has plenty of space for kids to run around.
Zi’Mberto (Piazza della Malva 11, 00153; 06 581 6643; closed Mon) offers spaghetti alla carbonara and steak – try the tagliata with mushrooms.
Da Giovanni (Via della Lungara 41A, 00165; 06 686 1514; closed Sun), a trattoria, offers dishes such as chickpea soup, pasta and wine – for the price of a snack.
La Scala in Trastevere (Piazza della Scala 58, 00153; 06 580 3763; open daily) is a friendly place offering excellent Mediterranean cuisine with a focus on fish and some meaty creations. For something truly special, try one of their truffle recipes.
Forno La Renella offers excellent bread and pizza – try the latter with just salt and oil, or with sausage and potato. Eat at the top of the steps leading down to San Pietro in Montorio.
Terrazza San Pancrazio (Via di Porta San Pancrazio 32, 00153; 345 403 5679) serves delicious aperitivo buffets and light dinner options, including sushi.
Il Baretto (Via Garibaldi 27G, 00153; 06 589 6055; open daily) is a trendy bar that also serves warm dishes for lunch and aperitivos for dinner.
Antica Pesa (Via Giuseppe Garibaldi 18, 00153; 06 580 9236; www.anticapesa.it; closed Sun) creates traditional Roman food with a sophisticated twist, along with inventive dishes such as the lightly smoked prosciutto crudo (cured ham) served with a crunchy puff-pastry parcel filled with melting buffalo mozzarella. Desserts include chestnut millefeuille and tiramisu.
DOC (Via Fonteiana 28 A, 00152; closed Sun) is the closest supermarket. Put together a picnic meal and eat it at the park.
Vivi Bistrot (Via Vitellia 102, 00165; www.vivibistrot.com; open daily) is a Provencal-style café-restaurant complete with a lavender garden. It is worth a visit for breakfast, brunch, lunch, tea, apéritifs or dinner. There are also kids’ menus.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Alimentari (Borgo Pio 27, 00193; open 9am–2pm & 5–7:30pm, Mon–Sat) sells bread and deli items and will make sandwiches. Eat in Parco Adriano.
Fa-bìo (Via Germanico 43, 00193; 06 6452 5810; closed Sun) is a great sandwich bar with a large selection of sandwiches, wraps and salads, as well as smoothies and juices, all prepared with fresh, organic ingredients.
Er Sor Guido (Borgo Pio 13, 00193; 06 687 5491; closed Sun), a tiny eatery with indoor and outdoor seating, offers made-to-order sandwiches as well as pasta dishes and main courses.
Hostaria da Cesare (Via Crescenzio 13, 00193; 06 686 1227; open daily) is a lovely old-fashioned restaurant that serves Tuscan specialties such as ribollita (bean and cabbage soup with bread) and Chianina steak.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Franchi Gastronomia (Via Cola di Rienzo 200, 00193; www.franchi.it) has a great deli counter and hot takeaway dishes. Eat at Parco Adriano.
Pizza Rosticceria Vecchio Borgo (Borgo Angelico 9–13, 00193; closed Sun pm) offers pizza al taglio and oven-baked pasta dishes.
De’ Penitenzieri (Via dei Penitenzieri 16, 00193; 06 687 5350; closed Sun) is ideal for lunch or an early dinner. Try the pasta alla carbonara, sausages or a frittata.
Borgo Antico (Borgo Pio 21, 00193; 06 686 5967; closed Sun) serves Papalina (potatoes baked with mushrooms, truffles and cheese), a favourite with Pope Benedict XVI who used to eat here when he was a cardinal.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Caffetteria Sistina (Viale Vaticano, 00120; same opening hours as museums), near the Sistine Chapel, serves pastries, sandwiches, soft drinks and coffee – perfect for a quick bite.
The Pizzeria in the museum complex opens into the garden near the Pavilion of Carriages, and makes a good choice for an easy lunch of pizza or salad.
The Caffetteria, with its terrace laid out in the Cortile della Pigna, is a lovely place for a leisurely lunch, afternoon tea or apéritif and has space in the courtyard for children to play while adults relax.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Coop Tirreno (Via Alberico II 3, 00186; closed Sun) offers pizza bianca, cornetti, different types of cheese and prosciutto. Put together a picnic lunch and eat it in Parco Adriano.
The Castel Sant’Angelo bar (open during museum hours), with tables on the terrace, serves sandwiches and flavoured hot chocolate – try the delicious white hot chocolate, caramel hot chocolate and hazelnut hot chocolate.
Antico Caffè di Marte (Via del Banco di Santo Spirito 7, 00186; 06 6813 6546; open daily) is a friendly bar, restaurant and pizzeria great for breakfast, or a hearty lunch of soup, pasta and beans followed by roast chicken and potatoes.
Simposio (Piazza Cavour 16, 00184; 06 3211 1131; closed Sun www.pierocostantini.it), one of the finest places to eat in the city, boasts a very refined restaurant and a more relaxed wine bar. Gorge on the cheese, meat and sandwiches here.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Mercato Rionale Flaminio II (Via Guido Reni, 00196; open daily) is a lovely neighbourhood market. Buy fruit, vegetables, fresh bread, ham, salami and cheeses and eat on the benches on Piazza Gentile da Fabriano. Finish with a delicious ice cream from Neve di Latte (Via Poletti 6, 00196; closed Tue).
Pizzeria Salernitana (Piazza Grecia 3, 00196; 06 9970 9040; closed Sun) is an excellent pizzeria that sells pizza by the slice, fried snacks such as supplì and zucchini flowers, as well as desserts.
MAXXI21 (inside MAXXI grounds) offers seating indoors and outdoor. The best-value meal here is the buffet lunch with a wide selection of starters, firsts and seconds laid out for diners to help themselves.
Ristorante Pizzeria Popolo Caffé (Via Flaminia 9/11, 00198; 06 321 2573) serves Roman classic and thin-crusted pizza and delicious spaghetti alla carbonara. It also has a good-value-for-money tourist menu.
ReD Restaurant & Design (Viale Pietro Coubertin 12–16, 00196; 06 8069 1630; open daily) inside the auditorium offers a children’s menu on Saturdays and Sundays. On weekdays choose between small portions on plates priced as per their colour.
Bar Due Fontane (Piazza Perin del Vaga 13, 00196; closed Sun) is a café serving delicious light lunches, including many vegan options. Try one of their fresh fruit juices, soups and falafel sandwiches.
Ada Lo Scoiattolo (Via Salaria 273, 00199; 7:30am onwards daily) in Villa Ada offers sandwiches, salads, ice creams and simple pasta dishes.
Locanda Filomarino (Via di Filomarino 7, 00199; 06 8621 1815; closed Mon) serves spaghetti with prawns and zucchini, risotto with zucchini flowers, saffron and prawns, or tagliatelle with octopus, wild chicory and pecorino.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Alimentari (Via Appia Antica 210, 00178; closed Sun), not far beyond the Tomb of Cecilia Metella, near the bus 660 stop, is the only shop selling provisions along the road. Picnic in the open spaces of Parco della Caffarella.
Il Giardino di Giulia e Fratelli (Via Appia Antica 176, 00179; 347 509 2772; closed Mon) is a grassy playground with a café. There is usually a hot dish of the day, such as lasagne, as well as toasted sandwiches, pastries and ice creams.
Qui Nun Se More Mai (Via Appia Antica 198, 00178; 06 780 3922; closed Sun pm & Mon)) is a great family-run trattoria, known for its wood-fire grilled steaks, baked potatoes and four cheese pasta.
L’Archeologia (Via Appia Antica 139, 00178; 06 788 0494; open daily) is an elegant choice for delicious, refreshingly original dishes such as fettuccine with wild fennel and fillet of grouper fish, or spaghetti with zucchini, prawns, fresh tomato and basil.
There are no food shops or cafés nearby. If coming from the Circo Massimo metro station, shop first at the excellent Alimentari Giacomini or if coming from the Colosseum pick up a picnic lunch from Panificio Disa.
Da Priscilla (Via Appia Antica 68, 00147; 06 513 6379; closed Sun pm), a short bus ride away (bus 118), serves hearty dishes such as pappardelle with wild boar ragù or pasta with broccoli and sausages.
Simply Market SMA (Viale Beethoven 48, 00144; closed Sun) has all the ingredients for a picnic on the shores of EUR’s lake.
Caffé Palombini (Piazzale Konrad Adenauer 12, 00144; 06 591 1700; www.palombini.com; closed Sun) offers crisp sugared pastries, fresh sandwiches and, at lunchtime, simple pasta dishes. In the evening, it is a popular aperitivo place.
Cinecittà Café offers seats on a terrace and serves coffees, soft drinks, sandwiches and pastries.
Illy Caffè (third floor, Cinecittà Due) serves pizza, pasta, simple main dishes, cakes, biscuits and coffee on a huge outdoor terrace.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
Volpetti (Via Marmorata 47A, 00153; 06 574 2352; closed Sun) located close to the Stazione di Porta San Paolo in Rome, stocks picnic supplies. Eat on the train or amidst the ruins.
The Station Bar (At the train station, Stazione Ostia Antica), is a conveniently located snack joint that serves sandwiches, soft drinks, coffees and pastries.
Lo Sbarco di Enea (Via dei Romagnoli 675, 00121; 06 565 0034; closed Mon lunch) is a convenient place for lunch, with a set menu and plenty of simple dishes that appeal to children, along with pizza and char-grilled meat.
La Vecchia Pineta (Piazza dell’Aquilone 4, 00122 Lido di Ostia; 06 5647 0255; closed Sun eve in winter) offers delicious antipasti of mixed raw fish, spaghetti alle vongole and prawn tempura. The fish of the day can be cooked according to individual taste.
Picnic: under €25; Snacks: €25–40; Real meal: €40–80; Family treat: over €80 (based on a family of four)
PAM (Via Lago di Lesi 00019; 0774 380 615; closed Sun) is the ideal place to pick up provisions for a family picnic, since no refreshments are available on site.
Caffè Morelli (Via Casal Bellini 14, 00019; 07 7438 2124; open daily) is a simple neighbourhood bar serving pastries, coffee and soft drinks.
La Tenuta di Rocca Bruna (Strada Roccabruna 30, 00019; 07 7453 5985; closed Mon) is set in gardens, and serves a variety of pastas and excellent meat dishes.
Ristorante Sibilla (Via della Sibilla 42, 00010; 07 7433 5281; open summer: daily; winter: Tue–Sun) is one of Tivoli’s best restaurants. Try the ricotta in crisp kaitafi (shredded filo dough and syrup) pastry, or the maccheroncini alla carbonara spiked with truffle, and the home-made desserts.
The park’s picnic area has barbecues, and a self-service restaurant.
Al Vecchio Orologio (Via Orologio Vecchio 25, 01100; Viterbo; 335 337 754; open summer: Mon–Sat; winter: Tue–Sun) serves pizzas.
Bar delle Fragole (Corso Vittorio Emanuele 7, 00040 Nemi; 06 936 8102; summer: daily; winter: closed Tue) serves excellent treats including strawberry cakes, strawberries with yogurt and strawberry crêpes, in summer.
Sirena del Lago (Via del Plebiscito 26, 00040 Nemi; 06 936 8020; open daily) is a good place to lunch on local hams and salamis followed by pasta, roast quail, grilled trout or roast chicken.
L’Isola dei Formaggi (Via Settevene Palo 39, 00069; 06 998 7072; closed Thu & Sun pm; www.formaggiroma.it) offers great artisan cheeses. Take a picnic to the beach at Lungolago Argenti.
L’Orso Goloso (Viale Garibaldi 99, 00069 Trevignano Romano; 327 884 5841; closed Mon & Tue lunch) serves creative dishes made with local ingredients, including fresh fish from the lake. The friendly service makes for a pleasant experience.