MEXICAN RICE PUDDING with CAJETA (ARROZ CON LECHE)

SERVES 4 TO 6

This is a very rich and Mexican creamy rice pudding with just a hint of cinnamon. What makes it sing of Mexico is the cajeta drizzle, which, by the way, is also terrific on ice cream. If you love all things “dulce de leche,” you will love this cajeta, a classic Mexican milk candy.

1 cinnamon stick

1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds scraped

4 cups water

2 cups long-grain rice

2 cups heavy cream

One 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk

½ cup golden raisins (optional)

Cajeta (recipe follows)

Combine the cinnamon stick and the vanilla pod and seeds with the water in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil, then, stirring constantly, add the rice. Lower the heat and simmer for about 30 minutes, or until the water has been absorbed.

Add the cream, one cup at a time, stirring constantly, and continue to cook until all of the cream has been absorbed.

Stir in the sweetened condensed milk and cook, stirring, for about 10 minutes, or until the mixture is quite thick. Remove the vanilla pod and discard.

Remove from the heat and stir in the raisins, if using. Pour the pudding into a shallow dish and set aside to cool.

When ready to serve, spoon equal amounts of the rice pudding into each dessert bowl and generously drizzle the cajeta over the top. Serve immediately.

CAJETA

MAKES 2 QUARTS

2 quarts goat’s milk (cow’s milk may be substituted)

2 cups sugar

1 vanilla bean, split in half lengthwise

½ teaspoon baking soda dissolved in 1 tablespoon water

Combine the milk and sugar in a medium saucepan. Add the vanilla bean and place over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, for about 7 minutes, or until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture begins to simmer.

Remove from the heat and stir in the dissolved baking soda; be careful, as the sauce will bubble up. This will happen more rapidly when goat’s milk is used.

Return the pan to medium heat and bring to a brisk simmer; do not boil. Simmer, stirring frequently, for about 1 hour, or until golden brown. Continue to cook for a few minutes until the mixture begins to thicken and turn a deeper brown.

Immediately remove from the heat and set aside to cool. When cool, the mixture should have a thick sauce-like consistency. If too thick, add water, a teaspoonful at a time, to thin. Remove and reserve the vanilla bean. Pour the cajeta through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl. Using a small, sharp knife, scrape the seeds from the vanilla pod into the cajeta and stir to blend throughly. Discard the pod.

Use the cajeta immediately, or store, tightly covered and refrigerated, for up to 2 weeks. Warm before using.

 

BROWN SUGAR PEACHES with PISTACHIO ICE CREAM

SERVES 6

This is a great Texas summertime dessert when the peaches are perfectly ripe. The grill gives an interesting taste to the dish and caramelizes the sugar. Of course, you can use the peaches on almost any commercial ice cream, and without all of the extras, but it sure wouldn’t be a Texas dessert.

6 tablespoons Sugar in the Raw

6 peaches, peeled, pitted, and cut in half lengthwise

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter

image cup plus 1 tablespoon packed light brown sugar

1 cup heavy cream, sweetened and whipped

Pistachio Ice Cream (recipe follows) or fine-quality, store-bought pistachio ice cream

Pistachio Granola (recipe follows)

Preheat and oil the grill.

Pour the Sugar in the Raw into a large shallow bowl. Dip the peaches, cut side down, into the sugar. Turn and coat the remaining sides in the sugar. Place the peaches on the hot grill, cut side down, and grill for 1 minute.

Remove the peaches from the grill and cut into medium dice.

Put the butter and light brown sugar in a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the diced peaches and cook, gently stirring occasionally, for about 3 minutes, or until very tender.

Using half of the peaches, spoon an equal portion into each of four ramekins or sundae glasses. Follow with an equal portion of the whipped cream, then the ice cream, and finally the granola. Repeat the layering. Serve immediately.

PISTACHIO ICE CREAM

MAKES 2 QUARTS

4 cups heavy cream

4 cups whole milk

3 cups toasted pistachios

10 large egg yolks, at room temperature

1 cup sugar

Combine the cream and milk in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the pistachios and cook for about 8 minutes, or just until bubbles begin to form around the edges of the pan.

Remove from the heat and set aside for 1 to 2 hours to allow the pistachios to deeply flavor the liquid.

Return the pistachio mixture to medium-high heat and bring to a boil.

Combine the egg yolks and sugar in a medium bowl and whisk to blend well. Immediately, slowly pour about 1 cup of the hot liquid into the egg yolk–sugar mixture, stirring vigorously to temper.

Whisking constantly, pour the tempered egg mixture into the hot liquid in the saucepan. Cook, whisking constantly, for about 5 minutes, or until it begins to thicken.

Remove from the heat and strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean container. Cover and refrigerate for about 2 hours, or until well chilled. Discard the solids.

When well chilled, transfer to an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer’s directions.

image

 

CARAMELIZED APPLE BUCKLE

SERVES 4

I grew up eating buckles and cobblers and all kinds of cake-based fruit desserts, and I never exactly knew one from the other—they were all good in my book. However, traditionally a buckle is made with a bottom cake layer, a middle layer of fruit, and a topping of sweetened crumbs. But it can also be made with the fruit mixed into the cake and then topped with crumbs. This version does a little of both.

Rather than the usual topping of vanilla ice cream or whipped cream, I like to serve this with slightly sweetened crème fraîche. (Just whip a little brown sugar into a cup of crème fraîche.)

2 tablespoons melted unsalted butter

½ cup packed light brown sugar

2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, cored, and cut crosswise into thick slices

Pinch ground cinnamon

1 cup granulated sugar

¾ cup almond paste

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

½ cup vegetable shortening

3 large eggs, at room temperature

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Pinch salt

1 cup bread flour

Crunch Topping (recipe follows)

Pour the melted butter into a medium sauté pan over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and cook, stirring, for a couple of minutes, or until bubbling. Add the apples and cook, stirring occasionally, for about 10 minutes, or until the apples are tender and nicely caramelized. Stir in the cinnamon, remove from the heat, and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Generously butter the interior of four 6- to 8-ounce ramekins and set aside.

Combine the granulated sugar and almond paste in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Beat on low for 3 minutes, or until smooth.

Add the room-temperature butter and shortening, increase the speed to medium, and beat for about 5 minutes, or until light and fluffy.

With the mixer still running on medium speed, add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the vanilla and salt and continue to beat to blend.

Decrease the speed to low and slowly add the flour, beating until completely incorporated.

Using about half of the batter, spoon an equal portion into the bottom of each buttered ramekin. Then spoon an equal portion of the apples over the batter. Spoon the remaining cake batter over the apples, distributing it equally among the ramekins, and top with an equal portion of the Crunch Topping.

Transfer to the preheated oven and bake for about 25 minutes, or until cooked through and golden brown.

Remove from the oven and serve warm with ice cream, whipped cream, or my preference, sweetened crème fraîche.

CRUNCH TOPPING

MAKES 1½ CUPS

½ cup all-purpose flour

image cup quick-cooking oatmeal

image cup packed light brown sugar

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons (½ stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

Combine the flour, oatmeal, sugar, cinnamon, and salt in a bowl and stir to blend well.

Using your fingertips, work the butter into the dry ingredients to make a crumbly mix.

Use as directed.

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PEACH COBBLER

MAKES ONE 9-INCH SQUARE COBBLER

It’s said that in June you can find the best and biggest peaches in Texas in Parker County, and, when you find them, nothing could be better than making this cobbler. It is summertime in a dish. You can also make this cobbler with other stone fruits or berries.

8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into small cubes, plus more for buttering the dish

3 cups sliced peeled peaches

1image cups sugar

1 teaspoon peeled and minced fresh ginger

3 cups plus 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1image cups buttermilk

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Generously butter a 9-inch square baking dish. Set aside. Line a cookie sheet with parchment paper or a nonstick silicone baking mat. Set aside.

Combine the peaches with image cup of the sugar and the ginger in a medium saucepan. Add 1 tablespoon of the flour and place over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil, stirring frequently. Immediately remove from the heat and spoon into the prepared baking dish. Set aside.

Combine the remaining 3 cups flour and 1 cup sugar with the baking powder, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process to blend.

Add the butter and process, using quick on-and-off turns, until it resembles coarse meal. Add the buttermilk and process just until a sticky dough forms.

Lightly flour a clean, flat work surface. Scrape the dough onto the floured surface and dust the top of the dough completely.

Using a rolling pin, roll the dough to a thickness of ¼ inch. Using a small biscuit cutter, cut the dough into circles or any other shape you desire. Transfer the cutout dough to the prepared cookie sheet.

Place in the preheated oven and bake for about 7 minutes, or until the dough is partially cooked and beginning to color. Do not turn the oven off.

Remove from the oven and place the dough on top of the peaches.

Place in the preheated oven and bake for about 15 minutes, or until the fruit is bubbling and the pastry is golden brown and cooked through. Serve hot or warm.