Index

The page numbers in this index refer to the printed version of the book. Each link will take you to the beginning of the corresponding print page. You may need to scroll forward from that location to find the corresponding reference on your e-reader.

Page numbers in italics refer to illustrations.

A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

A

  • Abenaki, 141

  • Acheson, Dean, 167

  • Adams, Abigail, xxi

    • cooks of, 24, 26

    • entertaining and, 23–24, 27, 28–29

    • finances of, 23, 24, 26

    • health of, 25, 27

    • letters between John and, 25, 26

  • Adams, Charles, 29

  • Adams, John, 22, 23–29

    • background of, 23

    • cooks of, 24, 26

    • entertaining and, 27, 28–29, 123, 369

    • finances of, 23, 24, 26, 38

    • foods enjoyed by, 141

    • Hamilton and, 27

    • Jefferson and, 27, 29

    • letters between Abigail and, 25, 26

    • as minister to the U.K. and the Netherlands, 40

    • reaction to successor, 349

    • vegetable garden of, 325

    • vice presidency of, 23

  • Adams, John Quincy, 325, 349

  • Adams, Sherman, 183

  • Adenauer, Konrad, 210

  • Afghanistan

    • Churchill and, 157–58

    • Soviet invasion of, 250

  • Agnew, Spiro, 231, 232, 235

  • Agricultural Trade Development and Assistance Act, 180

  • Agriculture Department, 263, 318–19, 327, 352–53

  • Akihito, 290, 291

  • Alabama, 69

  • Alaska, 110

  • alcoholism, 87, 88

  • Aldrich, Nelson, Jr., 191

  • Alfred A. Knopf, 197

  • Ali, Muhammad, 247

  • Allen, Elisha Hunt, 91

  • Allen, Ida, 146

  • Allen, James (Skip), 361

  • Allgor, Catherine, 8, 55–56

  • Allman, Ann, 257, 258

  • Alsop, Joseph, 193

  • Ambrose, Stephen, 184

  • American Cookery (Simmons), 14

  • American Council on Science and Health, 327

  • American Cuisine (Freedman), 280

  • American cuisine, evolution of, 280–81

  • American diet in early nineteenth century, 33–34

  • American Family Survey, 370

  • American Frugal Housewife, The (Child), 14

  • American Medical Association, 88

  • American Museum of Natural History, 105

  • American Relief Administration (ARA), 134

  • American Revolution, xiv, xvi, 4–8, 9

  • American Table blog, 384

  • “American Tragedy, An” (Simon), 280

  • Anderson, Karl, 136

  • Andrés, José, 14, 355

  • Andrews, Henry, 64

  • Angelou, Maya, 292

  • anorexia, 259, 266

  • Anthony, Carl Sferrazza, 294

  • Anthony, Carmelo, 324

  • Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown, 330

  • Antietam, Battle of, 61

  • Antiquities Act, 110

  • Appomattox, Battle of, 80, 88

  • ARA (American Relief Administration), 134

  • arms race, 179

  • Army Corps of Engineers, 105

  • Arthur, Chester A., 106

  • Arthur, Prince, 86

  • Art of Cookery, The (Glasse), 14

  • Associated Press, 104

  • Atlantic, The, 337, 369

  • Atlantic Charter, 153

  • atomic bombs, 161, 163, 166

  • Atoms for Peace, 179

  • Auchincloss, Hugh D., 192

  • Aurangzeb, Begum Nasim Akhtar, 201

B

  • Babcock, Orville, 83, 94

  • Bacon, Edmund, 32, 34

  • Balanchine, George, 204

  • Baldrige, Letitia, 189, 194, 199, 200, 201, 202, 254

  • Baldwin, James, 203

  • Balzer, G. A., 62

  • barbecue diplomacy, phrase of, 212

  • Barber, Dan, 322, 329, 341

  • Barlow, Joel, 10

  • Barr, Bill, 339

  • Barthe, Louis, 386

  • Bartlett, Charles, 192, 205

  • Bartlett, Martha, 192

  • Batali, Mario, 281

  • Bayless, Rick, 316, 324, 329

  • Baylor, Don, 299

  • Beane, Billy, 299

  • Beard, James, 14, 280, 389

  • Beardsley, Mimi, 205

  • Beaverbrook, Lord, 155

  • Beck, Simone “Simca,” 197

  • Beef Trust, 327

  • Begin, Aliza, 245

  • Begin, Menachem, 244–46, 247, 248–49, 362

  • Belafonte, Harry, 193, 292

  • Belgium, 124, 126

  • Bellow, Saul, 204

  • Bench, Johnny, 299

  • Bender, Heinz, xxvi

  • Bennett, Tony, xxv

  • Bentley, Amy, 338

  • Bergeron, “Trader” Victor, 231–32

  • Berkley, David, 259

  • Berle, Milton, 193

  • Berlin Airlift, 166

  • Berlin Wall, 193, 211, 267

  • Berman, Lea, 307, 308, 310, 346–47, 356, 365

  • Berman, Wayne, 308

  • Bernard, Jeremy, 346, 356

  • Bernstein, Felicia, 190

  • Bernstein, Leonard, 188, 189, 190, 191, 192

  • Berra, Yogi, 299

  • Bertholle, Louisette, 197

  • Beyoncé, 328

  • Biden, Ashley, 351

  • Biden, Beau, 351

  • Biden, Hunter, 351, 364

  • Biden, Jill

    • background of, 357

    • chef of, 349

    • cooking and, 351, 353

    • hosting of events, 356

  • Biden, Joseph R., 348, 349–57, 364

    • alcohol and, 351

    • chef of, 349

    • cooking and, 351

    • food preferences of, 350

    • hosting of events, 356

    • inauguration of, 349, 350, 356

    • marriage to Jill, 351

    • USDA and, 352–53

    • vice presidency of, 322, 350

  • Big Agriculture, 281, 317, 327, 352

  • Big Food, 315, 317, 318, 322, 327–28

  • Big Meat, 317, 327, 344

  • Billi Bi (Mussel Soup), recipe for, 386–87

  • Bill of Rights, 53

  • bipolar disorder in presidents, 120

  • Bittman, Mark, 371

  • Black Americans

    • Fifteenth Amendment and voting rights for, 80

    • lynchings of, 104

    • Reconstruction and, 83

    • White House and, 20, 26, 104–5

    • see also slavery and slaves

  • Blair House, 166, 167, 291

  • Blasingame, Ken, 308

  • Blass, Bill, 262

  • Bloomingdale, Betsy, 266

  • Blue Room, xxiv, 84, 140, 164, 189

  • Bocuse, Paul, 283

  • Bonaparte, Napoleon, Prince, 70

  • Booker, Cory, 354

  • Booth, John Wilkes, 77

  • Bornstein, Harold, 335

  • Boston Tea Party, 9

  • Bourdain, Anthony, 264, 303, 319, 320, 329–30

  • Bouvier, Jacqueline, see Kennedy, Jacqueline

  • Braden, Joan, 190

  • Braden, Tom, 190

  • Bradford, William, 75

  • Bradlee, Ben, 206, 254

  • Bradlee, Tony, 206

  • Bradley, Omar, 176

  • Brady, James, 257

  • Brandywine, Battle of, 4

  • “breaking bread” (ancient phrase), xiv

  • Bright Lights, Big City (McInerney), 284

  • Brillat-Savarin, Jean, 123

  • Britain, Battle of, 153

  • broccoli, 270–71, 285

  • Brownell, Herbert, 183

  • Brownell, Kelly, 328

  • Bryan, William Jennings, 113–14

  • Buchanan, James, 69–70, 73

  • Buchanan, Robert C., 88

  • Buck, Pearl, 203

  • Bui Van Han, 195

  • bulimia nervosa, 266

  • Bull Moose Party, 119

  • Bureau of Labor Statistics, 368

  • Bureau of Land Management, 352

  • Burger, Warren, 233

  • Burke, David, 337, 341

  • Burr, Aaron, xvii–xviii, 29, 52

  • Burt, Gahl Hodges, 265

  • Bush, Barbara (George H. W.’s wife), 303

    • chef of, 272, 273

    • cooking and, 271–72, 285

    • hosting of events, 271, 273, 292

    • marriage of, 272

    • mixed feelings on role of First Lady, 56

  • Bush, Barbara (George W.’s daughter), 298, 307

  • Bush, George H. W., 269, 270–74, 298, 303

    • affair with Jennifer Fitzgerald, 272

    • background of, 270

    • broccoli and, 270–71, 285

    • chefs of, 272, 273, 359

    • Cold War and, 98

    • in election of 1992, 271, 286

    • as “environmental president,” 325–26

    • fainting episode in Japan, 273, 305

    • food preferences of, 270, 271, 272, 297

    • hosting of events, 271, 273, 292

    • Iran-contra scandal and, 272

    • marriage of, 272

    • Presidential Salmon sent to, 137

    • vice presidency of, 257, 270

  • Bush, George W., 296, 297–312, 318, 342, 346

    • alcohol and, 298

    • background of, 298, 303

    • baseball and, 298, 299, 300

    • Big Food companies and, 315

    • chefs of, 297–98, 299–300, 302, 303–4, 306–12, 324, 341, 359

    • collapse-by-pretzel, 305, 359–60

    • diet of, 276

    • in election of 2000, 299

    • in election of 2004, 306

    • food preferences of, xxii, 297, 299–300, 304, 305, 306, 350

    • hosting of events, 264, 299–300, 303, 306, 308–9, 310

    • inaugural celebration of, 299

    • Iraq and, 302–3

    • marriage of, 298

    • religion and, 298

    • September 11, 2001, terrorist attacks and, 301, 302

    • Thanksgiving turkey and, 74

    • War on Terror, 302

    • wealth of, 298

  • Bush, Jenna, 298, 307

  • Bush, Laura Welch, 296, 346

    • chefs of, 297–98, 299–300, 303–5, 306–12, 324, 341

    • food preferences of, 297, 298, 304–5, 306

    • hosting of events, 300, 303, 306, 308–9, 310

    • marriage of, 298

    • religion and, 298

  • Bush, Robin, 272

  • Bush, Sarah “Sally,” see Lincoln, Sarah “Sally” (Abraham’s stepmother)

  • Butler, Benjamin, 87, 88

  • Butt, Archie, 102, 115

C

  • Cabot, Mabel “Muffie” Brandon, 254, 256

  • California

    • control of Mariposa Grove and Yosemite Valley, 109

    • statehood of, 83, 90

  • Callender, James, 43

  • Camelot, 191–92

  • Campbell, Mary, 149

  • Campbell’s, 141

  • Camp David, 206, 244, 245, 247

  • Camp David Accords, 248, 249, 362

  • Cannon, Poppy, 178

  • Cannon, “Uncle Joe,” 112

  • capital, federal, xiv, xvi–xvii, 13, 16, 20

  • Caravelle, La, 195, 196

  • Cargill, 315, 344

  • Carmody, Rachel, 19

  • Carow, Edith (Edie) Kermit, see Roosevelt, Edith (Edie)

  • Carter, Amy, 239, 242, 249, 253

  • Carter, Billy, 243

  • Carter, Donnel Jeffrey (Jeff), 242

  • Carter, James Earl (Chip), 242, 243

  • Carter, James Earl “Jimmy,” xx, 236, 237, 238–50, 255, 260

    • alcohol and, 243

    • background of, 238–39, 240, 241

    • Camp David Accords and, 244–49, 362

    • cooking and, 238, 239, 240

    • cooks of, 239, 241, 248, 249, 250

    • in election of 1976, 238

    • in election of 1980, 250

    • food enjoyed by, xxviii, 238, 239, 393

    • Grits of, recipe for, 393–94

    • hosting of events, 241, 242, 243, 244, 248, 249, 250, 256, 264

    • inauguration of, 252–53

    • Iran hostage crisis and, 250, 252

    • marriage of, 240, 272

    • Middle East and, 98

    • Nobel Peace Prize awarded to, 249

    • reduction of White House expenses, 242, 249

    • Thanksgiving turkey and, 74

  • Carter, John William (Jack), 242

  • Carter, Lillian, 238, 240, 241

  • Carter, Rosalynn, 236, 253, 254

    • alcohol and, 243

    • background of, 240–41

    • on Camp David Accords, 245–46, 247, 248, 249

    • cooking and, 238, 239, 240, 241

    • cooks of, 239, 241, 249, 250

    • food enjoyed by, 239

    • hosting of events, 240–41, 243–44, 245–46, 247, 248, 249, 250, 264

    • on Iran hostage crisis, 250

    • marriage of, 240, 272

    • reduction of White House expenses, 242, 249

    • Thanksgiving turkey and, 74

  • Casals, Pablo, 189–90, 191

  • Cassini, Oleg, 202

  • Catledge, Turner, 393

  • Caveau, Olive, 124

  • CBS, 195, 224

  • “celebrity chef” phenomenon, 281

  • Cerami, Charles A., xv

  • Chambrin, Pierre, 273, 278–79, 286

  • Charles, Prince, 265, 266

  • Chastellux, Marquis de, 11

  • Chefs Helping to Enhance Food Safety (CHEFS), 282

  • Cheney, Lynne, 308

  • Chernow, Ron, 7, 88

  • Cherries, Preserved, Martha Washington’s recipe for, 379–80

  • Cherwell, Frederick Alexander Lindemann, Lord, 158

  • Chew, Benjamin, 26

  • Chez Panisse, 49, 127, 282

  • Chiang Kai-shek, Madame, 152

  • Chicago Tribune, 165

  • Child, Charles, xxiii

  • Child, Julia, xxiii, 197, 280, 287, 372

    • championing role of presidential dining, xxvi, 239–40

    • documentaries about White House dinners, xxiii–xxiv, xxv, xxvi, 236, 359

    • The French Chef and, xxiii, 197

    • Mastering the Art of French Cooking, xxiii, 197

    • reverse martini and, 389

  • Child, Lydia Maria, 14

  • Child, Paul, xxiii–xxiv, xxv, 389

  • childhood obesity, 320, 328

  • chili, 213

  • Chili, Lady Bird’s Pedernales River, recipe for, 391–92

  • China

    • COVID-19 and, 343

    • invasion of India, 202

    • Nixon’s visit to, 98, 226–31, 267

    • Russia and, 227

    • Vietnam and, 227

  • Chinese Exclusion Act, xxviii

  • Chinese food (in the United States), xxvii–xxviii, 177–78, 231

  • Chinese immigrants, xxvii–xxviii

  • Christie, Chris, 332, 334

  • Chronicles of the Pilgrim Fathers of the Colony of Plymouth (Young), 76

  • Churchill, Clementine, 155

  • Churchill, Winston, 153–56, 157–58, 171–72

  • CIA, 202

  • Cincinnatus, 10

  • Citizens Food Committee, 166, 178

  • City Tavern, 13

  • civil rights, 210, 212, 213, 214

  • Civil Rights Act, 214, 292

  • Civil War, 70, 79–80, 90, 158

    • Battle of Appomattox and, 80, 88

    • Battle of Fort Sumter and, 60

    • Battle of Gettysburg and, 72, 73

    • Battle of Vicksburg and, 72

    • hospital in U.S. Patent Office Building during, 61

    • Lincoln and, 59, 60

    • number of people killed during, 59, 368

    • poisoning of wells during, 158

    • Sherman’s scorched-earth campaign during, 158

    • sugar demand during, 90

  • Claiborne, Craig, 196, 280, 386

  • Clark, Patrick, 283–84, 292, 311

  • Claxton, Thomas, 25, 26

  • Clay, Henry, 55

  • Clean Plate campaign, 127

  • Cleveland, Grover, 109, 119

  • Cliburn, Van, 211, 268

  • Clifford, Clark, 254

  • Clinton, Chelsea, 286, 288, 293, 294, 361

  • Clinton, Hillary Rodham, 56, 361

    • background of, 286, 298

    • changes to dining at the White House, 278–80, 281–82, 289

    • chefs of, 278–79, 283–84, 286, 287, 288–91, 292–93, 303–4, 305, 310, 359

    • china of, 292

    • cooking and, 285, 286, 354

    • in election of 2008, 320

    • in election of 2016, 285, 310

    • food preferences of, 286, 288, 297, 304

    • hosting of events, 278, 284, 289–93, 294, 303

    • marriage of, 285

    • national health-care system taskforce of, 288

  • Clinton, Roger, Sr., 285

  • Clinton, William J. “Bill,” 277, 278–95, 322, 342, 361

    • background of, 284, 285, 303

    • changes to dining at the White House, 278–80, 281–82

    • chefs of, 278–79, 283–84, 287, 288–91, 292–93, 303–4

    • diet of, 276, 279, 283, 284–85, 286, 288, 294

    • in election of 1992, 278, 284–85, 286

    • food preferences of, 284–85, 288, 297, 304, 350

    • health of, 279, 294

    • hosting of events, 278–79, 284, 289–93, 294, 303, 356

    • impeachment of, 293

    • Mandela and, 292

    • marriage of, 285

    • sexual impropriety of, 285, 288, 293, 294

    • Yeltsin and, 291–92

  • CNN, 273, 335

  • Cockrell, Lila, 236

  • Cohen, Sacha Baron, 336

  • Cold War

    • Berlin Airlift during, 166

    • Bush (George H. W.) and, 98

    • Eisenhower and, 181, 185

    • Kennedy and, 193

    • Truman Doctrine and, 165

  • Colicchio, Tom, 354

  • Colleary, Eric, 384, 385

  • colonists, cooking of, 2, 15

  • Colquist, Elizabeth, 124

  • Columbia University, 172, 315

  • Columbus, Christopher, 195

  • Comerford, Cristeta “Cris” Gomez Pasia, 301, 310, 351, 359

    • as executive chef for Bidens, 349

    • as executive chef for Bushes (George W.), 311–12

    • as executive chef for Obamas, 324

    • as executive chef for Trumps, 341, 342

  • Comey, James, 332–33

  • commensality, 27–28, 31, 57, 240

  • Commission for Relief in Belgium, 126

  • Compleat Housewife, The (Smith), 15

  • Conagra, 327

  • Confederate troops, 60, 81, 89, 158

  • Congress, U.S., 34–35

    • appropriation for renovations, 106

    • Carter and, 247

    • creation of Yosemite National Park, 109

    • Eisenhower and, 173

    • food safety laws and, 112

    • GIPSA funding and, 327

    • Grant and, 86

    • Head Start and, 213

    • Hoover and, 134

    • Jefferson and, 34–35

    • joint meetings of, 91

    • joint sessions of, 91

    • LBJ and, 209

    • Madison and, 55, 57

    • National Prohibition Act of, 131

    • Reagan and, 257

    • World War I and, 125

    • World War II and, 140, 155

  • Connally, John, 207

  • Connally, Nellie, 207

  • Conrad and McMunn’s, 31

  • conservation, 101, 107–11, 120

  • Constitution, xvi

  • Continental army, 4–8

  • Continental Congress, 6

  • Cook, Blanche Wiesen, 150

  • cookbooks, family, 14, 15

  • cooking with fire, human evolution and, 19–20

  • Coolidge, Calvin, xxviii, 73–74, 131–33, 177

  • Coolidge, Calvin, Jr., 132

  • Coolidge, Grace, 132–33

  • Coolidge, John, 132

  • Cooper, James Fenimore, 33–34

  • Coopersmith, Esther, 215

  • Coors, Joseph, 253

  • Copland, Aaron, 189

  • corn, 64, 65, 92–93, 371

  • corn dodgers, 65

  • Cornell University, 144

  • Cosway, Maria, 43

  • cottage cheese, 219–20

  • COVID-19, xvii, 354

    • Big Meat and, 344

    • family meals during, 370

    • global supply chains and, 343, 371

    • number of estimated deaths from, 368

    • origins of, 343

    • pandemic, 27, 213, 343–44, 367–68

    • research on, 352

    • restaurants and, 344, 355

    • Trumps and, 340, 368

    • vaccines, 356

  • Cowles, Anna “Bamie,” 100, 102

  • Cox, Archibald, 233

  • cranberry scare of 1959, 221–22

  • Cronkite, Walter, 195, 224, 230

  • Crook, William H., 60, 63

  • Cuba, 204

  • Cuomo, Chris, 304

  • currency, constitutional amendment on, 83

  • Custis, Daniel, 15

  • Custis, Eleanor Parke, 379

  • Custis, George Washington Parke, 11, 12, 17

  • Custis, Martha, see Washington, Martha

  • Custis, Nelly, 15

  • Cyrus (Washington’s waiter), 18

  • Czolgosz, Leon F., 100

D

  • DACOR Bacon House, 360

  • Dalí, Salvador, 195

  • Dandridge, Martha, see Washington, Martha

  • Danielle, Britni, 44

  • Davies, Hugh, 226

  • Davies, Jack, 226

  • Davis, Bob, 170

  • Davis, Deborah, 105

  • Davis, Jefferson, 71

  • Davis, Rich, 306

  • D-day invasion of Normandy, 156, 171

  • Deaver, Michael, 254, 261

  • debt, national, xiv, xvi, xvii, 32

  • Declaration of Independence, 31, 43, 50, 57

  • “Declarations of the Rights of Man and of the Citizen,” 44–45

  • Defense Production Act, 344

  • de Gaulle, Charles, 196, 200, 204

  • DeGeneres, Ellen, 328

  • De Guzman, Ariel, 272

  • Delaware tribe, 141

  • Delmonico’s, 115, 141

  • Democratic Party, 68, 70, 87, 114

  • Democratic-Republicans, xiv, 29, 32, 54

  • Dent, “Colonel” Frederick, 81–82

  • Department of Agriculture, U.S., 263, 318–19, 327, 352–53, 371

  • Department of Education, U.S., 249

  • Department of Energy, U.S., 249

  • Desmond, Ruth, 222

  • Dewey, Thomas, 165

  • Diana, Princess, 265, 266

  • Dickens, Charles, 33, 93

  • Dietrich, Marlene, 195

  • Dining at Monticello (Fowler, ed.), 381

  • Dinkins, David, 292

  • Dinner Table Bargain, xiii–xvii, 20, 46, 140, 370

  • Directions for Cookery, in Its Various Branches (Leslie), 66

  • District of Columbia, creation of, 20

  • Dolliver, Jonathan, 119

  • Dos Passos, John, 203

  • Doud, Marie Geneva “Mamie,” see Eisenhower, Marie Geneva “Mamie”

  • Douglas, Kirk, xxiv

  • Douglas, Stephen A., 68, 384

  • Douglass, Frederick, 72, 76, 104

  • draft, 83

  • DuBois, Thaddeus, 307

  • Dukakis, Michael, 272

  • Duke University Medical Center, 120

  • Dulles, John Foster, 183, 184

  • dumbwaiters, xv, 50, 146

  • Dunbar, Robin, 27, 28

  • Dunham, Stanley Ann, 314, 315

  • Dunne, Finley Peter, 111

  • du Plessix Gray, Francine, 370

E

  • Earhart, Amelia, 150

  • East Room

    • Abigail Adams and, xxi, 26

    • Clintons and, 292

    • concerts by musicians in, xxv, 104

    • Eisenhower and, 185

    • FDR and, 159

    • Fords and, 235

    • Grants and, 84, 91, 93–94

    • Kennedys and, 189, 203

    • Lincoln and, 60, 77

    • Reagans and, 268

    • weddings in, 217

  • Eastwood, Clint, 300

  • Eater, 345

  • eating in a group, see commensality; group meals

  • Economic Recovery Program, 257

  • Economist, The, xxv

  • Edible Schoolyard Project, 351

  • Education, U.S. Department of, 249

  • Egypt, 244–47, 248–49

  • Ehrlichman, John, 229

  • Eighteenth Amendment, 131

  • Eight Is Enough (Braden), 190

  • Eisenhower, David, 170, 185, 219

  • Eisenhower, Doud Dwight “Ikky,” 171, 176

  • Eisenhower, Dwight D. “Ike,” xix, 98, 136, 169, 170–86, 193, 325

    • alcohol and, 177, 179, 181

    • Atoms for Peace and, 179

    • background of, 170, 238

    • baseball and, 299

    • Camp David and, 245

    • Churchill and, 171–72

    • Citizens Food Committee and, 178

    • Cold War and, 181, 185

    • as Columbia University president, 172

    • cooking and, 170, 171–72, 179–80, 186, 239

    • cooks of, 176, 179, 180–81, 182, 184–86

    • diet of, 182

    • Eisenhower Steak of, recipe for, 180, 390–91

    • in election of 1956, 183–84, 185

    • farm of, 179, 182–83

    • food enjoyed by, xxviii, 81, 141, 177–78, 181

    • Food for Peace and, 180

    • Hawaii and, 92

    • health of, 181–83, 184, 185

    • hosting of events, 173–75, 179–80, 190, 194, 267

    • inaugurations of, 167–68, 173, 185

    • Kay Summersby and, 176–77

    • marriage of, 171, 175, 176–77, 178, 181–82

    • military career of, 170–72, 174, 176

    • Nixon and, 183–84, 221

    • squirrel soup and, xxii

    • television and, 178, 179, 262

    • Thanksgiving and, 74

    • Truman and, 167–68

  • Eisenhower, Ida, 170

  • Eisenhower, John, 171

  • Eisenhower, Julie Nixon, 185, 219, 231, 232

  • Eisenhower, Marie Geneva “Mamie,” 56, 172, 195, 307

    • activism as First Lady, 176

    • background of, 171

    • command of Executive Mansion, 175–76

    • cooks of, 176, 177, 180–81, 185–86

    • on cranberry contamination, 222

    • at Dwight’s inauguration, 173

    • on election of 1956, 184

    • entertaining and, 175, 177, 185, 190, 194

    • farm of, 179

    • food enjoyed by, 176

    • health of, 175

    • at inaugural balls, 175

    • marriage of, 171, 175, 176–77, 178, 181–82

    • television and, 178, 262

  • Eisenhower, Milton, 170, 183, 184

  • Eisenhower Steak, 180, 390–91

  • Elizabeth, Queen, xxv, xxvi, 150, 151, 236, 273

  • Emancipation Proclamation, 72

  • Emhoff, Cole, 353

  • Emhoff, Doug, 353, 354

  • endorphins, 28

  • Energy, U.S. Department of, 249

  • Erhard, Ludwig, 211, 212

  • Escoffier, Auguste, 142, 290

  • executive chef, title of, 16, 181, 189

  • Executive Kitchen, xxii, xxiii, 144, 146, 283, 293, 309, 373

  • Executive Mansion, see White House

  • Exner, Judith Campbell, 205

F

  • Family Circle, 285

  • family meals, 368–69, 370

  • Farragut, David, 62

  • fast food

    • Americans’ spending on, 369

    • Trump and, 332, 334–37

  • Faulkner, William, 47

  • FDA (Food and Drug Administration), 112–13, 222, 304

  • feasts, power of, 35–36

  • Federalist Party, 29, 32, 34

  • Federal Meat Inspection Act, 112

  • Federation of Homemakers, 222

  • Felipe VI, 343

  • Felten, Eric, 383

  • Fessaguet, Roger, 195–96

  • Fey, Tina, 303

  • Fields, Alonzo, 167

  • Fifteenth Amendment, 80

  • Fillmore, Millard, 73

  • financial panic of 1857, 70

  • fire, control of, as an evolutionary change, 19–20

  • First Ladies

    • role of, xix, 56, 189

    • selection of White House porcelain, xxi

    • see also specific First Ladies

  • Fish, Hamilton, 91

  • Fishbach, Ayelet, 337, 369, 370–71

  • Fisher, Irving, 120–21

  • Fisher, M.F.K., 281

  • Fitzgerald, Ella, 193

  • Fitzgerald, Jennifer, 272

  • Fitzgerald, Rose, see Kennedy, Rose

  • Fitzgerald, Thomas, 198

  • Fitzwater, Marlin, 273

  • Fleischer, Ari, 305

  • Flemming, Arthur, 221, 222

  • Florida, 69, 110

  • Flowers, Gennifer, 285

  • food

    • aid, world’s largest supplier of, 180

    • conservation, 166

    • grief and, 39–40

    • as political, 320, 344–45, 369

    • sex and, 44

    • as a weapon of war, 157–58

  • Food Administration, U.S., 125, 126, 128, 134

  • Food and Drug Administration (FDA), 112–13, 222, 304

  • Food and Fuel Control Act, 125

  • Food for Peace, 180

  • food gifts, presidential, 37–38

  • foodie, definition of, 315

  • Food Network, 281

  • food safety

    • cranberry scare of 1959, 221–22

    • T. Roosevelt and, 111–12

  • food stamp program, 224

  • Forbes, 352

  • Ford, Betty, xxv, 233, 234, 235, 249

  • Ford, Gerald R., xix, xxv, 234, 234–36, 239, 249, 273

  • Forest Service, U.S., 110

  • Forgione, Larry, 278

  • Fort Sumter, Battle of, 60

  • Foster, Jodie, 257

  • Foster, Vince, 288

  • Fowler, Damon Lee, 381

  • Fox, Vicente, 300

  • France

    • Freedom Principle in, 43

    • Indochina (Vietnam) and, 179, 200

    • opposition to Bush’s invasion of Iraq, 302–3

    • slavery and, 42

    • Soviet Union and, 212

    • tarragon in, 381

    • World War I and, 124, 126

    • World War II and, 155, 156, 200

  • Franco, Francisco, 190

  • Franey, Pierre, 196, 386

  • Frank Leslie’s Weekly, 70

  • Franklin, Benjamin, 40, 89

  • Franz Ferdinand, Archduke, 124

  • Fraunces, Samuel, 9, 13, 16

  • Fraunces Tavern, 9

  • Fredericksburg, Battle of, 61

  • Freedman, Paul, 280

  • French Chef, The, xxiii, 197

  • French Chef in America, The (Prud’homme), xxiii

  • French Revolution, 32, 44–45

  • Frost, Robert, 203

  • Funding Act, xvii

G

  • Galt, Edith Bolling, see Wilson, Edith Bolling Galt

  • Garden Book (Jefferson), 48

  • Garfield, James, xxii

  • Garr, Vietta, 164, 167

  • Gautier, Charles, 70

  • Gellhorn, Martha, 148

  • gender roles, defining of, 20

  • General Mills, 222

  • Gentry Serenader, 215

  • George III, 7, 10, 151

  • George VI, 150–52, 172

  • Georgia, 69

  • Germany

    • American Relief Administration (ARA) and, 134

    • Berlin blockade and, 166

    • LBJ and, 211–12

    • Nazi, 150, 155

    • Treaty of Versailles and, 130

    • World War I and, 124, 125, 126, 130, 158, 161

    • World War II and, 152, 155, 158, 162

  • Gettysburg, Battle of, 72, 73

  • Gettysburg Address, 72

  • Giancana, Sam, 205

  • Gibson, Bob, xxiv

  • gifts, presidential food, 37–38

  • Gilded Age, 83

  • Gill, Brendan, 215

  • Gingerbread Men, Abraham Lincoln’s, recipe for, 384–85

  • Gingrich, Newt, 289

  • GIPSA (Grain Inspection, Packers, and Stockyards Administration), 327

  • Glasse, Hannah, 14

  • Glavine, Tom, 299

  • Glenn, John, 203

  • GMOs (genetically modified organisms), 328, 352

  • Godey’s Lady’s Book (Hale), 72

  • gold rush, xxvii, 90

  • Goldwater, Barry, 214, 215

  • golf

    • Taft and, 119

    • Wilson and, 128

  • Good Housekeeper, The (Hale), 71

  • Gopalan, Shyamala, 353–54

  • Gopnik, Adam, 345–46

  • Gorbachev, Mikhail, 266–67, 268

  • Gorbachev, Raisa, 266–67, 268

  • Gordon-Reed, Annette, 46, 47

  • Gore, Al, Jr., 281–82, 299

  • gorillas, 20, 28

  • Goudiss, Alberta, 127

  • Goudiss, Houston, 127

  • gourmand, definition of, xxii

  • Gourmet, 317

  • graft, 83

  • Graham, Billy, 298

  • Graham, Katharine, 254

  • Grande Taverne de Londres, 40

  • Grant (Chernow), 88

  • Grant, Cary, 255

  • Grant, Ellen “Nellie,” 79, 81, 93–94

  • Grant, Frederick, 79, 81

  • Grant, Hannah, 82

  • Grant, Jesse (Ulysses’s father), 82

  • Grant, Jesse (Ulysses’s son), 79, 81

  • Grant, Julia, 80, 95

    • background of, 82

    • cooks for, 79, 82, 85–86

    • entertaining and, 82, 84–86, 89, 91

    • food preferences of, 81, 85

    • marriage of, 79, 88

    • Nellie’s wedding and, 93–94

    • renovation of the White House, 83–84

  • Grant, Ulysses “Buck,” Jr., 79, 81

  • Grant, Ulysses S., 78–95

    • alcohol and, 79, 86, 87–89

    • background of, 79

    • Civil War and, 59, 79–80, 88

    • Congress and, 86

    • cooks for, 79, 82, 85–86

    • death of, 95

    • food preferences of, 81, 85, 86, 92

    • Holidays Act and, 73

    • hosting of events, xxi, 80, 84, 85–86, 89, 91–92

    • inaugural balls of, 80–81, 89

    • King Kalakaua and, 89–90, 91–92, 362, 365

    • marriage of, 79, 88

    • Memoirs of, 88, 95

    • Mexican-American War and, 79, 88

    • Nellie’s wedding and, 93–94

    • physical description of, 81

    • scandals and, 94

    • on Washington, D.C., 83

  • Grant administration, 94

  • Grassley, Charles “Chuck,” 317

  • Grayson, Cary, 128, 388

  • Great Britain

    • Operation Vittles and, 166

    • Reagan and, 255–56

    • Treaty of Paris and, 9

    • War of 1812 and, 57

    • World War I and, 124, 125, 126, 150

    • World War II and, 153

  • Great Depression, 98, 124, 137

  • Great Society, 212–13

  • Greeley, Horace, 59

  • Greene, Nathanael, 7

  • green revolution, 98

  • Green Room, 34, 61, 177, 189, 214, 292

  • Greenspan, Alan, 254

  • grief and food, 39–40

  • Griscom, Lloyd, 102

  • grits, 239, 393–94

  • Grizzly Giant, 108

  • Grocery Manufacturers Association, 325

  • group meals, 27–28, 370–71

    • see also commensality

  • Guérard, Michel, 283–84

  • Guest of Honor (Davis), 105

H

  • Haber, Barbara, 150

  • Hagerty, James C., 183

  • Haig, Alexander, 228, 229, 233

  • Haldeman, H. R. “Bob,” 220, 225, 228

  • Hale, Sarah Josepha, 71, 72–73

  • Hall, Leonard, 183

  • Haller, Henry, 283

    • as executive chef for Carters, 239, 241, 248, 249, 250

    • as executive chef for Fords, xxv–xxvi, 234, 236, 249

    • as executive chef for Johnsons, xxiv–xxv, 216–17, 249

    • as executive chef for Nixons, 219, 220, 223–24, 233, 249

    • as executive chef for Reagans, 249, 253, 256, 259, 262, 265

    • grits recipe of, 393

    • retirement of, 267–68

  • Hamilton, xvii–xviii

  • Hamilton, Alexander, xiii–xvii, 27, 140, 370

  • Hamilton, Richard, 310–11

  • Hand, Lloyd, 361, 363, 364

  • Hanks, Dennis, 65

  • Hanks, John, 63

  • Hanks, Tom, 349

  • Hannah (enslaved cook for Washington), 7

  • Hannity, Sean, 316

  • Harding, Warren Gamaliel, xix, 131

  • Harleth, Timothy, 359

  • Harrington, Michael, 209

  • Harris, Donald J., 353

  • Harris, Julie, 204

  • Harris, Kamala, 276, 349, 353–56

  • Harrison, Benjamin, 106

  • Harrison, Caroline, 176

  • Hartman, Phil, 284

  • “Hasty Pudding, The” (Barlow), 11

  • Hawaii, 89–92

  • Hayden, Brian, 35–36

  • Hayes, Rutherford B., 104, 113, 178

  • Head Start, 212, 213

  • “Healthy Breakfast,” Woodrow Wilson’s, recipe for, 388

  • Healthy, Hunger-Free Kids Act, 328

  • Heinz, 141, 338

  • Hemings, James

    • alcohol and, 42, 46

    • culinary training in France, xiv, 41–42, 46

    • Dinner Table Bargain and, xiii–xiv, xv, xvi, 46

    • father of, 44

    • freedom of, 43, 46–47

    • as head chef at Hôtel de Langeac, 42

    • in Philadelphia, 46

    • suicide of, 47

  • Hemings, Peter, 46, 48, 49, 50

  • Hemings, Sally, 42–44, 47

  • Hemingway, Ernest, 148, 203

  • Hemingway, Mary, 203

  • Henry, Patrick, 41

  • Hercules (a.k.a. Uncle Harkless), 16–17, 18–19, 180

  • Heritage Harvest Festival, 48–49

  • Herman Goelitz Candy Company, 260–61, 350

  • Hern, Edith “Edy,” 48, 50

  • Hern, Frances “Franny” Gillette, 48, 50

  • Herron, Helen (Nellie), see Taft, Helen (Nellie) Herron

  • Hersey, John, 165

  • Hess, Karen, 15, 31, 380

  • Heston, Charlton, 255

  • Hibben, Sheila, 144

  • Hickok, Lorena, 150

  • high-fructose corn syrup (HFCS), 93, 338, 339

  • Hill, Clint, 206

  • Hill, Jon, 268, 287

  • Hilton, Washington, 257

  • Hinckley, John W., Jr., 257, 260

  • Hiroshima, atomic bombing of, 161, 163

  • Hitler, Adolf, 150, 151, 154, 158

  • Hoban, James, 20, 24, 106

  • hoecakes, 10–11

  • Holidays Act, 73

  • home-cooked meals, benefits of, 369

  • Hoover, Herbert, 98, 133–38, 315

    • American Relief Administration (ARA) and, 134

    • background of, 134

    • chefs of, 135

    • Commission for Relief in Belgium and, 126

    • in election of 1932, 137–38, 145

    • entertaining and, 135

    • Food Administration and, 125–27, 134, 165, 180, 303

    • Great Depression and, 137

    • innovative food policies of, xxii

    • marriage of, 135

    • Presidential Salmon sent to, 136, 362

    • wealth of, 134

  • Hoover, Lou, 135, 138

  • Hoover Dam, 137

  • Hoovervilles, 137

  • Hope, Bob, xxvi

  • Hopkins, Diana, 325

  • Hopkins, Harry, 154, 325

  • Houston, Whitney, 292

  • Hoyt, Mary Finch, 243

  • Hughes, Charles Evans, 125

  • Humphrey, George M., 183

  • Humphrey, Hubert, xxiv, 180, 215, 219

  • Hutchinson, Cassidy, 339

  • Hyman, Mark, 294

I

  • ice cream

    • invention of, 42

    • as Jefferson’s signature dessert, xvi, 35

  • immigrants

    • European, arrival of, 83

    • integration of food into American diet, 98

    • in meat processing plants, 344

    • quotas on, lifting of, xxviii

    • in sugar production, 91

  • Immigration and Customs Enforcement, 344

  • impeachment, 57, 80, 87, 293, 353, 364

  • Inaugural Orange Punch, Andrew Jackson’s, recipe for, 383

  • Incas, 36

  • Independent, 279

  • India

    • China’s invasion of, 202

    • Churchill and, 158

    • Kennedy and, 202

  • Indochina, 179, 200

  • Industrial Revolution, 2

  • Intermediate-Range Nuclear Forces (INF) Treaty, 267

  • internet and food, 281

  • Iran, 42

  • Iran-contra scandal, 272

  • Iran hostage crisis, 250, 252

  • Iraq, 302–3

  • Iron Chef (Scheib), 309

  • iron stove, transition from cooking over fire in a hearth to, 67

  • Irving, Washington, 52, 54

  • Isaac (enslaved cook for Washington), 7

  • Israel, 244–47, 248–49

  • Italy, 152

J

  • Jackson, Andrew, xx, 253, 364

    • food preferences of, 81

    • inaugural celebration of, 104, 383

    • Inaugural Orange Punch of, recipe for, 383

    • orangery of, 325

    • War of 1812 and, 57

  • Jackson, Jesse, 292

  • Jackson Daily News, 224

  • Jacobs, Dominic (né Giacoppa), 357

  • Jaffray, Elizabeth, 115, 116, 117, 124

  • James, Henry, 93, 94

  • January 6, 2021, riot at the Capitol Building, 339, 349

  • Japan

    • atomic bombing of, 161, 163

    • attack on Pearl Harbor, 152

    • Clintons and, 290–91

    • donations of cherry trees to United States, 117

    • George H. W. Bush’s visit to, 273, 305

    • LBJ and, xxiv–xxv

    • World War II and, 152, 158, 161

  • Jefferson, Isaac Granger, 45, 49

  • Jefferson, Martha “Patsy” (Thomas’s daughter), 34, 39, 40, 43, 47

  • Jefferson, Martha Wayles Skelton (Thomas’s wife), 39, 44

  • Jefferson, Mary “Polly,” 34, 39, 42–43, 47

  • Jefferson, Randolph, 44

  • Jefferson, Thomas, xx, 14, 30, 31–50, 189, 302

    • Adams and, 27, 29

    • background of, 31, 47

    • cooks of, xiii–xiv, xv, xvi, 33, 39, 41–42, 43, 46–47, 48, 50

    • Declaration of Independence and, 31, 43, 50

    • Dinner Table Bargain and, xiii–xvii, 20, 46, 140, 370

    • in election of 1800, 29

    • entertaining and, xvi, 28, 29, 32, 34–35, 36–37, 179

    • fruit trees and flowers of, 325

    • Garden Book, 48

    • garden of, 47–48, 381

    • giant cheese gifted to, 37–38, 362, 364

    • grief and, 39, 120

    • heavy debts of, 38–39, 43, 49

    • inauguration as president, 31

    • influence on more egalitarian social system in Washington, 36–37, 360

    • James Hemings and, xiii–xiv, xv, xvi, 41–42, 43, 46–47

    • JFK on, 203

    • marriage of, 39

    • Memorandum on Official Etiquette (1804), 37

    • “Merry Affair” and, 37, 53

    • as minister to France, 40–43, 44–45

    • Monticello and, 32, 45, 46, 47–48, 49–50

    • Salad with Tarragon Vinegar Dressing of, recipe for, 381–82

    • Sally Hemings and, 42–44

    • as secretary of state, 46

    • slavery and, 26, 31, 42, 43–44, 47, 48, 49, 50, 75

    • tarragon and, 381

    • vegetable-forward diet of, xv, 33, 34, 364

    • vice presidency of, 24

    • Washington and, xvi, 46, 379

    • White House and, 31–33, 34–35, 38, 53

    • wine and, xv, xvi, 32, 34, 38, 41, 42, 45, 48, 54

  • Jelly Bellys, 260–61

  • Jeni’s Splendid Ice Cream chain, 350

  • Jennings, Paul, 57

  • Jesus, 28

  • Jetton, Walter, 211, 214, 215

  • Jewett, James C., 53

  • Johanns, Mike, 304

  • John Paul II, 249

  • Johnson, Andrew, xix, 80, 87, 88, 349

  • Johnson, Claudia Alta “Lady Bird,” 223

    • background of, 210

    • cooks of, 213, 216–17

    • hosting of events, 211

    • as JFK’s hostess, 205

    • Pedernales River Chili of, recipe for, 391–92

    • planting of cherry trees donated by Japan, 117

    • ranch of, 209, 210, 211, 213

  • Johnson, Howard, Sr., 196

  • Johnson, Luci Baines, 217

  • Johnson, Lynda Bird, 217

  • Johnson, Lyndon B. (LBJ), 208, 209–17, 361

    • background of, 209

    • barbecue diplomacy of, 209–12, 216, 260, 264, 332, 363

    • bipolar disorder and, 120

    • Childs and, xxiii–xxiv

    • chili and, xxii

    • civil rights and, 210, 212, 213, 214, 292

    • Congress and, 209

    • cooks of, 213–14, 215–17, 341, 391

    • in election of 1948, 214

    • in election of 1964, 214–15

    • favorite food of, 213–14, 215, 223

    • Great Society and, 212–13

    • health of, 214

    • Kennedy and, 210, 211, 391

    • Presidential Salmon sent to, 137

    • ranch of, 209–11, 212, 213

    • state dinner for prime minister of Japan, xxiv–xxv

    • Vietnam War and, 217

    • war on poverty, 209, 212

    • Zephyr Wright and, 213–14, 215, 216

  • Johnson, Paul B., Jr., 224

  • Johnson, Sam, 391

  • Johnston, Sarah “Sally” Bush, see Lincoln, Sarah “Sally” (Abraham’s stepmother)

  • John Tayloe House, 57

  • Jones, Paula, 293

  • Jones, Walter B., 303

  • Jordan, Vernon, 254

  • Jorgensen, Earle, 253

  • Judge, Ona, 17–18

  • Julien, Honoré, 33, 35, 48

  • Jungle, The (Sinclair), 111, 112

K

  • Kalakaua, David, King of Hawaii, 89–90, 91–92, 362, 365

  • Kaling, Mindy, 354

  • Kaltman, Mary, 216

  • Kansas-Nebraska Act, 67

  • Kass, Sam, 321–22, 324, 326

  • Kazan, Elia, 204

  • Keats, John, 188

  • Keckly, Elizabeth, 72

  • Kelly, Gene, 193

  • Kennedy, Caroline, 199

  • Kennedy, Ethel, 206

  • Kennedy, Jacqueline, 178, 186, 187, 198, 207, 211, 252, 254

    • background of, 192, 199

    • cook of, 98, 189, 195–96, 197

    • executive chef title as creation of, 16, 181, 189, 287

    • food and, 189, 199

    • gastronomic revolution of, 56

    • honorary Emmy Award of, 195

    • hosting of events, 188–91, 194, 200–201, 202–3, 204, 265, 266, 332

    • marriage to JFK, 192–93, 205–6

    • reaction to son’s death, 206

    • redefining role of First Lady, 176, 189

    • soft power of, 200

    • updating of White House decor, 194–95

    • on the White House, xviii

  • Kennedy, John, Jr., 199

  • Kennedy, John F. (JFK), 187, 187–207, 286

    • alcohol and, 194

    • assassination of, 74, 131, 191, 192, 207, 209, 211, 260, 391

    • background of, 192, 198, 210

    • baseball and, 299

    • Camelot and, 191–92

    • cook of, 98, 189, 196, 197

    • Cuba and, 200, 204

    • de Gaulle and, 200

    • in election of 1960, 193, 210, 222

    • favorite food of, xxii, 195, 197, 198–99

    • health of, 198

    • hosting of events, 188, 189–91, 194, 199, 201–3, 204, 216, 265, 332

    • inauguration of, 193, 252

    • infidelities of, 205

    • informal pardoning of turkey, 74

    • Johnson and, 210, 211

    • Khan and, 201–2

    • marriage of, 192–93, 205–6

    • reaction to son’s death, 206

    • Soviet Union and, 204

  • Kennedy, Joseph, Jr., 193

  • Kennedy, Joseph “Joe,” Sr., 193, 195, 198

  • Kennedy, Patricia, 206

  • Kennedy, Patrick (Joe Kennedy’s grandfather), 198

  • Kennedy, Patrick Bouvier, 206

  • Kennedy, Robert F. (RFK), 206, 219, 224

  • Kennedy, Rose, 198, 205

  • Kennedy, Ted, 206

  • Kennedy administration, 186, 282

  • Kennedy Center Honors, 347, 370

  • Kenya, 158, 293

  • Kerr, Graham, 280, 287

  • Kerry, John, 330

  • ketchup, 338

  • Khan, Ayub, 200, 201–2

  • Khomeini, Ayatollah, 250

  • Khrushchev, Nikita, 185, 193, 204, 267

  • King, Martin Luther, Jr., 207, 219

  • King Philip’s War, 75

  • Kissinger, Henry, 225, 228, 254

  • “Kiss to the Bride, A” (Whitman), 94

  • Kline, Franz, 204

  • Kluge estate, 342

  • Kohan, Eddie Gehman, 317

  • Korean War, 166, 167, 226

  • Koufax, Sandy, 299

  • Ku Klux Klan, 129

  • Kummer, Corby, 361, 364, 367

  • Kushner, Charles, 334

  • Kushner, Jared, 334

L

  • Lady’s Receipt-Book, The (Leslie), 384

  • Lafayette, Marquis de, 7, 42, 44

  • Lagasse, Emeril, 281

  • land conservation, 101, 107–10

  • Lane, Harriet, 69

  • language, development of, 20

  • Last of the Mohicans, The (Cooper), 33

  • Latrobe, Benjamin, 53

  • Lawford, Peter, 206

  • League of Nations, 130

  • Lee, Alice (Sunny) Hathaway, see Roosevelt, Alice (Theodore’s wife)

  • Lee, Frank, 18

  • Lee, Robert E., 59, 80

  • Leeds, William B., 116, 386

  • Leidig, Charlie, 108, 110

  • Lemaire, Étienne, 32–33, 35, 38

  • L’Enfant, Pierre, 20

  • Lenox, 263

  • Leonard, Archie, 108

  • Leonardo da Vinci, 204

  • Lerner, Alan Jay, 191

  • Leslie, Eliza, 66, 384

  • Létombe, Philippe de, 32

  • “Let’s Move!” campaign, 328

  • levees, 14, 37, 54, 70

  • Levenstein, Harvey, 33

  • Lévi-Strauss, Claude, 359

  • Lewandowski, Corey, 334, 335

  • Lewinsky, Monica, 293

  • Lewis, Meriwether, 35

  • Lewis, Rachel, 16

  • Library of Congress, xxviii

  • Life, 192

  • Life of Washington, The (Weems), 379

  • Light Horses, 13

  • Lincoln, Abraham, xxi, xxvii, 58–77, 323, 336, 360, 363

    • Agriculture Department and, 318

    • alcohol and, 71

    • assassination of, 60, 69, 77, 257

    • background of, 63–65, 67

    • Civil War and, 59, 60

    • courtship of Mary and, 65–66

    • diet of, 59–60, 63

    • in election of 1860, 67–68, 384

    • Emancipation Proclamation of, 72

    • food and, xxviii, 59–60, 63–65, 66, 67–68, 69

    • Gettysburg Address of, 72

    • Gingerbread Men and, 67–68, 384–85

    • health of, 59

    • “House Divided” speech of, 320

    • marriage of, 63, 66–67, 69

    • second inauguration of, 59, 60–63, 87

    • slavery and, 60, 68, 69, 70, 72

    • Sojourner Truth and, 104

    • on son’s death, 72

    • Thanksgiving Day and, 72, 73, 76

    • Yosemite Grant and, 109

  • Lincoln, Mary Todd, 82, 262, 384

    • alcohol and, 71

    • courtship of Abraham and, 65–66

    • election of 1860 and, 68

    • entertaining and, 70–72, 104

    • grief after son’s death, 72

    • marriage of, 63, 66–67, 69

    • second inauguration and, 60, 61, 63

    • siblings of, 66, 70, 71

    • slavery and, 65

    • trauma from Abraham’s assassination, 77

  • Lincoln, Nancy, 63, 64, 65, 67

  • Lincoln, Robert, 66

  • Lincoln, Sally (Abraham’s sister), 63, 64, 65

  • Lincoln, Sarah “Sally” (Abraham’s stepmother), 63, 65

  • Lincoln, Tad, 71, 73

  • Lincoln, Thomas, 64, 65

  • Lincoln, Tommy, Jr., 64

  • Lincoln, Willie, 71–72

  • Lindbergh, Anne Morrow, 204

  • Lindbergh, Charles, 204

  • Lindlahr, Victor, 332

  • lionfish, 372

  • Lippmann, Walter, 212

  • Litvinov, Maxim, 134

  • Lodge, Henry Cabot, xvii, 130

  • Lodge, Henry Cabot, II, 183, 210

  • Loewe, Frederick, 191

  • Longworth, Alice Roosevelt, 101, 102, 131, 132, 149

  • Lord, Bette Bao, 227

  • Lord, Winston, 227

  • Louisiana, 69

  • Louis-Philippe, 18

  • Louis XIV, 189

  • Louis XV, 200

  • Louis XVI, 40, 44

  • Louvat, Ferdinand, xxv, 196, 198

  • Lucas, Dione, 197

  • Lupino, Ida, xxiv

  • Lusitania, 125

M

  • Macfeely, Robert, 88

  • Maclay, William, 12

  • Macmillan, Harold, 196

  • Macron, Emmanuel, 342

  • Madison, Deborah, 281

  • Madison, Dolley, 52, 54–55, 57, 82, 84, 93

    • background of, 52

    • entertaining and, 28, 52, 53–55, 56, 57, 175

    • as Jefferson’s cohost, 37, 53

    • marriage to James, 52

    • slavery and, 53, 54, 57

    • War of 1812 and, 57

  • Madison, James “Jemmy,” 51–57

    • Congress and, 55, 57

    • Dinner Table Bargain and, xiii–xvii, 46, 140, 370

    • favoring of decentralized governance, xvi

    • food aid sent to Venezuela, 180

    • marriage of, 52

    • Montpelier plantation of, 52–53

    • as secretary of state, 37, 53

    • slavery and, 26, 53

    • War of 1812 and, 57

  • Maillard, 71

  • malnutrition, 224

  • Malraux, André, 204

  • Manassas, Battle of, 61

  • Mandela, Nelson, 292–93

  • Manifest Destiny, 75, 105

  • Mao Zedong, 226, 227, 228, 229, 230

  • March, Fredric, 203

  • Marie Antoinette, 44, 264

  • Marine Band, 38, 71, 72, 91, 194, 203, 266

  • Mariposa Grove, 108, 109, 110

  • Marshall, George C., 180, 203

  • Marshall, John, 6

  • Marshall Plan, 180, 203

  • Martha Washington’s Booke of Cookery and Booke of Sweetmeats (Washington), 15, 380

  • Martha Washington’s Preserved Cherries, 379–80

  • “martini, reverse” of FDR, xxviii, 154, 389

  • Maryland, 20

  • Mastering the Art of French Cooking (Child), xxiii, 197

  • Masterton, Donnie, 292

  • Mateos, Adolfo López, 210

  • Mathurin Roze de Chantoiseau’s Paris consommé shop, 40, 344

  • Matlock, Jack, 267

  • Matriarch, The (Page), 272

  • Mayer, Jean, 224

  • Mayflower, 132, 133

  • Mayo, Edith, 54

  • Mazowiecki, Tadeusz, 271

  • McCain, John, 316, 322, 330

  • McCall’s, 240

  • McClellan, George B., 88

  • McConnell, Mitch, 317

  • McCulla, Theresa, 362

  • McDonald’s, 283, 284, 321, 334, 336, 341

  • McGovern, George, 228

  • McInerney, Jay, 284

  • McKim, Charles, 106

  • McKim, Mead & White, 106

  • McKinley, William, 100, 103, 104, 106

  • McLellan, Diana, 232

  • meat processing plants, 111, 343, 371

  • Melah, Valentino, 85–86, 89, 91–92, 94

  • Melville, Herman, 113

  • Memorandum on Official Etiquette (Jefferson), 37

  • Menotti, Gian Carlo, 189

  • Mercer, Lucy, 149, 159

  • Merman, Ethel, 193

  • Merry, Anthony, 37, 53

  • Merry, Elizabeth, 37, 53

  • Mesnier, Roland

    • Carters and, 242, 249

    • Clintons and, 278, 279, 289–90, 294

    • extreme anxiety after 9/11, 301–2

    • George H. W. Bush and, 273–74

    • George W. Bush and, 300, 301, 306, 307

    • Reagans and, 253–54, 255, 256, 262–63, 265–66, 268

    • Scheib and, 289–90

  • Meyer, Danny, 319

  • Meyer, Mary Pinchot, 205, 206

  • Miami Daily News, 390

  • Michiko, 290

  • Milhous, Hannah, see Nixon, Hannah Milhous

  • Miller, William E., 215

  • Mintz, Sidney, 280

  • Miranda, Lin-Manuel, xvii

  • Mississippi, 69

  • Mitchell, Cornelia, 69

  • Mitchell, John, 232

  • Miyazawa, Kiichi, 273

  • Moaney, Dolores, 179

  • Moaney, John, 171, 179

  • Moeller, John

    • as acting executive chef, 310

    • Bush’s collapse-by-pretzel incident and, 305

    • on items stolen by White House guests, 365

    • opening of catering company, 312

    • preparation of dinner based on White House dinners, 359–60, 362, 366, 367

    • as Scheib’s sous chef, 301

  • Mohammed V, 185

  • Mona Lisa (Leonardo da Vinci), 204

  • Mondale, Walter, 243, 252, 265

  • Monkman, Betty, 361, 362, 365

  • Monroe, James, 360

  • Monroe, Maria Hester, 93

  • Monroe, Marilyn, 205, 388

  • Monsanto, 315, 327–28

  • Montgomery, Robert, 178

  • Monticello, 47–50, 326

    • café at, 49, 127, 282

    • cooks at, 39, 48

    • entertaining at, 49–50

    • Heritage Harvest Festival and, 48–49

    • Jefferson and, 32, 45, 46, 47–48, 49–50

    • kitchen at, 49, 50

    • overseer at, 32

    • slaves at, 39, 43, 47, 48, 50

    • vegetable garden at, 47–48

  • Moore, Charles, 256

  • Morgan, J. P., 103

  • Morison, Samuel Eliot, 273

  • Morley, John, 103–4

  • Morrison, Scott, 342–43

  • Morrison, Susan, 306

  • Moulton, Sara, 281

  • Mount Vernon, 9, 377

    • fishery at, 377

    • Kennedys’ state dinner for Khan at, 200–201

    • main house at, 10

    • Martha Washington’s family cookbook at, 15

    • meals at, 10–11, 12

    • slaves at, 10, 16, 17, 18, 377

    • visitors to, 12

  • Moyers, Bill, 216

  • Mozaffarian, Dariush, 340

  • Muir, John, 107, 108, 109, 110, 111, 120

  • mulled orange syrup, recipe for, 383

  • Muñoz Marín, Luis, 188, 190

  • Mussel Soup (Billi Bi), recipe for, 386–87

  • MyPlate, 327

  • Myrick, Jessica Gall, 340

N

  • Nagasaki, atomic bombing of, 161

  • Napoleon, 4, 170, 172, 203

  • Narragansett, 75

  • National Beef Packing, 344

  • National Enquirer, 310

  • National Intelligencer, 57

  • National Museum of American History, xxviii, 362

  • National Park Service, 110, 179, 341

  • National Prohibition Act, 131

  • National Security Council, 342

  • Nation’s Restaurant News, 287

  • Native Americans

    • enslavement and massacre of, 75, 76

    • myth of “first Thanksgiving” held by Pilgrims and, 74–75, 76

    • ruins in New Mexico, preservation of, 110

  • NATO, 167, 225, 342

  • Nature, 44

  • Navy Mess, xx, 288

  • Nelson, Willie, 243, 250

  • Nesbitt, Buck, 152

  • Nesbitt, Henrietta, 144–48, 159, 189

    • background of, 144–45

    • on Churchill, 154

    • duties of, 146

    • economy meals of, 146–47

    • Eleanor Roosevelt and, 144, 145–46, 148, 149, 150, 163

    • FDR and, 142, 144, 145, 147–48, 149, 150, 159

    • fear of terrapins, 142

    • Trumans and, 162–63

    • World War II and, 152, 153, 156–57, 158

  • Nesbitt, Henry, 144–45, 146

  • Nestle, Marion, 327

  • New Deal, 145, 209

  • New England Puritans, regional cuisine of, 2

  • New Mexico, 110

  • New Republic, The, 328

  • New York, xvi–xvii

  • New York Herald, The, 71, 114, 212

  • New York Herald Tribune, 212

  • New York Times, The, 393

    • on Casals, 190

    • on Chambrin, 286

    • on Clinton, 285

    • on FDR, 147

    • on George VI, 152

    • on Kennedys, 192, 196

    • on LBJ, 211, 212

    • on Lincoln, 61, 62

    • on Nixon, 230, 231

    • on Obama, 322

    • Scheib and, 309

    • on Taft, 114, 118

  • New York Times Cook Book, The, 386

  • New York Times Magazine, The, 316–17

  • Ney, Bob, 303

  • Nielsen, Kirstjen, 344–45

  • Nilsson, Sigrid, 124

  • Niven, David, 206

  • Nixon, Frank, 220

  • Nixon, Hannah Milhous, 220–21

  • Nixon, Julie, see Eisenhower, Julie Nixon

  • Nixon, Patricia “Pat,” 74, 221, 231, 232, 234

    • cook of, 219, 249

    • diet of, 219–20, 222–23

    • Mrs. Eisenhower and, 184

  • Nixon, Richard Milhous, 218, 219–34, 242, 249

    • alcohol and, 223, 229, 231

    • background of, 220–21

    • Checkers speech of, 221

    • congressional career of, 221

    • cooking and, 221

    • cook of, 219, 233, 249

    • diet of, xxii, 220, 222–23, 228

    • Eisenhower and, 183–84, 221

    • in election of 1960, 193, 210, 221, 222

    • in election of 1968, 217, 219

    • in election of 1972, 227, 231

    • food preferences of, 219, 220, 232–33, 333

    • food safety and, 221–22, 224–25, 239

    • hosting of events, 223, 225

    • nutrition efforts of, 224–25

    • resignation of, 233–34

    • Thanksgiving turkey and, 74

    • Trader Vic’s and, 231, 232

    • vice presidency of, 183–84, 221

    • visit to China, xxviii, 98, 226–30, 267

    • Watergate and, 231, 232, 233

  • Nixon, Tricia, 219, 223–24, 231

  • Nobel Prize winners

    • Begin, Carter, and Sadat, 248–49

    • Kennedy’s dinner for, 202–3, 332

    • Mandela, 292

  • No Reservations, 303, 319

  • Normandy, D-day invasion of, 156, 171

  • North Korea, 166

  • nuclear weapons

    • China and, 202

    • Eisenhower and, 179

    • Reagan and, 267

  • Nugent, Patrick, 217

  • Nugent, Ted, 330

O

  • Obama, Barack, 276, 313, 314–30, 352

    • arugula-gate and, 315–16, 323–24, 354

    • background of, xxi, 314, 315, 320, 330

    • Big Block of Cheese days, 364

    • bun cha dinner with Bourdain, 329–30

    • chefs of, 324

    • in election of 2008, 315–16, 317, 320, 321, 322

    • in election of 2012, 314

    • food and, 314, 315–17, 321, 322–23, 351

    • food initiatives of, 317, 327–29

    • food preferences of, xxviii, 107, 321, 322

    • hosting of events, 264

    • as an Illinois senator, 315, 316, 320

    • inaugural celebration of, 323

    • Kitchen Cabinet letter to, 319

    • marriage of, 320, 321

    • USDA administrator and, 318–19

  • Obama, Malia, 320, 321–22

  • Obama, Michelle, 276, 313, 371

    • background of, 320, 323

    • chefs of, 324

    • election of 2008 and, 320, 321

    • food and, 316, 320–21, 322, 323, 324–25

    • Healthy, Hunger-Free Kids Act and, 328

    • “Let’s Move!” campaign of, 328

    • marriage of, 320, 321

    • mixed feelings on role of First Lady, 56

    • parenting and, 320–21

    • vegetable garden of, White House, xxi–xxii, 127, 324–25, 326–27, 329, 340, 373

    • on the White House, xviii

  • Obama, Sasha, 320, 321–22

  • Obama Foodorama, 317

  • obesity

    • causes of, 116

    • childhood, 320, 328

    • corn and, 92–93, 371

  • Ocean Spray cooperative, 222

  • O’Connell, Patrick, 311

  • Odysseus, 28

  • Oglesby, Richard, 77

  • Ohira, Masayoshi, 249

  • Olivier, Laurence, 193

  • Omnivore’s Dilemma, The (Pollan), 93, 316

  • Onassis, Aristotle, 206

  • O’Neill, Alexandra, 349

  • Operation Eagle Claw, 250

  • Operation Vittles, 166

  • opossum, xxii, 38, 63, 118–19, 141, 362, 372, 386

  • Oppenheimer, J. Robert, 203

  • Orange Punch, Andrew Jackson’s Inaugural, recipe for, 383

  • orange syrup, mulled, recipe for, 383

  • organic food, perception of, 304

  • Ornish, Dean, 279, 294

  • Oswald, Lee Harvey, 209

  • Oval Office, xxi, 115, 250, 262

  • Oval Room, 57, 191

  • Oxford History of the American People, The (Morison), 273

P

  • Pack, Charles Lathrop, 127

  • Pakistan, 200, 201, 202, 288

  • Palin, Sarah, 316, 322

  • Parade, 272

  • Paris, 42

  • Past Forgetting (Summersby), 176–77

  • Pauling, Linus, 203

  • Pavillon, Le, 195, 196

  • Payne, Dolley, see Madison, Dolley

  • Peace Treaty Dinner, 248

  • Pearl Harbor, 92, 152, 153

  • Pearson, Lester B., 199

  • Peck, Gregory, 255

  • Peck, Mary Allen Hulbert, 129–30

  • Pedernales River Chili, Lady Bird’s, recipe for, 391–92

  • Pelican Island, Florida, 110

  • Pence, Mike, 334, 356

  • Pennsylvania Quakers, regional cuisine of, 2

  • Pentagon, 9/11 and, 301

  • People’s House, see White House

  • Pépin, Jacques, 196, 281

  • Perdue, Sonny, 352

  • Perot, Ross, 286

  • Pershing, John J., 134

  • Persons, Jerry, 183

  • Pew Hispanic Center, 344

  • Pew Research Center, 344

  • Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, 16, 17

  • Philip, Prince, xxv, 273

  • Pierce, Franklin, 73

  • Pilgrims, 74–76, 270

  • Pinchot, Gifford, 119, 120

  • Pinkerton, Allan, 69

  • plants, antimicrobial compounds in, 19

  • Plymouth Plantation, 74

  • Poitier, Sidney, 193

  • polenta, 239

  • Pollan, Michael, 93, 316, 317, 319, 325–26, 329, 371, 373

  • Porter, Katherine Anne, 203

  • possum, xxii, 38, 63, 118–19, 141, 362, 372, 386

  • Potsdam summit, 157, 161

  • Potts, Isaac, 7

  • poverty in America, 209, 212

  • Powers, Francis Gary, 185

  • Preserved Cherries, Martha Washington’s, recipe for, 379–80

  • president

    • bipolar disorder and, 120

    • role as First Host, xix

    • see also specific presidents

  • presidential food gifts, 37–38

  • President’s Dining Room, xxi

  • President’s House, see White House

  • Price, Leontyne, 248

  • primates, 19, 20, 27, 28

  • Princeton University, 129

  • Prohibition, 128, 131, 143

  • Prud’homme, Alex, xix–xx, xxiii, xxviii, 359–60, 362, 366

  • Pryor, Richard “Cactus,” 211

  • Psychology Today, 259

  • Puck, Wolfgang, 281

  • Punch, Andrew Jackson’s Inaugural Orange, recipe for, 383

  • Pure Food and Drug Act, 112

  • Putin, Vladimir, 292, 363

  • Pyle, Howard, 183

Q

  • Quan, Lee Ping, 132–33

  • Quartz, 337

  • Quigley, Joan, 260

R

  • Raffert, Hans, 268

  • railroad, 82, 83

  • Rancho del Cielo, 257–58

  • Randolph, Mary, 14

  • Randolph, Thomas J., 34

  • Rattley, Mary, 135

  • raw food diet, 19

  • Reagan, Maureen, 263

  • Reagan, Michael, 258, 259

  • Reagan, Nancy, 56, 178

    • background of, 254, 261

    • consulting of astrologer, 260

    • cooks of, 249, 253–54, 256, 257, 258, 259, 262, 265–66, 268

    • criticism of, 253, 259, 260, 262, 263–64

    • food preferences of, 262–63

    • Gorbachevs and, 266–67, 268

    • health of, 259

    • hosting of events, 254, 255, 256, 264–68

    • hunger for approval, 253, 254, 261–62

    • at inaugural celebration, 252, 253

    • perfectionism of, 253, 254, 262–63, 265

    • at Rancho del Cielo, 257–58

    • social ambitions of, 253, 254

    • television and, 262

    • Thanksgiving turkey and, 74

  • Reagan, Ronald, 178, 225, 251, 252–68, 346

    • alcohol and, 258–59

    • attempted assassination of, 257, 259

    • background of, 255, 259, 260

    • Berlin Wall and, 267

    • Cold War and, 98

    • cooks of, 249, 253–54, 256, 257, 258, 259, 262, 265–66, 268

    • Economic Recovery Program of, 257

    • in election of 1980, 250

    • in election of 1984, 265

    • food preferences of, 260, 262, 333

    • Gorbachev and, 266–67, 268

    • health of, 257, 259, 265

    • hosting of events, 252, 253, 255–56, 264–68, 356

    • inaugural celebration of, 252, 253

    • Iran hostage crisis and, 252

    • jelly beans and, xxvii, 260–61, 271, 335, 350

    • Kitchen Cabinet of, 253, 255

    • on LBJ’s Great Society, 212–13

    • proposal to cut school lunch program, xxvii, 263, 264

    • at Rancho del Cielo, 257–58

    • Strategic Defense Initiative of, 267

    • television and, 262

    • Thanksgiving turkey and, 74

  • Reasoner, Harry, 231

  • Rebozo, Bebe, 231

  • Récamier, Madame de, 188–89

  • recipes, 377–94

    • Abraham Lincoln’s Gingerbread Men, 384–85

    • Andrew Jackson’s Inaugural Orange Punch, 383

    • Eisenhower Steak, 390–91

    • FDR: The Reverse Martini, 389

    • George Washington’s Striped Bass (Rockfish) Grilled on a Cedar Plank, 377–79

    • Jimmy Carter’s Grits, 393–94

    • Lady Bird’s Pedernales River Chili, 391–92

    • Martha Washington’s Preserved Cherries, 379–80

    • Thomas Jefferson’s Salad with Tarragon Vinegar Dressing, 381–82

    • William Howard Taft: Billi Bi (Mussel Soup), 386–87

    • Woodrow Wilson’s “Healthy Breakfast,” 388

  • Reciprocity Treaty, 92

  • Reclamation Act, 109

  • Reconstruction, 82–83, 104

  • Reconstruction Finance Corporation, 137

  • Red Hen, 345

  • Regan, Don, 260

  • Reichl, Ruth, 317, 319–20, 324

  • Rennix, Nia, 339

  • Republican Party, 68, 119, 129–30

    • GIPSA funding and, 327

    • Grant and, 80, 83, 87

    • Lincoln and, 67

    • organic food and, 304

    • T. Roosevelt and, 112, 113

  • Residence Act, xvii

  • restaurant, first true, 40, 344

  • “reverse martini” of FDR, xxviii, 154, 389

  • Revolution at the Table (Levenstein), 33

  • Rhodes, Ben, 329–30

  • Richmond (Hercules’s son), 17

  • Ripken, Cal, Jr., 299

  • Ripple Effect, The (Prud’homme), xx

  • Robb, Chuck, 217

  • Roberts, John, 322

  • Roberts, Jonathan, 55

  • Roberts, Roxanne, 361, 363, 366, 367

  • Robinson, Corinne, 100

  • Robinson, Fraser, III, 323

  • Robinson, Jim, 323

  • Robinson, Marian, 323

  • Rodgers, Judy, 281

  • Rodham, Hillary, see Clinton, Hillary Rodham

  • Rolling Stone, 243

  • Romero, Anibal, 344

  • Romney, Mitt, 314, 320

  • Roosevelt, Alice (Theodore’s wife), 101

  • Roosevelt, Alice Lee (Theodore’s daughter), see Longworth, Alice Roosevelt

  • Roosevelt, Anna, 143, 149

  • Roosevelt, Archibald, 102

  • Roosevelt, Curtis, 389

  • Roosevelt, Edith (Edie), 101, 102, 103, 106, 107, 115

  • Roosevelt, Eleanor, 175

    • alcohol and, 155

    • baking and, 141

    • Churchill and, 154, 155, 156

    • food and, 103, 142, 143–44, 156–57

    • Henrietta Nesbitt and, 144, 145–46, 148, 149, 150, 163

    • hosting of events, 147, 151

    • marriage of, 144, 148, 149–50, 162, 176

    • social activism of, 56

    • Truman and, 161

    • Victory Garden of, 324, 325

    • World War II and, 153, 156–57, 158

  • Roosevelt, Elliott (Eleanor’s father), 149

  • Roosevelt, Elliott (FDR’s son), 143, 155

  • Roosevelt, Ethel, 102

  • Roosevelt, Franklin (FDR’s son), 143

  • Roosevelt, Franklin D. (FDR), xix, xxii, 25, 98, 139, 140–59, 163, 188, 360

    • affair with Lucy Mercer, 149, 159

    • alcohol and, 143, 154, 155, 389

    • background of, 148

    • Camp David and, 245

    • Churchill and, 153–55, 156, 157, 158, 171

    • cooks of, 141–42, 146, 149, 181

    • death of, 159, 161

    • Eisenhower and, 171

    • in election of 1932, 137–38, 145

    • in election of 1940, 140

    • expansion of West Wing, 115

    • food and, 103, 140–43, 147–48, 149, 150, 156, 159

    • health of, 148, 150

    • Henrietta Nesbitt and, 142, 144, 145, 147–48, 149, 150, 189

    • hosting of events, 140, 146, 147, 148, 150–52, 154, 179

    • Hot Dog Summit of, 150–52, 171–72

    • inaugurations of, 145, 158

    • marriage of, 144, 148, 149–50, 162, 176

    • meals of, 140–41, 146, 147–48, 154, 156

    • New Deal and, 145, 209

    • Presidential Salmon sent to, 136

    • “reverse martini” of, xxviii, 154, 389

    • as shying from confrontations with staff, 148

    • Stalin and, 157

    • terrapin soup and, 140–42, 159

    • Thanksgiving Day and, 74

    • on Victory Gardens, 325

    • Wilkie dinner of, 140–42

    • World War II and, 140, 152, 153–55, 156, 157, 158, 171

  • Roosevelt, Franklin D., Jr., 143

  • Roosevelt, James (Jimmy), 142, 143, 148, 149, 150, 151

  • Roosevelt, John, 143

  • Roosevelt, Kermit, 102, 107, 120

  • Roosevelt, Quentin, 102

  • Roosevelt, Sara, 149–50, 151, 152

  • Roosevelt, Theodore, xix, xxii, 98, 99, 100–113, 114, 144, 149, 188, 286

    • African safari and, 120

    • alcohol and, 103

    • Antiquities Act and, 110

    • background of, 100–101, 120

    • baseball and, 299

    • Beef Trust curbed by, 327

    • as big business ally, 111–12

    • bipolar disorder and, 120

    • Booker T. Washington and, 104–5

    • chef for, 106

    • conservation and, 101, 107–11, 120

    • death of, 120, 121

    • in election of 1904, 108, 109

    • in election of 1912, 119

    • food preferences of, 102–3, 107, 108–9

    • food safety and, 101, 111–12

    • health of, 101

    • hosting of events, 106, 189, 216

    • John Muir and, 107, 108–10, 111

    • marriages of, 101–2, 120

    • mint garden of, 132

    • Reclamation Act of, 109

    • statue of, removal of (in 2022), 105

    • Taft and, 113, 114, 115, 119–20

    • Thanksgiving meal of, 106

    • vice presidency of, 100

    • on Wilson, 130

  • Roosevelt, Theodore (Ted), III, 102, 103

  • Roosevelt, Theodore “Thee,” Sr., 100

  • Rorabaugh, W. J., 92

  • Rosengarten, David, 281

  • Rosenzweig, Anne, 278

  • Rosner, Helen, 338

  • Rothko, Mark, 204

  • Rothman, Hal K., 210

  • Russia

    • China and, 227

    • famine of 1921 in, 134

  • Rysavy, François

    • Eisenhowers and, 180–81, 182, 184–85

    • FDR and, 154

S

  • Sadat, Anwar, 244–46, 247–49, 362

  • Salad with Tarragon Vinegar Dressing, Thomas Jefferson’s, recipe for, 381–82

  • salmon, 136–37

  • salt, as addictive, 339

  • SALT II, 249

  • Samuelsson, Marcus, 281

  • Sanchez, Manolo, 225

  • Sanders, Sarah Huckabee, 345–46

  • San Francisco Call, The, 110

  • Sartoris, Algernon Charles Frederick, 93, 94

  • Satō, Eisaku, xxiv

  • Saturday Night Live, 284, 303

  • Schafer, Edward, 318–19

  • Scheib, Jean, 286, 287

  • Scheib, Walter, 311, 359

    • background of, 287

    • Berman and, 308–9, 346

    • death of, 309–10

    • as executive chef for Bushes (George W.), 297–98, 299–300, 301, 302, 303–5, 306, 308–9

    • as executive chef for Clintons, 286–87, 288–91, 292–93, 303–4, 310

    • Iron Chef, 309

    • Mesnier and, 289–90

    • September 11, 2001, terrorist attacks and, 301, 302

    • vegetable garden of, 326

  • Schiller, Keith, 341

  • Schlesinger, Arthur M., Jr., 204–5, 206

  • Schmidt, Helmut, 249

  • Schmit, Nick, 354

  • school lunches, xxvii, 210, 225, 263, 264, 318, 328

  • Seale, William, xviii

  • Seaton, Sarah, 54

  • Secret Service, 164

    • Carters and, 242

    • FDR and, 152–53, 389

    • George H. W. Bush and, 271

    • George W. Bush and, 299, 305

    • Obama and, 329

    • Reagan and, 257

    • Yeltsin and, 291

  • Selig, Bud, 299

  • Selvik, Todd, 344

  • Senecal, Anthony, 337

  • September 11, 2001, terrorist attacks

    • patriotic fervor after, 302–3

    • presidential food gifts after, 38, 302

  • sex and food, 44

  • shad, 377–78

  • Shakespeare, William, 77

  • Shanks, Dan, 300, 301

  • Sharpe, Mary, 163

  • Sheraton, Mimi, 286

  • Sherman, William Tecumseh, 81, 158

  • Short, Bobby, 249

  • Shriver, Eunice, 206

  • Shriver, Sargent, 206

  • Silverman, David, 75

  • Simmons, Amelia, 14

  • Simon, André, 280

  • Sinatra, Frank, 193, 255

  • Sinclair, Upton, 111

  • Singh, Manmohan, 312

  • Sioussat, Jean-Pierre (“French John”), 54

  • Skelton, Martha Wayles, see Jefferson, Martha Wayles Skelton (Thomas’s wife)

  • slavery and slaves, 2, 4

    • Buchanan and, 70

    • Democratic Party and, 70

    • Dred Scott decision on, 68

    • Emancipation Proclamation on, 72

    • France and, 42

    • Jefferson and, 26, 31, 42, 43–44, 47, 48, 49, 50, 75

    • Lincoln and, 60, 68, 69, 70, 73

    • Madisons and, 26, 53, 54, 57

    • at Mount Vernon, 10, 16, 17, 18, 377

    • Native Americans and, 75, 76

    • sugar industry and, 90

    • Thirteenth Amendment on, 42, 72

    • Washingtons and, 8, 10, 15, 16–19, 21, 377

    • White House and, xxii, 20, 26, 43, 323

  • Smith, Alfred E., 133

  • Smith, Art, 324

  • Smith, E., 14

  • Smith, Margaret Bayard, xv, 37, 55, 383

  • Smithfield Foods, 344

  • Smithsonian Institution, 120

  • Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History, xxviii, 362

  • SNAP food stamp program, 327, 352

  • Snedden, John, 278

  • social development, human

    • cooking with fire and, 19–20

    • eating together and, 27

  • Soetoro, Lolo, 314, 316

  • Solares, Nick, 338

  • Soup, Mussel (Billi Bi), recipe for, 386–87

  • South Carolina, 69

  • South Korea, 166

  • South Lawn

    • Carter and, 243, 248

    • Clintons and, 289

    • FDR and, 151

    • Julia Grant and, 84

    • Michelle Obama and, xxi–xxii, 127, 324–25, 326–27, 329, 340

    • Reagans and, 255

  • Soviet Union

    • Afghanistan and, 250

    • Berlin blockade and, 166

    • Cuba and, 204

    • expansionism, 165, 179

    • France and, 212

    • Reagan and, 267, 268

    • World War II and, 155–56, 158

  • Spam, 311

  • Spencer, Diana, see Diana, Princess

  • Spessot, Julius, 197–98

  • Spessot, Luisa, 197, 198

  • Spinks, Leon, 247

  • Springsteen, Bruce, 349

  • Stalin, Joseph, 153, 155–56, 157, 158, 161, 389

  • Stallone, Sylvester, 388

  • Stanford, Leland, 82

  • Starr, Kenneth, 293

  • State Department, 201, 227, 342, 366

  • State Dining Room, 124, 373

    • Eisenhowers and, 173, 177, 195

    • FDR and, 152

    • fireplace inscription in, 25

    • Fords and, 235

    • George W. Bush and, 299

    • Grants and, xxi, 86, 91, 94

    • Hoover and, 135

    • Jefferson and, 37

    • Kennedys and, 189, 195

    • Reagans and, 256, 263

    • seating in, 105

    • Trump and, 336, 364

  • state dinners, 362–63, 366–67, 372

    • Carters and, 242, 249

    • Clintons and, 290, 291, 292

    • Eisenhower and, 185, 267

    • functions of, xxiv

    • funding of, 242, 243

    • George W. Bush and, 300, 312

    • Grants and, 89–90, 91–92

    • Kennedys and, 200–201

    • LBJ and, xxiv–xxv

    • Nixon and, 225

    • Reagans and, 255, 256, 267

    • Trumans and, xxiv, 166

    • Trump and, 341–43, 364

  • Statler Brothers, 249

  • Stephens, Thomas, 183

  • Steuben, General, 7

  • Stevenson, Adlai E., 167, 185, 215

  • Stewart, Jimmy, 255

  • Stewart, Martha, 334

  • Stewart, Philip B., 104

  • Stock, Ann, 365

    • as Clinton social secretary, 278, 361

    • on people’s reactions when entering the White House, 361–62

    • on state dinners, 363, 367

  • Stokowski, Leopold, 189

  • stove, iron, transition from cooking over fire in a hearth to, 67

  • Strategic Defense Initiative, 267

  • Striped Bass (Rockfish) Grilled on a Cedar Plank, George Washington’s, recipe for, 377–79

  • Stuart, Gilbert, 26, 57

  • Stuart, John Todd, 65

  • Stuart, Robert, 224

  • Styron, William, 203

  • Suckley, Daisy, 159

  • sugar

    • as addictive, 339

    • production of, 90–91

    • during World War I, 128

  • Sumerians, 36

  • Summerfield, Arthur E., 183

  • Summersby, Kay, 176–77

  • Supreme Court, U.S., 68, 345

  • Swett, Leonard, 63

  • Syria, 342

  • syrup, mulled orange, recipe for, 383

T

  • table manners, role of, 13

  • Taft, Helen (Nellie) Herron, 113, 114–15, 116, 117–18

  • Taft, William Howard, xxi, 98, 113–20, 181

    • baseball and, 299

    • Billi Bi (Mussel Soup) and, 386–87

    • cooks of, 117

    • death of, 120

    • diet of, 116–17

    • in election of 1908, 113–14

    • in election of 1912, 119

    • favorite foods of, 115–16, 118, 386

    • health of, 116

    • inauguration of, 114, 120

    • physical description of, 115, 116

    • possum and, xxii, 362, 386

    • salary of, 118

    • T. Roosevelt and, 113, 114, 115, 119–20

  • Taiwan, 227

  • Tanzania, 293

  • Tarragon Vinegar Dressing, Thomas Jefferson’s Salad with, recipe for, 381–82

  • taxation, federal, xvi, xvii, 83

  • Taylor, Elizabeth, 255

  • Taylor, Margaret, 56

  • Taylor, W. D., 212

  • Taylor, Zachary, xxvii

    • background of, 239

    • death of, xxii, 272–73

    • Hale’s letter to, 72

  • tea, British taxation of, 9

  • Tea Party revolt of 2010, 328

  • Tea Pot Dome scandal, 131

  • Tehran summit, 157

  • telegraph, 83

  • temperance movement, 128

  • terrapin soup, 140–42, 159, 372

  • Tet Offensive, 217

  • Texas, 69, 73, 118

  • Thanksgiving Day, 72–76

  • Thatcher, Denis, 255

  • Thatcher, Margaret, 255–56

  • Thirteenth Amendment, 42, 72

  • Thomas Jefferson Foundation, 44, 50

  • Thomas Jefferson’s Cook Book (Trist), 35

  • Thornton, Lady, 81

  • Thurber, James, 319

  • Tibet, 202

  • Tillman, Ben “Pitchfork,” 104

  • Time

    • interview with Obama, 316

    • on Jelly Bellys, 261

    • Julia Child on the cover of, xxiii, 197

    • on Verdon’s resignation, 216

  • toasting the health of tablemates, 11, 12

  • Todd, Mary, see Lincoln, Mary Todd

  • Tongass Forest, 110

  • Topolobampo, 316

  • Torre, Joe, 299

  • Tower, Jeremiah, 281

  • Trader Vic’s, 231–32

  • transcontinental railroad, 82

  • Travolta, John, 266

  • Treating People Well (Berman and Bernard), 346

  • Treaty of Paris, 9

  • Treaty of Versailles, 130

  • Trist, Virginia J., 35

  • Trudeau, Pierre, 225, 242

  • Truman, Bess, 56

    • discomfort as First Lady, 56, 162, 163, 167, 175

    • Henrietta Nesbitt and, 162–63

    • marriage of, 162, 163–64, 176

    • tableware ordered by, 264

    • White House renovation and, 166

  • Truman, Harry, 160, 161–68, 325, 350

    • baseball and, 299

    • calls for “poultryless Thursdays,” 74

    • Citizens Food Committee and, 165–66

    • diet of, 163

    • Eisenhower and, 167–68

    • on Eisenhower-Summersby romance, 176

    • in election of 1948, 165

    • Fair Deal of, 209

    • favorite comfort food of, 167

    • Henrietta Nesbitt and, 162–63

    • Korean War and, 166–67

    • marriage of, 162, 163–64, 176

    • Operation Vittles and, 166

    • at Potsdam Conference, 161

    • renovation of the White House, 164–65, 166, 176

    • on White House, xxii, 164

  • Truman, Margaret, 164, 165

    • on Mrs. Nesbitt, 162

    • on Trumans’ marriage, 163

  • Truman Doctrine, 165

  • Trumbull, Lyman, 67

  • Trump, Donald, Jr., 335

  • Trump, Donald J., 331, 332–47, 356

    • alcohol and, 332, 333, 334

    • background of, 298, 333, 334

    • ban of transgender military troops, 345

    • on Biden, 350

    • Bureau of Land Management and, 352

    • chef of, 341, 342

    • Christie and, 332, 334

    • claims of election fraud, 339

    • Comey and, 332–33

    • COVID-19 and, 340, 344, 368

    • fast food and, 332, 334–37, 339, 340, 341, 347, 350, 356, 364

    • favorite foods of, 333–34, 337–38

    • first impeachment of, 353, 364

    • health of, 335, 339, 340

    • hosting of events, 341–43, 346–47, 364, 365

    • January 6, 2021, riot and, 339, 349

    • ketchup and, 337, 338–39

    • nutrition and, 225

    • refusal to attend Biden’s inauguration, 349

    • Russia and, 332, 333, 342

    • Syria and, 342

    • Trader Vic’s and, 232

    • Trump Winery and, 342, 344

    • Ukraine and, 363–64

    • use of undocumented workers, 344

  • Trump, Fred, Sr. (Donald’s father), 333, 334

  • Trump, Freddy, Jr. (Donald’s brother), 333, 334

  • Trump, Mary (Donald’s niece), 333, 334

  • Trump, Mary Anne (Donald’s mother), 333, 334

  • Trump, Melania, 56, 340–41, 342–43, 368

  • Trump administration, 344–45, 352, 359

  • Trump Organization, 344

  • Trump Winery, 342, 344

  • Truth, Sojourner, 104

  • Tsai, Ming, 281

  • turkeys, president’s Thanksgiving Day “pardoning” of, 73–74

  • Tuttle, Holmes, 253

  • Twain, Mark, 95

  • Twenty-Fifth Amendment, 131

  • Twenty-First Amendment, 143

  • Twenty-Second Amendment, 159, 186

  • Twitter, 43, 337

  • Two Day Vegetable Soup, 172

  • Tyson, 327, 344

U

  • Udo, Pedro, 185–86

  • “ugly” vegetables, 372

  • Ukraine, 363–64

  • undocumented workers, 344

  • Union Agriculturist, 64

  • Union of Concerned Scientists, 352

  • United Nations, 154

  • University of Alabama, 206

  • U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), 263, 318–19, 327, 352–53

  • U.S. Department of Education, 249

  • U.S. Department of Energy, 249

  • U.S. News & World Report, 174–75

V

  • Valley Forge, Pennsylvania

    • Continental army in, 4–8, 360

    • Light Horses at, 13

  • Valley Forge Park, 7–8

  • Verdon, René

    • as executive chef for Kennedys, 189, 196, 197, 199, 201, 202, 203

    • recipe for clam chowder, 199

    • resignation under LBJ, 216, 341, 391

    • tomato garden of, 325

  • Vicksburg, Battle of, 72

  • Victoria, Queen, 86, 93, 178

  • Victory Gardens, 127, 324, 325

  • Vietnam

    • China and, 227

    • France and, 179, 200

    • Kennedy and, 206

    • World War II and, 158

  • Vietnam War, 207, 217

  • Vilsack, Tom, 319, 324, 327, 352–53

  • Virginia, xvi, xvii, 20

  • Virginia House-Wife, The (Randolph), 14

  • Virginia planters, regional cuisine of, 2

  • Volstead Act, 131

  • Vose, Horace, 73

W

  • Wall Street Journal, The, 383

  • Walters, Barbara, 226, 229

  • Walters, Gary, 287, 302, 309

  • Wampanoag tribe, 74–75

  • Ward, Chris, 310

  • Warhol, Andy, 141

  • Warner, Mark, 354

  • War of 1812, 57

  • Washington, Booker T., 104–5

  • Washington, D.C., 24

    • building of, xiv, xvi–xvii, 20

    • Grant on, 83

  • Washington, George, xiv, 3–21, 23, 75, 141

    • alcohol and, 92

    • cooks of, 8, 10, 15, 16–17, 18–19, 21, 33, 180, 379

    • death of, 20–21, 24

    • fables about cherry tree chopped down by, 379

    • favorite foods of, 10–11, 81, 141, 365

    • fisheries of, 377

    • on Fraunces Tavern, 9

    • hosting of congressional dinners, 14

    • inauguration as president, 12–13

    • Jefferson and, xvi, 46, 379

    • levees of, 14, 54

    • marriage of, 15

    • Mount Vernon and, 9, 10, 12, 377

    • move into Robert Morris house, 16

    • President’s House and, 20

    • promotion of a national holiday, 72

    • rounders and, 299

    • slavery and, 8, 10, 16–19, 21, 377

    • Striped Bass (Rockfish) Grilled on a Cedar Plank of, recipe for, 377–79

    • Stuart’s portrait of, 26, 57, 84

    • teeth of, 4, 11

    • toasting the health of his tablemates, 11, 12

    • in Valley Forge, 4–8, 21, 360

  • Washington, Martha, 56, 201

    • baked goods and, 16

    • crab soup of, 144

    • dentures of, 14

    • family recipe books of, 14, 15, 379, 380

    • marriages of, 15

    • move into Robert Morris house, 16

    • Preserved Cherries of, recipe for, 379–80

    • public receptions hosted by, 14

    • slavery and, 15, 17–19

    • in Valley Forge, 8

  • Washington Evening Star, The, 62, 91

  • Washington Post, The, 206, 361

    • on Biden, 356

    • on Bush (George W.), 305

    • on Nixon, 221

    • on Scheib, 309

    • on Trump, 336

    • on Trumpers, 345

    • on Verdon’s resignation, 216

  • Washington Times Herald, 192

  • Watergate, 231, 232, 233

  • Waters, Alice, 294, 304, 351

    • background of, 127, 282–83

    • on the Bushes (George W.), 310, 312

    • Clintons and, 281–82, 283, 304

    • on Monticello café, 49, 282

    • Obama and, 318, 319, 324, 326

  • Waters, Maxine, 345

  • Watson, James, 116

  • Waxman, Jonathan, 281

  • Wayles, John, 39, 44

  • Wayles, Martha, see Jefferson, Martha Wayles Skelton (Thomas’s wife)

  • Webster, Daniel, 55

  • Weems, Parson, 379

  • Welch, Laura, see Bush, Laura Welch

  • Wellington, Duke of, 203

  • Wendy’s, 335, 336

  • West, J. B.

    • on Bess Truman, 162

    • on Mamie Eisenhower, 175, 176

  • West Berlin, Soviet blockade and, 166

  • western frontiersmen, regional cuisine of, 2

  • West Wing, xx, xxi, 106, 115, 224, 325

  • WGBH, xxiv, 197

  • What’s Cooking at Columbia, 172

  • Whiskey Ring scandal of 1875, 94, 95

  • White, Gayle Jessup, 50

  • White, Marco Pierre, 308

  • White, Theodore H., 191, 192

  • White, William Allen, 129

  • White House, xviii–xix, 105, 361–63

    • Adamses and, 24–26, 27, 28–29, 369

    • Blue Room of, xxiv, 84, 140, 164, 189

    • cost of, 24

    • COVID-19 and, 343

    • description of, xx–xxii, xxi

    • design of, 20, 24–25, 106

    • Easter Egg Roll, 177

    • East Room of, see East Room

    • East Wing of, 106

    • Edith Roosevelt’s renovation of, 105–6

    • Executive Kitchen of, xxii, xxiii, 144, 146, 283, 293, 309, 373

    • Executive Residence of, 165

    • Grant’s renovation of, 83–84

    • Green Room of, 34, 61, 177, 189, 214, 292

    • housekeepers, 117

    • items stolen by guests at, 364–65

    • Jackie Kennedy’s updating of decor of, 194–95

    • Jefferson and, 31–33, 34–35, 38, 53

    • Julia Child’s documentaries about dinners at, xxiii–xxiv, xxv, xxvi, 236, 359

    • Kitchen Garden, xxi–xxii, 127, 324–25, 373

    • Madisons at, 53–54

    • Nancy Reagan’s redecorating of, 262

    • Navy Mess in, xx, 288

    • Obama and, xxi

    • Oval Office of, xxi, 115, 250, 262

    • Oval Room of, 57, 191

    • overzealous revelers at, 365

    • pool, 163

    • private parties at, 254–55

    • slaves and, xxii, 20, 26, 43, 323

    • South Lawn of, see South Lawn

    • State Dining Room of, see State Dining Room

    • Truman’s renovation of, 164–65, 166, 176

    • Trump on, 341

    • Washington portrait hanging in, 26

    • weddings at, 93–94

    • West Wing of, xx, xxi, 106, 115, 224, 325

    • World War II and, 152–53

  • White House Conference on Food, Nutrition, and Health, 224, 339

  • White House Correspondents’ Dinner, 347, 370

  • White House Family Cookbook, The (Haller), 393

  • White House Red Carpet, xxiv–xxv

  • Whitman, Ann C., 183

  • Whitman, Walt, 61, 94

  • Wiley, Harvey, 112

  • Wilkinson, Stephanie, 345

  • Will, George, 254, 261

  • Williams, Tennessee, 204

  • Willkie, Wendell, 140–42

  • Wilson, Edith Bolling Galt, 125, 127, 129, 131

  • Wilson, Ellen, 123, 125

  • Wilson, William, 253

  • Wilson, Woodrow, 98, 122, 123–31, 165, 239

    • alcohol and, 131

    • Armistice Day address of, 130

    • baseball and, 299

    • cook of, 124

    • in election of 1912, 119, 129–30

    • entertaining and, 129

    • extramarital affair and, 129–30, 149

    • food preferences of, 123–24, 220, 272

    • golf and, 128

    • health of, xxii, 123, 124–25, 128, 130–31, 388

    • “Healthy Breakfast” of, recipe for, 388

    • Hoover and, 125, 126, 134

    • inauguration of, 123

    • innovative food policies of, xxii

    • League of Nations and, 130

    • marriages of, 125, 129

    • racism of, 129

    • tableware ordered by, 263–64

    • Treaty of Versailles and, 130

    • U.S. Food Administration and, 125

    • on Victory Gardens, 325

    • World War I and, 123, 124, 125–26, 127, 128, 130, 134

  • Winfrey, Oprah, 324

  • Winston, Harry, 253

  • Wise, Henry, 73

  • Woman’s Christian Temperance Union, 194

  • Women Chefs and Restaurateurs, 310, 312

  • World Central Kitchen, 355

  • World War I, 123, 124, 125–28, 130, 150, 158

  • World War II

    • atomic bombing during, 161, 163

    • Battle of Britain and, 153

    • Eisenhower and, 171

    • end of, 161–62

    • FDR and, 140, 152, 153–55, 156

    • Pearl Harbor attack and, 152, 153

    • rationing during, 156

    • summits in Tehran, Yalta, and Potsdam, 157, 158

  • Wrangham, Richard, 19, 20

  • Wright, Marian, 224

  • Wright, Sammy, 213, 214

  • Wright, Zephyr, 213–14, 215, 216, 391–92

X

  • Xi Jinping, 342, 365, 397

Y

  • Yalta summit, 157, 158

  • Yaméogo, Maurice, 363

  • Yank magazine, 162

  • Yardley, Jonathan, 270

  • yellow fever epidemic of 1793, 52

  • Yellowstone National Park, 109, 110

  • Yeltsin, Boris, 291–92

  • Yorke-Davies, Nathaniel E., 116

  • Yosemite Grant, 109

  • Yosemite National Park, 109

  • Yosemite Valley, 107–8, 109, 110

  • Yosses, Bill, 307–8, 323, 324, 326

  • Young, Alexander, 76

  • Young, Daniel, 324

Z

  • Zeitz, Joshua, 212

  • Zelensky, Volodymyr, 363–64

  • Zhou Enlai, 226, 227, 229–30

  • Zuckerberg, Mark, 120

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