Chebeague Island Fishermen’s Wet Mittens

Time was, when a man went out in his boat in winter, he took his mittens off a nail on the boat, dipped them in the warm salt water cooling the engine, wrung them out good, and put them on wet. Then he began hauling and baiting his traps. His hands stayed warm in the wet wool mittens even working with wet traps dragged out of a frigid Casco Bay. When he peeled the mittens off later, his hands were so warm they steamed in the cold air. Then he hung the mittens up again by little loops in their cuffs and went ashore.

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Two pairs of fishermen’s mittens knitted by the late Minnie Doughty of Chebeague Island, Maine.

The warm wool mittens had an amazing insulating quality—but only when wet, fishermen say. They may have been knit by his wife, or he may have bought them—hand knit—from the same store that sold him his trap stock, boots, netting shuttles, and other gear. Wherever he got them, they were big when new, maybe a third bigger than his hand.

He took them on his boat and wetted them in the cooling water, then threw them on deck, sometimes in fish gore, and walked on them as he hauled traps. When he had a moment, he laid them out on the hot engine manifold to dry, turning them carefully now and then to keep them from scorching. He did this over and over all day. The wool became thicker, the stitches tighter than can be knit. By the end of the day, they were smaller and fit his hands and were marinated in the smell of the sea and fish and his boat.

As he wore them, wetting them in salt water each time, they shrank even more and became more matted, until they were molded to his hands and quite stiff when dry. Cod fishermen, handling oily fish, found the mittens never stopped shrinking and would finally have to be discarded or given to their children to wear.

Fishermen wore mittens like these in Maine and Nova Scotia for hundreds of years. Some still do, when they can get them. In Newfoundland, they are still used year-round. In many fishing communities, though, the art of knitting fishermen’s mittens was lost after the introduction of the insulated rubber glove. Even those women who want to knit them for their husbands can’t do so because there are no mittens left to measure, and no women left who know how to make them.

So it was also on Chebeague Island until a few years ago. Minnie Doughty, the one woman who had maintained the skill, had died, taking her knowledge with her. Like many other coastal women, Mrs. Doughty had a difficult life and lost several of her six sons to the sea. In her lifetime, she had knitted a great many pairs of fishermen’s mittens—so many that when she died, her daughters treasured the single remaining new pair as a keepsake.

One of the expert knitters of the Chebeague Island Methodist Church Ladies’ Aid, Elizabeth Bergh, took these mittens, counted stitches, measured, found a loose end to determine the thickness of the yarn, and put together instructions for fishermen’s mittens. These follow.

This pattern makes a huge mitten, which must be shrunk to be usable. Although the mitten is designed to be used wet, in salt water, by fishermen, it makes a wonderfully thick, dry mitten for landlubbers, if shrunk according to the fulling directions that follow the knitting instructions.

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Minnie Doughty’s grandson, lobsterman Richard Ross, wrings out his mittens before heading out. STEVE MUSKIE PHOTO

Chebeague Island Fishermen’s Wet Mittens

Yarn

Medium weight: Bartlettyarns 2-ply Fisherman or other untreated, medium weight wool yarn. (Peace Fleece 2-ply knitting yarn, with some kid mohair, makes a wonderfully soft and shaggy fisherman’s mitten.)

Yarn (oz) 3 6
(g) 85.5 99.25 171
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OR, Heavy weight: Barlettyarns 3-ply or other untreated, heavy fisherman wool with lanolin.

Fisherman Yarn (oz) 7
(g) 99.75 156.75 199.5

The mittens are traditionally cream-colored in North America. Do not use Superwash™ wools or synthetics—they will NOT shrink.

Equipment 1 set Size 6 (4mm, Can. Size 8) double-pointed needles, or size you need to knit at correct tension • 1 Size F (4mm, Can. Size 8) crochet hook • 12" (30cm) contrasting waste yarn • blunt-tipped yarn needle. For fulling: Two large dishpans • Washboard or felting board • Scrub brush or pet slicker • Murphy’s Oil Soap or other natural soap • Optional: 3 tablespoons (44ml) ammonia

Tension before shrinking In 2-ply yarn, sts and 7 rnds = 1" or 2.5cm • In 3-ply yarn, 4 sts and 6 rnds = 1" or 2.5cm

Tension after shrinking In 2-ply yarn, 10½ sts and 8¾ rnds = 2" or 5cm • In 3-ply yarn, 8½ sts and 9 rnds= 2" or 5cm

ABBREVIATIONS beg: beginning • CC: contrast color • dec(s): decrease(s) • inc(s): increase(s) • k: knit • k2tog: knit 2 together • MI: make I stitch • MIL: make I stitch left • MIR: make I stitch right • MC: main color • p: purl • rep: repeat • rnd(s): round(s) • SSK2tog: slip, slip, knit 2 sts together • st(s): stitch(es) • twisted MI: twisted make I cast-on

Measurements—inches and centimeters

MEDIUM WEIGHT YARN HEAVY WEIGHT YARN
Child Adult Child Adult
6–8 M XL 6–8 M XL
Hand length 7 7
14 17.75 21.5 14 17.75 21.5
Hand circumference, incl. tip of thumb 7 10 7 10
17.75 24 25.5 17.75 24 25.5
Mitten before shrinking Length of hand 8 10 12 8 10 12
20.25 25.5 30.5 20.25 25.5 30.5
Thumb length (⅓ hand) 2⅝ 3⅜ 4 2⅝ 3⅜ 4
6.5 8.5 10.25 6.5 8.5 10.25
Width 4 5 5⅜ 5⅜
10.25 12.75 13.5 9.5 12 13.75
Mitten after shrinking Length of hand 6 9 6 9
15.25 19 23 15.25 19 23
Thumb length 2 3 2 3
5 6.5 7.5 5 6.5 7.5
Width 5 5
9.5 12 12.75 9.5 12 12.75

To make other sizes, use a simple one-color mitten pattern and allow 25 percent shrinkage lengthwise, about 6 percent widthwise.

Pattern Notes

This mitten is knit huge, and must be shrunk before wearing. It can be worn damp—dip in water and wring out—or dry. I have put my hand in a dry Fishermen’s Mitten into our sheeps’ drinking water in winter and lifted off an inch of ice without getting wet. If I do get wet, I give my hands a couple of hard shakes, and the wetness disappears.

Making the cuff Using the Maine method (p. 13), cast on Distribute sts: Needle 1: Needle 2: Needle 3: Join into a triangle, being careful not to twist sts around the needles. Work k2, p1 ribbing until cuff measures (inches) (cm) Starting the hand and thumb gore Rnd 1: Place last p st on first needle. Slip this p st, k2, p1. These p sts mark the two sides of the thumb gore. K rest of rnd, increasing 2 sts on each needle by M1 (p. 26) between k sts of ribbing. Total: Rnd 2: P1, M1R, k2, M1L, p1, k to end of rnd without further incs. Rnds 3–5: Work even, maintaining the 2 p sts to mark outside of thumb gore. Rnd 6: P1, M1R, k up to p st, M1L, p1. Continue even to end of rnd. Total between p sts: 6 k sts. Rnds 7–9: Work even. Rep Rnds 6–9 until there are between p sts. Taking off the thumb gore stitches When thumb gore incs are complete, work even until thumb gore measures (inches) (cm) Place all thumb gore sts including the marking lines onto waste yarn. Total: MEDIUM WEIGHT YARN Child 6–8 30 sts 9 sts 12 sts 9 sts 3 7.5 36 sts 8 sts 2⅝ 6.75 10 sts Adult M 36 sts 12 sts 12 sts 12 sts 4 10.25 42 sts 10 sts 3⅜ 8.5 12 sts XL 42 sts 12 sts 15 sts 15 sts 4 10.25 48 sts 12 sts 4 10.25 14 sts HEAVY WEIGHT YARN Child 6–8 24 sts 6 sts 12 sts 6 sts 3 7.5 30 sts 6 sts 2⅝ 6.75 8 sts Adult M 30 sts 9 sts 12 sts 9 sts 4 10.25 36 sts 8 sts 3⅜ 8.5 10 sts XL 36 sts. 12 sts 12 sts 12 sts 4 10.25 42 sts 10 sts 4 10.25 12 sts
MEDIUM WEIGHT YARN HEAVY WEIGHT YARN Child Adult Child Adult 6–8 M XL 6–8 M XL Using twisted M1 (p. 23), cast on 7 sts 7 sts 10 sts 5 sts 4 sts 7 sts over the gap. Total: 39 sts 45 sts 54 sts 31 sts 36 sts 45 sts K1 rnd even. Distribute sts: Needles 1 and 2: each 13 sts 15 sts 18 sts 10 sts 12 sts 15 sts Needle 3: 13 sts 15 sts 18 sts 11 sts 12 sts 15 sts K even until work above cuff measures (inches) 6¼ 7½ 9 6¼ 8 10 (cm) 16 19 23 16 20.25 25.5 Closing the mitten tip NOTE: Decs do not come out even in all sizes. If one or two sts are left over at the end of the rnd, work them even. In medium weight yarn, largest size only: Rnd 1: *SSK2tog, k7 sts; rep from * to end of rnd. Total per needle, 16 sts. Rnds 2 and 3: Work even. In med wt yarn, two largest sizes: Rnd 4: *SSK2tog, k 6 sts; rep from * to end of rnd. Rnds 5 and 6: Work even. Total per needle: 13 sts 13 sts 14 sts 10 sts 12 sts 15 sts In all sizes but heavy weight yarn Child’s 6–8, Rnd 7: *SSK2tog, k5 sts; rep from * to end of rnd. Total per needle: 11 sts 11 sts 12 sts 12 sts 13 sts — Rnds 8 and 9: Work even. Rnd 10: *SSK2 tog, k4 sts; rep from * to end of rnd. Total per needle: 9 sts 9 sts 10 sts — 10 sts 11 sts Rnds 11 and 12: Work even. All sizes Rnd 13: *SSK2tog, k3 sts; rep from * to end of rnd. Total: 21 sts 21 sts 24 sts 24 sts 24 sts 27 sts
MEDIUM WEIGHT YARN HEAVY WEIGHT YARN Child Adult Child Adult Rnds 14 and 15: Work even. 6–8 M XL 6–8 M XL Rnd 16: *SSK2tog, k2 sts; rep from * to end of rnd. Rnds 17 and 18: Work even. Total: 16 sts 16 sts 18 sts 18 sts 18 sts 20 sts Rnds 19 and 20: Work even. Rnd 21: *SSK2tog, k1 st; rep from * to end of rnd. Total: 11 sts 11 sts 12 sts 12 sts 12 sts 14 sts Check measurements against finished measurements at beg of directions. If you are satisfied, break yarn leaving a 6” (15cm) tail. With yarn needle, thread one end through the remaining sts and draw up firmly. Thread first end through drawn-up sts again, darn a few sts to secure it and draw it to inside of mitten. Working the thumb Needle 1: Pick up 7 sts 7 sts 10 sts 5 sts 4 sts 7 sts from cast-on sts above the thumb hole. Needle 2: Pick up from thumb gore 5 sts 6 sts 7 sts 4 sts 5 sts 6 sts Needle 3: Pick up from thumb gore 5 sts 6 sts 7 sts 4 sts 5 sts 6 sts Pick up and twist onto needle from each corner of thumb hole 1 st 1 st 1 st 1 st 2 sts 2 sts Total: 19 sts 21 sts 26 sts 15 sts 18 sts 23 sts Join yarn by sewing (p. 20) into back of fabric starting at the right side of the thumb hole. Rnd 1: Work even. Rnd 2: Needle 1: Work even. Needle 2: K2tog, k to end of needle. Needle 3: K to last 2 sts of needle, SSK2 tog. Total (about 40% of total hand sts): 17 sts 19 sts 24 sts 13 sts 16 sts 21 sts. Work even until thumb measures (inches) 2 2⅜ 3 2 2¼ 2⅞ (cm) 5 6 7.5 5 5.75 7.25
Closing the thumb Rnd 1: *K2tog, k2; rep from * to end of rnd. 16 sts Rnds 2 and 3: Work even. Rnd 4: *K2tog, k1; rep from * to end of rnd. Total: Break yarn leaving a 6” (15cm) tail. With yarn needle, thread one end through the remaining sts and draw up firmly. Thread end through drawn-up sts again, darn a few sts to secure it, and draw to inside of thumb. Finishing the mitten Crochet a loop on edge of cuff with the tail from casting on to hang the mitten up to dry. Minnie Doughty also buttonhole-stitched the loop for extra strength. Or, work a loop on one cuff and sew a button or a wooden toggle to the second mitten cuff. Turn mitten inside out and darn all ends into the back of the fabric. Repair possible holes at corners of the thumb hole with nearby tails. Trim ends closely. Make another identical mitten. This mitten can be worn on either hand. When both mittens are completed and finished, shrink them according to the fulling directions on pps. 34–35 until they shrink one quarter of their length. MEDIUM WEIGHT YARN Child 6–8 Total: 9 sts Adult M XL 13 sts 15 sts 10 sts 12 sts HEAVY WEIGHT YARN Child 6–8 18 sts 7 sts Adult M XL 10 sts 12 sts 8 sts 11 sts

Fulling Fishermen’s Mittens

Fulling means shrinking and brushing knitted or woven fabric, as contrasted to felting, which starts with loose wool fibers. The shock of cold to hot and hot to cold temperature changes, oil (either as codfish oil or soap), and agitation (on a washboard or in a washing machine or dryer) are what cause wool to shrink. You probably will not shrink your mittens by simply boiling them in a pot of water.

It’s good to do this project outdoors, where water can be splashed or poured onto the ground as you work. Otherwise, use a laundry tub or the kitchen sink.

This is how you proceed:

1. Prepare two large dishpans, one of very cold water (tap water can be cold enough, but add ice if you wish) and one of hot water (a mix of boiling and tap water, just cool enough to put your hands in). The hot water will be the wash and rub water; the cold water will be the rinse. Keep refreshing both baths as you work, keeping the hot very hot and the cold clear and cold.

2. Work both mittens of a pair at the same time, alternating throughout the process. Apply soap to the mitten, submerse it completely in hot water, then scrub and rub on the washboard, dipping it continually in the hot water.

3. When you are tired of scrubbing, plunge the mitten into cold water and squeeze the water through quickly, to shock the fibers. Get the whole mitten cold.

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You will need two large dishpans, supplies of ice cold water and almost boiling water, plenty of soap, and a washboard. CHARLES FREIBURG PHOTO

4. Repeat back and forth between hot and soapy water and cold rinse water. The fabric will relax in the hot water and pull together in the cold, until the mitten suddenly gives up, shrinks, and doesn’t relax.

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Shrinking mittens is a good group project. Women have been known to sing to the rhythm of scrubbing. Here, three Maine women—Diane Calder of Chebeague, Robin and Hanne Hansen of West Bath—work together at the Maine Festival to shrink mittens. CHARLES FREIBURG PHOTO

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Plenty of soap and agitation, together with sharp changes from hot to cold and back again, will cause the wool to shrink.
CHARLES FREIBURG PHOTO

5. When the mittens have shrunk to your satisfaction, rinse once more, optionally adding 3 tablespoons of ammonia to the rinse water. Ammonia is said to whiten and soften the wool. Usually a lot of gunk will come out of the wool if you add ammonia to the rinse water. (This is the lanolin. Whether you want it in your mitten is up to you, but it does help make the mitten water- and wind-resistant.)

6. If you used ammonia in Step 5, rinse the mittens once more in clear water.

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When the mitten has shrunk adequately, brushing it with a scrub brush or a fine wire brush brings up a fine nap. CHARLES FREIBURG PHOTO

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One mitten of an identical pair has been shrunk to demonstrate the difference. CHARLES FREIBURG PHOTO

7. Brush thoroughly toward the tip on both sides (and, optionally, widthwise on the inside) using a scrub brush or fine wire brush, or a pet slicker. Put the mittens in the washer on the spin cycle (only!), then brush again and spread them in a warm spot to dry.

You can also dry the mittens in the dryer with other clothes, but be aware that this might shrink and stiffen them more than you wish. You no longer control the process when you offer your lovely hand­work to an uncomprehending machine. But I do it sometimes anyhow.

The shrinking/fulling process may take up to 45 minutes of your hard labor, but will probably take less. Should you despair halfway through, you can always quit and throw the mittens in with a load of laundry. With a little brushing afterward, they should look hand-fulled. If you start with the washing machine, however, you may end up with a less nappy, less long-haired mitten. On the other hand, you will have less actual hard work. There are many such trade-offs in life.

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A well-shrunk, well-used fishermen’s mitten from Chebeague Island.

In Bartlettyarns 2-ply Fisherman yarn or Peace Fleece 2-ply knitting yarn, the mitten will lose about 25 percent (one quarter) of its length and less than 5 percent widthwise. In Bartlettyarns 3-ply Fisherman yarn, the mitten should lose 16 to 20 percent of its length and 10 percent of its width.