Incredible Checkerboard Mittens

For those who tire of Salt and Pepper knitting, a one-one alternation of two colors that makes a smooth, thick mitten fabric, there’s Checkerboard, also called Block or Two-Two, but having nothing to do with trains.

Checkerboard is an alternation of colors in a two-two sequence—two rounds of 2 MC, 2 CC followed by two rnds of the opposite. It shouldn’t be very different from Salt and Pepper, but it is. For a reason known only to yarn engineers, this particular alternation pulls the fabric up into ridges like cornrows, thickening the mitten fabric greatly. It looks like a fancy stitch, but it isn’t. It’s plain old stockinette.

Checkerboard can be knit with 3 sts and 3 rnds per check, or even with 3 sts and rnds, but the most common pattern has 2 of each.

Checkerboard is knit in central (Farmington) and northern (Aroostook County) Maine, as well as New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. I’ve never seen a Checkerboard Mitten from southern Maine, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t any. The entire mitten pattern must have come from Scandinavia—I discovered one identical to it in a collection of Norwegian mittens in Annie Blatt, a German women’s magazine—same rounded tips, same pull-up effect, even the same unusual increase all at the bottom of the thumb gore

Two versions are presented in this book, one taken intact from a mitten in New Sweden, Maine, and a very light version in sport weight yarn for babies and young children (p. 189).

The heavy weight mittens are super—super thick, super warm, super solid, super flexible. They were originally knitted for woodsmen, who wore them as liners under leather mittens.

The woman who gave me the pattern, Beda Spooner, of New Sweden, told me she is Swedish. Both her mother and father were Swedish, she said. Mrs. Spooner is the only woman I interviewed who still sends fleeces to Bartlett Mills to exchange for yarn. Her son keeps and shears the sheep and takes the fleeces to Harmony, Maine, where he gets her gray and white natural yarn.

She washes the heavy 3-ply yarn in hot water in the skein, and then winds it for her winter knitting. Mrs. Spooner has a local reputation for her mittens and was afraid that publishing her instructions might damage her business. I hope it didn’t.

I tried knitting these mittens without shrinking the yarn ahead and found that they turned out wishy-washy—flaccid and easy to stretch out of shape. The next time, I simmered the yarn, in the skein, for 20 to 30 minutes with water and a little Orvus animal shampoo (from the feed store, but any fine soap would work), and then rinsed it thoroughly in cold water. The yarn became thicker, ropier, softer, and quite interesting to work with—but harder to knit at 6 sts per inch. The mittens neither stretched nor shrank afterward. I wore them to Reid State Park one sunny spring day, dropped them, and never found them again.

In spite of the simple and curious manner of putting on the thumb gore (all at once at the bottom), this is not an easy mitten to knit because of the thickness of the yarn and the tightness of the knit. Nonetheless, it’s well worth the effort to knit a pair, though only in Bartlettyarns 3-ply Homespun Yarn, prewashed in boiling water! They are warm, soft, flexible, and—unless you lose them—will last for years.

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Checkerboard Mitten by Beda Spooner of New Sweden, Maine. Note the sudden increase at the thumb just above the cuff.

Incredible Checkerboard Mittens

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Yarn MC: 3 oz (85g) dark color 3-ply Homespun from Bartlettyarns • CC: 3 oz (85g) light color 3-ply Homespun from Bartlettyarns.

This yarn is about twice as heavy as ordinary medium weight yarn. Remember that, for best results, this yarn should be boiled as described in the introduction. After the yarn has cooled, put it in the washing machine on the spin cycle (only!), then hang or lay to dry thoroughly before you start to knit. Do not use synthetics or Superwash™-treated wool yarns as they will not respond to boiling.

Equipment 1 set Size 8 (5mm, Can. Size 6) double-pointed needles, or size you need to knit in pattern at correct tension • 1 set Size 5 (3.75mm, Can. Size 9) double-pointed needles for ribbing • 12" (30cm) length of contrasting waste yarn • Blunt-tipped yarn needle

Tension 6 sts and 5½ rnds = 1" (2.5cm) in pattern

ABBREVIATIONS beg: beginning • CC: contrast color • dec(s): decrease(s) • inc(s): increase(s) • k: knit • k2tog: knit 2 together • MI: make I stitch • MIL: make I stitch left • MIR: make I stitch right • MC: main color • p: purl • rep: repeat • rnd(s): round(s) • SSK2tog: slip, slip, knit 2 sts together • st(s): stitch(es) • twisted MI: twisted make I cast-on

Measurements—inches and centimeters)

WM WL MM ML
Hand length 7 7½ 7 7½
18 19 18 19
Hand circumference, incl. tip of thumb 9 9 9½ 9½
23 23 24.25 24.25
Mitten hand length 7½ 8 7½ 8
19 20.25 19 20.25
Mitten thumb length (⅓ hand) 2½ 25/8 2½ 25/8
6.5 6.75 6.5 6.75
Mitten width* 4 4 4½ 4½
10.25 10.25 11.5 11.5

*Checkerboard Mittens are quite flexible, and although this measurement seems scant for the measurement around the hand, it is comfortable and adequate. The mitten tends to stretch somewhat widthwise over time, and it is easy to make it too wide.

Pattern

The pattern is a 4-st, 4-rnd rep. Its tendency to pull up sharply in wide ridges is a desirable feature of the pattern and should not be discouraged.

Checkerboard Chart 4 3 2 1 Checkerboard Thumb Gore 2 1 4 3 Key MC–main color CC–contrast color Inc rnds: K both colors into front loop of I stitch. Place marker
Making the cuff With MC, smaller needles, and using the Maine method (p. 13), cast on Divide sts equally between 3 needles, starting each needle with the beg of a k rib. Join into a triangle, being careful not to twist sts around the needles. Work k2, p1 ribbing in MC for 6 rnds. Join CC (p. 18) in last 8 sts. Continue ribbing CC for 3 rnds, MC for 4 rnds, CC for 3 rnds, MC for 4 rnds, and CC for 3 rnds. (Don’t break the yarn at the end of a stripe, but carry it up to its next appearance.) Change to larger needles and stockinette. K1 rnd CC, picking up the little loop between every pair of k sts, thus increasing Total: Distribute sts among 3 needles: Needle 1: Needle 2: Needle 3: Starting the pattern and thumb gore Start Checkerboard chart at lower right. Carry MC ahead throughout (p. 16). Start thumb gore immediately: Thumb gore incs will be above the first 2 ribs on Needle 2. In the first 2 pattern rnds, you will inc 12 sts just above 4 sts of these 2 ribs. This will be the only thumb gore inc. See Checkerboard Thumb Gore chart for a graphic representation of the incs. Rnd 1, Needle 1: *K2 MC, k2 CC; rep from * to end of needle. Needle 2: Lay in the waste yarn at beg of this needle to mark the beg of thumb gore. K1 MC; k both colors into St 2 (p. 21)—first MC then CC; k both colors into St 3—first CC then MC; k both colors into St 4—MC then CC; k both colors into St 5—CC then MC; k1 MC into St 6. This adds 4 new sts. Lay waste yarn after St 6 from the preceding rnd, to mark the end of thumb gore. Continue in pattern to end of the rnd. WM 36 sts 12 sts 48 sts 16 sts 16 sts 16 sts WL MM ML 36 sts 42 sts 42 sts 36 sts 14 sts 14 sts 48 sts 56 sts 56 sts 16 sts 16 sts 16 sts 16 sts 20 sts 20 sts 16 sts 20 sts 20 sts
WM WL MM ML Note: Check after the first rnd that the rep comes out even. A mistake here can throw everything off and take the fun out of the project. Rnd 2 of the pattern is identical to Rnd 1, but when you reach the marker, k1 MC, work the same pattern of incs across next 8 sts, then k1 MC. You will have 18 sts between markers. 12 of these sts are incs. Total: 60 sts 60 sts 68 sts 68 sts When thumb gore incs are complete, work even in pattern for a total of 14 rnds (7 two-rnd bands) above the cuff. Taking off the thumb gore stitches Place the 18 thumb gore sts between the marking lines onto waste yarn, starting with first st of a pair. Remove waste yarn markers. Using twisted M1 (p. 23), cast on 2 sts in pattern over the gap. Total: 44 sts 44 sts 52 sts 52 sts Inc 4 sts above thumb hole in the next rnd: Knit both colors, in order, into the st before thumb hole; knit both colors into both sts over thumb hole; knit both colors into st after thumb hole always maintaining the color sequence to match the rest of the rnd. Total: 48 sts 48 sts 56 sts 56 sts Distribute sts among 3 needles: Needle 1: 16 sts 16 sts 18 sts 18 sts Needle 2: 16 sts 16 sts 18 sts 18 sts Needle 3: 16 sts 16 sts 20 sts 20 sts Work even in pattern until work above cuff measures (inches) 6 6½ 6 6½ (cm) 15.25 16.5 15.25 16.5 This is 10 to 12 two-rnd bands of pattern. Closing the mitten tip On this fairly narrow mitten, the fit works best if the dec area is brief, producing a short, rounded tip. The decs are thus 6 decs to a rnd, every rnd, with a final 9- or 10-st dec. While Mrs. Spooner uses only k2tog
(p. 24) on her mittens, I have combined k2tog with SSK2tog (p. 24), which seems to preserve the pattern better. Dec Rnd: Needle 1: K2 tog in pattern, k to 2 sts from end of needle, SSK2tog in pattern. Needles 2 and 3: Same as Needle 1. Note: The pattern of the dec sts is the pattern on the needle you are working on. It’s easy to be tempted to continue the pattern on, for example, the last or first st on the needle. Rep Dec Rnd every rnd until there remain Last rnd: Alternate colors while you k2tog, k2tog, SSK2tog. (In the larger size, where there are 8 sts on one needle, k2tog 3 times, then SSK2tog, still alternating colors.) Check measurements against finished measurements at beg of directions. If you are satisfied, break yarn, leaving a 6” (15cm) tail. With a yarn needle, thread one end through the remaining sts and draw up firmly. Draw other end to inside of mitten. Thread first end through drawn-up sts once more, darn a few sts to secure end and draw end to inside of mitten. Working the thumb The thumb is the same width in all four sizes but a tad longer in the two Large sizes. Join both yarns by sewing (p. 20) into back of fabric starting at the right side of the thumb hole. Needles 1 and 2: Pick up 18 sts from waste yarn. Needle 3: Pick up and twist 2 sts onto needle in each corner of thumb hole. Pick up 2 sts at top of thumb hole. Total: 24 sts. Starting at right corner, work in pattern, matching pattern to that on thumb gore. WM 18 sts WL MM ML 18 sts 20 sts 20 sts
Work even until thumb next to palm measures Closing the tip of the thumb (inches) (cm) Dec as on hand: In pattern, k2tog, work to 2 sts from end of needle, SSK2tog. Do this on all needles, once, then k2tog, k2tog, SSK2tog on all needles. 9 sts remain. Break yarns, leaving 6” (15cm) tails. With a yarn needle, thread one end through the remaining sts and draw up firmly. Draw other end to inside of thumb. Thread first end through drawn-up sts again, darn a few sts to secure it, and draw to inside of thumb. Finishing the mitten Turn mitten inside out and darn all ends into the back of the fabric. Repair possible holes at corners of the thumb hole with nearby tails. Trim ends closely. Make another identical mitten. This mitten can be worn on either hand. WM 1⅞ 4.75 WL 2⅛ 5.25 MM 1⅞ 4.75 ML 2⅛ 5.25
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Left: Fleece-Stuffed Mittens (p. 54) and cap (p. 113).

Chebeague Island Fishermen’s Wet Mittens (p. 28), one pair knitted by Minnie Doughty and treasured as keepsakes by her daughters, the other pair, shrunk and well used, knitted by Chebeague Island Methodist Church Ladies’ Aid

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Sawtooth Mittens (p. 100) and Sawtooth-patterned watch cap (p. 113)

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Shag on the Inside Mitten (p. 62), Flying Geese Glove (p. 120)

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Fox and Geese Mittens and toque (pps. 77 and 149)

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Incredible Checkerboard Mittens (p. 107) in gray and white, Salt and Pepper Mittens (p. 94) in red and blac)

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Striped Mittens (p. 87). On bottom mitten, white was carried ahead halfway up the hand, then blue was carried ahead. On middle mitten, red was carried ahead. Mitten in background was knitted by Nora Johnson.

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Left to right: Mrs. Martin’s Finger Mitt (p. 164) with Waves pattern, Labrador Diamonds Mitten (p. 156), Mrs. Martin’s Finger Mitt (p. 164) with Diamond Stripes pattern, Big Waves Mitten (p. 174)

Maplewood Mittens (p. 126). This pattern shows up best in close colors rather than high-contrast color combinations.

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Outside: Two sizes of Chipman’s Check Wristers (p. 142). Two sizes of Salt and Pepper Mittens (p. 94).

Two versions of Mittens Hooked on a Dowel (p. 47): green mittens hooked in acrylic yarn by Albert Miller, blue and white mitten hooked by the author in wool yarn

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Left to right: Wee Checkerboard Mitten (p. 189), child’s Sawtooth Mitten (p. 100), Baby Foxes and Goslings Mitten (p. 184)

Left to right: Spruce Mittens (p. 134) and Spruce-patterned watch cap (p. 113), Baby Foxes and Goslings Mittens (p. 184), baby helmet (p. 207) with Fox and Geese patter)

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Double-Rolled Mittens (p. 36). Edna Mower made the larger pair with ribbed cuffs. Smaller mitten with shagged (and ribbed) cuff was copied from a mitten at the Maine State Museum made by Hattie Stover Brown.

Petites Mitaines en Fleur-de-lis (p. 200): Size 0–6 months with no thumb and a ribbed cuff, Size 0–6 months with no thumb and a wide patterned cuff and tie, Size 6–12 months with ribbed cuff

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Compass Mittens for Small Mariners (p. 194) in two sizes

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Left: Mitten with Double Irish Chain pattern (p. 180) made from Labrador Diamonds Mittens directions (p. 157). A narrow strip of Newfoundland Palm Stitch is visible on left edge of mitten. Right: Newfoundland palm stitch (p. 181) on a small mitten

Left to right: Laura Ridgewell’s Wrister (p. 70) and Phyllis Wharton’s Wrister (p. 72)