Chipman’s Check Wristers

Chipman’s Check is a bit of feminine deception. At first glance it appears to be a check—little bands of dark and light interwoven diagonally—and maybe tricky to knit.

Look more closely. It’s two rows of three light/three dark alternated with two rows of one light/one dark (otherwise known as Salt and Pepper). No little squares on the diagonal. In fact, no diagonals at all.

Chipman’s Check was sent to Janetta Dexter by an acquaintance in New Brunswick, where Chipman has long been a common family name. The roots of this pattern seem to be British, and even today similar checks are knitted into mittens and gloves in England (McGregor, 1983) and Scotland, but to our knowledge, they lack the clever trompe l’oeil of this pattern.

Janetta provided a mitten pattern in Chipman’s Check in Flying Geese & Partridge Feet. Here is a wrister instead. It is a fun pattern to knit, mainly because it looks like something it isn’t.

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Chipman’s Check Wristers with 2-color Maine cast-on on cuffs

Chipman’s Check Wristers

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Yarn Any DK or medium weight wool yarn will do, if it knits to the correct tension. We used McAusland’s 2-ply Medium for these pairs in Child’s 4–6 and Woman’s Large, but also recommend Rauma Hifa or Rauma 3-ply Strikkegarn, or Halcyon Yarns Victorian.

The cuffs—the emphasis of these wristers—are a half-inch longer than the usual ⅓ hand length and so absorb a larger percentage of the yarn. To make one pair you will need:

MC (with solid color cuff)

(oz) 2
(g) 42 50 58 64.5 64.5 71.5 71.5 78.5

CC

(oz) ½ ¾
(g) 14 19 21.5 25 25 25 25 25

Equipment 1 set Size 3 (3.25mm, Can. Size 11) double-pointed needles, or size you need to knit in pattern at correct tension • 1 set Size 1 (2.25mm, Can. Size 13) double-pointed needles for ribbed cuff • 6" (15cm) contrasting waste yarn • Blunt-tipped yarn needle

Tension 7½ sts = 1" (2.5cm)

ABBREVIATIONS beg: beginning • CC: contrast color • dec(s): decrease(s) • inc(s): increase(s) • k: knit • k2tog: knit 2 together • MI: make I stitch • MIL: make I stitch left • MIR: make I stitch right • MC: main color • p: purl • rep: repeat • rnd(s): round(s) • SSK2tog: slip, slip, knit 2 sts together • st(s): stitch(es) • twisted MI: twisted make I cast-on

Measurements—inches and centimeters

Child Sizes Adult Sizes
4–6 6–8 WS WM WL MM XL
Hand length 7 7
14 16.5 16.5 17.75 19 17.75 19 21.5
Hand circumference, incl. tip of thumb 7 8 9 9 10
17.75 20.25 19 22.75 22.75 24 24 25.5
Length of wrister hand 4 4 5
8.25 9.5 9.5 10.25 10.75 10.25 10.75 12.75
Wrister width 4 5
9 10.25 9.5 11.5 11.5 12 12 12.75

Pattern

Chipman’s Check is a 6-st rep and wraps seamlessly around the mitten. Incs are worked in the rnds with 1 MC, 1 CC by adding 6 sts close together in 2 rnds to insert an entire 6-st element at once without an obvious break in the pattern.

I was confused when 2 sts of the same color came together at the end/beg of Lines 1 and 2 of the chart. This never happens in real Salt and Pepper, which is worked on an uneven number of stitches. Chipman’s Check must have an even number of stitches because the overall pattern is a 6-st rep. Don’t try to make Salt and Pepper work there, or your checked pattern won’t come out even.

Because the pattern wraps around the hand, both wristers are the same and gain right- and left-handedness in use.

Other 6-st patterns can be substituted on these wristers, but use the thumb gore incs for that pattern.

Chipman’s Check 6 5 4 3 2 1 7 5 3 1 Key MC–main color CC–contrast color • place marker k both colors into 1 st Chipman’s Check Thumb Increase

Off the Cuff

The cuff is worked in MC and k2, p1 ribbing, with a narrow edging of CC. This edging is the sort of touch that identifies the work of individual knitters, who often tag their work with distinctive striping. One knitter I interviewed briefly was carrying on her grandmother’s trademark of knitting a half-inch (1cm) of the mitten’s color pattern in the middle of the cuff.

Here’s how to make this simple edging. Instead of measuring a long tail of the main color for the cast-on, use a slipknot to tie both colors around one needle, about 6" (15cm) from the end of both yarns. Make the slipknot so that it can be released from the 6" (15cm) end. Cast on using the Maine method (p. 13), but hold CC in the left hand and MC in the right hand. At the end of the rnd, break CC, leaving a 6" (15cm) tail and release the knot.

Later, either work all 3 ends into the back of the fabric or use them to crochet a little button loop on one wrister and attach a toggle on the other. OR, sew the edge together at the joint between rnds and braid the tails together so the mittens can be tied in a pair. Scandinavian and Middle Eastern mittens often have such ties.

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This is how the 2-color Maine east-on will look.

Making the cuff With MC, 3 smaller needles, and using the Maine method (p. 13), cast on tightly making edging as described in “Off the Cuff” above. Distribute sts among needles: Needle 1: Needle 2: Needle 3: Every needle will begin with a k st and end with a p st. Join into a triangle, being careful not to twist sts around the needles. K2, p1 to end of rnd. Work even until ribbing measures (inches) (cm) Next rnd: Change to larger needles and stockinette and work 1 rnd MC, while increasing 2 sts every needle. Inc by M1 (p. 20) between k sts of ribbing. K to 6 sts before end of rnd. Join CC (p. 18) and finish rnd in MC. Total: On Needle 1 you will have Starting the pattern and thumb gore Note: Carry MC ahead throughout (p. 16). Check after the first rnd that the rep comes out even. A mistake here can throw everything else off and take the fun out of the project. Start chart at lower right. Work Lines 1 through 4 of chart without increasing. Overview of inc. On this mitten, you inc an entire 6-st pattern rep at a time so that the pattern seems to remain undisturbed. Incs are all worked by knitting both colors into 1 st (p. 21). When knitting these sts, keep the colors in the correct sequence for the pattern. Incs are worked in the thumb gore area in 2 rnds, on Lines 5 and 6 or Lines 1 and 2 of the chart and are centered on the points of one “diamond.” Child Adult 4–6 6–8 WS WM WL MM ML MXL 42 sts 48 sts 54 sts 60 sts 60 sts 66 sts 66 sts 72 sts 12 sts 12 sts 15 sts 18 sts 18 sts 18 sts 21 sts 18 sts 18 sts 18 sts 21 sts 21 sts 24 sts 24 sts 24 sts 12 sts 18 sts 21 sts 21 sts 21 sts 24 sts 24 sts 27 sts 1½ 2 2¼ 2½ 3 2½ 3 3½ 3.75 5 5.75 6.5 7.5 6.5 7.5 9 48 sts 54 sts 60 sts 66 sts 66 sts 72 sts 72 sts 78 sts 14 sts 14 sts 17 sts 20 sts 20 sts 20 sts 20 sts 23 sts
If you work incs consistently on Lines 1 and 2, there will be a line of CC chevrons up the center of the thumb with single MC sts separating them Child Adult vertically. If you work them consistently on Lines 5 and 6, there will be a line of MC chevrons up the center of the thumb with single CC sts separating them vertically. I opted to alternate between 5 and 6 and 1 and 2, which gave me a pair of chevrons in each color, but nothing strong enough to detract from the checked pattern. Inc R nd 1 (Line 1 or 5 of chart): Start thumb gore on Needle 1, St 4 of chart: K both colors into this st (always in pattern order). Lay waste yarn between inc and next st, k1 st even, then k both colors into next st, k to end of rnd in pattern. You have added 2 sts in this rnd. Inc Rnd 2 (Line 2 or 6 of chart): Work up to 2 sts before waste yarn marker. K both colors into next 2 sts, k 1, k both colors into next 2 sts. Work in pattern to end of rnd. You have added 4 sts in this rnd, making a total of 6 sts inc in 2 rnds. Total on Needle 1 Continue to work pattern and incs a total of Total on Needle 1 Work even until wrister above cuff measures (inches) (cm) Taking off the thumb gore stitches For the best-looking finished wrister, take off the thumb sts on chart Lines 2, 4, 6, or 8, so that when you pick up sts for the thumb later, the pattern on the thumb will match that on the hand perfectly. Work to one of those lines now, then take off the thumb sts. K2 sts in pattern, place the next on waste yarn. The sts should be centered on the un-increased st after the marker. Remove marker. Using twisted M 1 (p. 23), cast on 5 sts over gap. Child Adult 4–6 6–8 WS WM WL MM ML MXL 20 sts 20 sts 23 sts 26 sts 26 sts 26 sts 26 sts 29 sts 1X 1X 2X 2X 2X 3X 3X 3X 20 sts 20 sts 29 sts 32 sts 32 sts 38 sts 38 sts 41 sts 2 2⅜ 2⅜ 2½ 2⅝ 2½ 2⅝ 3 5 6 6 6.5 6.75 6.5 6.75 7.5 11 sts 11 sts 17 sts 17 sts 17 sts 23 sts 23 sts 23 sts
Child Adult 4–6 6–8 WS WM WL MM ML MXL Work even in pattern on 48 sts 54 sts 60 sts 66 sts 66 sts 72 sts 72 sts 78 sts until pattern above cuff measures (inches) 2¾ 3¼ 3¼ 3½ 3¾ 3½ 3¾ 4¼ (cm) 7 8.25 8.25 9 9.5 9 9.5 10.75 (This is half the length of the hand, about where the fingers begin.) End with Lines 1 and 2 (or 5 and 6) of the chart to close the checked pattern. Finishing the top edge Work 1 rnd in MC. Change to smaller needles and work 4 rnds in k2, p1 ribbing. To avoid a flaccid top edge that turns over easily, bind off this way: SSK2tog (p. 24), * p1, pass first st over second st, SSK2tog, pass first st over second st; rep from * to end of rnd. For a slightly looser edge, SSK2tog only every 2nd pair of k sts. Break yarn, leaving a 6” (15cm) tail, and pull tail through the last st. Working the thumb Join both yarns by sewing (p. 20) into back of fabric starting at the right side of thumb hole. Pick up from waste yarn 11 sts 11 sts 17 sts 17 sts 17 sts 23 sts 23 sts 23 sts Pick up 5 sts from east-on sts at top of thumb hole. Pick up and twist onto needle in each corner of thumb hole 1 st 2, 3 sts 1 st 1 st 1 st 1 st 1 st 1 st Total sts: 18 21** 24 24 24 30 30 30 ** Alternatively, pick up the same number of sts, but work 6 rnds of k2, p1 ribbing without working pattern at all. For Child’s 6–8, only this thumb treatment will work.
Work around in pattern, matching pattern on thumb gore. Complete 1 band of pattern, then work 1 rnd MC. Change to smaller needles and k 3 to 4 rnds k2, p1 ribbing. Bind off as on hand. Finishing the wrister Turn wrister inside out and darn all ends into the back of the fabric. Repair possible holes at corners of the thumb hole with nearby tails. Trim ends closely. Make another identical wrister. This wrister can be worn on either hand. Child 2–4 6–8 WS WM Adult WL MM ML MXL
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Chipman’s Check Mittens. To make these, use the wristers pattern, but continue up the hand following hand length (only) measurements for Sawtooth Mittens on p. 100. Decreases will be in Lines 1 and 2 of the chart—four in Line 1, two in Line 2, directly above the first decrease.