Compass Mittens for Small Mariners

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Baby Compass Mittens in two sizes

This pattern has many names. I first learned of it from Mrs. Viette Cruikshank in Liscomb, Guysborough County (Nova Scotia). Mattie Owl, an Indian woman, called one evening many years ago at the home of Mrs. Cruikshank’s grandmother. Mattie Owl was wearing a ragged pair of double-knit mittens, which had been patched with scraps from other handknits, and the Liscomb woman’s eye was caught by the double-knit pattern on one of the patches—this pattern.

She gave Mattie Owl a pair of new double-knit mittens then and there in trade for the ragged pair, and when Mattie Owl left, Mrs. Cruikshank must have promptly sat down and copied the pattern in new yarn, because her family has knit mittens in that pattern ever since, calling it Mattie Owl’s Patch.

The pattern is not limited to the Cruikshank family, however, or even to Nova Scotia Indians. Other families in the Sherbrooke area knit it and call it Naughts and Crosses (the British name for tic-tac-toe). I learned that folkcraft writer Joleen Gorden found it knitted in the Barrington, Nova Scotia, area, where it is called Compass Work, and a woman in New Brunswick sent it to me under the name Spider’s Web.

It seems to be an 8-stitch variant of Fox and Geese, a 6-stitch rep.

—Janetta Dexter

My distant cousin Bertha York, of Harpswell, Maine, has childhood memories of her Aunt Esther Wilson knitting this pattern, which they called Compass Mittens or Compass Work. In spite of the local color of the Mattie Owl story, I still prefer the name “Compass Mittens,” perhaps because that name comes from my own people, the Harpswell Islanders of 100 years ago. And I can always see compass needles pointing north in the design.

I knit this baby mitten in a navy blue and natural cream for people like myself, who want their babies to carry on the family’s nautical tradition. Like many quilt designs, it offers young minds food for thought, directions to look to. —Robin Hansen

Compass Mittens for Small Mariners

Yarn MC (light color) 1 oz (28.5g) sport weight yarn • CC (dark color) 1 oz (28.5g) sport weight yarn, preferably wool •

It’s fine to use Superwash™ for babies, although it’s not as warm when wet. Brunswick Yarns Pomfret, used for mitten in the photo, no longer exists, but we have had good luck with Jaggerspun 2/8, Halcyon Yarn Victorian, and Raumagarn Hifa. Any sport weight yarn that knits to correct tension will work. Baby yarn or fingering is usually too fine.

Equipment 1 set Size 2 (2.75mm, Can. Size 12) double-pointed needles, or size you need to knit in pattern at correct tension • 1 set Size 1 (2.25mm, Can. Size 13) double-pointed needles for ribbing

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Tension 9 sts and 7 rnds = 1 ” (2.5cm) in pattern

ABBREVIATIONS beg: beginning • CC: contrast color • dec(s) : decrease(s) • inc(s): increase(s) • k: knit • k2tog: knit 2 together • MI: make 1 stitch • MIL: make 1 stitch left • MIR: make 1 stitch right • MC: main color • p: purl • rep: repeat • rnd(s): round(s) • SSK2tog: slip, slip, knit 2 sts together • st(s): stitch(es) • twisted MI: twisted make 1 cast-on

Measurements—inches and centimeters

6–12 mos 2 years 4 years
Hand length 3 4⅛
7.5 9 10.5
Hand circumference, incl. tip of thumb 5 6
11.5 12.75 15.25
Mitten hand length 3⅝
8.25 9.25 10.75
Mitten thumb (⅓ hand)
3.25 3.25 3.75
Mitten width 2¾–3
5.75 6.5 7–7.5

Pattern

Compass is a multiple of 8 rnds and 8 sts and is not easily knitted flat. Carry the darker color ahead (p. 16) at all times and weave in CC (p. 18) on Chart Lines 1 and 7.

In small children’s sizes, the large 8-st pattern rep wraps perfectly around the hand only in the three sizes given here.

Chart 1: Baby Compass Key MC–main color CC–contrast color direction of increase make 1 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 7 5 3 1
Chart 2: Thumb Increase 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 7 5 3 1 Inc rnd 7 5 3 1 Decrease 1 8 7 6 5 4 3 1 3 1 8 Decrease 2 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 7 5 3 1 3-St Inside Thumb 7 5 3 1 3 2 1 5-St Inside Thumb 5 4 3 2 1 7 5 3 1

Off the Cuff

I have used a boldly striped cuff to offset the fine lines of the pattern. If you want other stripes, look at the adult Checkerboard Mittens or Maplewood Mittens patterns for ideas. Stripes on the cuff tend to balance the amounts of the two yarns used, in some cases making it possible to get two pairs of mittens from two contrasting skeins of yarn (not a problem in these sizes, of course).

Don’t break the yarn at the end of its stripe. Carry it up to its next appearance.

This mitten has a longer than usual cuff—good to keep little wrists dry and warm.

Making the cuff With MC, smaller needles, and using the Maine method (p. 13), cast on Distribute sts equally on 3 needles. Join into a triangle, being careful not to twist sts around the needles. Work k2, p1 ribbing in MC for 10 rnds, CC for 4 rnds, MC for 2 rnds, CC for 4 rnds, and MC for 7 rnds. Twist the two yarns together at the beg of 3rd or 4th rnd of MC. Change to larger needles and stockinette. K1 rnd CC, and inc by M1 (p. 20) Total (a multiple of 8): Starting the pattern and thumb gore Note: Carry MC ahead throughout (p. 16). Check after the first rnd that the rep comes out even. A mistake here can throw everything else off and take the fun out of the project. Start Chart 1 at lower right on and work chart through Line 8. Start thumb gore in next Rnd 1 of pattern. You will inc 8 sts all at once above 7 sts in established pattern, as shown in Chart 2. This mitten can really be worn on either hand, if you wish to knit 2 mittens the same, but directions follow for making individual left and right mittens. Right mitten: The first 9 sts of Needle 1 form the base of the thumb gore. Left mitten: K, then slip, 1st st from Needle 1 onto Needle 3. The last 9 sts of the rnd (on Needle 3) form the base of the thumb gore. Both mittens: Inc at thumb gore: K1 CC into St 1; k both colors (p. 21) into St 2—first CC then MC; M1 MC; k1 MC into St 3; M1 MC; k both colors into St 4—first MC then CC; k1 CC into St 5; k both colors into St 6—first CC then MC; M1 MC; k1 MC into St 7; M1 MC; k both colors into St 8—first MC then CC. You will have increased 8 sts in pattern in the space of 7 sts. Truly amazing. This is the only thumb inc in this mitten. Total: Work even until thumb gore measures (inches) (cm) Ideally for appearance, complete Rnd 8 or Rnd 3. If you are within 2 rnds of either of these rnds, make it so. 6–12 mos 39 sts 1 st 40 sts Line 4 48 sts 1 2.5 2 yrs 48 sts — 48 sts Line 1 56 sts 1¼ 3.25 4 years 54 sts 2 sts 56 sts Line 1 64 sts 1½ 3.75
Taking off the thumb gore stitches Right mitten: K2, put next 13 sts on waste yarn. Left mitten: Work in pattern to last 15 sts on Needle 3. K2, put next 13 sts on waste yarn. Both mittens: Using twisted M1 (p. 23), cast on 5 sts in pattern over the gap. Complete rnd in pattern. Work even in pattern until hand above cuff measures End with Line 8 or Line 3 of chart completed. Closing the mitten tip Note: Decs are within each block of pattern. Consult Decrease Charts 1 and 2 (p. 196) for a visual representation of this. Total: (inches) (cm) Rnd 1, dec: *K2, SSK2tog (p. 24), k1, k2tog (p. 24), k1; rep from *, maintaining pattern (which will grow narrower, but should not lose its vertical lines). Rnd 2: Work even and maintain pattern on Rnd 3 (Line 3 or 6 on dec charts), dec: *K1, SSK2tog, k1, k2tog; rep from *. Rnd 4 (Line 4 or 7 on dec charts): Work even and maintain pattern on Rnd 5 (Line 5 or 8 on dec charts), dec: *SSK2tog, k2tog; rep from *. Remaining on 3 needles: Check measurements against finished measurements at beg of directions. If you are satisfied, break yarn leaving a 6 ” (15cm) tail. With a yarn needle, thread one end through the remaining sts and draw up firmly. Draw other end to inside of mitten. Thread first end through drawn-up sts again, darn a few sts to secure and draw it to inside of mitten. Working the thumb Join both yarns by sewing (p. 20) into back of fabric, starting at the right side of thumb hole. Needles 1 and 2: Pick up 13 sts from waste yarn. Needle 3: Pick up 7 sts at top of thumb hole. Pick up and twist 1 st onto needle in each corner of thumb hole. Total: 22 sts. 6–12 mos 2 yrs 40 sts 48 sts 2¾ 3¼ 7 8.25 30 sts 36 sts 20 sts 24 sts 10 sts 12 sts 4 years 56 sts. 3¾ 9.5 42 sts 28 sts 14 sts
Note: Using only Compass pattern would make the thumb too wide or too narrow. Traditional knitters usually figure a way out of these problems skillfully and artistically, but I offer you a simpler solution: Work a smaller pattern on the inside of the thumb, as shown on the two charts on p. 196. Starting at right corner of thumb hole, work Needles 1 and 2, matching pattern to that on thumb gore. In the two smaller sizes, dec the circumference by 2 sts on Needle 3: SSK2tog CC, k1 MC, k1 CC, k2tog MC, k1 CC. Work the charted 3-st Inside Thumb pattern on Needle 3 and Compass pattern on Needles 1 and 2. Total: 20 sts. In the largest size: Work the charted 5-st Inside Thumb pattern on Needle 3 and Compass pattern on Needles 1 and 2. Total: 22 sts. All sizes: Work even in pattern until thumb and thumb gore together measure Closing the tip of the thumb Dec Rnd 1: K2tog, k1, around, matching pattern as closely as possible. (inches) (cm) Total: Dec Rnd 2: K2tog on all needles. Total remaining: Break yarn, leaving a 6 ” (15cm) tail. With a yarn needle, thread one end through the remaining sts and draw up firmly. Draw other end to inside of thumb. Thread first end through drawn-up sts again, darn a few sts to secure it, and draw to inside of thumb. Finishing the mitten Turn mitten inside out and darn all ends into the back of the fabric. Repair any holes at corners of the thumb hole with nearby tails. Trim ends closely. Make another mitten for the opposite hand. 6–12 mos 2 yrs 4 years 2¼ 2⅜ 2½ 5.75 6 6.5 13 sts 13 sts 15 sts 7 sts 7 sts 9 sts