Kastanosoupa

MODERN GREEK CHRISTMAS CHESTNUT SOUP

serves 8

Chestnut trees grow all over Greece. They are one of the traditional ingredients in the rice stuffing for the Christmas or New Year’s turkey. They stud wine-braised pork. Chestnut spoon sweets, chestnut puree, and chestnut flour are all beloved artisanal foods in many parts of the country.

58 vacuum-packed or fresh chestnuts

4 tablespoons (½ stick / 55 g) unsalted butter

2 tablespoons extra-virgin Greek olive oil, plus more for serving

1 large fennel bulb, finely chopped

3 leeks, white parts only, washed well and finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 large potato, peeled and diced

1 cup (240 ml) ouzo

3 quarts (3 L) chicken broth or vegetable broth

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

½ cup (120 ml) light cream

½ cup (120 ml) Greek yogurt, for serving

Fresh chives or fennel fronds, for garnish

Crushed pink peppercorns

If using vacuum-packed chestnuts, follow the package directions for cooking them in the bag in boiling water, then transfer to a bowl and set aside. If using raw chestnuts, place them in a large pot and add cold water to cover. Bring the water to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium and simmer for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Working in batches and keeping the rest of the chestnuts in the water so their skins stay soft enough to score open, remove a few of the chestnuts and use a sharp paring knife to peel them. Set aside in a bowl until ready to use.

In a large soup pot, heat 2 tablespoons of the butter and the olive oil together over medium heat. Add the fennel, leeks, and garlic and cook, stirring, until soft and glistening, about 10 minutes. Add the potato and 50 of the peeled chestnuts (reserve 8) and stir to coat with the oil.

Carefully pour in the ouzo. As soon as the alcohol cooks off, add the broth. Bring the soup to a simmer, cover, and cook for about 40 minutes. Puree the soup directly in the pot with an immersion blender, or carefully transfer the soup in batches to the bowl of a food processor and puree until smooth, then return the pureed soup to the pot. (Although it isn’t necessary, you can strain the pureed soup through a fine-mesh sieve or chinois for a silkier texture and more elegant result.) Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and black pepper.

Bring the soup back to a simmer, add the cream, and stir. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Right before serving, stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons butter.

Ladle into individual bowls and top each with a dollop of Greek yogurt and a chive or fennel frond. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and sprinkle with crushed pink peppercorns. Garnish each bowl with a chestnut and serve.