serves 6
In Greece, hearty stews that combined meat and vegetables or beans were a way to stretch a meal, providing a little animal protein to every member of the family, for example, while filling bellies on more economical raw ingredients such as chickpeas, an ancient legume in the eastern Mediterranean. This is a recipe originally from the islands of the eastern Aegean. Note that if you’re using dried chickpeas, they need to soak overnight, so plan ahead, or used canned chickpeas.
1½ cups (275 g) dried chickpeas, picked over for debris and rinsed, or 4½ cups (747 g) canned chickpeas
6 fresh or dried bay leaves (optional)
2 large onions: 1 left whole, 1 finely chopped (optional)
¾ cup (180 ml) extra-virgin Greek olive oil
6 lamb shanks, about 1 pound (450 g) each
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 carrot, halved
2 celery stalks, very finely chopped
1½ cups (360 ml) white wine or brandy
6 allspice berries
1 cinnamon stick
1 (3-inch / 7.5 cm) whole dried chile (optional)
4 fresh thyme sprigs
2½ cups (415 g) chopped canned plum tomatoes
Water or chicken broth
½ cup (25 g) finely chopped fresh parsley
If using dried chickpeas, put them in a large bowl, add cold water to cover, and set aside at room temperature to soak overnight. Drain the chickpeas and place them in a large pot. Add water to cover by 3 inches (7.5 cm), 2 bay leaves, and the whole onion. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for about 1½ hours, or until the chickpeas are about two-thirds cooked. Skip this step if using canned chickpeas.
While the chickpeas cook, preheat the oven to 375ºF (190ºC).
In a large skillet or wide shallow pot, heat 6 tablespoons (90 ml) of the olive oil. Working in batches, sear the lamb shanks, turning them with kitchen tongs to brown well on all sides. Season generously with salt and pepper. Remove with kitchen tongs and transfer to a large ovenproof clay or enamel casserole dish with a lid. Repeat to brown the remaining shanks.
In the same pan, heat a couple of tablespoons of the olive oil (if needed—there may be sufficient fat in the pan) over medium heat. Add the chopped onion, carrot, and celery. Carefully pour in the wine or brandy and stir to deglaze the pan. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are softened, about 15 minutes.
When the chickpeas are done, drain them, discarding the bay leaves and onion. Whether using cooked or canned, place the chickpeas in the casserole, scattering them all around the shanks, and stir in the vegetables. Add the allspice, cinnamon stick, chile, thyme, tomatoes, and enough water or broth to barely cover the meat and chickpeas.
Cover and bake for about 2 hours, or until the meat is falling off the shanks and the chickpeas are tender. Check the liquid content during cooking; if there is not enough, add some more water or broth; if there is too much, remove the lid or covering about halfway through braising to allow it to evaporate. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Remove from the oven, pour in the remaining olive oil, and stir it gently into the chickpeas. Let rest for 30 minutes. Serve sprinkled with the chopped parsley.