serves 6
So many people associate Greek Easter with the outdoor feasts of spit-roasted lamb or goat that are traditional on the mainland that island recipes are sometimes overlooked. Easter on most Aegean islands is a feast in which stuffed roasted lamb takes center stage. The recipes are a wonderful mirror of what is on hand locally from island to island, and so tell a story of regionality that is still timely.
I’ve adapted the recipe to what an American cook is more likely to make: a stuffed boneless shoulder rather than a whole stuffed baby lamb or goat.
1 boneless lamb shoulder, about 3 pounds (1.4 kg)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 garlic cloves, finely chopped
⅔ cup (160 ml) extra-virgin Greek olive oil, plus more as needed
1 red or yellow onion, finely chopped
6 scallions, finely chopped
1 cup (185 g) long-grain rice, such as Greek Carolina
3 cups dry white wine
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
½ cup (25 g) snipped fresh dill
1 cup (50 g) chopped fresh mint leaves
1 cup (150 g) crumbled Greek feta
¼ cup (35 g) pine nuts, toasted
⅓ cup (50 g) raisins (optional)
1 large egg
3 pounds (1.4 kg) new potatoes, preferably organic, unpeeled
6 fresh rosemary sprigs
6 fresh oregano sprigs
Open the lamb up on a clean work surface and season generously on both sides with salt and pepper. Using a sharp paring knife, make small slits all over the surface of the lamb. Use one-quarter of the garlic (about 3 tablespoons, or 2 chopped cloves) to stuff the slits. Cover and refrigerate.
Preheat the oven to 375ºF (190ºC).
In a large deep skillet or wide pot, heat ⅓ cup (80 ml) of the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and scallions and cook, stirring occasionally, until wilted and translucent, about 8 minutes. Add the rice and toss to coat with the oil. Add one-third of the remaining garlic and stir. Pour in 1 cup (240 ml) water and 1 cup (240 ml) of the wine and cook until the liquids have been absorbed and the rice is al dente, about 12 minutes. The filling should be fairly dry. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let the mixture cool.
Add the lemon zest, fennel seeds, dill, mint, feta, pine nuts, raisins (if using), and half the remaining garlic to the rice and stir well to combine. Taste and adjust the seasoning with additional salt and pepper. Stir in the egg and 3 tablespoons of the olive oil.
Remove the lamb from the fridge and return it to your work surface. Spread the filling over the surface of the meat, then roll up the lamb, securing the roll at a few points with butcher’s twine or ovenproof elastic bands.
Place the lamb on a rack set inside a roasting pan. Place the potatoes around the lamb. Season generously with salt, pepper, and the remaining garlic. Add the rosemary and oregano sprigs to the roasting pan, and fill the pan with enough water to come about halfway up the potatoes. Roast, uncovered, for 20 minutes.
Pour the remaining 2 cups (480 ml) wine over the lamb and potatoes, cover with parchment paper, then aluminum foil, and slide back into the oven. Reduce the oven temperature to 375ºF (190ºC) and roast for 1 hour 10 minutes to 1 hour 20 minutes for medium, or until a meat thermometer inserted into the lamb registers 130ºF (55ºC).
Remove from the oven, let rest for 20 minutes, then slice and serve with the potatoes.
NOTE: If there is leftover rice filling, put it in an ovenproof casserole with enough water to cover by 1 inch (2.5 cm), cover with a lid, and bake it simultaneously with the lamb, for 35 to 40 minutes, until set and tender.