serves 4
I love to bake in paper. I love the whole idea of serving forth a surprise, like a gift everyone at the table gets to open. Exohiko means “of the countryside,” and it’s one of the most popular ways to cook meat throughout Greece.
2 pounds (about 1 kg) boneless shoulder of pork, cut into 2-inch (5 cm) medallions
2 tablespoons Greek or Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons strained fresh lemon juice
¼ cup (60 ml) white wine
¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin Greek olive oil
10 garlic cloves
10 dried sage leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Hot paprika (optional)
Grated zest of 1 lemon, preferably organic
8 fresh rosemary sprigs, each 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) long
1 leek, trimmed, washed well, and cut into thin rings
1 celery stalk, coarsely chopped or diced
12 (1-inch / 2.5 cm) cubes Kefalotyri or Kefalograviera cheese
Rinse the pork and pat dry.
In a medium metal bowl, whisk together the mustard, lemon juice, wine, and olive oil. Toss the pork in this mixture. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour.
Preheat the oven to 350ºF (175ºC). Lightly oil a baking sheet. Cut four pieces of parchment paper large enough to hold the pork pieces.
In a mortar, grind together the garlic and sage leaves using the pestle.
Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pork to a bowl and pat dry. Season generously with salt and pepper, add the garlic-sage mixture, and toss. Place an equal portion of the pork on each piece of parchment. Sprinkle the contents of each packet judiciously with hot paprika, if desired. Sprinkle evenly with the lemon zest. Place 2 rosemary sprigs in each packet over the meat. Divide the leek and celery evenly over the pork in each packet. Add equal amounts of the cheese cubes to each. Drizzle in a little of the marinade.
Fold the long sides of the parchment over the pork and bring the two ends together, rolling them at the edges to close the parcel. Secure with kitchen string and place on the prepared baking sheet. Sprinkle a little water over the parcels. Bake the parcels for 1¾ hours, or until the pork is tender. During cooking, sprinkle more water in the baking sheet and over the parcels to keep the meat moist.
Remove from the oven and serve. Open the parcels carefully, because the steam that escapes is very hot.