serves 6
This recipe is an homage to the island of Lesvos, home to most renowned sardines in Greece, culled from the rich Bay of Kalloni and from the other bays and coves that lace the island’s coast. Lesvos is also home to some of the best ouzo makers in Greece. The refreshing anise flavor of Greece’s national drink balances beautifully with the oily, rich flavor and texture of sardines.
½ cup (120 ml) extra-virgin Greek olive oil, plus more for the baking dish
2 pounds (900 g) fresh sardines
2 ripe but firm tomatoes, halved lengthwise, cored, and cut into slices about ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick
2 medium red onions, halved and cut into slices about ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick
2 lemons, halved lengthwise and cut into slices a little less than about ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick
3 tablespoons capers in brine, rinsed and drained
Juice of 1 lemon, strained
¼ cup (60 ml) ouzo
2 teaspoons Greek or Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano leaves, or 2 teaspoons dried Greek oregano
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 350ºF (175ºC). Lightly oil a rectangular glass or ceramic baking dish.
Clean the sardines: Using a sharp paring knife, cut off their heads from the spine toward the belly and pull down gently to remove the attached viscera. Run under cold water and scoop out any remaining viscera with a small spoon or your fingers. (You can wear gloves while doing this, as sardines have a strong, lingering fish smell thanks to all the healthy oils they contain.) Rinse the sardines well in a colander.
Place the sardines in the prepared baking dish one by one in neat rows, alternating the placement of each so that the first one sits plump end to tail, the second one snuggled next to it tail to plump end, etc., thus enabling the most efficient use of the space in the pan.
Take the tomato, onion, and lemon slices and snuggle them between the fish, alternating between each as much as possible. Sprinkle the capers over the fish evenly.
In a small bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, ouzo, mustard, oregano, and olive oil. Pour the mixture evenly over the contents of the baking dish. Season with salt and pepper. Cover with parchment or waxed paper, then aluminum foil, and bake for 20 minutes. Remove the paper and foil and bake for 7 to 10 minutes more, until lightly browned on top. Remove from the oven and serve immediately.