serves 4
Butterflied, grilled sardines topped with crunchy raw red onions are one of the great meze dishes of Thessaloniki, Greece’s second largest city and a place renowned for its complex, rich, multifaceted food history. The sardines available in Greek waters are small. Look for large Spanish sardines, which are readily available in the United States.
⅓ cup (80 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for the grill basket
⅓ cup (80 ml) strained fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon dried Greek oregano
Salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 pound (450 g) large fresh sardines, gutted and butterflied
2 large red onions, sliced into paper-thin rings
1 teaspoon sweet paprika or a combination of sweet and hot paprika
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
2 or 3 lemons, cut into 4 wedges each, for garnish
Whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, oregano, and salt and pepper to taste in a large bowl. Toss the fish in the marinade, cover, and let stand at room temperature for about 20 minutes.
Heat a grill to medium. Set the grill rack about 4 inches (10 cm) from the heat source. Lightly oil a flat, long-handled grill basket that has a top and bottom for holding whole fish in place securely.
Place one-third of the butterflied fish, one next to the other, in a neat row inside the prepared grill basket. Close the top to secure them in the basket and set the basket on the grill over medium-high heat. Grill for 6 to 8 minutes, flipping the basket once, until the sardines are tender. Brush with the marinade while the fish grills. Transfer from the grill basket to a tray, oil the basket again, and repeat to grill the second and third batches of fish.
To serve the fish, spread half the onions over a serving platter and sprinkle half the paprika over them. Place the sardines on top and cover with the remaining onions. Sprinkle with the remaining paprika and the parsley. Serve with the lemon wedges on the side.