makes about 2 cups (480 ml)
Mezen, one of the most cutting-edge meze restaurants in Greece as of this writing, is located in Volos, a small port city in central Greece renowned for its tsipouradika (casual restaurants that served tsipouro, aka Greek firewater or grappa) and the variety of mezedes served at them.
Salty tarama—fish roe—is the perfect meze with which to wash down shot glass after shot glass of strong, grapy Greek tsipouro. The roe is typically culled from cod or carp and sometimes from grey mullet, and is cured (in other words, salted and preserved). There are two main varieties: white roe (usually cod), and cheaper pink or red roe consisting of a blend of cured roes that have been dyed pink.
Traditionally the dish was pounded in a mortar with a pestle. Many contemporary chefs and home cooks use a combination of olive and sunflower or corn oil to help emulsify the mixture and keep its flavor balanced, without too much of the headiness that would be imparted by using extra-virgin Greek olive oil alone. The final taste is pleasantly fishy and sharp, with a sweet aftertaste. Taramosalata is one of the staple dishes of Greek fasting periods.
2½ ounces (71 g) white or pink tarama (fish roe; about 3 tablespoons)
3 tablespoons finely chopped red onion
Scant ⅓ cup (70 ml) strained fresh lemon juice
1⅓ cups (4½ ounces / 125 g) fresh white bread crumbs (preferably from sourdough bread)
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon (200 ml) sunflower oil
3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (50 ml) extra-virgin Greek olive oil
Homemade Pita Chips or crudités, for serving
Place the tarama, onion, and lemon juice in a blender and blend on high speed to form a loose paste. Add the bread crumbs in four ⅓-cup (40 g) increments, alternating with the sunflower and olive oils and pulsing after each addition. Continue until the taramosalata is a dense but smooth paste. Add enough water, a tablespoon at a time, to loosen the mixture to a creamy, spreadable consistency, as light and fluffy as mayonnaise. Serve as a dip, with pita chips or crudités.