makes 6 to 8 meze servings
Santorini is one of the most astoundingly beautiful—and deeply troubled—places in the world. When I first visited the island almost thirty years ago, it was on the cusp of becoming one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations. As of this writing, the island is inundated with more than two million tourists a year, about a tenth of the total number of people who visit Greece yearly. Land prices on this tiny island, only 76 square miles, are exorbitant, making it more and more difficult for farmers and vintners to survive.
I visited one of the last working family farms, run by Margarita Alefrangki and her family, who also operate one of the island’s best fish tavernas, Y Spilia tou Nikola. They grow Santorini’s famed anydra, or waterless, tomatoes, a small variety that flourishes in chalky volcanic soil and needs almost no water to survive. They are among the most intensely flavored tomatoes in Greece and the main ingredient in one of the island’s signature dishes. This is Margarita’s recipe.
The cod will need to be desalted for 48 hours before it can be used, so be sure to plan ahead.
1 salt cod fillet, about 1½ pounds (680 g)
2 red onions, finely chopped
10 scallions, chopped
Salt
3 pounds (1.4 kg) firm but not juicy small tomatoes, such as grape tomatoes
3 small round or oblong zucchini, quartered, seeded, and finely chopped
1 cup (50 g) chopped fresh basil leaves
3 tablespoons dried mint
Freshly ground black pepper
3 to 6 cups (375 to 750 g) all-purpose flour, as needed
Corn oil, for frying
Two days before preparing the recipe, desalt the cod: Break up the cod into pieces about 2 inches (5 cm) square. Place the cod in a bowl and fill with cold water to cover. Refrigerate for 48 hours, changing the water every few hours. Drain the cod and break the pieces apart into shreds and chop them. Set aside.
Put the onions and scallions in a large bowl. Add a scant 1 teaspoon salt and knead the onion-scallion mixture until soft. Add the tomatoes, zucchini, basil, and mint. Add the cod to the bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Knead the mixture, adding the flour as you go until you’ve added enough that the mixture forms a dense mass that holds its shape on a spoon when scooped up and held upside down.
In a large, deep skillet or wide pot, heat 2 inches (5 cm) of corn oil over medium-high heat until it registers 350ºF (175ºC) on an instant-read or deep-fry thermometer. Scoop up a teaspoon of the cod mixture and, using a second teaspoon, slide it into the hot oil. Repeat to fill but not overcrowd the pan. Fry the fritters for about 2 minutes, then turn them and fry on the other side until nice and golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the fritters to a paper towel–lined plate to drain. Repeat with the remaining cod mixture. Serve hot or at room temperature.
