Tragana Sardelokokala

CRISPY SARDINE BONES

makes 4 meze servings

Sardines are one of the most important, and economical, fish in the Aegean, and are a popular, nutritious source of protein on the weekly table all over Greece. Greek cooks like their sardines in many different ways: fried whole, baked with herbs and olive oil, stuffed and roasted, and filleted and salt-cured. No matter which way they’re prepared, the bones are always left! I fell in love with this recipe for salted, crispy sardine bones when I tried it at Mezen, a cutting-edge meze restaurant on a nondescript side street in the small city of Volos, in central Greece. Odd as the idea might sound, I really think this is a genius recipe. They go down like chips!

2 tablespoons sea salt, plus more to taste

Whole sardine bones from 20 to 30 small fresh sardines (see Note)

Sunflower oil, for frying

1 to 1½ cups (125 to 190 g) all-purpose flour, for dredging

Scant 2 tablespoons smoked paprika

Lemon wedges, for serving

Salt the bones with 2 tablespoons of the sea salt and leave them out at room temperature, covered with paper towels, for 2 hours.

In a deep wide pot or skillet, heat ½ inch (1.5 cm) sunflower oil over medium-high heat until just below the smoke point. In a wide shallow bowl, combine the flour with salt to taste and the smoked paprika. Dredge the sardine bones lightly in the seasoned flour and shake off the excess. Fry the bones in the hot oil for a few minutes, until they turn lightly golden. Remove and drain on paper towels. Serve as is, with lemon wedges for squeezing over the top.

NOTE: It’s important to use small fresh sardines, which are what is prevalent in Greece. You can also make this with anchovies.