Kastana Stifado

WINE-BRAISED CHESTNUTS AND SHALLOTS

serves 4

Chestnuts, one of the oldest foods in the eastern Mediterranean, known to the ancient and modern Greeks alike by the same name, kastano, have always been an important food. They flourish in mountainous areas—and 80 percent of the Greek land mass is mountains. So important a food and ubiquitous a tree is the chestnut that all over Greece, from islands to mainland, there are countless villages actually named for this hearty, nutritious nut.

I like to look at chestnuts from a chef’s perspective and am enamored of the many recipes, from dips to main courses to desserts, of course, which call for it. Candied chestnuts and chestnut spoon sweets (whole chestnuts preserved in sugar syrup) abound in Mount Pelion and other parts of the Greek mainland. But it’s the savory preparations that win my heart most, and this recipe is one of my favorites. It is an old country dish from Arcadia in the Peloponnese. Serve it with Greek or other noodles, or on its own.

¼ cup (60 ml) extra-virgin Greek olive oil

10 small shallots

3 garlic cloves, chopped

1 cup (180 g) coarsely chopped fresh or canned tomatoes

3 cups peeled defrosted frozen or vacuum-packed chestnuts

⅔ cup (160 ml) dry red wine

2 to 3 tablespoons Greek balsamic vinegar

5 or 6 fresh thyme sprigs

1 bay leaf

1 cinnamon stick

4 allspice berries

In a wide, shallow medium pot, heat the olive oil over medium-low heat. Add the whole shallots and cook until lightly caramelized, about 20 minutes. Stir in the garlic. Add the tomatoes. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer for 15 minutes to thicken slightly.

Add the chestnuts, wine, vinegar, thyme, bay leaf, cinnamon, and allspice and cook until the chestnuts are tender and the pot juices are dense and thick. Remove and discard the thyme, bay leaf, cinnamon, and allspice. Serve.

NOTE: This is great on the Thanksgiving table and makes a wonderful alternative if you have any vegan guests. Serve it over mashed sweet potatoes!