Soufiko tis Elenis, sto Tigani

ELENI’S IKARIAN SKILLET SOUFICO

serves 6 to 8

Soufico is one of the “national” dishes of Ikaria, an island (not a nation!) in the northeastern Aegean that also happens to be where my family roots are. It is one of many dishes throughout Greece, and throughout the Mediterranean at large, that calls for the same medley of summer vegetables, anchored by eggplant, the fleshiest and most filling of all of them. This is my friend Eleni’s version. It is one of the simplest and most delicious I’ve ever tried.

2 medium eggplants, about 8 inches (20 cm) long, trimmed

3 medium potatoes, peeled

3 large zucchini, about 8 inches (20 cm) long, trimmed

2 large onions, coarsely chopped

Sea salt

½ cup (120 ml) extra-virgin Greek olive oil, plus more as needed

4 garlic cloves, chopped

3 green bell peppers, cut into 1-inch-wide (2.5 cm) strips

Freshly ground black pepper

4 large fresh tomatoes, peeled

1 cup (240 ml) dry white wine

3 fresh bay leaves

2 tablespoons petimezi (grape molasses; optional)

6 to 8 large fresh basil leaves, coarsely chopped

⅔ cup (35 g) chopped fresh parsley

5 fresh oregano sprigs

3 or 4 fresh thyme sprigs

Cut the eggplants in half crosswise, then cut each half into rectangular pieces, about ¾ inch (2 cm) wide and 2½ inches (6.25 cm) long. Set aside. Cut the potatoes and zucchini into rectangles of the same size.

In a wide shallow pot or deep skillet, cook the onions over low heat, with no oil, sprinkled with a little salt, until they begin to soften. Add the olive oil and cook the onions until translucent, about 8 minutes. Stir in the garlic. Add the eggplant and stir gently. Add the potatoes and stir. Next, add the bell peppers and stir. Finally, gently stir in the zucchini pieces. Season lightly with salt and black pepper.

Working with one at a time, hold a tomato over the pot in one hand and use a sharp paring knife to cut it into small chunks and drop them into the vegetables. Add the wine. When it begins to evaporate, stir in the bay leaves.

Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot, and simmer for about 25 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. Stir in the petimezi, if using. Add the basil, parsley, oregano, and thyme, cover, and cook for 10 minutes more. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and black pepper. Remove the bay leaves and herb sprigs. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.